Sump pump questions

[dullard]

1) We have a sump pump in our house. It decided to run continuously even when there isn't water to pump. What kind of cost are we looking at to have someone come down and fix the ball float or switch or whatever may be broken?

2) The sump pump is rigged to dump into the floor drain. A little google search to find the answer to #1 gave me link after link saying that it is very bad to pump into the floor drain. True or false?

Info: we live pretty much on the top edge of a 10 foot hill, there shouldn't be that much water to pump.

 

[CraigRT]

there really shouldn't be any water to pump... weird

we don't even have a sump pump, and we are not situated on a hill like you...

cost to fix, i have no idea

 

[OulOat]

My parents bought a complete backup sump pump and battery system for $300, with replacement sump pumps costing around $100-$150. So repair should definitely not cost over $100, otherwise you can get a brand new one and install it in a couple hours.

 

[dullard]

Originally posted by: CraigRT
there really shouldn't be any water to pump... weird

Well, I should have said the hill is very small. About 10-15 feet high from top to valley as best I can tell. Makes mowing the lawn interesting as I'm sideways quite a bit.

Originally posted by: OulOat
My parents bought a complete backup sump pump and battery system for $300, with replacement sump pumps costing around $100-$150. So repair should definitely not cost over $100, otherwise you can get a brand new one and install it in a couple hours.

Thanks for the estimates. We bought the house in May and the sellers gave a 1 year warranty with $100 deductible. If it costs less than $100 for a typical repair call, it is cheaper not to call the insurance company. The hole is so smelly I think I'd rather pay for the labor to do the repairs.

 

[Ornery]

Too smelly, eh?

I think I'll become a full time plumber, WTF. Sounds like big bucks to me. Hey, this is a job that can't be exported, and there certainly seems to be no end of work and willing customers... $$$$!

 

[OffTopic1]

good 1/3HP sump pump can be had between $80-$200 USD. Don't bother with the pump repair, because minimum service fee for the pump tech time is around $50 USD ++ the cost of the seal/bearing, impeller, switch & sensor.

Cost for a plumber is depending on the difficulty of access to the pump & your area. It shouldn't be that hard for you to replace the pump yourself, however it can get dirty.

 

[TechnoKid]

umm...hehe free?? pull the fuse or turn the breaker off? that is until you can replace it.

 

[OffTopic1]

Originally posted by: dullard
1) We have a sump pump in our house. It decided to run continuously even when there isn't water to pump. What kind of cost are we looking at to have someone come down and fix the ball float or switch or whatever may be broken?

2) The sump pump is rigged to dump into the floor drain. A little google search to find the answer to #1 gave me link after link saying that it is very bad to pump into the floor drain. True or false?

Info: we live pretty much on the top edge of a 10 foot hill, there shouldn't be that much water to pump.

It can be bad to pump sewage into your floor drain if the drain is only design for gray water drain tile (normal cenario). However some floor drain drain directly to the sewer commonly use in commercial application.

 

[OffTopic1]

Originally posted by: Ornery
Too smelly, eh?

I think I'll become a full time plumber, WTF. Sounds like big bucks to me. Hey, this is a job that can't be exported, and there certainly seems to be no end of work and willing customers... $$$$!

You can declare it is an emergency & double the fee

 

[funboy6942]

If my memory serves me right a sump pump operates like a toilet. there should be a ball that floats ontop of the water and when it rises it turns the pump on and when it falls it turns off the pump. Sounds like the switch is stuck on or broken and I wouldnt think it would cost much if anything at all.

And a sump pump is just taking rain water that is coming into or under the foundation and either pumps it back out side down wards or into your sewer. I dont see why there would be a problem other then if there is a huge rainfall and the sewer backs up your not going to be able to pump the water out of the basment then. Might want to run it outside and down the hill.

 

[dullard]

You making me want to leave it plugged in, let it overheat, and get a brand new pump installed for $100 from insurance. Of course that doesn't sound legal. So to be legal, it will be ~$150 out of pocket for the pump, and what another ~$50 out of pocket to hire a plumber to replace it?

It seems like it would be really costly to run the line outside the house. Digging down to the basement, drilling a hole, running a hose around the house, and filling everything back in. I think I'll risk the floor drain as it was when I bought the house.

 

[OffTopic1]

Originally posted by: dullard
You making me want to leave it plugged in, let it overheat, and get a brand new pump installed for $100 from insurance. Of course that doesn't sound legal. So to be legal, it will be ~$150 out of pocket for the pump, and what another ~$50 out of pocket to hire a plumber to replace it?

