Taiyo Yuden CDR deals, 8/18-8/24

[Mac]

After dinking around with Ahead Nero last night, was able to answer my own question and thought I would pass on the info for others. After selecting the CD-Recorder you want to use, need to select options which brings up a sub set of features. De-select the "smart burn" feature and close. When you select the burner again, other speeds will now be available. After doing this, I was able to do a disk at once on the fly recording of a music CD at the 40X speed setting. The source drive was a trusty 40X Plextor Ultraplex SCSI reader. Copied a 45 minute music CD from start to finish in under 3 minutes flat using Fuji 16X (TY) media. The resulting CD was perfect. Could have copied it faster but selected about 60MB of RAM to use as a buffer which delays the initiation of the burn process.

I am very impressed with the TDK burner and especially Ahead Nero. My only experience has been with standard versions of CD Creator that came with previous burners. I didn't know what I was missing!

 

[lungster]

My $0.02 on TY.
I've never had a problem with a FujiFilm/TY disc. Never. I can't say that for Imation (mostly CMC Magnetics) and I won't even talk about some of the TDK (some Ritek), PNY (?) and Joe's-brand-on-sale-here-and-there-for$0.99. The fact that I can get TY for under $5 per 50-pack (after MIR) makes the decision to use TY a no-brainer. Sure I can save a few $ if I get a cheapie 50-pack (after MIR) but it's just not worth it; especially since it's only $5 (and often less). Value best describes TY blanks.

FWIW, for those who don't know, CDR-Identifier is a nice little applet that tells you the mfg and type of a blank. Do a google search for a download.

 

[randypj]

lordgarth and Siniminister make excellent points that I concur with. lordgarth is one of the few in this thread that have been burning longer than I have. My first was a 2x Ricoh for ~$500. Since then, I've burned with Sony, Yamaha, Plex, Lite-on, Samsung, and some I can't remember. From 2x to 40x.

lordgarth is right on...in the early days, burners were picky about media. Now...they'll burn most any POS.

IME, TY's are the best value. Kodak may be a bit better, but pricier, in general. Mitsui can't be beat....but, unlike a buddy of mine, I won't pay ~50 cents per cd for Mitsui.

I have some Maxells (at least two different manufacturers made them), circa ~'98 or '99.....way back when we could get them for $0, with rebates. And, that's about what they are worth now......nada. And, I bought LOTS of 'em then. A couple thousand.

I have 3 players that I use as my "worst case" players. A POS Bose car player, a cheapo portable, and a Sony juke that isn't certified to play cd-rs or cd-rw. TY, Kodak, and Mitsui will all play in these, and buffer to anti-skip in the portable. Many other brands won't. Many of my Maxells that I recorded back in the '90's won't "lock in" and play on these. Those, I'll have to reburn on TY.

My story, FWIW.
--Randy

 

[tcc2f6]

Originally posted by: bill_n_opus



That's strange. In my experience IDE Drivers can do seriously funny things. When I installed my Plextor it would act funny and sometimes not even be recognized upon boot. The solution was to upgrade my IDE Drivers and that solved the instability. That could possibly be part of the problem especially if you moved around components around from your primary and secondary channels. You never know. But I still find it strange that you get such poor results. Did you try burning a Fuji or TY right after you successfully burned the rw and the generic media? It could be a statistical anomaly. Good luck.

This may be a dumb question but how would I got about updateing my IDE drivers? I've checked driver updates at AOpen's site and sadly they haven't had any driver updates of any kind of the burner. My motherboard is Epox 8k7a and i didn't see any IDE drivers on there either.

again thanks for the help

 

[billandopus]

Originally posted by: tcc2f6

Originally posted by: bill_n_opus



That's strange. In my experience IDE Drivers can do seriously funny things. When I installed my Plextor it would act funny and sometimes not even be recognized upon boot. The solution was to upgrade my IDE Drivers and that solved the instability. That could possibly be part of the problem especially if you moved around components around from your primary and secondary channels. You never know. But I still find it strange that you get such poor results. Did you try burning a Fuji or TY right after you successfully burned the rw and the generic media? It could be a statistical anomaly. Good luck.

This may be a dumb question but how would I got about updateing my IDE drivers? I've checked driver updates at AOpen's site and sadly they haven't had any driver updates of any kind of the burner. My motherboard is Epox 8k7a and i didn't see any IDE drivers on there either.

again thanks for the help

If you don't know something then it's not a dumb question. How would you learn then? Better to learn rather than be dumb or ill-informed I always say.

You've done the right thing by looking for updated drivers. IDE drivers refer to the motherboard just in case you were looking for updated burner drivers. So look at your motherboard mfg'er's website (Epox) and find out if there are any updated IDE Channel drivers there. If not then you may want to try removing your IDE Ata/Atapi Controller under your Device Manager and then reboot and your OS will reinstall them and hopefully that solves your problem of instability.

Good luck.
Otherwise you may be SOL.

 

[tcc2f6]

turned out an ide cable was loose in the back. thanks a lot...wow...tons of frustration now gone...

thanks for all the help

 

[Kelvrick]

I just got back from Best Buys while I was checking up on their 8265's. I saw a huge pile of Memorex 50 packs there. They must have gotten a new shipment during the week.

