That's pretty decent; remember that my own first 45watter maxed out at only 2420, ant that was at 2.0volts; as it is, you're already doing better than that.
Yeah you're right. But I'll tell you what... I am sure glad I didn't buy a regular Desktop 2500+ like I was originally planning!!! AMD made it easy by handpicking the best desktop CPUs and unlocking them for us because you know none of these are actually going into laptops!
I'm definitely getting a nice 35 watt barton now once the prices drop 
. For those that are interested:
http://www.hardware-testdk.com/test_show.asp?id=1021
. For those that are interested:http://www.hardware-testdk.com/test_show.asp?id=1021
they probably won't drop in price very soon, and if they do it'll be like a $10 drop max. By then there'll probably be better chips to buy anywaysOriginally posted by: dejacky
I'm definitely getting a nice 35 watt barton now once the prices drop
http://www.hardware-testdk.com/test_show.asp?id=1021
Zebo
Elite Member
- Jul 29, 2001
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Originally posted by: EddNog
:laugh: This is a good point!
I wonder how people are faring with the Mobile A64s! :Q
-Ed
Not good or I would have one already. Boards are buggy, most boards will not work with it.. 1 or 2 will out of the box and the other 2-3 need some hacked alpha bios. Then none give good Vcore to OC respectably.
There is a thread of sorrows here: http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.cfm?catid=29&threadid=1321894&enterthread=y
Zebo
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Sweet
Don't worry about your temps. It's over reading by 10-20C now that you did the mod earlier I told you earlier. Abits read high in the first place but now with actual contact it's much higher. Just set shutdown for 90C in bios and ignore it. But yes better case, better HSF and/or water cooler would help. The general rough formula is every 10C yeilds about 100mhz on same Vcore. But with the Abit even on water like I am I see 55C sometimes loaded.
As far as voltages...yea... ABIT seems to be slipping on the voltage regulation with these later series of boards, post March boards. Not only you, me x2, and just about everyone I've talked with has low voltages sometimes by as much .1 from the bios!!! Again nothing to worry about as most people should always give CPUz or mobomonitor volatges anyway.
the nf7-s uses the chip temperature, not the diode under the chip for the bios temps. The diode under the chip is for the motherboard's emergency shutdown.
Zebo
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If that's true that would explain A LOT. Is it accurate? seriously doubt it, since I've seen diff temps in identical boards of course TIM's are different each time. I also see variances of 20C in temps using multiple boards with the exact same cooler (termalright AX-7)...NF7, AN35N, MN31N. The NF7 always runs much higher regaudless of which ABIT i tried.
Zebo (as well as anyone else reading this thread); I think you guys may find this article to be most interesting. The main question is if and/or how this pertains to ABIT's K7 boards. Your experience that ABIT reports higher temps than other boards for K7 (with the same cooler) corresponds to my own experience as well, and the results of that article bare relevance to our experiences.
As a matter of fact, just so you guys know, all the temperatures I quoted earlier in this thread so far were all already adjusted by 10C. I've nothing to hide in regards to that; if you want, you can add 10C to my previously stated tempuratures to get an idea of what the reading would be for anyone else who does not know about this anomaly. However, I would like to mention that the PWM and northbridge temp readings make far more sense to me after making the 10C adjustment (i.e. my PWM temps hover around 50 to 60C, and my northbridge, cooled using an MCX-159, around 42C, after 10C adjustment; such readings are far closer to the temps you would find on the same components on non-ABIT boards) to the readings from ABIT EQ/Motherboard Monitor (beta version with uGuru support).
-Ed
As a matter of fact, just so you guys know, all the temperatures I quoted earlier in this thread so far were all already adjusted by 10C. I've nothing to hide in regards to that; if you want, you can add 10C to my previously stated tempuratures to get an idea of what the reading would be for anyone else who does not know about this anomaly. However, I would like to mention that the PWM and northbridge temp readings make far more sense to me after making the 10C adjustment (i.e. my PWM temps hover around 50 to 60C, and my northbridge, cooled using an MCX-159, around 42C, after 10C adjustment; such readings are far closer to the temps you would find on the same components on non-ABIT boards) to the readings from ABIT EQ/Motherboard Monitor (beta version with uGuru support).
-Ed
i read it either in the abit manual or on abit's forums website.. it should be more accurate than the diode..
