Hey I'm really new to all this but ive got a really wierd problem that I don't really see any clear solution to. I have a powmax case with, from what I can tell (havent tested yet), an unreliable 450W 20-pin psu. I'm planning on building soon and am ordering the parts sometime this week. My question is, judging from the unreliability of my PSU should i just get an pci-express power adapter and try it, dont get an adapter at all and try and if it dies get a new PSU or just buy another PSU and toss the Powmax out without risking it.
sorry if this sounds really dumb
sorry if this sounds really dumb
Hello all. nice thread. answers a lot of questions especially for 20->24 pin adapters.
well I have a nice 20 pin PSU Antec True power 480 W and i dont want to pay again. I was thinking to do the following mod.
Since adapter isnt a good solution, maybe we could draw power from another rail. I have a 20 pin molex from an old PSU. I could cut the piece of the 20 pin molex that fits in the 4 "new" extra pins of the 24pin motherboard. then remove a HDD molex from an empty PSU rail and use the right pins in the right order in the modded extra 4 pin molex. i think the order is this
+3,3 - COM
+12 - +5
the hdd molex pins provide the +12, +5 and COM. the problem is 3,3V which in my PSU only exists in the AUX molex connector(and the 20 pin of course). I think AUX is useless and I could remove a 3,3v wire and add it in the modded extra 4 pin molex.
Any comments? do you think it would provide the extra power since it is from another line and not a split cable like the adapter?
well I have a nice 20 pin PSU Antec True power 480 W and i dont want to pay again. I was thinking to do the following mod.
Since adapter isnt a good solution, maybe we could draw power from another rail. I have a 20 pin molex from an old PSU. I could cut the piece of the 20 pin molex that fits in the 4 "new" extra pins of the 24pin motherboard. then remove a HDD molex from an empty PSU rail and use the right pins in the right order in the modded extra 4 pin molex. i think the order is this
+3,3 - COM
+12 - +5
the hdd molex pins provide the +12, +5 and COM. the problem is 3,3V which in my PSU only exists in the AUX molex connector(and the 20 pin of course). I think AUX is useless and I could remove a 3,3v wire and add it in the modded extra 4 pin molex.
Any comments? do you think it would provide the extra power since it is from another line and not a split cable like the adapter?
Hey
Im happy to read I might be able to use one of my 20 pin PSU's. This upgrade is costing me much as it is
AMD 64 3500+ with a DFI Lanparty UT Ultra-D and a Powercolor X800XL graphic card.
I checked my PSU's and the Chieftec had an amp rating of 17A on the 12V and my Enermax had a 32A on the 12V so I
I guess the Enermax it is and hopefully it will be enough. This machine will only have 1 HD and 1 dvd burner.
oh and Im also hoping my old Crucial and Samsung PC2700 DDR ram also will work
Hopefully I will get my hands on my cpu soon so I can test. I prepaid to get it fast from a store that had in stock.
That nicely when they got my money told me that it was not in stock and they wouldnt get any new in for a few weeks.
Hopefully they will refund me and I find some other store with em in stock soon
Got the Motherboard and graphic card today with a notice that there had been water damage during transport.
Couldnt find any sigh of this inside the package so hopefully that hadnt caused any damage.
So far this upgrade have been less than I had hoped for
Lundis
Im happy to read I might be able to use one of my 20 pin PSU's. This upgrade is costing me much as it is
AMD 64 3500+ with a DFI Lanparty UT Ultra-D and a Powercolor X800XL graphic card.
I checked my PSU's and the Chieftec had an amp rating of 17A on the 12V and my Enermax had a 32A on the 12V so I
I guess the Enermax it is and hopefully it will be enough. This machine will only have 1 HD and 1 dvd burner.
oh and Im also hoping my old Crucial and Samsung PC2700 DDR ram also will work
Hopefully I will get my hands on my cpu soon so I can test. I prepaid to get it fast from a store that had in stock.
That nicely when they got my money told me that it was not in stock and they wouldnt get any new in for a few weeks.
Hopefully they will refund me and I find some other store with em in stock soon
Got the Motherboard and graphic card today with a notice that there had been water damage during transport.
Couldnt find any sigh of this inside the package so hopefully that hadnt caused any damage.
So far this upgrade have been less than I had hoped for
Lundis
the 3200 are out of stock also as well as the 3000. The only ones that I can find
in stock are the 3800 and 4000 with Newcastle core. AMD 64's have sold like
butter in Sweden. and I doubt my ram would overclock that well
in stock are the 3800 and 4000 with Newcastle core. AMD 64's have sold like
butter in Sweden. and I doubt my ram would overclock that well
Googer
Lifer
- Nov 11, 2004
- 12,576
- 7
- 81
Originally posted by: Lundis
Hey
Im happy to read I might be able to use one of my 20 pin PSU's. This upgrade is costing me much as it is
AMD 64 3500+ with a DFI Lanparty UT Ultra-D and a Powercolor X800XL graphic card.