<== updating monkey dance

 

[Silex]

Hey I know you Kelvrick fool. People don't listen to him, he just runs away every chance he gets .

 

[darkside9923]

Just in case anyone is enterested here is the ty home page in english Showing there different formulas http://www.t-yuden.com/recordablemedia/index.cfm

Also found what looks like a decent site that sells 100 pack of 48X Ty discs for $29 http://www.rima.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=R&Product_Code=1165

There is only 2 reviews at reseller ratings but both were impressed with there service....

Well thats my 2 cents

 

[amitamit]

seatidex,

I just picked up 32024580, the memorex 100 pack from CC.

It says on the label "Made in Tawian"

But you said Nero InfoTool indicated it was TY.

Which one is it?


thanks,
amitamit

 

[rockyct]

TY CDs are made in Japan. They also have a knob that srews on at the top. It's hard to describe but you'll know it when you see it because it is unique. I haven't seen a Memorex 100 pack of TY discs, so they might not even exist. The 100 pack Fuji discs are just 2 50 packs together.

 

[njmodi]

Best Buy has Memorex that are TYs - they have the classic screw-top (black) and even have made in Japan printed on the label - as mentioned in the original post, Best Buy (at least the local one - zip 60532) has both TYs and non-TYs stacked in the front - for 4.99/50pack after rebate.

 

[fendel]

Thanks for posting these tips, I went to BB tonight and picked up a 50-pk of TYs. My local BB (Minneapolis at 494 & Lyndale) had a huge pile of these spindles. You just have to walk past the 30-pks of audio CDRs with the handwritten sign saying "Audio CDRs sound better and are more versatile!" :disgust:

Tomorrow I go check out CC...

 

[Sundog]

Just got a couple...best buy has tons left it seems.

 

[Gilby]

Let me get this straight, Zoiks.

You have no sort of evidence to offer, except that you've burned other disks and are just fine.

Do you try to look stupid? Or does it come naturally?

 

[zoiks]

gee gilby..are you looking crooked so that you cant see straight??
i guess resorting to personal attacks behind your computer is the only way you can manage it...i wonder in real life if you're the same too!
my posts in this topic are based on my experience. I myself have burnt thousands of cdr's and so have my friends. Each one of us uses all sorts of brands of cdr's maxells, Verbatim, TDK, Imation, PNY, Philips etc these are some that i can think of right now that i have bought previously..
I have 10 burners like i said before and i have NEVER had any problems with any major brand cdr with the exception of khypermedia. I do have 8 spindles of Fuji's and i can say that i dont think they are ANY better than the maxell or verbatim or even TDK that i have been using. I cant say anything about Imation since i only have one spindle of it and so far the 15 or so that i have burnt are ok.
Yep! i think i have enough experience to claim this. TY's really arent better in my opinion than any major brand nowadays.
I think the thing behind TY is the hype. Like i said in a previous post, all my cds are holding up fine and i do NOT have any 'data loss'.

Can i get your experience now to tell me why you think TY's are the best thing that happened since slice bread. Or was it really a personal attack that motivated you to post your 'opinion'.

 

[c627627]

Originally posted by: Gilby
Let me get this straight, Zoiks. You have no sort of evidence to offer, except that you've burned other disks and are just fine. Do you try to look stupid? Or does it come naturally?

What Gilby was trying to say Zoiks was, your personal eperience notwithstanding, whole world+dog knows by now that CDRs manufactured by Taiyo Yuden Company Limited are superior to those manufactured in most, if not all, factories in Taiwan.

 

[zoiks]

everybody is entitled to their opinion right? Like i said from my experience, i said that all major brands are good. TY's as i have experienced are just hype.
gilby really needs to keep this in view before he bad mouths people.

 

[logrus9]

Since Kodak has been mentioned several times I wanted to provide a link.

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/corp/store/catalog/Category.jhtml?CATID=6398

I bought the CDs with the jewel cases.

Secondly, I stopped burning coasters after changing DMA to off, others have said it should be on, it might be worth trying.

 

[c627627]

Originally posted by: zoiks
everybody is entitled to their opinion right? Like i said from my experience, i said that all major brands are good. TY's as i have experienced are just hype.

Right, zoiks, right about opinions. As for hype -- here's the thing: Non TY CDRs work fine in my car. On the other hand my brother can ONLY play TYs on his car CD. Is that a reason for me to claim TY's are superior? No.
But thousands of tests were done out there by professionals and all this was reported on many CDR web sites. Those tests convincingly proove TYs superiority over Taiwanese CDRs you had no problems with. To sum up, test results are facts that dispute your claim of TY being just hype.
You can, however, often save money by buying non TYs so hey, if it works for you, who's got the right to tell you what to do?

 

[randypj]

c627627--If your bro' hasn't already, have him use a lens cleaner cd in his car player. This helped my bro's and gf's car players tremendously. My gf's couldn't read any burned cds. After cleaning, it reads most brands.
--Randy