Stuck wheels

WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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So I'm trying to put new sway bar end links on. A simple job, unless the last place that put your lug nuts on overtightened to hell and back.
Toyota lug nuts, you know, the stupid "capped" ones that deform. After damaging the first one, I borrowed my neighbors impact gun, this was able to remove all but one nut on each rear wheel. Destroying all of them but one in the process. I managed to finally got them off with a breaker bar and 6 foot piece of pipe. Hint for those who run into this, I used a tiny chisel and peeled back those "caps", which reveals a 13/16 (roughly ) bolt, which I again had to use the breaker and pipe on.

My parts didn't arrive until 4:30, so the idea was to just get the car on stands, and the wheels removed. You know, maybe an hour. Took over 6 hours!

Now the issue is, with the lug nuts off, I can not get the tires to budge. Usually they come off with a smack off he palm, or a good kick. I gave up after an hour.

How do I get the damn wheels separated from the disc? What's the trick? Never had this issue before.

Thanks.

Side note, if you break down (brakes) out of town, don't ever go to a Tuffy Muffler! Let 'em grind till you get home.
 

WelshBloke

Lifer
Jan 12, 2005
32,992
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Penetrating oil and a rubber mallet?

I mean the only reason I'm really replying to this is that "Tuffy Muffler" is the best stripper name ever! She sounds like a gal that knows her way around penetrating oil and rubber tools!
 
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Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
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Oil and mallet PLUS time and patience. MAYBE repeat oil after a couple days. Hint with the mallet: do this with wheel rotation unimpeded so you can rotate it while pounding, creating impact forces at many positions around the circumference.

But here's another trick I have used - works often, not always. For any wheel that is frozen on like that, install the lug nuts but leave them ALL backed off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Now go to a place nearby with firm driving surface and little traffic. Drive forward to a modest speed then slam on the brakes HARD. Repeat in reverse. Repeat this several times. Drive home and check. Every time you slam on the brakes this creates a large torque force shock on the wheels that can break the bond between wheel and brake rotor (or drum). But with the lug nuts in place (just slightly loose) the wheel will stay on for safe driving back home at low speed. If necessary, use the rubber mallet again to help.
 
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WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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Oil and mallet PLUS time and patience. MAYBE repeat oil after a couple days. Hint with the mallet: do this with wheel rotation unimpeded so you can rotate it while pounding, creating impact forces at many positions around the circumference.

But here's another trick I have used - works often, not always. For any wheel that is frozen on like that, install the lug nuts but leave them ALL backed off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Now go to a place nearby with firm driving surface and little traffic. Drive forward to a modest speed then slam on the brakes HARD. Repeat in reverse. Repeat this several times. Drive home and check. Every time you slam on the brakes this creates a large torque force shock on the wheels that can break the bond between wheel and brake rotor (or drum). But with the lug nuts in place (just slightly loose) the wheel will stay on for safe driving back home at low speed. If necessary, use the rubber mallet again to help.

I had put penetratingly oil on last night. No go, and I'm hesitant to beat on wheels.

I did find your second method on YouTube. So I gave it a shot, I didn't have to even leave the driveway. Drivers side popped immediately. took about three more tries forward and reverse for the other.

Then had to jack it back up, because I still needed to replace the swat bar links. Took about an hour. The link, which I thought would be the tough part, so rusty, took about 30 m minutes to remove. And the same to put new ones on and torque. So 6 hours to remove wheels, one hour to replace links, but I have no lug nuts, they were all destroyed.
Then a miracle happened, Amazon just delivered the lug nuts a day early. I have never got a package on time. The sway bars were 4 days late!. I'm going out to put on the wheels now.

Thanks.
 

WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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Glad that worked, and you got the whole job done!

So am I. 10-12 hours into what should have been a two hour job, by the time I cleaned everything up.
My biggest fear was that the squeaking would still be there. All of the suspension parts are rusty after 16 years of salted roads, so I was only about 95% sure it was the drivers side link, and not something else.
It's quiet as can be now.

