The Samsung SmartThings home automation thread

[IndyColtsFan]

Hello everyone,

We were taking up space in the Wink thread, so I thought I'd make a new thread for us to discuss the SmartThings platform and our automations. For those who are unfamiliar with SmartThings, it is an open platform which houses Zigbee and Zwave radios and allows you to connect various home automation devices so that you can create automation scripts, control the devices with your phone, etc. Because the system is open, if a device isn't supported out-of-the-box by Samsung, the SmartThings community often will create device handlers or SmartApps for those devices. First, let's define some common SmartThings terms:

Terms:
IDE (Integrated Development Environment): This is the web-based environment where you can paste device code, SmartApp code, change device types, etc. The URL is https://graph.api.smartthings.com/ and you would just log in with your SmartThings account.

Device Handler: A device handler is basically a device driver for SmartThings. It tells SmartThings how to use a device. The Official SmartThings Community (also linked in the next section) is the place to go to find out if a device is natively supported by SmartThings and if not, if a device handler has been written.

SmartApp: A smart app is an application which allows SmartThings to perform certain tasks. SmartApps are available from Samsung or can be developed by the community to augment features in SmartThings. The best example of a complex SmartApp created by the community is CoRE, which is explained below.

I wanted this initial thread to have links to some of my favorite SmartThings resources on the web. So, I've compiled a few key links:

Links:
Official Site: https://www.smartthings.com/
Official SmartThings Community: https://community.smartthings.com/
SmartThings Facebook Community: https://www.facebook.com/groups/713465198796558/

Additionally, no SmartThings system is complete IMO without integrating a few key components. Two of the key components are linked here:

1. CoRE (Community's own Rule Engine): CoRE is a very complex and sophisticated rules engine which allows you to perform complex automations, scheduling, notifications, etc. I'm sure we'll discuss more about CoRE in this thread, but here are some good links:

About CoRE and install instructions: http://thingsthataresmart.wiki/index.php?title=CoRE
Get peer assistance with CoRE pistons: https://community.smartthings.com/t/core-get-peer-assistance-here-with-setting-up-pistons/50187

2. SmartTiles: SmartTile is a free SmartApp which gives you the ability to create web-based control dashboards for SmartThings. Note that SmartTiles will be replaced with ActionTiles at some point in the future, and ActionTiles will require a payment of some sort, which is to be determined. A typical SmartTiles dashboard looks like the example below, but you can theme it differently using CSS and other tools:

SmartTiles: https://community.smartthings.com/t...notes-etc-follow-this-topic-for-updates/48641

I think that's it for my initial post. I will try to make some posts later detailing hardware recommendations.

 

[poofyhairguy]

So CoRE is the kind of thing where I can set my entry lights to come on when my wife's phone comes home? Currently I am doing that with SmartRules, but I would love more control (like having the lights go off after five minutes).

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Yes, you can use CoRE to do that. Right now, for example, my exterior and interior garage lights come on when a garage door opens and will turn off 10 minutes later, thanks to CoRE. At one time, I did have it using geofencing to turn the lights on but I had issues. I do think it is time for me to revisit that, however, as my presence sensing seems to be working much better.

Another use for CoRE is polling. I have a piston set up to poll certain devices every few minutes. The goal is to get updated sensor settings so I can automate my humidifiers.

 

[slag]

I think I've decided to go with in wall switches instead of individual remote controlled bulbs and just get dimmable 2700k bulbs for most of the house. My house is spread out, though, and have a lot of 3 way switches to control lights and a couple ceiling fans from either side of the room. I haven't looked yet, but what's the best way to wire three way switches up to use with GH and ST?

The builder and electrician went way overboard when wiring up this house and the number if switches scattered throughout with multiple zones and we have can lights with plastic liners throughout so if I did decided to go with hue down the road, interference would be minimal.

Looks like I need something like
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Lighting-Control-Three-Way/dp/B0035YUOWC
My wife is going to quickly get tired of this I can tell already.

