Call Microsoft Support and see what they have to say. It will be about a year before I would use Vista. I don't see the advantage right now.
Call Microsoft Support and see what they have to say. It will be about a year before I would use Vista. I don't see the advantage right now.
Yes, yours is low too. Mine are +12= 12.16 +5= 4.97 Here read this it will show you how to test your power supply and what normal and minimal values are. How much equipment do you have??
Power Supply
On my NB I am using the Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro and my chipset temps have never gone above 35C while oc'ing. On the SB I just found a generic sink that would fit the pushpin holes and stuck a 40mm fan on it.
I've been hesitant to test with a meter (inexperienced). My values are within +/-10% for lower and +/-5% higher so I never thought much about it. From my research though most software programs are reporting below the actual reading. I will try to get ahold of a meter to try that though, or take it to a local shop to have it tested. I definitely don't like seeing my +12v that low. I even disconnected a HD, no change.
How many amps is it rated for on the 12volts. How many watt PSU
Here's an easier way to test it
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductLi...r+supply+tester&Submit=ENE&N=0&Ntk=all
Hello, this is the first post to this forum, please give me some advice for my problem.
After a week end play. I am now capable of running my PC @ 3600MHz = 400MHz x 9, 3-4-3-9 Dual SuperPi 32M & OCCT 30minutes rock solid.
But all the OC only from my CPU, nothing from my RAM at all
Anyone can tell me how to oc my ram? I tried so many combination but the mem still can't pump. I can only pump up to 900MHz & boot up, works OK but can't prime at all. But the divider became 4:5 which is 800MHz again which is same bandwidth as original. As long as I pushed more than 900MHz then the PC won't boot at all, hang on the logo screen. Sometimes might need to reset the CMOS too. So, from p92 I learned how to OC the CPU but I might be missed something there, can't find the guide on OC the ram. Can anyone help me to start OC the ram?
many thanks!!
After a week end play. I am now capable of running my PC @ 3600MHz = 400MHz x 9, 3-4-3-9 Dual SuperPi 32M & OCCT 30minutes rock solid.
But all the OC only from my CPU, nothing from my RAM at all
Anyone can tell me how to oc my ram? I tried so many combination but the mem still can't pump. I can only pump up to 900MHz & boot up, works OK but can't prime at all. But the divider became 4:5 which is 800MHz again which is same bandwidth as original. As long as I pushed more than 900MHz then the PC won't boot at all, hang on the logo screen. Sometimes might need to reset the CMOS too. So, from p92 I learned how to OC the CPU but I might be missed something there, can't find the guide on OC the ram. Can anyone help me to start OC the ram?
many thanks!!
Well it looks like I won't be attempting any overclocking for a while. At least until I can get an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro on the CPU. The stock heatsink and fan was running hot so I took it off and cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol. The first thing I noticed was that there were a couple of scores along the contact of the heatsink. I probably did this myself when I first put the heatsink on not understanding just how it attached to the motherboard (Always read the instructions peeps). I had been pressing and shoving it and the plastic fasteners on the corners were not turned inwards so it was not clicking in. I did not find that out until too late obviously.
I applied some Arctic Silver 5 very thinly. Reseated the heatsink and booted to the BIOS to see what the temps were. VERY HOT! OK turned off. Took the heatsink off and re-applied the paste a bit thicker and more evenly spread this time. Back on and now I noticed as I put the heatsink back on that it's not a nice firm 'click' onto the board anymore. In fact there is a little bit of play there. My guess is all that messing about with it has made the plastic sprogs on the heatsink a little loose. It just does not sit REALLY firm like it should. To get a good contact with the CPU it needs a really firm grip onto the motherboard.
Back in Windows without Q-Fan on it sits idling at 39-40c on each core. At load using Orthos for 10 minutes it sticks at about 56c. This is with no overclocking and memory running on auto (Obviously wrong timings).
I put Q-Fan back on and set timings to their correct values. Now it's idling at 43-44c respectively. I suspect if I put it under load it will creep to 57c or maybe a little higher depending how much the fan kicks in on it.
Kinda annoyed at myself in screwing up the seating of the heatsink initially. Oh well I will look forward to putting in that Arctic Freezer Pro. I think I can fit it in if I move the swivel heatsink on my video card to one side (I like silence)
EDIT: @ 59c bordering on the evil 60c with Q-Fan on and Orthos running.
I applied some Arctic Silver 5 very thinly. Reseated the heatsink and booted to the BIOS to see what the temps were. VERY HOT! OK turned off. Took the heatsink off and re-applied the paste a bit thicker and more evenly spread this time. Back on and now I noticed as I put the heatsink back on that it's not a nice firm 'click' onto the board anymore. In fact there is a little bit of play there. My guess is all that messing about with it has made the plastic sprogs on the heatsink a little loose. It just does not sit REALLY firm like it should. To get a good contact with the CPU it needs a really firm grip onto the motherboard.
Back in Windows without Q-Fan on it sits idling at 39-40c on each core. At load using Orthos for 10 minutes it sticks at about 56c. This is with no overclocking and memory running on auto (Obviously wrong timings).