It seems like it would be really costly to run the line outside the house. Digging down to the basement, drilling a hole, running a hose around the house, and filling everything back in. I think I'll risk the floor drain as it was when I bought the house.

It should be fine if you are draining only gray water into the floor drain.

 

[dullard]

Originally posted by: OffTopic
It should be fine if you are draining only gray water into the floor drain.

What is the definition of gray water? It appears water can get into the sump pump hole from 3 sources
1) Up from underneath - I'm guessing this is a possibility it may not be.
2) From two ~2" tubes that enter the pump area. I just don't know where these pipes come from. I've tried every water source in and around the house and nothing drains through those pipes. But they have to lead somewhere.

 

[merlocka]

Originally posted by: dullard

Originally posted by: OffTopic
It should be fine if you are draining only gray water into the floor drain.

What is the definition of gray water? It appears water can get into the sump pump hole from 3 sources
1) Up from underneath - I'm guessing this is a possibility it may not be.
2) From two ~2" tubes that enter the pump area. I just don't know where these pipes come from. I've tried every water source in and around the house and nothing drains through those pipes. But they have to lead somewhere.

The foundation has channels which carry the water into the sump. The 2 2" pipes are the inlet. The water enters the foundation channels from below (from pressure) or from the sides (run down).

I'm suprised they didn't flag the sump drain when they inspected the house, but I suppose the codes vary from state to state. It's against code to drain your sump into sewer in my area. I do it anyways, because my neighborhood is flat and I end up re-pumping much of the water. My pump runs much less if I run it into the drain.

As far as the sump pump goes, if the basement is even partially finished, just get a new one. If you've ever seen/smelled a basement that's been flooded, you'll understand.

 

[xSauronx]

Originally posted by: funboy42
If my memory serves me right a sump pump operates like a toilet. there should be a ball that floats ontop of the water and when it rises it turns the pump on and when it falls it turns off the pump. Sounds like the switch is stuck on or broken and I wouldnt think it would cost much if anything at all.

it may be simple enough he could cut the power to it and check himself. a simple adjustment on the arm with the float may be all he needs, or a switch may be easy enough to change himself if he can find a replacement.

if it was me id cut the power and have at it; shouldnt take long to find out whats the problem

 

[Barnaby W. Füi]

Originally posted by: dullard
You making me want to leave it plugged in, let it overheat, and get a brand new pump installed for $100 from insurance. Of course that doesn't sound legal. So to be legal, it will be ~$150 out of pocket for the pump, and what another ~$50 out of pocket to hire a plumber to replace it?

It seems like it would be really costly to run the line outside the house. Digging down to the basement, drilling a hole, running a hose around the house, and filling everything back in. I think I'll risk the floor drain as it was when I bought the house.

I don't know how your house is designed but in the house I grew up in, the pipe came up out of the sump pump, and went out of the top of the basement wall (above the foundation). No digging needed. Later my dad piped it to drain to the sewer, but that was against code iirc.

edit: and I believe those mystery pipes simply go out into the dirt underneath your house. That's the whole point of a sump pump: it takes water from under your house and pumps it somewhere else.

 

[dullard]

Originally posted by: xSauronx
it may be simple enough he could cut the power to it and check himself. a simple adjustment on the arm with the float may be all he needs, or a switch may be easy enough to change himself if he can find a replacement.

if it was me id cut the power and have at it; shouldnt take long to find out whats the problem

Of course I've already cut the power. But does anyone have a link to a decent picture or tutorial that can step me through the thing. The ball just seems floating and I can't see through the water what it is connected to. I'm not at home now, so it is difficult to describe.

 

[Ornery]

"...shouldnt take long to find out whats the problem..."

I'd have the damn thing working ASAP, but it's "too stinky" for dullard.

It's probably corrosion keeping the switch from opening. I'd tear it apart, clean it up, and throw it back in there at zero cost to me, and no trip to the store at all. Of course, I'd have to endure the smell for the few minutes it took to remove it, but I'm so cheap it would be easy to get past that to save a buck or two.

Edit: Lots of diagrams on Google, but each one will be unique.

 

[funboy6942]

Originally posted by: dullard

Originally posted by: xSauronx
it may be simple enough he could cut the power to it and check himself. a simple adjustment on the arm with the float may be all he needs, or a switch may be easy enough to change himself if he can find a replacement.

if it was me id cut the power and have at it; shouldnt take long to find out whats the problem

Of course I've already cut the power. But does anyone have a link to a decent picture or tutorial that can step me through the thing. The ball just seems floating and I can't see through the water what it is connected to. I'm not at home now, so it is difficult to describe.