I checked my PSU's and the Chieftec had an amp rating of 17A on the 12V and my Enermax had a 32A on the 12V so I
I guess the Enermax it is and hopefully it will be enough. This machine will only have 1 HD and 1 dvd burner.
oh and Im also hoping my old Crucial and Samsung PC2700 DDR ram also will work
Hopefully I will get my hands on my cpu soon so I can test. I prepaid to get it fast from a store that had in stock.
That nicely when they got my money told me that it was not in stock and they wouldnt get any new in for a few weeks.
Hopefully they will refund me and I find some other store with em in stock soon
Got the Motherboard and graphic card today with a notice that there had been water damage during transport.
Couldnt find any sigh of this inside the package so hopefully that hadnt caused any damage.
So far this upgrade have been less than I had hoped for
Lundis
It depends on the motherboard, if you can use a 20 pin on a 24pin socket.
If you had any water damage during shipping, Call the shipping company (DHL, UPS, Fedex) and file an Insurnace Claim. Tell them there were computer electronics inside the package and I got wet during shipping. Depending on the amount of insurance coverage you had you may get that much back. UPS and Fedex provide the first $100 free and is included in the cost of shipping aditional Insurance is about $1 per $100.
I think you're missing the point - your old 20 pin will work fine in the 24 pin boards. I have a TruePower 430 with the old 20 pin connector and it works fine in a 24 pin board. Why mod when you don't have to?
Also, it's always a good idea to check the specs of the PSU you're getting, since you can't always go by total wattage. An Antec Smartpower 450 actually has less Amps on the 12v rail than a TruePower 430.
Googer
Lifer
- Nov 11, 2004
- 12,576
- 7
- 81
Originally posted by: Lundis
the 3200 are out of stock also as well as the 3000. The only ones that I can find
in stock are the 3800 and 4000 with Newcastle core. AMD 64's have sold like
butter in Sweden. and I doubt my ram would overclock that well
Are you from sweeden?
You can reuse your ram in your new computer.
hm have tried to mail DFI technical support to ask them about it. But I just get an "Exception: java.sql.SQLException: ORA-01401: ?????????"
error with both IE, Firefox and Opera. Might call em tomorrow to thier Dutch office. Hopefully they speak English there.
error with both IE, Firefox and Opera. Might call em tomorrow to thier Dutch office. Hopefully they speak English there.
Well seems my Enermax is enough to power this rig.
Seem to work and havnt seen any instablity yet.
Aside from not getting dual memory to work yet. When I try it just beep on me.
But I remember reading something about other people having problems with that and a bios update fixed it. Ill look at it more when I get back from work. damn cpu to get here after the weekend leaving me to have to do this between work hours
Seem to work and havnt seen any instablity yet.
Aside from not getting dual memory to work yet. When I try it just beep on me.
But I remember reading something about other people having problems with that and a bios update fixed it. Ill look at it more when I get back from work. damn cpu to get here after the weekend leaving me to have to do this between work hours
Great thread going here. It has shed some light on a very gray area.
I am no PC guru - and new to these forums, but I think I can also say that unfortunately this thread will be referenced with increasing frequency.
I have a Thermaltake 480W, ATX 2.03 standard, in unopened box for my new system - but will probably have to take it back as it only has the 20 pin connector after reading about it.
My new ECS KN1 Extreme manual says its a "ATX sized" MB, yet it sports the Intel BTX 1.0a 24 pin connector. The MB manual states instructions on how to install a 20 pin connector but warns "However, using 20 pin power cable may cause the system to become unbootable or unstable because of insufficient electricity."
So yes it is "Backwards compatable" but with a strong warning in this ECS case.
Since I will run a ATI X800XL that apparently draws all its nourishment only from the PCI-Express socket with no additional power connector, this would seem like a headache waiting to happen.
IMO to manufacture otherwise ATX 2.03 boards with a BTX 1.0a primary power connector has, and will continue to make a soup of current component compatilibilty.
The current PCI-Express motherboards are neither ATX 2.03 nor BTX 1.0a, they are ATX 2.03/BTX 1.0a.
I am no PC guru - and new to these forums, but I think I can also say that unfortunately this thread will be referenced with increasing frequency.
I have a Thermaltake 480W, ATX 2.03 standard, in unopened box for my new system - but will probably have to take it back as it only has the 20 pin connector after reading about it.
My new ECS KN1 Extreme manual says its a "ATX sized" MB, yet it sports the Intel BTX 1.0a 24 pin connector. The MB manual states instructions on how to install a 20 pin connector but warns "However, using 20 pin power cable may cause the system to become unbootable or unstable because of insufficient electricity."