 

[poofyhairguy]

Looks like I need something like
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Lighting-Control-Three-Way/dp/B0035YUOWC

That is what I use. You don't need to buy the two pack though. You can get the regular switch and the addon switch:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-...ncoding=UTF8&refRID=C1K1FC3GWAVY6EFQJ48X&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-...ncoding=UTF8&refRID=C1K1FC3GWAVY6EFQJ48X&th=1

Together they make the same set and are often cheaper than the pack is. Also you can combo that add on switch to say a fan module instead. Also note a lot of this is at Lowes and ebay is full of $10 of $50 coupons for like $2 each.

Here is a video to walk you through it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kizwU0py3c0

Cheezy but effective. Work great with Smarthings, which also means works great with a Google Home.

My wife is going to quickly get tired of this I can tell already.

Yeah that has been my real problem too. My strategy is to buy enough to replace multi switch boxes or three way lights all at once, and then doing it when she isn't around to not annoy her.

 

[thestrangebrew1]

I'm just starting to get into HA and I'm addicted now. I have 3 dots, harmony elite, phillips hue, an ecobee and smartthings. I'm still messing around and learning how to integrate things, primarily the smart tv. My wife doesn't like talking to alexa, but she was pretty impressed that i could turn the lights off and on while we were away on vacation. And also that i turned our furnace on about an hr before we got home and it was nice and toasty inside.

 

[slag]

Is it possible with GH and ST to set up a calendar entry to turn the lights on every morning at 6 am and turn them off every night at a certain time just by voice.. aka, "ok google, turn the lights on every morning at 6:00 am" or something like that.

 

[KentState]

Is it possible with GH and ST to set up a calendar entry to turn the lights on every morning at 6 am and turn them off every night at a certain time just by voice.. aka, "ok google, turn the lights on every morning at 6:00 am" or something like that.

Don't know about GH, but I do this with ST and my Echo. I have had good success using both a set time as well as sunrise/sunset with a time offset.

 

[slag]

I'm going to buy some in wall dimmable switches today to use with my GH via a smart things hub (which is also arriving tomorrow).

This is the GE switch for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Is there a lutron or wemo switch that is a better alternative and cheaper?

Thought I had found a super cheap lutron but it wasn't smart enabled.

 

[KentState]

I'm going to buy some in wall dimmable switches today to use with my GH via a smart things hub (which is also arriving tomorrow).

This is the GE switch for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Is there a lutron or wemo switch that is a better alternative and cheaper?

Thought I had found a super cheap lutron but it wasn't smart enabled.

I have a number of those in my house and it works really well with ST. Can't speak for other options, but the GE switch is solid.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I'm going to buy some in wall dimmable switches today to use with my GH via a smart things hub (which is also arriving tomorrow).

This is the GE switch for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Is there a lutron or wemo switch that is a better alternative and cheaper?

Thought I had found a super cheap lutron but it wasn't smart enabled.

I'm not sure about Wemo, but Lutron isn't directly compatible with SmartThings at this time. Lutron announced at CES last week that SmartThings will have official support early this year, but you'll likely need the Lutron bridge and it will be a cloud-to-cloud integration. There are some unofficial integrations between ST and Lutron that work as well.

I think I mentioned in the other thread that I am using in-wall relays rather than smart switches. With the relays, you can use your existing switches and the relays are often cheaper than the smart switches. For example, a smart switch is generally $30-$50 depending on features, whereas the relay is typically $30-$40 and is usually a dual relay, meaning you can control 2 switches.

 

[slag]

Got my smart things hub in the mail today but i'm leaving for a scouting trip in 30 minutes and wont be back until tomorrow late morning, so I'll set it up then. I also went to Menards today and picked up 40 soft white dimmable LED BR30 floods for $1.70 apiece and some 2 pack A19 LED bulbs for $1.99 apiece. I am just looking for some more GE switches at a good price so I can get the whole ball rolling. I'm wanting to upgrade all my switches due to the newer look over the almond old school switches I have now and I want everything in ceiling to be dimmable.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Got my smart things hub in the mail today but i'm leaving for a scouting trip in 30 minutes and wont be back until tomorrow late morning, so I'll set it up then. I also went to Menards today and picked up 40 soft white dimmable LED BR30 floods for $1.70 apiece and some 2 pack A19 LED bulbs for $1.99 apiece. I am just looking for some more GE switches at a good price so I can get the whole ball rolling. I'm wanting to upgrade all my switches due to the newer look over the almond old school switches I have now and I want everything in ceiling to be dimmable.

