Thinking about bicycling to work

[DrVos]

Like the title says, I'm thinking about biking to work. I'm trying to figure out what a good bike would be, what equipment I should get, and safety tips for biking on busy streets.

Some key points are:
-I've never commuted using a bike before, my only experience was recreational MTB'ing
-The path I've scoped out is about 7.5 miles each way, mostly flat, with some potentially hairy traffic-y areas.
-I'm not sure if I am better off getting a used road bike or a decent, new, commuter bike. I'm currently looking at this one. This model MSRP's for $499 which is at the top of my budget. I'm currently thinking that a single speed bike would suit me well since they are more affordable and easier to maintain.

The model above also has all the features I'm looking for in a bike:
-roadbike-esque construction
-dual brakes (many single speed bikes don't come with brakes)
-back wheel can be flipped to be either a fixed or free wheel
-fenders
-looks easy to to maintain

So far my it appears my equipment load out should be:
- helmet
-"u" type lock
- extra tube
- patch kit
- CO2 Cartridges
- Tire Wrench
- possibly a mini crescent wrench

Some safety tips I'm starting to pick up:
- Wear a helmet
- When passing parked cars, make sure to look at driver's seat for people potentially opening their doors
- It's safer staying to the left of the bike lane because you have more of a chance of running into an opened car door then getting hit from behind by a moving car.
- watch out for cars cutting in-front-of/into you when they turn right
- watch out for cars going the opposite way hitting you in the intersection as they turn left
- If you have to fall, try and fall with your arm straight out parallel with the rest of your body...so that you have less of a chance of breaking your clavicle.

Any thoughts or advice from AT's bicyclists?

 

[Safeway]

You seem like you have the basics down. It may take you a while to build up confidence while riding on the road. Cars can be intimidating, especially when the drivers are fucking idiots.

Make your presence on the road known. Don't jockey in the gutter, otherwise, cars will fly pass you in the same lane. If you are riding in the gutter and have to dodge a rock or glass bottle, where will you go? Into the lane and get smashed? Into the curb and get smashed? Bike in the middle of the lane!

I've been in a few near misses. I obey all traffic laws, but cars treat me as if I have to yield all right-of-way to them. I stopped at a stop sign a got 3 seconds before this SUV, but the SUV decided to go when I was in the middle of the damn intersection. Almost clipped my rear wheel and never stopped.

Be careful, be aware, and be ruthless. If a car fucks with you repeatedly, kick their door in and slam your bike on their hood. (Not really.)

In all seriousness, a taxi in downtown Austin was being a pain in the ass. The driver was within inches of me while doing ~23 mph in the right lane. We got to a red light, I turned my bike sideways, and yelled at him to, "Back the fuck up. Get off my fucking ass." The light turns green, I go quickly and get to ~25 mph before the next red light. The entire way, he is probably 2 feet away from me. I stop at the intersection and turn around to look at him just in time to see him speeding towards me. He hit my back tire! I, again, turned my bike sideways in the lane and started laying into him. I slammed my hands on his hood, kicked his car with my metal shoe cleats, and a few guys from the sidewalk joined in. I sat there through the red light and two green light cycles. Chastising him thoroughly. When I eventually decided to go again, he didn't. He stayed half a block from me for the next 8 or so blocks until I turned off the street. I don't recommend doing what I did, but when you have adrenaline pumping in your system, you can't think straight.

 

[larciel]

What an awesome idea!
7.5 miles isn't easy, but it certainly seems like you're upto the challenge!! GOOD!

I agree with the ^^ guy, you got pretty much everything setup. All you need to learn is on the road for you to experience yourself.

Good luck and hope you sustain the effort!!