You need to go to your local rental place and get a water pump and hose so you can pump out the rest of the water so you can see the pump and it is going to be slimy, stinkym and get ready to dive in. As for a pick I cant help you but getting out the rest of the water so you can see everything is going to be a must. imo

 

[OffTopic1]

Originally posted by: Ornery
"...shouldnt take long to find out whats the problem..."

I'd have the damn thing working ASAP, but it's "too stinky" for dullard.

It's probably corrosion keeping the switch from opening. I'd tear it apart, clean it up, and throw it back in there at zero cost to me, and no trip to the store at all. Of course, I'd have to endure the smell for the few minutes it took to remove it, but I'm so cheap it would be easy to get past that to save a buck or two.

Edit: Lots of diagrams on Google, but each one will be unique.

It depends on the pumps, but most sump pumps that I have seen the switch is sealed inside a casing that take a lot of work to break (thermoplastic or expoxy coating aluminium/cast iron). However, reparing the switch can be done and then reseal with a bead of expoxy. If you don't get much water in your area a 1/6HP can be use that can cost less than $100.

Gray water is any water that isn't poluted with sewage or chemical.

Simer 1/4 hp Thermoplastic Submersible Sump Pump @ $59.00 with 8 ft cord (there are other makes that have 20-30 ft cord if you need it).

Simer 1/4 hp Thermoplastic Submersible Sump Pump @ Sears for $79.99.

 

[T2T III]

Originally posted by: dullard
You making me want to leave it plugged in, let it overheat, and get a brand new pump installed for $100 from insurance. Of course that doesn't sound legal. So to be legal, it will be ~$150 out of pocket for the pump, and what another ~$50 out of pocket to hire a plumber to replace it?

It seems like it would be really costly to run the line outside the house. Digging down to the basement, drilling a hole, running a hose around the house, and filling everything back in. I think I'll risk the floor drain as it was when I bought the house.

I think you'll pay a plumber $50 to just drive up in your driveway. From there, the labor will start. Probably $200 - $250 (or maybe more) for the complete install.

Plumbers in my area charge: $140 for labor to replace the faucet inserts for leaky faucets and $45 for the parts - which are only about $17.00. And, that is some of the cheaper plumber's labor that I've heard of. I get plenty of work because my rates are reasonable, though.

 

[OffTopic1]

HandyManUSA -- Sump Pump Q's & A's

DIY Home Repair & Remodeling -- Replacing a Sump Pump

eHow -- How to Replace a Sump Pump

PROJECTS ONLINE: INSTALLING A SUMP PUMP -- Pesdestal sump pump

 

[mobobuff]

Originally posted by: dullard

Originally posted by: OffTopic
It should be fine if you are draining only gray water into the floor drain.

What is the definition of gray water? It appears water can get into the sump pump hole from 3 sources
1) Up from underneath - I'm guessing this is a possibility it may not be.
2) From two ~2" tubes that enter the pump area. I just don't know where these pipes come from. I've tried every water source in and around the house and nothing drains through those pipes. But they have to lead somewhere.

Do you have a washing machine around there? Likely that the drain line is emptying into the sump pump. Same with a water softner, got one of those? They also usually drain into the pump via tubing. Our pump is set up to drain up and out, ultimately draining into the septic tank. Our pump used to have problems with staying on after draining, I just had to reset the float and it stopped staying on (one of those tinker-and-fix things, don't know if it'll work on your end).

 

[Ornery]

Good God, even I wouldn't screw with the stupid thing if I could buy a new one for $59.00. Sheesh.

Great info there OT, thanks!

 

[dullard]

Originally posted by: OffTopic
Gray water is any water that isn't poluted with sewage or chemical.

Simer 1/4 hp Thermoplastic Submersible Sump Pump @ $59.00 with 8 ft cord (there are other makes that have 20-30 ft cord if you need it).

Simer 1/4 hp Thermoplastic Submersible Sump Pump @ Sears for $79.99.

Well I was certainly assuming they'd cost more than that. Makes repair a stupid idea. Thanks.

I'll have to wait for a warm weekend day though to replace it. I swear there is a dead body in there by the smell that came out last time I opened up the cover. Stunk up the whole house for days. Don't know whether that rotting material counts as gray water or not.

Mobobuff: Yes there is a washing machine, but I thought I ran it and didn't see anything draining into it. In fact, the pipes leading to the pump appear to be bone dry and have been dry for a while, but water still comes in from the ground around it. I thought pumping into a septic tank was a no-no as it could overfill the tank.

Anyone know what other things would have a power cord going down the sump pump hole? I see one leading to the pump and another cord is buried in the murky sludge but still plugged into the wall. I'll find out this mistery piece of equipment when I replace the pump.