One thing to keep in mind about GE switches is that there is a switch called an "add-on" switch, which is usually about $20 or so. That switch is used in 3 way applications - you get one "normal" switch and then the add-on switch for the other side. That might save you some money if you have some 3 way applications.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

So, I mentioned I was going to make some hardware/sensor recommendations for SmartThings and I think I'll mention some of the components I'm currently using in my HA environment. Everyone should chime in with their equipment and experiences too. Here are the major components of my system:

Major Components
1. Samsung SmartThings hub - the main subject of this thread.
2. Amazon Echo - I have 8 Echo devices in my home (2 of the "big" Echo cylinders and 6 of the small Dots). I have them spread throughout the house to ensure there is voice coverage everywhere and it is working pretty well. Actually, I haven't deployed the 8th unit yet - the Dot in my kitchen is on top of my refrigerator and is close to the Dot in the adjacent room, so I'm thinking about moving it to a more central location and then I'll take the 8th unit and install it in the garage or maybe my car.
3. Logitech Harmony hubs - I have 3 of the Harmony Home hubs integrated with SmartThings and two of them are controllable with Echo (I need to get the third one added soon). I used them to control my home entertainment devices but they're very flexible and can control almost any IR device - I have a portable AC in my office since central air can't cool it fast enough with all my equipment, and I can use Harmony to power it on and off.
4. Blink cameras - I have 10 Blink cameras spread throughout the house, focusing on entry points, my dog's cage, and my office. One is on my front porch, protected from the elements. I've preordered one of their external cameras and will probably eventually deploy a second, "exterior" Blink camera network with 3 or 4 exterior cameras.
5. ecobee - my most recent addition is an ecobee3 thermostat, which I'm still playing with.
6. Nest - I recently integrated my Nest Protect smoke alarms into SmartThings as well. I'll eventually add more of them to the home but I currently have 2 to complement two wired Kidde smoke alarms.

I don't have everything tightly integrated yet. In the future, I envision having routines or CoRE pistons built which will integrate several components (sensors, Blink cameras, etc) into a complete home security system.

Sensors/Devices
I have sensors and devices from many different brands in my home, primarily because I'd buy them on sale if they had a feature I needed.

1. Lowes Iris (second generation, in the purple boxes) - As a general rule of thumb, my favorite devices are from the Lowes Iris (second generation - purple boxes) line. They're cheap, reliable, locally available, and often add additional features (temp sensors in every device) over competitors. I currently use Lowes Iris contact sensors, motion sensors, and smart plugs throughout the house. I also have the Iris keypad and smart button - I'd avoid the smart button for sure, but the keypad is an interesting device which will eventually integrate with my home security system.
2. Aeon Labs devices - I have six of the older Aeon energy-monitoring power switches and recently bought two of the minimotes. In general, Aeon is pretty solid and has a ton of support from the SmartThings Community.
3. Presence sensing - There is a SmartThings presence sensor, but it gets very mixed reviews. Right now, I have added my phone as a presence sensor and also am using Life 360 as a presence sensor. I was having issues with my old Samsung Galaxy S4 not being reliable as a presence sensor, but my iPhone 7 Plus seems more reliable so I'll probably re-enable some of my geo-fenced rules soon.
4. Water sensors - For water sensors, I use the Monoprice/GoControl contact sensors and attached probe wires to the external contacts in the device. Someone in the community modified the standard Monoprice/GoControl contact sensor device handler to show "Dry/Wet" instead of "Open/Closed." These sensors can usually be purchased for much less than a dedicated water sensor and work just as well - as a matter-of-fact, one of these sensors detected a water leak from my water heater after a plumber left one day and I was able to call him and get him back. I actually bought 3 of the GoControl kits from Home Depot on clearance several months ago and have yet to deploy everything.

