Swapping cases without removing CPU cooler?

Imp

Lifer
Feb 8, 2000
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I just finished an i5 750 build 2 weeks ago, and at the time, decided to keep my old case to save a couple bucks. The problem is, because of how non-amazing the 5750 and 5770 are at the $150-$180 range (Canada), I finally decided to splurge on a 5850. However, the HDD drive bay and lack of case depth is going to make it a very difficult fit, if at all. So, time for a new case.

My main question: is it okay or not to leave the CPU and stock cooler on the board when swapping the motherboard from one case to the other?

I'll take off everything else except maybe the RAM. If necessary, I could stick my hand under the board to support it at that point while moving it with a latex glove on. I've never put on thermal paste before nor taken it off, so would like to avoid the hassle if possible.

Also, I wouldn't mind some case suggestions. I don't mind paying $150-ish for something like a P183, but those are complete overkill for me because I don't use more than 1 HDD, , don't overclock, have a single optical drive and will never crossfire/SLI.

Thanks!
 
Apr 17, 2003
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I've done it before. As long as you're careful to support the weight from both the top and bottom of the board, you're fine.
 

Farfrumhumpn

Banned
Nov 22, 2009
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Honestly, keeping the HSF for jobs like this makes it easier as you have an extra point to grab the board by to maneuver it arround.
 

Imp

Lifer
Feb 8, 2000
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Honestly, keeping the HSF for jobs like this makes it easier as you have an extra point to grab the board by to maneuver it arround.

Part of my concern is by having the HSF there, I will probably grab it by that and it might mess up the thermal paste bond between the CPU; on the otherhand, it's hanging in a perependicular position 99% of the time...

Bleh, think I might just splurge on a P182 for the more ample room.
 

WildW

Senior member
Oct 3, 2008
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evilpicard.com
It depends. . . in the past I've often left on the HSF when moving a board to a new case. . . and yes, picked up the whole board by holding the HSF. I just wouldn't do that with an Intel push-pin HSF. Do not like.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
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My main question: is it okay or not to leave the CPU and stock cooler on the board when swapping the motherboard from one case to the other?

I normally mount my air sinks first, and then mount the board inside the case.

So yes, its perfectly fine.

Just please make sure your well grounded.
A static charge now has a lot more area it can zap to get to your cpu.
 

ChorniyVolk

Senior member
Sep 1, 2009
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Er, how do you not know how to apply or remove thermal paste if you just made this build? Didn't you have to apply thermal paste when you install the cpu into your motherboard and then stuck the cooler on?
 

lsv

Golden Member
Dec 18, 2009
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I've swapped builds in the same case multiple times while keeping the HSF on, support the mobo at the socket and while removing and you should be fine.
 

zagood

Diamond Member
Mar 28, 2005
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It's fine, especially since you're using the stock cooler. Once you get into heavier heatsinks it gets a little tricky but still pretty easy.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
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Just PLEASE PLEASE make sure your not in a high static location.

Static kills, ive killed ram chips on mistake by static.

Make sure your grounded or touch a grounding source b4 you handle sensitive eq.

That sink on your cpu is a direct chanel in ZAPING your cpu because u have a large metal conductive surface you can touch thats grounded directly to your cpu!
 

CurseTheSky

Diamond Member
Oct 21, 2006
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Just PLEASE PLEASE make sure your not in a high static location.

Static kills, ive killed ram chips on mistake by static.

Make sure your grounded or touch a grounding source b4 you handle sensitive eq.

That sink on your cpu is a direct chanel in ZAPING your cpu because u have a large metal conductive surface you can touch thats grounded directly to your cpu!

Agreed. Touching a large metal surface (even the case itself before you mount the motherboard) should be sufficient AFTER you stop moving most of your body around (though I use a wrist strap with anything that's crucial or super expensive). Any time you have to get up to go grab something, make sure you ground yourself again before your hands go near that motherboard / mounted heatsink. Also, try to avoid clothing that increases static charge, like nylon jackets / pants or wool sweaters.

You said something about a P182. While I've used mine for quite a while and it has been an excellent case, I feel that there are better selections out there these days. It has plenty of room, but the room is divided into so many different compartments that it can start to feel cramped after a while. The cable management and acoustics are pretty good though (as long as you get some aftermarket fans). I'd at least get a P183 instead.
 

theAnimal

Diamond Member
Mar 18, 2003
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Er, how do you not know how to apply or remove thermal paste if you just made this build? Didn't you have to apply thermal paste when you install the cpu into your motherboard and then stuck the cooler on?

The stock cooler comes with pre-applied paste.
 

Imp

Lifer
Feb 8, 2000
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184
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The stock cooler comes with pre-applied paste.

Yep, my last build, a Socket 939 A64 came with it pre-applied, and the i5 came with it pre-applied. It sounds easy, but all the talk about using a rice grain sized drop and/or a credit card makes me want to avoid it if I can.

I'll probably give it a shot with the HSF attached, keeping a hand under that area while moving. Now, you're not suppose to touch any boards with greasy/sweaty hands, so is a latex glove ok? Or should I just stick my hand in an extra anti-static bag?

Grounding-wise, I usually do these things on a carpet (yep...) or hardwood floor while keeping one arm fixed to the metal case by slightly leaning on it. Nothing's died yet, but that's mainly when I'm just taking out one card or cleaning the case. I build things on a wood floor.

The P182 is on clearance now and $45 cheaper than the P183. Problem is, it's a long drive to the store that has it in stock, so I may just go with the P183. It's better than the SLK1650 I have, which has a nice big open hole on the left side to let noise out, and solid steel side panels to amplify vibration from the optical drives.
 

nyker96

Diamond Member
Apr 19, 2005
5,630
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I've done it without taking off sinks why do you need to take off heatsinks when swap case?
 

Imp

Lifer
Feb 8, 2000
18,828
184
106
Well, I did it. Got a P183 and swapped everything over with the CPU and cooler left in place. Stripped everything, then built it back. It was fun up until I was almost done and went to install the DVD drive.

Everything is fine with the exception of Windows. Got an 'error loading OS' after first boot. This normal with no actual parts changed?

I actually did it twice because I'm retarded and didn't know how to use 5.25" drive rails. I'd like to thank Antec for not including any instructions for the sake of being "green". Never used drive rails before, and I thought the metal lip was suppose to be pointed inwards. I forced it as far as it would go from the front because I thought it was suppose to go in from the back before you put in the mobo. Thus, I took the mobo off, found out I was wrong, tried a few more times, then realized the metal clips were suppose to be pointed forwards. Scraped a lot of paint off the drive bay, but lesson learned...