- Nov 21, 2001
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It would be much better if you had access to a shop. Gearing up from scratch is not worth it at all.
In truth, I cannot justify doing this myself except that I enjoy it and I'm doing some custom things.
If you wanted some really nice cabinets you can measure up and order them built and then get a good finish carpenter to help you hang them.
Tools I am using:
1) Cabinet saw. used, $700. I could do it with a contractor's size saw for less money, but hey, I'm building cabinets.
2) decent sized compressor, $200
3) Narrow crown stapler, $150
4) finish nailer, $100 I don't use it often but some of my shelves are pinned in where you can't see the nail.
5) Miter saw, $100 If it cuts square that is all I need
6) cordless drills and drivers, $200
7) dado blade, $100
8) squares and levels and tapes, $100
9) Kreg pocket screw set, $100
10) Here is where the wheels come off the bus. My neighbor has a nice planer, and I use it on the face frame lumber. A cheap one is 300 but one as good as Pete's belsaw would set me back a grand easy.
The saw leaves saw marks. If you try to sand those out you will invariably round off the board, and when you jig it together it will have bad gaps and cracks. you can use a jointer, or develop the skill to use a hand plane, or feed it through a good planer after sawing.
11) random orbit sander, $50
12) A whole bunch of little things I can't remember offhand $?
In truth, I cannot justify doing this myself except that I enjoy it and I'm doing some custom things.
If you wanted some really nice cabinets you can measure up and order them built and then get a good finish carpenter to help you hang them.
Tools I am using:
1) Cabinet saw. used, $700. I could do it with a contractor's size saw for less money, but hey, I'm building cabinets.
2) decent sized compressor, $200
3) Narrow crown stapler, $150
4) finish nailer, $100 I don't use it often but some of my shelves are pinned in where you can't see the nail.
5) Miter saw, $100 If it cuts square that is all I need
6) cordless drills and drivers, $200
7) dado blade, $100
8) squares and levels and tapes, $100
9) Kreg pocket screw set, $100
10) Here is where the wheels come off the bus. My neighbor has a nice planer, and I use it on the face frame lumber. A cheap one is 300 but one as good as Pete's belsaw would set me back a grand easy.
The saw leaves saw marks. If you try to sand those out you will invariably round off the board, and when you jig it together it will have bad gaps and cracks. you can use a jointer, or develop the skill to use a hand plane, or feed it through a good planer after sawing.
11) random orbit sander, $50
12) A whole bunch of little things I can't remember offhand $?
- Nov 21, 2001
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Photobucket hosted. How about this link?
http://s810.photobucket.com/user/skyking60/media/remodel%202015/kitchen/round3_zpsvcgbgcu5.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s810.photobucket.com/user/skyking60/media/remodel%202015/kitchen/round3_zpsvcgbgcu5.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
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I got most of the plywood from the local plywood wholesaler. They do sell retail as well.
The maple I get from the cabinet shop that is building the doors, for the most part.
That dark plywood is mahogany veneer prefinished that I found on craigslist for 5 a sheet. SCORE!
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
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The granite is in, and I hung a few doors and made some drawers. I have 13 drawers to build yet.
The round cabinet is covered with bending plywood, then curly maple veneer, and the top and bottom rails are 3/8" bending oak, covered with the same veneer.
The stiles are solid kiln dried hard maple. I wanted them to bend a bit so there was no gap on the sides. I kerf cut the maple to get that little bend.
The insides are a pair of turntables on ball bearings, 40" in diameter. The granite is supported by ash posts on the perimeter and a center 2x2 of ash down through holes in those turntables.
Now we can bring home samples and figure out the backsplash.
The granite company cut windowsills for the room, so that looks finished now.
The round cabinet is covered with bending plywood, then curly maple veneer, and the top and bottom rails are 3/8" bending oak, covered with the same veneer.
The stiles are solid kiln dried hard maple. I wanted them to bend a bit so there was no gap on the sides. I kerf cut the maple to get that little bend.
The insides are a pair of turntables on ball bearings, 40" in diameter. The granite is supported by ash posts on the perimeter and a center 2x2 of ash down through holes in those turntables.
Now we can bring home samples and figure out the backsplash.
The granite company cut windowsills for the room, so that looks finished now.
highland145
Lifer
- Oct 12, 2009
- 43,871
- 6,234
- 136
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
- 146
highland145
Lifer
- Oct 12, 2009
- 43,871
- 6,234
- 136
Stain for the maple? Tried staining a maple cabinet door for the bath....pita getting the stain to take.
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
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Stain is not my friend. After many years of monkeying around with wood, my methods are simple. Want darker wood, buy it darker
It is clear coated with varathane crystal clear water based floor finish. It is cheap ( $48 a gallon at Lowes ), hard as nails, and has no odor. I shoot it on many coats, as it dries fast. Today I will get three coats on in about an hour in this heat.
I used to work for a Cabinet maker in HS during the summer. It was a lot better than flipping burgers, or bagging groceries. It takes a lot of skill to make a circular end cabinet, so props to skyking.
The Cabinet maker I worked for would buy prefab cabinets, and improve on them. Not because he didn't have the skill to build them from the ground up, but because he could make more money doing it that way. He'd take the prefab face frames and doors, and veneer and spray a couple coats of lacquer on them, and rebuild the drawers because the prefab drawers were junk. He'd put quality drawer slides in as well. We'd spray one coat of lacquer, then give it a light sanding, spray it off with air, wipe it off with a damp rag, air dry it, then spray the 2nd coat. This gave the 2nd coat of lacquer a rougher surface to bond to. A 2 coat lacquer finish on white oak or anything darker looks really good. Lighter wood like maple would be better off stained IMO.
If you're using a brush to stain wood, you're doing it all wrong. We'd take rags and dip them in the stain, then spread it out. It got the job done really quickly, and you could put a nice even coat on with no drips, and it would dry quickly. Next time you try to stain anything skyking, try that. The purpose for the rag is it will only leave just enough stain for the wood to absorb, and nothing more. This means no discoloring in spots where the stain is thicker/thinner than average.
The Cabinet maker I worked for would buy prefab cabinets, and improve on them. Not because he didn't have the skill to build them from the ground up, but because he could make more money doing it that way. He'd take the prefab face frames and doors, and veneer and spray a couple coats of lacquer on them, and rebuild the drawers because the prefab drawers were junk. He'd put quality drawer slides in as well. We'd spray one coat of lacquer, then give it a light sanding, spray it off with air, wipe it off with a damp rag, air dry it, then spray the 2nd coat. This gave the 2nd coat of lacquer a rougher surface to bond to. A 2 coat lacquer finish on white oak or anything darker looks really good. Lighter wood like maple would be better off stained IMO.
If you're using a brush to stain wood, you're doing it all wrong. We'd take rags and dip them in the stain, then spread it out. It got the job done really quickly, and you could put a nice even coat on with no drips, and it would dry quickly. Next time you try to stain anything skyking, try that. The purpose for the rag is it will only leave just enough stain for the wood to absorb, and nothing more. This means no discoloring in spots where the stain is thicker/thinner than average.
Last edited:
highland145
Lifer
- Oct 12, 2009
- 43,871
- 6,234
- 136
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
- 146
highland145
Lifer
- Oct 12, 2009
- 43,871
- 6,234
- 136
- Nov 21, 2001
- 22,362
- 5,322
- 146
I wanted to make some display but my wife was concerned about glass at toe level, so I designed a set of doors with a cross mullion and 2/3rds glass on top. I got those done yesterday. Today I will get 4 big drawers on the peninsula and start on the 3 under the sink.
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