 

[pmark]

So, I mentioned I was going to make some hardware/sensor recommendations for SmartThings and I think I'll mention some of the components I'm currently using in my HA environment. Everyone should chime in with their equipment and experiences too. Here are the major components of my system:

Major Components
1. Samsung SmartThings hub - the main subject of this thread.
2. Amazon Echo - I have 8 Echo devices in my home (2 of the "big" Echo cylinders and 6 of the small Dots). I have them spread throughout the house to ensure there is voice coverage everywhere and it is working pretty well. Actually, I haven't deployed the 8th unit yet - the Dot in my kitchen is on top of my refrigerator and is close to the Dot in the adjacent room, so I'm thinking about moving it to a more central location and then I'll take the 8th unit and install it in the garage or maybe my car.
3. Logitech Harmony hubs - I have 3 of the Harmony Home hubs integrated with SmartThings and two of them are controllable with Echo (I need to get the third one added soon). I used them to control my home entertainment devices but they're very flexible and can control almost any IR device - I have a portable AC in my office since central air can't cool it fast enough with all my equipment, and I can use Harmony to power it on and off.
4. Blink cameras - I have 10 Blink cameras spread throughout the house, focusing on entry points, my dog's cage, and my office. One is on my front porch, protected from the elements. I've preordered one of their external cameras and will probably eventually deploy a second, "exterior" Blink camera network with 3 or 4 exterior cameras.
5. ecobee - my most recent addition is an ecobee3 thermostat, which I'm still playing with.
6. Nest - I recently integrated my Nest Protect smoke alarms into SmartThings as well. I'll eventually add more of them to the home but I currently have 2 to complement two wired Kidde smoke alarms.

I don't have everything tightly integrated yet. In the future, I envision having routines or CoRE pistons built which will integrate several components (sensors, Blink cameras, etc) into a complete home security system.

Sensors/Devices
I have sensors and devices from many different brands in my home, primarily because I'd buy them on sale if they had a feature I needed.

1. Lowes Iris (second generation, in the purple boxes) - As a general rule of thumb, my favorite devices are from the Lowes Iris (second generation - purple boxes) line. They're cheap, reliable, locally available, and often add additional features (temp sensors in every device) over competitors I currently use Lowes Iris contact sensors, motion sensors, and smart plugs throughout the house. I also have the Iris keypad and smart button - I'd avoid the smart button for sure, but the keypad is an interesting device which will eventually integrate with my home security system.
2. Aeon Labs devices - I have six of the older Aeon energy-monitoring power switches and recently bought two of the minimotes. In general, Aeon is pretty solid and has a ton of support from the SmartThings Community.
3. Presence sensing - There is a SmartThings presence sensor, but it gets very mixed reviews. Right now, I have added my phone as a presence sensor and also am using Life 360 as a presence sensor. I was having issues with my old Samsung Galaxy S4 not being reliable as a presence sensor, but my iPhone 7 Plus seems more reliable so I'll probably re-enable some of my geo-fenced rules soon.
4. Water sensors - For water sensors, I use the Monoprice/GoControl contact sensors and attached probe wires to the external contacts in the device. Someone in the community modified the standard Monoprice/GoControl contact sensor device handler to show "Dry/Wet" instead of "Open/Closed." These sensors can usually be purchased for much less than a dedicated water sensor and work just as well - as a matter-of-fact, one of these sensors detected a water leak from my water heater after a plumber left one day and I was able to call him and get him back. I actually bought 3 of the GoControl kits from Home Depot on clearance several months ago and have yet to deploy everything.

Any reason the nest protect instead of the first alert z wave smoke detectors?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Any reason the nest protect instead of the first alert z wave smoke detectors?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Nest has CO detection as well (not sure about First Alert) and I'm generally not a fan of First Alert products.

 

[pmark]

Nest has CO detection as well (not sure about First Alert) and I'm generally not a fan of First Alert products.