 

[edcarman]

Pretty much everything's been covered. Just a few extra thoughts (most of which could also apply to driving a car):

- Ride predictably. Don't make sharp movements or swerve all over the place.
- Use hand signals when you're turning etc.
- Obey traffic laws as if you're in your car: motorists will tend to be more accommodating when you do.
- Make yourself visible. Put a headlight and taillight on your bike (which you can actually see from more than a few metres away) and consider wearing a reflective bib or something.
- Be assertive. This doesn't mean ride aggresively, but rather do everything with purpose.
- Be observant. You covered most of it above, but it bares repeating. Try to predict potential hazards before they occur.
- Try not to escalate road rage situations. Safeway's done it, I've done it; but it's generally not a good idea to get aggressive towards motorists. If things go wrong, you're likely to come off second best.
- Even if the other guy is an arsehole, keep the rude gestures to yourself. Take comfort from the fact that he'll die of a heart attack long before you die at a healthy old age!
- Be nice to motorists. Give them a wave of acknowledgement if they stop for you or let you through (even if you do have right of way). It makes them more willing to accept cyclists as equal road users.
- Ride your chosen route at least once before actually commuting it to see how long it takes. You don't want to be late on the first day of your new endeavour.
- Use sunscreen...

Edit: Get some kind of glasses for riding. They keep the wind out of your eyes (so you don't have to squint) and protect you from bits of gravel etc. that get flung up by cars. See if you can get some with interchangeable lenses - clear ones for night/rainy conditions, dark ones for sunny days.

You can also browse through Cycling Forums to see if they have anything.

Ride safely and enjoy it.

 

[MegaVovaN]

Consider bags for your bike, so you won't have to carry stuff in backpack.

Hit up LBS to check the bikes there...on some models/earlier models you can buy cheaper than MSRP.

Over at http://bikeforums.net/ they have a whole subforum devoted to Commuting.

edit: might want to find out your frame size and buy a cheap ~$100 "classic" road bike off Craigslist. Then you won't have to worry too much when it gets stolen.

 

[IGBT]

..be shure to cary an organ donor card.

 

[silverpig]

Don't be afraid to be assertive. If you're going to make a left turn, sit right in the middle of the left turn lane and make the cars behind you wait. If you're off to the side a bit a car coming up behind you might not see you because they're watching oncoming traffic. If you're directly in their sight line, they'll see you.

Clothes are also fairly important. Get a comfy seat and some padded biking shorts. Also get a nice bright thin windbreaker and start off feeling a bit under-dressed. You'll heat up and should be fine on most days with just a t-shirt and windbreaker. I rode this morning at 5:30 am in a t-shirt, light mid-layer, windbreaker, shorts, and neoprene gloves. The temperature was just above freezing and I got up to 60 km/h and was perfectly fine. The ride home at 11 had it a few degrees above freezing and I took off the mid layer or else I'd be much too cold.

Oh and get lots of extra innertubes. They're dirt cheap. If you find your ride has a lot of glass and you're getting a lot of flats, spring for some kevlar tires and you'll be much better off.

Also, make sure to maintain your bike in the off season. If you're not riding in the winter hang it up and spin the tires every once in a while. A quick spring tune up consisting of tightening the spokes will do wonders and can prevent wheel warp if you leave it standing on the ground in one spot all winter.

Keep your tires properly inflated too. If you're getting a road bike type of deal, the pressure is usually between 90 and 120 psi. Harder tires have much less rolling resistance and you'll fly along compared to your old mountain bike. I rode home with a friend a while back and we were on a slight downhill slope. He was pedaling pretty good on his mountain bike to keep up with me coasting along on my road bike. And I was braking slightly too

 

[edcarman]

Originally posted by: silverpig
Keep your tires properly inflated too. If you're getting a road bike type of deal, the pressure is usually between 90 and 120 psi. Harder tires have much less rolling resistance and you'll fly along compared to your old mountain bike. I rode home with a friend a while back and we were on a slight downhill slope. He was pedaling pretty good on his mountain bike to keep up with me coasting along on my road bike. And I was braking slightly too

Or you could consider getting slick tyres for the mountain bike.
In either case, consider pumping them to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall. Your ride will be a bit rougher, but you will get fewer punctures due to the harder tyres.
You should consider a floor pump if you don't already have one. Pumping to max psi with a hand pump get boring quickly.

