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Taiyo Yuden CDR deals, 8/18-8/24

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is it about who the manufacturers are? or is it about the type of dye that is being used that determines the quality of the cdr media?

I see some ritek / CMC produced cds that use the azo cyanine dye (although majority of disc they produce is pytholcyanine (spelling?)

 
picked up 3 spindals of the memorex's at bb. The japan ones seemed to all have a black cap on them and a slightly different lable with alot of text writeing on it. Got the last 3 out of the collection of stock they had. Not really impressed though, my plex seems to only burn them at a max of 32x, but I guess I cant complain after that spindal of 40x imations that would occasionaly max at 24x. (How ever the plex has yet to make a coaster out of either imation or memorex)

 
Hey, I know this is hot deals, but sicne you guys seem to know what you're talking about I thought I'd ask you guys.

My burner was going great (AOpen 1232A) then I didn't use it for a few weeks, came back to it with a 100 pack of verbatims from Sam's and it burned only 2 of 25 successfully. I returned them, read about the Taiyo Yuden and went to Target and got the Fugi Film. 10 out of 10 bad ones so far. However I burned an old cd-rw and it worked fine and borrowed a cheap generic from a friend and it burned that fine. That makes me think my burner is okay, but not sure if I could really have gotten two bad batches of cd's, is it possible? I uninstalled and reinstalled Nero, still with no luck.

Anythink like this ever happen to any of you guys?
 
Originally posted by: tcc2f6
Hey, I know this is hot deals, but sicne you guys seem to know what you're talking about I thought I'd ask you guys.

My burner was going great (AOpen 1232A) then I didn't use it for a few weeks, came back to it with a 100 pack of verbatims from Sam's and it burned only 2 of 25 successfully. I returned them, read about the Taiyo Yuden and went to Target and got the Fugi Film. 10 out of 10 bad ones so far. However I burned an old cd-rw and it worked fine and borrowed a cheap generic from a friend and it burned that fine. That makes me think my burner is okay, but not sure if I could really have gotten two bad batches of cd's, is it possible? I uninstalled and reinstalled Nero, still with no luck.

Anythink like this ever happen to any of you guys?

No.

I mean, i've never had a coaster in hundreds of burned cdrs that was media-related.

If your recent success rate is 2 of 25 for the verbatims (ritek? cmc mag? mitsubishi chemicals?) and 0 for 10 of the TY Fuji's ... well something is obviously wrong with either your hardware or software setup. I find it highly improbable that you were burning fine until recently and then WHAMO! you're burning crap after. I mean, I find it highly improbable that you encountered two separate batches of media that would elicit such unreliability.

So, I would suspect either changes in your software setup within the last while that may have decreased the stability of your burning program. You never did say what you were using. What kind of burning habits do you have? Do you like to mutlitask while burning? Have you "upgraded" any firmware lately? Have you upgraded any software or hardware lately? Has anyone been fooling around with your burning software settings? Have you subjected your recent media purchases to harsh conditions? Did you try the cdrw RIGHT after you had a media failure with the cdr - both Verbatim and TY?

It's entirely possible that you had a really strange string of bad luck ... anything can happen ... however, what will have a greater chance of happening will probably happen rather than the shot in the dark.
 
I'm using Nero on XP Pro with AOpen 1232A.

I am of the feeling it's hardware/software problem too, but the fact that I have been able to burn a cdrw and a friends generic cd right after (no reboot, nothing else inbetween) with success made me doubt that. My habits are that I let it burn, I don't multitask. My burner has justlink and if I get a bad burn I'll usually reboot and then burn with success. When I get the cd's I bring them straight to my room, no leaving them in the car in the summer heat or anything of the kind.

I take back what I said, i did change one thing, I added a second hard drive. I guess that should be the big light above my head to clue me in but everything else works fine. In fact before i put in the new hard drive I have my one hard drive partitioned, so every drive letter is still the same, and Nero was and still is installed on C. Would something like that really make a big difference (i guess this could be the idiot alert hah)

I even uninstalled/reinstalled Nero to no such luck.
I'm in the middle of a week long Maya course so once this is done I guess I'll try formatting my hard drive to see if that works.

thanks for the response.
 
You added the new harddrive. So then how many harddrives do you have? How many cd drives?

Did you move all your data to the new harddrive and burn to the cd's from there?

Maybe you have both the new harddrive and the burner on the secondary ide? Thats no good...
 
Before I had the new harddrive my setup was:

C: HardDrive
D: Harddrive (I had one hard drive partitioned)
E: DVD-Rom
F: CD Burner

After the new Harddrive

C: HardDrive (I took out the partion)
D: HardDrive (the new one)
E: DVD-Rom
F: CD Burner

Everything basically stayed in the same letter. The only thing on D is my media (ie photos, mp3's, movies, maya files and such) while applications have always stayed on C.