I put Q-Fan back on and set timings to their correct values. Now it's idling at 43-44c respectively. I suspect if I put it under load it will creep to 57c or maybe a little higher depending how much the fan kicks in on it.
Kinda annoyed at myself in screwing up the seating of the heatsink initially. Oh well I will look forward to putting in that Arctic Freezer Pro. I think I can fit it in if I move the swivel heatsink on my video card to one side (I like silence)
EDIT: @ 59c bordering on the evil 60c with Q-Fan on and Orthos running.
That does seem a bit high because I'm oc'd with the retail HSF running just barely under those numbers. I just ordered the Artic, hopefully that will help.
Core2 - Thanks for the links on the PS. I was hoping there was something along those lines. Radio Shack prices are about that for just the meters and requires some skill, so I am going get the Coolmaster. Plus, that's a great tool for troubleshooting family and friend rigs.
Originally posted by: p912043
Hello, this is the first post to this forum, please give me some advice for my problem.
After a week end play. I am now capable of running my PC @ 3600MHz = 400MHz x 9, 3-4-3-9 Dual SuperPi 32M & OCCT 30minutes rock solid.
But all the OC only from my CPU, nothing from my RAM at all
Anyone can tell me how to oc my ram? I tried so many combination but the mem still can't pump. I can only pump up to 900MHz & boot up, works OK but can't prime at all. But the divider became 4:5 which is 800MHz again which is same bandwidth as original. As long as I pushed more than 900MHz then the PC won't boot at all, hang on the logo screen. Sometimes might need to reset the CMOS too. So, from p92 I learned how to OC the CPU but I might be missed something there, can't find the guide on OC the ram. Can anyone help me to start OC the ram?
many thanks!!
Welcome Aboard p912043
Actually I thought you doing a good job with your ram at 400MHz timings 3-4-3-9 2T or 1T???. I like lower latencies and are comparable in performance to higher speed and looser timings. What timings are you setting your ram at 900MHz?? I just posted a comparison yesterday of ram running 400MHz at 4-4-4-12 1T VS 1143MHz 5-5-5-15 2T. Its probably a couple pages back.
Reading a review of the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro it seems there is no fan control on it. When attached to the motherboard power connector (I assume it has one). Then Q-Fan (Or the CPU's internal thermal throttling?) should still be able to slow it down when required right? I'd hate to have it running at full speed all the time making a racket.
Well the asus probe is not working correctly with vista so it is pretty much out. As far as the speedfan beta what temps are being monitored if none of them are the NB?
Hey,
I just built my first computer using the P5N-E SLI mobo, and I'm trying to figure out why it is broken. Here is my setup:
eVGA 8800GTX
G Skill 2 x 1 GB @ 800 with 4-4-4-12 timing
Intel 2.4 core 2 duo
ASUS 650i mobo
160 GB Western Digital HDD
Now when I try to install XP Pro the computer either blue screens or crashes and restars itself. The blue screens that come up each time vary and they occur at different points during the installation process. And if it crashes then it flashes some error message for a split second in a windows error box and then shuts down and restarts. Some of the blue screens that I have gotten say I should do a CHKDSK /F or there was another one concerning some process in SP2 that has known errors. But the messages vary and don't occur at the same time during the instal nor are they the same each time.
Now I'm wondering is this a cause of the mother board? Or is something else causing it? I have checked the BIOS and the memory sticks are recognized and good. And the CD drive is a slave to the mobo and the HDD is recognized as well. Would the computer even run if something was wrong with the processor? I ran a disk bootable version of Linux and things seemed to work fine but it would lock up sometimes or crash others, I thought that might be the cruddy programming of the disk bootable version of Linux though.
If anyone can give me tips on what may be causing the problem I would greatly appreciate it. I need to know if my HDD is corrupted, or is my processor funky, or is the mobo just broken? I'm pretty sure it's a hardware issue at this point but I can't figure out which part. Please help!
Thanks!
I just built my first computer using the P5N-E SLI mobo, and I'm trying to figure out why it is broken. Here is my setup:
eVGA 8800GTX
G Skill 2 x 1 GB @ 800 with 4-4-4-12 timing
Intel 2.4 core 2 duo
ASUS 650i mobo
160 GB Western Digital HDD
Now when I try to install XP Pro the computer either blue screens or crashes and restars itself. The blue screens that come up each time vary and they occur at different points during the installation process. And if it crashes then it flashes some error message for a split second in a windows error box and then shuts down and restarts. Some of the blue screens that I have gotten say I should do a CHKDSK /F or there was another one concerning some process in SP2 that has known errors. But the messages vary and don't occur at the same time during the instal nor are they the same each time.
Now I'm wondering is this a cause of the mother board? Or is something else causing it? I have checked the BIOS and the memory sticks are recognized and good. And the CD drive is a slave to the mobo and the HDD is recognized as well. Would the computer even run if something was wrong with the processor? I ran a disk bootable version of Linux and things seemed to work fine but it would lock up sometimes or crash others, I thought that might be the cruddy programming of the disk bootable version of Linux though.