Now for new tires, hoping Discount Tire has no issues, and will mount the other 10 SOLID steel lug nuts I received today. I was going to swap them myself, but just like the rears, my 21mm socket will not fully seat on them.
 

WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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Damn this is getting old. I got new tires today. On the way there, my TPMS light comes on blinking, then solid. I know what that means, bad sensor. Another $70. Oh well.

Wanted to check balance/issues. So I take the car where I can get up to speed, it was 4:30, so I had to go about 15 miles out of town to find an empty road. I take it up to 80 or 90 a couple times, all seems good.

As I'm heading back to town, it's 5:30 by then, I thought I heard a noise once or twice. Figured I was just listening too hard for my sway bar.

I stop at the pharmacy to get a couple scrips, and it's about 6:00 when I leave. Immediately it makes a loud rattling noise at 45+ mph from the front passenger side wheel well, I think, you know how that is.

So as I drive farther it does it constantly. Below 45 mph, not a sound, driving down a rough road, not a sound. Hit a pothole patches, still quiet. But the second I hit 45 mph loud rattling. When I get home I check all four corners of the suspension, pushing up and down, nothing. I had 50 miles on it so I thought I would check the lugs, I did notice they didn't over torque them. The suspect wheel was at about 60 ft. lbs. some a little looser. I think they forgot to torque them down. Other wheels were all about 80, which is fine, I think spec is 76?

Any idea what could cause this? I can't believe it's just coincidence. Could there be something in the tire? If so, why didn't I notice it for 30 miles? I's baffled, and annoyed.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
66,168
14,597
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Damn this is getting old. I got new tires today. On the way there, my TPMS light comes on blinking, then solid. I know what that means, bad sensor. Another $70. Oh well.

Wanted to check balance/issues. So I take the car where I can get up to speed, it was 4:30, so I had to go about 15 miles out of town to find an empty road. I take it up to 80 or 90 a couple times, all seems good.

As I'm heading back to town, it's 5:30 by then, I thought I heard a noise once or twice. Figured I was just listening too hard for my sway bar.

I stop at the pharmacy to get a couple scrips, and it's about 6:00 when I leave. Immediately it makes a loud rattling noise at 45+ mph from the front passenger side wheel well, I think, you know how that is.

So as I drive farther it does it constantly. Below 45 mph, not a sound, driving down a rough road, not a sound. Hit a pothole patches, still quiet. But the second I hit 45 mph loud rattling. When I get home I check all four corners of the suspension, pushing up and down, nothing. I had 50 miles on it so I thought I would check the lugs, I did notice they didn't over torque them. The suspect wheel was at about 60 ft. lbs. some a little looser. I think they forgot to torque them down. Other wheels were all about 80, which is fine, I think spec is 76?

Any idea what could cause this? I can't believe it's just coincidence. Could there be something in the tire? If so, why didn't I notice it for 30 miles? I's baffled, and annoyed.
Your tire shop didn't automatically service the TPMS sensors? That's a standard line item nowadays.
 
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WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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Your tire shop didn't automatically service the TPMS sensors? That's a standard line item nowadays.
Yes, they put a rebuild kit on all, no charge. Looks like this:

But if you have a bad sensor, they do charge for it. No labor.
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
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About that rattle and low torques. It really sounds like the low torques were the cause leading to slightly loose nuts that caused the vibration / wobble of the wheel. If you torqued that one properly (and verified the other three), that problem should have disappeared completely. Did it? If so, I'd call the tire shop and complain so they know someone goofed up!

I am used to having a tire shop (or any service including wheel removal) tell me to come back after 100 Km (60 miles) for a free re-check just in case a nut comes loose a bit. I don't because I do that myself. Yours is an extreme case.
 

WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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About that rattle and low torques. It really sounds like the low torques were the cause leading to slightly loose nuts that caused the vibration / wobble of the wheel. If you torqued that one properly (and verified the other three), that problem should have disappeared completely. Did it? If so, I'd call the tire shop and complain so they know someone goofed up!

I am used to having a tire shop (or any service including wheel removal) tell me to come back after 100 Km (60 miles) for a free re-check just in case a nut comes loose a bit. I don't because I do that myself. Yours is an extreme case.
Yes, first thing I checked when I got home. The wheel is now torqued correctly. I did stop and check if it could be wiggled first. It couldn't.

Still the same issue. As long as I stayed under 45 or so, no noise, not over bumps, not when swerving side to side, not even rail road tracks.

Over 45 a strange rattle, it starts loud, and then quits when I drop speed. Like I said, no issue first 30 miles.
 

Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
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So this is NOT from loose wheel lug nuts. your post dais, "Could there be something in the tire?" I have begun to think there may be a link to the fact that at least one tire pressure sensor unit has failed AFTER the swap. Maybe some part broke off inside the tire? Is it possible to identify the exact unit that has failed? Is it on that noisy wheel?
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
66,168
14,597
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So this is NOT from loose wheel lug nuts. your post dais, "Could there be something in the tire?" I have begun to think there may be a link to the fact that at least one tire pressure sensor unit has failed AFTER the swap. Maybe some part broke off inside the tire? Is it possible to identify the exact unit that has failed? Is it on that noisy wheel?

Surprisingly, if the sensor mount failed or broke, the sensor itself might still broadcast its signal to the system and not throw a “low air pressure” warning.

As for the stuck wheels problem…now that you have them off, clean the mounting surfaces of the hub and wheel with a wire brush…apply a THIN layer of anti-seize to the mounting surfaces of the hub.
 
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Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
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An amendment.
I fully agree with cleaning the mating surfaces before re-installing any wheel. those include: outer surface of disk rotor, inner and outer faces of the wheel. I also make sure the studs and bolts are clean so they thread on easily - that ensures you can set the torque correctly.

O used to use a thin application of a high-temp anti-seize on those surfaces to ensure they come off easily later. I stopped doing that some years ago because I found they wee NOT coming off easily after being in place for months to years. NOTHING on those surfaces after thorough cleaning with a wire brush wheel on a drill. Since that change I find the wheels DO come off easily later.

A tiny tale of why I do this cleaning. Once many years ago after some wheel work by a shop I found a significant vibration / shimmy on a wheel over about 40 mph, getting worse as speed went up. I suspected there was dirt or a tiny pebble behind one wheel so took all off, cleaned, and re-installed. Problem gone completely, even though I had not SEEN any such pebble. One wheel apparent;y was not on "straight' and hence wobbled at speed.
 

WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
2,873
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So this is NOT from loose wheel lug nuts. your post dais, "Could there be something in the tire?" I have begun to think there may be a link to the fact that at least one tire pressure sensor unit has failed AFTER the swap. Maybe some part broke off inside the tire? Is it possible to identify the exact unit that has failed? Is it on that noisy wheel?
Went to Discount Tire this morning, couldn't sleep, so I got up at 6am, and just arrived as they opened at 8. Before I left, I also made a 10:00 appointment with a suspension shop here. It was a a rear tire that the TPMS failed on.

I really didn't think it was the TPMS. because then you would hear it at all speeds, probably more at slow speeds, as it would keep falling against the rim. And at high speed centrifugal force would make it spin with the tire, I would think. And It wasn't that, they went for a test drive with me. With him in the passenger seat, he said it sounded like the other side. We swapped and I let him drive. Sounded to me like it was still the passenger side.
So he tells me I have a bad strut on the drivers side. Tells me to feel the nut on the top mount, because it's moving, while pushing the front up and down. It wasn't moving AT ALL, one of his coworkers agrees with me. This pisses him off? Oh well. He slams the hood, says can't help you, we don't do suspensions! OK dick, I knew that.
The coworker, much nicer, says I'm going to rotate the tires. Drive the car, and see if the sound moves location. If it does, I'll replace all four tires, no idea which it would be. Very reasonable. But it didn't change a thing.