Secondary Idle?
 
Originally posted by: tcc2f6
Before I had the new harddrive my setup was:

C: HardDrive
D: Harddrive (I had one hard drive partitioned)
E: DVD-Rom
F: CD Burner

After the new Harddrive

C: HardDrive (I took out the partion)
D: HardDrive (the new one)
E: DVD-Rom
F: CD Burner

Everything basically stayed in the same letter. The only thing on D is my media (ie photos, mp3's, movies, maya files and such) while applications have always stayed on C.

Secondary Idle?

Hmm... You don't know what IDE is?

Your drive letters don't really matter unless there are applications on them.

Your IDE is composed of 2 sections. The primary and secondary. Each has a master and a slave.

Usually people have theirs as:

Primary Master: HD
Primary Slave: HD
Secondary Master: Cd-drive
Secondary Slave: Cd-drive

You try to keep the Cd-drives on a different channel then the hd's. An easy way to tell is to see if they're on different cables. If they are, then good. If not, that may be your problem.
 
ahh okay, yes IDE I know, just never heard the term secondary idle.

the hard drives are on the same ide while the roms are on a separate, infact when I installed the new harddrive i didn't even touch the one the roms were on.
 
what cpu (model and speed) and what is the rate of your power supply? it might be possible the new hd is sucking more power then the psu can handel.. thus the cdrw is not getting enough power to burn.
 
khypermedia (sp?) are not the same as MediaPro's are they? I hope not as I got 200 of them during that newegg sale... I am only asking because someone said something along that line a few weeks ago.

As for the better cd quality, I am still unconvinced. I have burned with TDK, Sony, Hi-Val, Fuji, PNY, Memorex, Kingpro, and promedia and have had no real problems with any. I do notice that the TY's from TDK and Fuji that I have burn at more consitent speeds and I have never had a coaster (though 3 coasters out of 250+ cd's burned from brands other than TY made is not bad IMO) I am not sure about them lasting, they have made it up to 4 years (time I got my first burner) with little problems. Does anyone have an example of short-lived cd's or any sites that talk about them? I am curious as I have about 530 cd-r's right now and only about 100 of them are TY's. thanks

-spike
 
Originally posted by: Spike
Does anyone have an example of short-lived cd's or any sites that talk about them?

Here's my favorite example. A bit over a year ago I mailed a friend about 15 VideoCDs on Memorex CDRs (CMC). When he received them, they all looked fine (he checked). About 6 months later, he had trouble reading one, then another a couple weeks later. He then rechecked all 15 discs, and only 2 were without corruptions. His hardware had not changed, and the discs were without scratches or scuffs.

I had seen another example on the web, but I can't find it now. However while searching, I did manage to find a couple decent "reviews" of CDR media.

http://www.cdfreaks.com/document.php3?Doc=51

The only point I disagree with in the article is that RITEK are "very high" quality.

Another link, rather technical:

http://cd-rw.org/articles/archive/highspeedmediaerrorrates.cfm

I use a Plextor 40/12/40 and haven't noticed problems burning at 40x. I guess YMMV.


In closing, I've burned thousands of CDs using various Plextor burners, various media, and most importantly I regularly read these discs using various readers. In my practice, Taiyo Yuden discs have been vastly superior in recording, reliability, and the consistent ability to be read at high speeds with no corruptions in data. CMC and Ritek have been extremely inconsistent in all aspects. I do not have enough experience with other major manufacturers to make a call either way.

If your experiences are contrary to mine (and others), use whatever media you like. It's your data, after all.
 
set the CDR-RW drive to the secondary master. MY verbatim (rebadge Lite-ON drive) have cd-burning issue when it was set as a slave (why can't they come up with a better name, master-slave. bleh 😀isgust).


this is how the connection should look like:

primary controller ____ M: HDD 1
|
|__ S: HDD 2


secondary contr ____ M: CD-RW drive
|
|__ S: DVD-ROM drive


hope that helps.
 
as much as it might sound there is a priority issue going on with master and slave, there is not. Slave drives get no more or less priority over master drives.

also an athlon 1.3 shouldnt really stress a 350 watt psu, unless just maybe its not an AMD rated psu?

 
$.26 is a pretty good price, but I'm not sure it compares with all the hot deals lately - especially when you add on shipping. Even before rebates it's common to get a 50CDR spindle for under $15.

ivol07, are those discs branded at all?
 
Forgive me for going OT but with so many "Burning" experts here, hope I can get a little info and help on how to use slower media.