If anyone can give me tips on what may be causing the problem I would greatly appreciate it. I need to know if my HDD is corrupted, or is my processor funky, or is the mobo just broken? I'm pretty sure it's a hardware issue at this point but I can't figure out which part. Please help!
Thanks!
I believe the Arctic products are very quiet. I had the Arctic Freezor 64 Pro (AMD) on my X2 4400+, it was noticeably quieter than the stock HSF. I could only imagine the same out of the Freezer 7 Pro.
Originally posted by: DeadMan3000
Well it looks like I won't be attempting any overclocking for a while. At least until I can get an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro on the CPU. The stock heatsink and fan was running hot so I took it off and cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol. The first thing I noticed was that there were a couple of scores along the contact of the heatsink. I probably did this myself when I first put the heatsink on not understanding just how it attached to the motherboard (Always read the instructions peeps). I had been pressing and shoving it and the plastic fasteners on the corners were not turned inwards so it was not clicking in. I did not find that out until too late obviously.
I applied some Arctic Silver 5 very thinly. Reseated the heatsink and booted to the BIOS to see what the temps were. VERY HOT! OK turned off. Took the heatsink off and re-applied the paste a bit thicker and more evenly spread this time. Back on and now I noticed as I put the heatsink back on that it's not a nice firm 'click' onto the board anymore. In fact there is a little bit of play there. My guess is all that messing about with it has made the plastic sprogs on the heatsink a little loose. It just does not sit REALLY firm like it should. To get a good contact with the CPU it needs a really firm grip onto the motherboard.
Back in Windows without Q-Fan on it sits idling at 39-40c on each core. At load using Orthos for 10 minutes it sticks at about 56c. This is with no overclocking and memory running on auto (Obviously wrong timings).
I put Q-Fan back on and set timings to their correct values. Now it's idling at 43-44c respectively. I suspect if I put it under load it will creep to 57c or maybe a little higher depending how much the fan kicks in on it.
Kinda annoyed at myself in screwing up the seating of the heatsink initially. Oh well I will look forward to putting in that Arctic Freezer Pro. I think I can fit it in if I move the swivel heatsink on my video card to one side (I like silence)
EDIT: @ 59c bordering on the evil 60c with Q-Fan on and Orthos running.
Don't try to spread the paste. With AS5 I put a dab about the size of a BB dead center of the chip . With MX-1 do a little more. The weight and pressure of the heatsink will spread it out evenly. Did you wear down the pins or did the holes widen. Read directions thoroughly and test its function before installing
Its totally controllable It has a four pin plug and fits right on the CPU Fan header. Use speedfan no Qfan (junk)
There are no sensors to monitor. I added my own ( see page 92 ). The NB with out a fan on it can hit 60c or more. If your going to OC the $10.00 for sensors are worth it
Check you ram timings and voltages. Set them manually to spec and No 1T set it to 2T. If your still having problems switch them to the Black slots only. More info on page 92
Originally posted by: Core2
Originally posted by: p912043
Hello, this is the first post to this forum, please give me some advice for my problem.
After a week end play. I am now capable of running my PC @ 3600MHz = 400MHz x 9, 3-4-3-9 Dual SuperPi 32M & OCCT 30minutes rock solid.
But all the OC only from my CPU, nothing from my RAM at all
Anyone can tell me how to oc my ram? I tried so many combination but the mem still can't pump. I can only pump up to 900MHz & boot up, works OK but can't prime at all. But the divider became 4:5 which is 800MHz again which is same bandwidth as original. As long as I pushed more than 900MHz then the PC won't boot at all, hang on the logo screen. Sometimes might need to reset the CMOS too. So, from p92 I learned how to OC the CPU but I might be missed something there, can't find the guide on OC the ram. Can anyone help me to start OC the ram?
many thanks!!
Welcome Aboard p912043
Actually I thought you doing a good job with your ram at 400MHz timings 3-4-3-9 2T or 1T???. I like lower latencies and are comparable in performance to higher speed and looser timings. What timings are you setting your ram at 900MHz?? I just posted a comparison yesterday of ram running 400MHz at 4-4-4-12 1T VS 1143MHz 5-5-5-15 2T. Its probably a couple pages back.
Thanks Core2, I switched from ASUS forum to here because your referal. And I am running 3-4-3-9 1T because I enabled the SLI expert mode. But I tried 4-4-4-12 & 5-5-5-15 2T running higher than 900MHz but still no go. I can work on the PC while running 1650FSB with 9 Multi ~~ 3712MHz BUT will crash SuperPi after few minutes. And I don't understand why I can't pump up the ram to 1066MHz? My C3 spec can either run 400MHz @ 3-4-3-9 or 533MHz @ 5-5-5-15.
Looks like this mobo doesn't like any high freq ram or my bad?! For sure I can't boot when ram higher than 1000MHz & even 950MHz having difficulty also. So strange~~~ Need to find a way to get around that?! May be the memory hole ? Just don't know....
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