So yes it is "Backwards compatable" but with a strong warning in this ECS case.
Since I will run a ATI X800XL that apparently draws all its nourishment only from the PCI-Express socket with no additional power connector, this would seem like a headache waiting to happen.
IMO to manufacture otherwise ATX 2.03 boards with a BTX 1.0a primary power connector has, and will continue to make a soup of current component compatilibilty.
The current PCI-Express motherboards are neither ATX 2.03 nor BTX 1.0a, they are ATX 2.03/BTX 1.0a.
I'm having trouble with my KN1. Monitor signal disappeared at one point and I eventually found out that it was related to a power issue - if I removed power from devices I got the signal back. I have an Antec 430 TruePower - it's running a VNF4 just fine now with exactly the same devices as the KN1 did (failing on video signal), so I'm wondering if the KN1 isn't one of the new boards that truly does need a 24 pin psu.
I think I read somewhere that the last 4 pins have to do with the PCI 16x slot, and since I'm running an 800xl, which does not have an external connecton, I think this may be the problem.
Is anyone else here running an 800xl or 6600gt on this board without problems? If so, please state your system specs including your PSU.
BTW, I paid $119 for my KN1 a week ago!
I think I read somewhere that the last 4 pins have to do with the PCI 16x slot, and since I'm running an 800xl, which does not have an external connecton, I think this may be the problem.
Is anyone else here running an 800xl or 6600gt on this board without problems? If so, please state your system specs including your PSU.
BTW, I paid $119 for my KN1 a week ago!
So on my chaintech VNF4/ultra, would this be the correct way to insert the 20-pin PSU?
http://img229.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img229&image=13152049020hv.jpg
http://img229.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img229&image=13152049020hv.jpg
Pr0d1gy
Diamond Member
- Jan 30, 2005
- 7,774
- 0
- 76
Best.Thread.Ever
Nice to see the truth come out. You don't need a $150 PCP&E to power the latest high end setups. I am building a gaming rig with the following:
MSI Neo4 Platinum SLI
AMD 3200+
Corsair Xpert or Patriot TCCD 1gb pairs (might use both...lol)
Raptor 74gb
WD 200gb IDE
CD-ROM
lots of fans
Video Card is undecided as of now.
Tell me some good PSU's under $100 that would work very well with this. I won't be doing SLI yet, but obviously down the road I plan to. Thanks.
Nice to see the truth come out. You don't need a $150 PCP&E to power the latest high end setups. I am building a gaming rig with the following:
MSI Neo4 Platinum SLI
AMD 3200+
Corsair Xpert or Patriot TCCD 1gb pairs (might use both...lol)
Raptor 74gb
WD 200gb IDE
CD-ROM
lots of fans
Video Card is undecided as of now.
Tell me some good PSU's under $100 that would work very well with this. I won't be doing SLI yet, but obviously down the road I plan to. Thanks.
Pr0d1gy
Diamond Member
- Jan 30, 2005
- 7,774
- 0
- 76
Bump, can we get this stickied? I'm so sick of people saying we need to buy an OCZ or PCP&E for new systems. It is getting stupid when you have to pay more for your PSU than you do for your CPU, beyond stupid. This thread debunks those people who say you have to buy those PSU's and speaks the truth, and everyone should see this thread when considering a PSU.
I disagree. It's not stupid to pay dollar for a psu that will last you a lot longer (in most cases) than a cpu will. In fact most people keep the same psu for several upgrade cycles. Now I disagree with everyone recommending an extremely powerful psu for an average build, and the user doesn't really plan on going all out down the road either, but for an SLI system you should use a quality psu. If you can afford an SLI rig, you can afford to spend $90-$150 for a nice psu. Most high dollar psu's come with a 3-5yr warranty, and IMHO that's good insurance. In fact that's one reason I splurged for an OCZ PS 520w psu.
UsandThem
Elite Member
- May 4, 2000
- 16,068
- 7,383
- 146
Pr0d1gy,
You just posted this:
Why spend so much money on a video card and so on, and then want a cheaply made power supply? You can tell the difference just by picking up a nice power supply, compared to a cheap unit. Cheap units are very light. Cheap power supplies are notorious for taking out other parts with them when they go.
People could argue that it is stupid to pay $400.00 for a video card, when in 6 months to one year, they will have something much faster and cheaper. However, most people want to buy quality parts to last them for a while.
Now, I agree that most people here building a average system don't need at 400w unit. Most could buy a quality 350w unit and be fine. You should always look at the long term, and I would rather pay a little extra for a high quality unit with more power than I need. Voltage requirements are only going to go up, not down.
I know that I have a power supply (OCZ 420w) that is backed by a five year warranty, is very well built, and will last me for my upgrades for at least the next three years (if not more).
Read any guides out there, and they all talk about how important a good quality power supply is.
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