Zebo
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Very intesting indeed. Add in different bios iterations and I think it's safe to say "Ignore the GD temps." Which I've been doing for a long time now, in general. I buy a top rated HS, set bios for a high temp shut down (75-90) just to be sure my HS is'nt upside down- backwards or something and overclock with prime. Top rated? Both Toms and overclockers.com do a great job in this area, overclockers a little better and covering waterblocks as well.
Which I've been doing for a long time now, in general. I buy a top rated HS, set bios for a high temp shut down (75-90) just to be sure my HS is'nt upside down- backwards or something and overclock with prime. Top rated? Both Toms and overclockers.com do a great job in this area, overclockers a little better and covering waterblocks as well.So Zebo, you're saying the ABIT boards show 20C higher than actual? Did you find that out from a reliable source/experience?
When you made the original suggestion to me about raising the diode to meet the chip, I raised it almost vertical, I'd say about 65 degrees to where I had to push the chip down and lock it in to keep it in place (from popping back up). I just wanted to make sure I got good consistant contact with the underside of the chip. Do you think that could be effecting my temp readings?
When you made the original suggestion to me about raising the diode to meet the chip, I raised it almost vertical, I'd say about 65 degrees to where I had to push the chip down and lock it in to keep it in place (from popping back up). I just wanted to make sure I got good consistant contact with the underside of the chip. Do you think that could be effecting my temp readings?
Zebo
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No according to northface it takes it from on die meaning it should'nt effect temps at all. Raising diode is only so comp does'nt give it's alarm siren which happens at higher Vcores with this board when diode is not touching chip.
As far as temps I don't know what to think. I run water and see 50+C!...this is totally out of line when compared to other boards and people using not as effective air cooling. My shuttle at only 100mhz less only sees 45 max on air. basically I think somethings wrong. Either abit and aMD's on die is correct and everyone else is wrong. Or Abit/AMD reads high. I go with the later.
As far as temps I don't know what to think. I run water and see 50+C!...this is totally out of line when compared to other boards and people using not as effective air cooling. My shuttle at only 100mhz less only sees 45 max on air. basically I think somethings wrong. Either abit and aMD's on die is correct and everyone else is wrong. Or Abit/AMD reads high. I go with the later.
Remember that the diode on the chip does not report a specific temperature to the mainboard! It is just a diode, not a full monitor report; in other words, the motherboard senses what comes off the diode within the chip and then reports it to you! If the mainboard is reporting temperatures, say, 10C high, then all temperatures from all diodes attached to the mainboard will be reporting 10C high. The only difference between the diode in the chip and the diode attached to the mainboard is that the diode is inside the chip, and must connect to the mainboard monitor through pins on the CPU packaging. It is unlike reading your hard drive's S.M.A.R.T. reports, whereby the hard drive has a diode, it takes this reading off the diode and then reports the reading to the mainboard (thus, your S.M.A.R.T. reports will not be under/overreported by the mainboard, if it's off, it's the drive's fault); the chip is not reporting the reading, it is indirectly attaching the diode to the mainboard, and the mainboard is doing the reporting.
However, the on-die diode will always be most accurate; any inaccuracy in a report based on an on-die diode is purely based upon the missreport of the mainboard that translates and reports the reading off the diode.
-Ed
EDIT: Final clarification: your chip's on-board diode does not tell the motherboard, "I'm reading 40C." What it does is it feeds the signal from the diode directly to the mainboard, and then the mainboard says, "this diode appears to be reading 50C." If the CPU actually translated the diode signal into an actual temperature and reported it to the mainboard, life would be so much easier, but that would not work right with the current implementation of SMBUS (thus the reason why S.M.A.R.T. reports aren't routed through the SMBUS, either).
However, the on-die diode will always be most accurate; any inaccuracy in a report based on an on-die diode is purely based upon the missreport of the mainboard that translates and reports the reading off the diode.
-Ed
EDIT: Final clarification: your chip's on-board diode does not tell the motherboard, "I'm reading 40C." What it does is it feeds the signal from the diode directly to the mainboard, and then the mainboard says, "this diode appears to be reading 50C." If the CPU actually translated the diode signal into an actual temperature and reported it to the mainboard, life would be so much easier, but that would not work right with the current implementation of SMBUS (thus the reason why S.M.A.R.T. reports aren't routed through the SMBUS, either).
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