I go to the suspension shop an hour early, it's a subsidiary of the local Toyota, Nissan, VW, Audi, Subaru, Cadillac dealer. Which I didn't know, and there is a $160 diagnostic fee, no matter what, and it does not apply to the repair. Glad he didn't mention that on the phone, I probably would not have went there. Pulled my car in immediately. https://www.brakeandalignmentplus.com/

Well a really nice mechanic there goes for a test drive with me, I let him drive. The sound starts right at 45 mph, like a tack hammer hitting something rapidly (his description), he'd never heard anything like it (me either). He says it sounds like it's in the back, or under the console. Tells me to drive, he'll ride in the back seat. He says it's coming from the hump between the seats, he can feel it with his hand, something is hitting the floor.
Puts it on the lift, and there is a small heat shield, maybe 10" long.
One bolt in front was rotted through, two more in back, and it's solid aluminum, not the normal little dimpled thin ones, So it didn't rattle on the pipe, it just hung in the air. It had an upward curve at the front, so the wind would catch it, and make it go up, and tap the floor, loudly. When he rapidly pushed it against the floor, it was the identical sound. One rear bolt was rotted through, the other about half way there. I said just take it off, but he wanted to put bigger washers on. Liability?

He also replaced a missing push pin fastener on the front splash guard, been that way for years, every time I'd put a new one on, it would fall off in a week. He put a much fatter GM one on, one piece design, said it'll break if I take it off.

Another test drive, and the car is SILENT. Still paranoid after all this, I had it up to 90 -100 mph a couple times on the way home, went down bumpy roads, took a curvy road, 25 miles and not a sound.

Weird part is, I thought I had already lost ALL the heat shields on this car. 4 of them, one over the catalytic converter, one over the resonator, and one passing the gas tank, those were all gone starting 8 - 10 years ago. I patched the first couple with bigger washers, but it only lasts a couple years, galvanic corrosion. The 4th, the muffler shield only lost the bolt at the rear, easy to reach. So that one I repaired with a 1" washer, then a 2" washer, and finally with a 5" piece of scrap. metal. Couple years for each When a front bolt, that you can't get to without dropping the muffler went through, I tore it off last year. Why do they even install aluminum shields, they have never lasted on any car I've owned. Car engineers have never heard of galvanic corrosion?

I searched every parts diagram I could find this afternoon, and they all only show the 4 I already lost. No fifth shield. Even the mechanic was puzzled, because it's 5" or so from the exhaust pipe, and he'd never seen a thick one like this. It's tucked up so high you'd never see it, without a lift.

He also wanted to check the lugs when I told him about the prior day. I watched the guy at discount set each one to 80 lbs. by hand. But I never saw any bolt move... He set his wrench to 85, none of them moved, then 90, none of them moved. He backed one off, said it was about 95 lbs. He set them all to 90. That's OK, they are steel now, I'll be able to get them off. No one ever believes the Toyota spec is 76 lbs., except the dealer. He said if I stop back in, he'll re-check.

Since they are not conical, not sure why they would even need it:
https://tinyurl.com/Lug-Nuts but I'll check again, think I'll order a new torque wench too.

Here's the best part, he says it only took 30 minutes total, he'll talk to the manager about the $160 fee, seems too high for a few washers to him. The manger says he is going to cut it in half to $80. Then says, lets just make it $45 + $5 shop supplies. $50.30 with tax, will that be okay? I said that's fantastic, thank you.
I expected $160 diagnostic, $120 for the alignment, plus some expensive suspension parts. I was hoping it would be no more than $800 to $1000!