Just installed a new TDK 40X12X48 burner in a brand new PC. Installation of the burner and the Ahead 5.5 SW went fine without a hitch. Only problem is that I still have a lot of 16X Imation and Fuji media from previous hot deals. When I tried to burn, the drive inspected the media and set 16X as the maximum burn speed allowed. I would at least like to try to push the burn speed to see if it will work but don't know how to override. Appreciate any help.

Thanks.
 
They are not branded. Is it better if they are branded?

I have been ordering from this place for a while now. I posted some other deals from them and some other guys a while back for DVD-Rs, so other people might have bought something from them.

 
Originally posted by: Mac
Just installed a new TDK 40X12X48 burner in a brand new PC. Installation of the burner and the Ahead 5.5 SW went fine without a hitch. Only problem is that I still have a lot of 16X Imation and Fuji media from previous hot deals. When I tried to burn, the drive inspected the media and set 16X as the maximum burn speed allowed. I would at least like to try to push the burn speed to see if it will work but don't know how to override. Appreciate any help.
I've never had this problem with my Plextor burners, but I get it all the time on my wife's machine (don't know the burner manufacturer.. it's a "PINE" drive). If anyone has some advice, that would be great. 🙂

 
Originally posted by: tcc2f6
I'm using Nero on XP Pro with AOpen 1232A.

I am of the feeling it's hardware/software problem too, but the fact that I have been able to burn a cdrw and a friends generic cd right after (no reboot, nothing else inbetween) with success made me doubt that. My habits are that I let it burn, I don't multitask. My burner has justlink and if I get a bad burn I'll usually reboot and then burn with success. When I get the cd's I bring them straight to my room, no leaving them in the car in the summer heat or anything of the kind.

I take back what I said, i did change one thing, I added a second hard drive. I guess that should be the big light above my head to clue me in but everything else works fine. In fact before i put in the new hard drive I have my one hard drive partitioned, so every drive letter is still the same, and Nero was and still is installed on C. Would something like that really make a big difference (i guess this could be the idiot alert hah)

I even uninstalled/reinstalled Nero to no such luck.
I'm in the middle of a week long Maya course so once this is done I guess I'll try formatting my hard drive to see if that works.

thanks for the response.


That's strange. In my experience IDE Drivers can do seriously funny things. When I installed my Plextor it would act funny and sometimes not even be recognized upon boot. The solution was to upgrade my IDE Drivers and that solved the instability. That could possibly be part of the problem especially if you moved around components around from your primary and secondary channels. You never know. But I still find it strange that you get such poor results. Did you try burning a Fuji or TY right after you successfully burned the rw and the generic media? It could be a statistical anomaly. Good luck.
 
I'd like to add my 2cents to the TY issue. My first burner was a pinnacle micro 1X that cost me around $4K. At that time blank's were about $35 ea. TY in house brand (That's) and Mitsui discs were the only cd-r's that I would buy based on the fact that if you start burning coasters (no burnproof back then) your business model falls aparts rather quickly. Kodak's were a crap shoot, but they've long since improved their discs. I think that the generic cdr's of lower quality ilk work better now is due to the advances in the writer technology. Long term storage issues aside, most cdr's will burn in most drives. Now that TYs are so cheap in bulk I wouldn't even bother with anything else. Any of the brands that use TY including their own (That's) should be just fine now and years from now, when you are looking for those long forgotten about pictures or mp3s. Also notice that most of the cheaper brands (CMC/Ritek) now seem to forgo the protective layer of plastic on the top of the disc (which was thin enough to begin with). They seem to have the top silk screened layer printed immediately on top of the dye layer. I can scratch the dye layer right off without any effort. Many friends of mine have lost data because they bought these generic disks. I also have some 2x rated Mistui and That's discs from years ago (we bought them by the hundreds to get discounts) that I can burn now at 24x with no problems.

Buy what you're happy with, but if you don't have a favorite I'd recommend any of the TY discs. You won't be sorry.

:LG:
 
lg - thanks for your comment how exactly do you burn at higher speeds? I am using a tdk 12x with nero 5.5. any help would be greatly appreciated!

oh btw, i have 32x TYs, 1x cdrw generic, and everything in between. thanks a bunch!
 
I had the discs unused for quite some time because I never thought to try the older media that was only certified at 4x at any faster speed. I do have a plextor 24x drive and that drive has some sort of built-in lookup table and laser power calibration for media that it knows about. So it may not be running at the full 24X (I've never sat there and timed it), but it's darn close. You're not going to get a 12x drive to burn your 32x discs any faster that 12x if that's what you're asking. If you have slower than 12x discs just try telling nero to burn at 12x and see if they work. YMMV.
 
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