Switching to water!

[smackababy]

Ah, okay. I think I understand that. Thank you.

 

[daw123]

If I was you, I would buy the Danger Den Fat Boy or Bitspower 1/2" OD G1/4 barbs. Then use some 7/16" ID (or 5/8" OD) Masterkleer tubing (because its cheap) with 12-20mm worm clamps to clamp the tubing on to the barbs.

Believe me although it will hurt your fingers tightening the clamps, once they are on, the tubing is not going anywhere and you will not get any leaks. The only problem I found was that when I tightened the clamps, it sometimes loosened the barb from the component it was screwed into. You have to go around all the barbs with a spanner once you are done and make sure that the barbs are screwed tight (I went with half a turn past finger tight). Do not overtighten the barbs when they are screwed into acetal or acrylic components - you may crack the acetal / acrylic.

Also if you are using T-pieces or elbows, I wouldn't buy polypropelene, acetal, etc. (plastic) fittings. Again if you overtighten the worm clamps on to the tubing you may crack/crush the plastic. Spend a bit extra and buy copper or brass fittings. This means you can tighten the worm clamps as much as you like and you will not damage the fitting. Plus I think they look more professional.

Just my $0.02 worth.

 

[smackababy]

Originally posted by: daw123
If I was you, I would buy the Danger Den Fat Boy or Bitspower 1/2" OD G1/4 barbs. Then use some 7/16" ID (or 5/8" OD) Masterkleer tubing (because its cheap) with 12-20mm worm clamps to clamp the tubing on to the barbs.

Believe me although it will hurt your fingers tightening the clamps, once they are on, the tubing is not going anywhere and you will not get any leaks. The only problem I found was that when I tightened the clamps, it sometimes loosened the barb from the component it was screwed into. You have to go around all the barbs with a spanner once you are done and make sure that the barbs are screwed tight (I went with half a turn past finger tight). Do not overtighten the barbs when they are screwed into acetal or acrylic components - you may crack the acetal / acrylic.

Also if you are using T-pieces or elbows, I wouldn't buy polypropelene, acetal, etc. (plastic) fittings. Again if you overtighten the worm clamps on to the tubing you may crack/crush the plastic. Spend a bit extra and buy copper or brass fittings. This means you can tighten the worm clamps as much as you like and you will not damage the fitting. Plus I think they look more professional.

Just my $0.02 worth.

Wow, I hadn't actually thought of over tightening, but I can see how it would be a problem. Good advice. I am still gathering parts, albeit rather slow. I am trying to be overly careful so I don't end up with something not as good.

 

[Gillbot]

If you need T or elbow fittings, get these:
T Fitting: http://www.pexsupply.com/categ...s.asp?cID=339&brandid=
Elbow: http://www.pexsupply.com/categ...s.asp?cID=336&brandid=

They are available in various sized (including 1/2") at any hardware store. Suprisingly, they are ofter cheaper than plastic/nylon as well.

 

[Tweakin]

I'm still mapping out a single 120 TFC just to cool my i7. I think it will produce better results then any air cooler.

 

[smackababy]

new question, yet again!

 

[WoodButcher]

Antec rad?,,,,,, um,,, no.

 

[smackababy]

I didn't see it was aluminum. Lame...

 

[WoodButcher]

It's sad. The idea of a rad for those fans would be great if they were able to develop the static pressure to blow through a rad or heatsink. I think the big fans like those are like the "slipstreams", fine in open air but when directed through cooling fins they stink.

 

[Tweakin]

Originally posted by: WoodButcher
A 2x120 rad will not cool the cpu and vid card.

I disagree...a good 120.2 rad will cool both the cpu and gpu with medium fans and decent shrouds.

 

[Tweakin]

Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
i just started W/Cing too, whats your progress so far? i got my test loop up and running. its been running for 8 hours total so far. can't leave it on 24 hours bc i still dont trust it alone when i leave the house

So what did you end up with?

I have half my parts here and the rest are coming.

 

[smackababy]

I was reading up some more and from what I see the Thermochill 120.2 is better than the Swiftech triple fan rad. Might end up going with one of those, but then I'd have to get a res as well.

 

[LOUISSSSS]

the TC 120.2 is also more expensive than the Swiftech 320...

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: smackababy
I was reading up some more and from what I see the Thermochill 120.2 is better than the Swiftech triple fan rad. Might end up going with one of those, but then I'd have to get a res as well.

with very low piss poor fans possibly..

other then that, a MCR320 will almost keep up with a PA120.3
http://skinneelabs.com/Radiato...les-Compared-main.html

And depending on the video card and your processor, and what other EQ you run, a PA120.2 may not be enough.

 

[smackababy]

Well, I will only have CPU and maybe, after I do my step-up, a GTX295. I am going to go with a dual fan rad and if I end up having to upgrade it later because of adding the GPU, then so be it.

 

[PCTC2]

The Antec 200mm radiator is aluminum. All the other parts you have are copper. Mixing metals is a huge taboo.

 

[daw123]

Originally posted by: smackababy
Well, I will only have CPU and maybe, after I do my step-up, a GTX295. I am going to go with a dual fan rad and if I end up having to upgrade it later because of adding the GPU, then so be it.

@smackababy. If you want to go for a 2x120mm rad for a CPU only loop, then I would personally go for the Swiftech MCR220 ($36 at NewEgg). Very good bang for buck. Or you could cough up an extra $20 for the MCR320 (inc. an extra Yate Loon fan at $3.70 at Jabtech).

Christ the Thermochill PA120.2 is $100 at Jabtech; you can get two MCR320s for that. What a rip off.