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Studdering on acceleration on Honda Accord

What the hell is the "ignitor in the distributor"?

From that thread, which, if you bother to read it, tells the solution, I'm going to go with gummed up EGR along with a need for new plugs, new rotor, and new distributor cap if the issue is actually the engine.

Now, it's also possible that the issue is bad alignment or wheel balance. Can't help you with the suspension if that's the underlying issue.

ZV
 
I have read the thread and there is no definitive solution to this. The ignitor is a little rectangular module inside the distributor.
 
Have you washed out your engine bay/driven through water/rain since it's happened? I've gotten a little bit of moisture inside the distributor cap and it's caused symptoms exactly as you've described. It can't evaporate out and can persist for weeks/months.

Also check/clean your battery terminal connections and make sure they're on solid. Also check your ground wires and make sure they're clean/solidly connected as well.

You didn't report if your spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor have been replaced as well. If not it couldn't hurt if it's been awhile.
 
It would not be the coil. Just a module that does the work of old style points to trigger the coil or electronic ignition box. The Mazda rotary had a similar device, mounted on the outside of the distributor. It handled the heavy current to the coils.If his problem is under hard throttle, then yes, fuel filter first, cap / rotor next, then plugs & wires. If this is a carburetor car they usually have a fine mesh filter at the carb fuel inlets. If it plugs up, you will have those symptoms. Had that happen on old rotary with 4 barrel carb.
 
Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
What the hell is the "ignitor in the distributor"?

From that thread, which, if you bother to read it, tells the solution, I'm going to go with gummed up EGR along with a need for new plugs, new rotor, and new distributor cap if the issue is actually the engine.

Now, it's also possible that the issue is bad alignment or wheel balance. Can't help you with the suspension if that's the underlying issue.

ZV

The ignitor is a electrical switch (usually transistor based) which breaks low voltage side of the ignition coil, collapsing the field and inducing the high voltage spike that drives the spark plug. It replaces the old points and condenser system and is much more reliable. However, they do go bad sometimes.
 
could be a bad spot on the throttle position sensor.

the question is.... did the car start doing this after the axle work was done or was it happening before that?

the fact that it doesn't happen in 1st gear leads me to think the problem is in the fuel system but it may also be in the distributor if it has a timing vacuum advance attached to the distributor.

 
I haven't attempted to repair this yet, but these are all the things the other guy tried and it still didn't solve the problem.

Cleaned EGR Ports & Pathways
Adjusted FITV
Cleaned IACV
Cleaned Fuel Injectors & Ports
Cleaned Throttle Body
Replaced Leaky Spark Plug Chamber Seals
Adjusted Valves
Fuel Injector Cleaner (3 fill-ups in a row)
NGK Spark Plugs
Magnacore Spark Plug Wires (Red Ones)
PCV Valve & Grommet
Distributer 'O' Ring
Cap & Rotor
EGR Ports, Pathway, & Valve Cleaning (Round 2)
Transmission Drain & Fill

What's left besides the ignitor and possibly the TPS sensor?
 
Originally posted by: SuperSix
Did you check ALL of the vacuum lines?

Garage post fail, btw.

What Year
Make
Model
Engine
Mileage
Etc

Sorry.

1996 (but this seems to affect 94-97 5-speeds)
Honda
Accord
4-cyl F22B1 Vtec
130,000

 
Originally posted by: Bird222
Originally posted by: SuperSix
Did you check ALL of the vacuum lines?

Garage post fail, btw.

What Year
Make
Model
Engine
Mileage
Etc

Sorry.

1996 (but this seems to affect 94-97 5-speeds)
Honda
Accord
4-cyl F22B1 Vtec
130,000

Based on that:
Ignition module
defective splark plug wire
plugged EGR
vacuum leak
Fuel filter (doubtful)

Most have been mentioned before.

 
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