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think my chip and board just got fried !!! UPDATE

L

leeland

Diamond Member
well i got a new Xp athlon and epox board...hooked it all up and turned it on....felt like i did all right and then got a normal FF post on the board but no video

took it all apart and the chip is fried with scorch marks on it and also on the board....oh i am so pissed and a bit scared...what the hell do i do...i got it from newegg....and i have never had a problem setting up the new boxes as this is the 5th or so computer i have built....used artic silver for the thermal compound...the heatsink was on and making good contact...the fans were going....i don't know what the hell happened....it was only running for about 15 seconds before i shut it down.....the cpu has a 30 day OEM warranty....

has anyone ever had something simular like this happen....i can't believe i set it up wrong...i clean the heatsink and cpu with alcohol and wore rubber gloves when i was doing it as well with the hook up


please help !!!

leeland
EDIT : Well got the comfirmation RMA number today and sent out the board...chip and the Heatsink...i wasn't too sure on the HS but when i looked it over again and noticed like there was pitting or little groves all of the sudden when i cleaned off the thermal paste...just wierd the whole way around....so hopefully they will replace the products and i will be consulting my computer guru friend to help me with the next assembling attempt 🙂

thanks all who tried to give some insight !!!

leeland

 
well i had the alpha pal 8045 i rubbed the thermal paste on without a problem....and placed a thin layer on the core of the chip....seated the HS on the Chip....didn't move it or twist....tighted it down as much as i could...the screws were spinning after awhile so i didn't try to crank on it and strip the Sh!tty plastic nuts....seemed to be on very squarely and tight....

one question...aside from this...can you use different nuts instead of those crappy plastic ones it comes with....what i am asking can you go and get some regular metal nuts and use that on the Motherboard

leeland
 
well as for the overtightening it is a little vague...i don't mean to be a smart ass...from what i have read on the net is that you need 18 lbs of pressure to ensure good contact....and i also read that you should tighten till the screws turn to ensure it is making good contact.

doesn't make a difference now since this is shot...but will definately make sure i triple check everything next time

could it just have been a bad CPU ??? could it just have gone bad that fast ???

thakns
leeland
 


<< well i got a new Xp athlon and epox board...hooked it all up and turned it on....felt like i did all right and then got a normal FF post on the board but no video

took it all apart and the chip is fried with scorch marks on it and also on the board....oh i am so pissed and a bit scared...what the hell do i do...i got it from newegg....and i have never had a problem setting up the new boxes as this is the 5th or so computer i have built....used artic silver for the thermal compound...the heatsink was on and making good contact...the fans were going....i don't know what the hell happened....it was only running for about 15 seconds before i shut it down.....the cpu has a 30 day OEM warranty....

has anyone ever had something simular like this happen....i can't believe i set it up wrong...i clean the heatsink and cpu with alcohol and wore rubber gloves when i was doing it as well with the hook up


please help !!!

leeland >>




Your kind of problem isn't unheard of. The most probable cause is heatsink not parallel to chipsurface or not adequate contact pressure.

Running a CPU without fan will destroy your CPU in matter of seconds, but it shouldn't damage the mobo and this one, I really don't know why.

 
well thanks for the info jerboy...was curious though...when i am installing the HS...i turned the screws like you do a tire....1//3//2//4// rotation, until i really couldn't tighten them anymore...also the stupid plastic screws were spinning. really thought i couldn't get it any more secure.


Can anyone confirm this question

can you substitute the plastic (crap) nuts for actual nuts you would get from a local hardware store ??
 
same heatsink (xp 1800 cpu). i took the spinning to mean that they had bottomed out per the manual instructions. definately wouldnt want to overtighten. im running 29 right now. get up to about 36 at most. id really suggest against getting metal washers.
 
