Thread chaser vs tap

[Squisher]

But an M24x1.5 is straight...

Looking at that pic it sure looked tapered. I was eye balling the hex in relation to the threads.

 

[Squisher]

http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/pipe_plugs_metric.htm

[FONT=Arial, Arial, Helvetica]Pipe plugs are tapered and seal on the threads so no gasket is required[/FONT]

 

[boomerang]

But an M24x1.5 is straight...

I actually found a chart for metric pipe thread (which I thought didn't exist and I'd said so earlier) with that thread designation. I too thought it had to be straight thread and proclaimed so in an earlier post in this thread.

I'll have to find the site in History on the other computer. I'll post it when I find it.

Here we go. I see Squisher has found some good info too. Of course Die Makers must stick together.

http://www.metricmcc.com/catalog/Ch10/10-1007.pdf

FWIW, I think the drainplug threads were damaged from the get go and the plug was run in on the assembly line with an air tool.

I rather enjoyed this thread. It dispelled some things I'd been told and I learned something in the process. I can now tell anyone that asks that there is in fact such a thing as metric pipe thread. I'm eagerly anticipating being asked a question I never will be asked.

 

[Squisher]

Working for a more independent supplier than one of the big three forced me to work with many foreign automakers and they all use the metric system. Being a die maker we don't use much pipe threads, but there were some instances where metric+pipe thread were used.

I learned something too. WTF!!! British pipe thread is not a Japanese pipe thread is not a metric pipe thread. Gee, let's reinvent the wheel too.

 

[countrystyle]

So much bad advice on the internet.....

RiDE (the OP) has a lot of thread left. Threads can be fixed or removed (use less torque in this case...maybe some loctite not the red stuff.

Buying a new plug..thumbs up!

-A skilled person with a thread restorer might be able to fix it (not the OP), but maybe jsut chipping a way at those first few threads is a good idea.

-A thread rethreader (not a cutting tap or chaser!) is better in an unskilled hand

-A chaser can #$%#!! up the threads if it catches wrong but the threads don't look so bad. A chaser is not a rethreader.

-using a cutting tap and going no further than the damaged area is another option.

-The worst option out of them all is sizing up. the OP could really screw things up and would have to have a skill set a bit higher than he has demonstrated...why not try the less dramatic first?

OR because I think it is a motorcyle

***take it to a tool and die place and they will fix it....it is their trade and a lot less hassle for you.***


countryStyle

 

[boomerang]

So much bad advice on the internet.....

RiDE (the OP) has a lot of thread left. Threads can be fixed or removed (use less torque in this case...maybe some loctite not the red stuff.

Buying a new plug..thumbs up!

-A skilled person with a thread restorer might be able to fix it (not the OP), but maybe jsut chipping a way at those first few threads is a good idea.

-A thread rethreader (not a cutting tap or chaser!) is better in an unskilled hand

-A chaser can #$%#!! up the threads if it catches wrong but the threads don't look so bad. A chaser is not a rethreader.

-using a cutting tap and going no further than the damaged area is another option.

-The worst option out of them all is sizing up. the OP could really screw things up and would have to have a skill set a bit higher than he has demonstrated...why not try the less dramatic first?

OR because I think it is a motorcyle

***take it to a tool and die place and they will fix it....it is their trade and a lot less hassle for you.***


countryStyle

You should read the thread before you give advice on threads.

 

[jlee]

So much bad advice on the internet.....

OR because I think it is a motorcyle

***take it to a tool and die place and they will fix it....it is their trade and a lot less hassle for you.***


countryStyle

Thanks for the responses guys. The car is an 03 525i.

I also would not use Loctite on a drain plug. It'll hold just fine.

 

[countrystyle]

lol....I should read the thread before I give advice on threads...So I missed a little detail about the model number phht...well punned I must say.

 

[brblx]

i really don't think there's even anything wrong with the trans casing. my guess is someone cranked the shit out of the plug (because they installed without sealer and didn't realize they weren't relying on it bottoming in the hole to seal) and that's what has caused all the threads to start folding over (torwards the non hex end of the plus). when you reinserted it, it crossthreaded because of the bad threads on the plug, not the case (cast aluminum being less malleable than steel).

i can tell you that it's a pipe plug, but i have no idea as far as different pipe threads and metric vs standard. i'll leave that to the plumbers. ;P

it seems like boomerang has you covered. i just don't know that a special pipe tap is neccessary. manual trans fluid generally only being changed every 75-100k or so (if ever, for some), i don't see a problem. like i said, worst case, it goes in a little rough, doesn't leak, and maybe someone has a bit of bad luck five years down the road.

 

[RiDE]

FWIW, I think the drainplug threads were damaged from the get go and the plug was run in on the assembly line with an air tool.

i really don't think there's even anything wrong with the trans casing. my guess is someone cranked the shit out of the plug (because they installed without sealer and didn't realize they weren't relying on it bottoming in the hole to seal) and that's what has caused all the threads to start folding over (torwards the non hex end of the plus). when you reinserted it, it crossthreaded because of the bad threads on the plug, not the case (cast aluminum being less malleable than steel).

I think you guys are right. Got the new plugs yesterday and tried them on today. The first one had the same thing happen to the original plug. It took an uncomfortable amount of force but it kept going in. I screwed it out to see how it looked and other than the first couple of threads it looked fine. Got the other new plug and screwed it in for good and refilled the fluid. There's no leak but I haven't driven the car around yet as I still have to bleed the brakes tomorrow. I plan on keeping the car until it dies so I guess I won't have to deal with this again til another 50k or so. :hmm:

Thanks again for the help guys! :thumbsup:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-46-Diff-Fluid/Pic1-01.jpg

It looks exactly like that, with a couple of threads still sticking out. So i guess you guys were right about it being a pipe thread. I learned something new.