Pro tip, whenever I get my car serviced, I put in my Toyota rubber winter floor mats in, just in case. I don't have any for the rear seat, I don't think anyone has ever ridden in the rear, ever.

He did have grease on one of his boots, got a big stain on the virgin mat, and a few toe marks on the back of the left front seat, not sure why he didn't have me move the passenger seat all the way up, he was a big guy with big feet. I can't fit back there with the seats back. But I didn't think of it either. He used some brake cleaner on the mat, said it would be good as new when it dried, it didn't. So I spent an hour with Shout and a garden hose, the mat is good as new, probably take a week to dry though. The marks on the back of the seat, and door panel wiped right off with Shout too. Well worth it for over a $100 off.

Out of shear paranoia, I did just take it for another 15 mile drive, at speed, and bumps. Silent. And very smooth with the Arizonian (Cooper) tires. First time I ever bought a store brand, but at 1500 to 2000 miles year, I'll be pitching them from dry rot long before the tread wears out.

Sorry for the novel!

Thanks again for all suggestions. If it hadn't sounded so bad, possibly dangerous, I'm sure it would have fallen off by itself shortly. Oh well.
 
Last edited:

WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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An amendment.
I fully agree with cleaning the mating surfaces before re-installing any wheel. those include: outer surface of disk rotor, inner and outer faces of the wheel. I also make sure the studs and bolts are clean so they thread on easily - that ensures you can set the torque correctly.

O used to use a thin application of a high-temp anti-seize on those surfaces to ensure they come off easily later. I stopped doing that some years ago because I found they wee NOT coming off easily after being in place for months to years. NOTHING on those surfaces after thorough cleaning with a wire brush wheel on a drill. Since that change I find the wheels DO come off easily later.

A tiny tale of why I do this cleaning. Once many years ago after some wheel work by a shop I found a significant vibration / shimmy on a wheel over about 40 mph, getting worse as speed went up. I suspected there was dirt or a tiny pebble behind one wheel so took all off, cleaned, and re-installed. Problem gone completely, even though I had not SEEN any such pebble. One wheel apparent;y was not on "straight' and hence wobbled at speed.

Discount Tire did an excellent job with a wire wheel on all the drums and the back of the wheels. Much better than I had done on the rear with my wire brush. I've always had very good service from them, the "strut" guy today was the first time anyone has ever been rude.

I once bought a set of 90,000 mile Pirelli P4's for my previous Mazda, but after a year, they started to develop flat spots every time I parked the car for a weekend or more, in a garage even. And my 7 mile commute would take a couple days to eliminate them. Very noisy and it kept getting worse, so 3 years old, and 26,000 miles later, I went in to exchange them for some Yokohama Avid Touring model.

He was amazed I wanted to turn in tires that still had 8/32's tread left. When I told him why, he says let me see what I can do. He said he would give me a full refund, but wouldn't let me have new tires for free with a $20 refund.. The Yokohamas were like $5 less each, and he said if you just buy the certs, he would exchange them. With the $20 credit, I think I was out the door for like $40, with certs. You just can't beat that!

I had planned to pay full price.
 

Paperdoc

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Aug 17, 2006
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Thanks for all that. Cause was not obvious, but good detective work found it. It did help, though, that some more likely causes had been eliminated first. This illustrates that a broader exploration is needed sometimes.
 

WilliamM2

Platinum Member
Jun 14, 2012
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Thanks for all that. Cause was not obvious, but good detective work found it. It did help, though, that some more likely causes had been eliminated first. This illustrates that a broader exploration is needed sometimes.

Yeah, should have found it myself, but it wasn't hanging down like they usually do. If you've ever had one come loose, they usually rattle lightly, any time the engine is running. And they don't hammer the floor. That, and I "knew" all of mine were already gone. Can't find this one on any parts diagram from Toyota.

I also found out, that if you drive 40 mph (in a 45) during morning rush hour, you really piss people off! And you know that all the real jerks horns work.