The first alert has co detection too but your reasoning makes sense

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Also forgot to mention that the Monoprice stuff is pretty good and is generally rebranded Linear or Zooz (in the case of the multisensor) stuff. I use the tilt sensors on my garage doors and they work great.

 

[slag]

I bought a couple double switch relays. Is it possible to wire them up on a 3 way switch, or is the best way to handle that still with a smart light switch and addon switch?

Seems that its possible according to some of the posts I've read. Still in the air as to whether I want to use switches or relays (in wall switches). Seems like 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Also guess I can only dim the lights by voice or app but using the switch is full on or off obviously. In that regard, it might be easier to have the dimmer on the switch. I really like the look of the GE switches, too, and they would be fresh and clean and spruce up the switch areas.

 

[KentState]

The first alert has co detection too but your reasoning makes sense

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I have the First Alert Smoke/CO units in my house and don't have any issues. I purchased a spare one to test and it does alert when exposed to both smoke and CO. In ST they show battery level and they can be setup to report when the battery does get low. However, after 10 months, the battery is still at ~80% on average.

 

[CAL7]

@IndyColtsFan As a veteran, and a casualty, of the presence-sensing wars, I can attest to how frustrating it can be. Applicable only to Android, take a look at the Tasker solution posted in the ST Community by "destructure00". It gives a detailed recipe that I have implemented with tremendous success. It is accurate and power thrifty with minimal lag.

 

[slag]

Installed and configured my first light switch. This is a game changer. So easy to use, easy to configure, and it just works with a relatively fast response. I just wish I could turn off the verbal response from GH. Just the beeps are enough to know that you heard me and are going to do what I asked. The app updates quickly also to show the light status, even on 4g when I'm away from the house.

 

[cliftonite]

As someone who is going to build a new home. Is there something we can do to make it ready to easily upgrade it to be smart capable? Ive read that running neutral to every box is one thing that we can do. The Toll "automation" package is around 6k and I think we would get better value doing it ourselves.

 

[poofyhairguy]

I have the First Alert Smoke/CO units in my house and don't have any issues. I purchased a spare one to test and it does alert when exposed to both smoke and CO. In ST they show battery level and they can be setup to report when the battery does get low. However, after 10 months, the battery is still at ~80% on average.

Yeah I am liking my First Alert Smoke/Co unit so far. The integration with Smarthings was very easy.

I also have to say that the cheap Iris Z wave thermostats I got from Lowes are working very well! I have these two:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GoControl-7-Day-Programmable-Thermostat-Works-With-Iris/999961039

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-7-Day-Touch-Screen-Programmable-Thermostat-Works-With-Iris/3735317

Works out of the box with my Smarthings, which means Google Home can control it every way it can control a Nest.

I love the GE wall switches but the GE fan and Dimmer has been weird so far. The Fan control is a device type problem- Smarthings thinks its a wall dimmer. There is a custom device type in the community that might fix it I haven't tried yet because I like that GE stuff is run locally if you avoid custom device types.

The dimmer is recognized properly, but it makes the LED light its connected to flicker instead of dim at low percentages. I might just replace it with a normal switch and give up the dimming capability in that room.

 

[Aikouka]

Ive read that running neutral to every box is one thing that we can do.

That is one huge thing that can help as some switches do require a neutral connection. Although, that is one nice thing about Lutron's Caseta switches... they don't. You may also want to consider Ethernet to certain places if you want to add in PoE-based cameras. That's not really home automation since they aren't as automated as some of the WiFi-based cameras that you get today, but they also don't need a nearby outlet.

The dimmer is recognized properly, but it makes the LED light its connected to flicker instead of dim at low percentages. I might just replace it with a normal switch and give up the dimming capability in that room.

Could that be an issue with the dimmer trying to handle LED? I had a normal switch (not evne a dimmer) connected to my LED light fixture, and it was blinking like crazy. This was just a standard, run-of-the-mill Leviton 2-way switch. I replaced it with a Lutron Diva LED dimmer, and it all went away. Maybe you could test it using a dimmable incandescent bulb?