 

[MegaVovaN]

Originally posted by: edcarman

Originally posted by: silverpig
Keep your tires properly inflated too. If you're getting a road bike type of deal, the pressure is usually between 90 and 120 psi. Harder tires have much less rolling resistance and you'll fly along compared to your old mountain bike. I rode home with a friend a while back and we were on a slight downhill slope. He was pedaling pretty good on his mountain bike to keep up with me coasting along on my road bike. And I was braking slightly too

Or you could consider getting slick tyres for the mountain bike.
In either case, consider pumping them to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall. Your ride will be a bit rougher, but you will get fewer punctures due to the harder tyres.
You should consider a floor pump if you don't already have one. Pumping to max psi with a hand pump get boring quickly.

Get a quality pump at that. In bike shops for maybe $30-40 you can pick a normal floor pump that is compatible with both types of tube (presta and Shreder (sp?).
Floor pump is where your feet are on pump's supports and your arms move piston up and down.

I had sh!t walmart pumps break on me....bought $40 pump from the shop and all is well.

 

[apac]

Make sure you get the right bike! One that fits you and you enjoy riding. Nothing will curb your enthusiasm faster than being uncomfortable for 80 minutes a day.

 

[DrVos]

Thanks for the tips guys!

I'm still trying to decide whether or not I should just get a used road bike or not. I figure that $150-250 would be about right. The few cyclists I know are wary of used bikes, because you never know for sure what they've been through. They also say that reburb'ing the gears, brakes, derailers, etc could easily bring its cost to something approaching that of a new bike (The bike I've got my eyes on at the moment is the Redline 9.2.5 at $500).

If I do end up going with a used road bike what should I be looking for? Any brands that I should keep in mind?

 

[edcarman]

The nice thing about a bike is that any wear and damage is pretty much immediately apparent. There're not many places that a latent defect could hide out of sight.
It's fairly easy to do a thorough visual inspection of the frame and components to check for cracks and wear. Otherwise it's not too expensive to get your LBS to check it for you - they might even do it for free.

The major problem with second hand bikes is finding one that's the right size for you. Apac said it: your bike needs to fit you.

Whatever bike you get, have a proper bike setup done. You'll probably have to pay, but it's amazing what a difference it makes to comfort on the bike.

 

[zebano]

Well I took this winter off (as soon as the ice is gone I'll be riding again!) but the most important thing is to be assertive about your right to the road. That doesn't mean you need the whole lane, just enough that you have room to maneuver and clearance from passing cars. If you ride in the gutter, the cars will give you no respect and pass within 2 feet of you which isn't fun. A minimum of 3-4 feet from the curb is a good starting point, increase it if you feel you need more space.

Regarding bikes. When I rode in the winter, I always rode an old moutain bike. The most important thing is to keep it controlled around corners and when braking.

In all seasons without ice on the ground I ride an old rode bike I paid $125 for and I carry a messenger bag with clothes, food an inner tube, pump, lock, rain gear and a multi-tool. One thing to do is to decide how you will handle rain. I usually pull out a rain coat in sub 55 degree weather (I overheat with raingear when it's warmer than that) but the bus or your car can be good options if your not comfortable getting wet.

Finally, upon arriving at work, do you have a shower available??? This has been my biggest problem and on days when I know I have a meeting with a director/VP I will drive in to work. Most other days, upon arriving, I use a small wet towel to wipe my face, and I arrive early so I can sit at my desk and stop sweating before changing into work attire. My general plan is to coast into work (takes extra time) and ride home fast.

 

[TallBill]

Originally posted by: zebano

Finally, upon arriving at work, do you have a shower available???

#1 reason to NOT ride to work. Don't do it if you are going to be a sweaty mess. It is unprofessional.

 

[DrVos]

Originally posted by: TallBill

Originally posted by: zebano

Finally, upon arriving at work, do you have a shower available???

#1 reason to NOT ride to work. Don't do it if you are going to be a sweaty mess. It is unprofessional.

Fortunately enough, we do happen to have showers at work. I don't think I would have seriously considered cycling to work if we didn't.