Just outa curiosity, what kinda heat transfer compund were you useing? iv heard that if you squease i all out it can be just as bad as not haveing any, cant remember where i heard that tho, so dont quote me on it 🙂
 
BrunoPuntzJones

could you please elaborate on why to not get metal washers...does it have something to do with the grounding ??? i was inquiring about the little plastic nuts that come with the Heatsink


and i was using artic silver II for the thermal compound and followed the instructions on appling it to the T
 
I can only think that something kept the heatsink cocked to one side or the other. Check and make sure that nothing around the socket could of held the heatsink up. It is a big heatsink and its possible it got held up on a cap. I thought I read somewhere you had to bend a cap out of the way on the epox board to use the 8045. I may be thinking of a different board, maybe someone who owns the heatsink can verify that for me.

 
That's damn strange alright! The only clues I can find in your statements is the "alcohol" and "CPU" did you insure the alcohol had completely dried before seating the chip and putting the HS/F on? the fact that the board and cpu had burn marks almost suggests an excellerant of sorts such as the alcohol was to blame. Ofcourse it's pure speculation on my behalf but however improbable, it's not impossible.
 
very good point...i did wait for around 5 minutes before i placed the thermal paste on the core and on the Heatsink....i am not wrong am i ???

i can clean the core with alcohol...that isn't frowned apon ??? I would feel like a real tit if that were the case

leeland
 
alcohol is flammable.... but it shoulda dried by then. if there are visible burn marks and such, newegg wont take em back. did u increase voltage or anything or were running default initially? what about the power supply specs?
 
I agree that 5min is enough time for the alcohol to completely dry but you should not have RUBBED Artic Silver on the heatsink or the core. I've never read their directions for application, but I have always just placed a small bead in the center of the core and then attatch the HS/F. the pressure the clip puts on it and the heat will cause the AS to spread out and as long as you don't have to much or to little you'll end up with just the core having a thin layer of AS on it, as it should be. It's possible you may have ended up with Artic Silver which is mildly conductive(ASI more so than ASII) where it shouldn't have been and it resulted in frying your hardware. Once again it's speculation and not written in stone or anything.
 
Leeland,

I striped out one of my nuts with the 8045 and used small brass nuts instead.
I insulated them with 2 red shims that usually come with motherboards.
BTW, I replaced all 4 with brass nuts. Just make sure that any of the nuts
dont hit a lead on the back of the motherboard.
 
Dapunisher, as per Arctic Silver's website, the instructions state that, yes, you do rub the compound into the HS, it's called "tinting." And yes, you do spread a thin layer on the slug. Leeland, here's a link for future reference.

Arctic Silver
 
These reference notes came from this page............................<a target=new class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://www.micforg.co.jp/mb_inf_pal8045e.html#epox">Epox compatiblility with
Alpha 8045</a>

I would recommend going to this site and see the photos to see what they are talking about. It looks like that cap could of held your heatsink up a bit.


NOTE 1 : Special care must be taken when installing the 8045 on these motherboards. There are two surface mount components on the backside of the motherboard, close to the motherboard hole. When installing the standoffs, make sure the nut is not touching these components. Tighten by turning the standoffs while holding the nuts in place. Do not allow the nylon nuts to turn, or these components could be damaged. Please see Photo for reference.

NOTE 2 : The PAL8045 will fit the EP8KHA/8KHA+ board without modification. However, it will contact one of the board's capacitors, POSSIBLY damaging it. Grinding an edge of the base with a DREMEL or file or other tool could be a possible solution. This would, however, make you heat sink non-returnable. Due to these issues, we consider the use of the PAL8045 on this board a "Use at your own risk application."Please see Photo for reference.


 
no i didn't even get any video up, i think that the chip fried in a matter of 10 seconds...i followed the instrcutions on artic silver application and also for the installation of the alpha 8045...like i said per the
instructions

Clean the mating surfaces completely with a low residual solvent (High-purity isopropyl alcohol or acetone will work)

that is what i did basically so i don't know how that could have made it burn up....it was dried off and just baffles me...


thanks all for the info and websites...i have seen them before i started all this mess 🙂
 
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