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Stuck Accelerator!

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That's why it's always better to drive manual 🙂
Then whenever this happens, all you have to do is press the clutch.
 
Power brakes have a vacuum accumulator that is generally good to provide assist for two pressings of the pedal with the engine off. You do NOT want to turn the key off though because this will lock the steering column and you won't be able to turn the wheel.

Honestly, the safest thing is exactly what you did.

ZV
 
Originally posted by: OrganizedChaos
Originally posted by: Cdubneeddeal
Originally posted by: Toastedlightly
I would have just turned the car off while in gear. You would have still had power steering and power brakes (you still have vacuum in the intake), although you'd slow down fast you'd have complete control. Had to do this in an 84 cutlass.

And lock the car up? Like it was said before..put in neutral, steer off the road while braking, then turn the car off.

do they really make vehicles that don't have a just plain 'off' not locked positon on the ignition? my ignition goes ACC>LOCK>OFF>ON>START

that is messed up. it should be OFF > ACC > ON > START
 
I had that happen to me too.
Fortunately, I just stomped on the brakes until I could bring the car close to a stop, and then I killed the ignition.
 
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: OrganizedChaos
Originally posted by: Cdubneeddeal
Originally posted by: Toastedlightly
I would have just turned the car off while in gear. You would have still had power steering and power brakes (you still have vacuum in the intake), although you'd slow down fast you'd have complete control. Had to do this in an 84 cutlass.

And lock the car up? Like it was said before..put in neutral, steer off the road while braking, then turn the car off.

do they really make vehicles that don't have a just plain 'off' not locked positon on the ignition? my ignition goes ACC>LOCK>OFF>ON>START

that is messed up. it should be OFF > ACC > ON > START

No... many American cars have ACC before OFF.
 
Put it in neutral (or drop the clutch if M/T).

Best not to turn the engine off while moving - the engine provides power assistance for brakes and steering. Driving without either could be a shock if you aren't used to it and expecting it. (You should get about 3 or 4 brake pedal pushes with the engine stops before the stored vacuum runs out).

Running the engine at redline for a bit is unlikely to do it any significant damage - better to keep full control of your vehicle in a stressful situation. (In some places a routine emissions inspection requires running the engine at the rev-limiter for a few seconds).

Of course, some engine faults (e.g. overheating a diesel engine) can mean that you can't turn the engine off. In that case you don't have a choice except to drop into neutral and stop.
 
Originally posted by: CadetLee

I knew someone who had a piece of cheesecloth over the throttlebody rather than an intake assembly...one day it came loose and jammed the butterfly open.. :Q

No wreck, fortunately - but stuck throttle in a Prelude in traffic isn't the best thing around..

yikes. I had a sock over my intake tubing a while back while I was waiting for my K&N cone to come in the mail. :Q It didn't get sucked in even with the supercharger. I did however use a metal clamp to keep the sock from moving.
 
Originally posted by: radioouman
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: OrganizedChaos
Originally posted by: Cdubneeddeal
Originally posted by: Toastedlightly
I would have just turned the car off while in gear. You would have still had power steering and power brakes (you still have vacuum in the intake), although you'd slow down fast you'd have complete control. Had to do this in an 84 cutlass.

And lock the car up? Like it was said before..put in neutral, steer off the road while braking, then turn the car off.

do they really make vehicles that don't have a just plain 'off' not locked positon on the ignition? my ignition goes ACC>LOCK>OFF>ON>START

that is messed up. it should be OFF > ACC > ON > START

No... many American cars have ACC before OFF.

that doesn't make any sense. 😕
 
It depends on the situation. If necessary, I would turn it off and slam the parking brake. If it is some deserted road, there are more options.
 
I would kill the engine but keep the keys in the ignition so not to lock the wheel and also keep the transmission in Drive, if it's auto, or in gear if it was manual. The transmission would great help the slowing down process.
 
I would kill the engine but keep the keys in the ignition so not to lock the wheel and also keep the transmission in Drive, if it's auto, or in gear if it was manual. The transmission would great help the slowing down process.

Turning the ignition off in an auto may cause it to drop to neutral - so no engine braking for you, no power steering, and no lubrication for your transmission.

(Just a guess though - I've not tried this.)
 
Originally posted by: Mark R
I would kill the engine but keep the keys in the ignition so not to lock the wheel and also keep the transmission in Drive, if it's auto, or in gear if it was manual. The transmission would great help the slowing down process.

Turning the ignition off in an auto may cause it to drop to neutral - so no engine braking for you, no power steering, and no lubrication for your transmission.

(Just a guess though - I've not tried this.)

My main concern would be my safety, not the life of the transmission.
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82

My main concern would be my safety, not the life of the transmission.

Thankfully, your attitude is different to some of the previous posters.

As I'm sure you gathered, my main point was that turning off the engine would be more dangerous than simply selecting neutral.
 
Originally posted by: ultimatebob
Originally posted by: quakefiend420
what kind of car?

It's a 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro. I think that I'll keep my mouth shut the next time someone starts an Audi quality bashing thread, although this is the first mechanical problem that I've ever had with the car in 65,000 miles 🙁

Plus the car isn't under warranty anymore. Hell, after getting the repair bill for this, I might have just wished that I wrecked it 🙂

Even after a near-death experience, you are trying to defend your car. Cars are SUPPOSED to go 65,000 miles without a problem. You praising your car for that accomplishment is like a parent congratulating her kid for going to school. That's the way it's supposed to happen!
 
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: radioouman
Originally posted by: Shawn
Originally posted by: OrganizedChaos
Originally posted by: Cdubneeddeal
Originally posted by: Toastedlightly
I would have just turned the car off while in gear. You would have still had power steering and power brakes (you still have vacuum in the intake), although you'd slow down fast you'd have complete control. Had to do this in an 84 cutlass.

And lock the car up? Like it was said before..put in neutral, steer off the road while braking, then turn the car off.

do they really make vehicles that don't have a just plain 'off' not locked positon on the ignition? my ignition goes ACC>LOCK>OFF>ON>START

that is messed up. it should be OFF > ACC > ON > START

No... many American cars have ACC before OFF.

that doesn't make any sense. 😕

why dosen't it make any sense? you get into your car and you just want the radio/windows or whatnot. you turn the key backwards 1 click from the lock position. you want to star the car you move the key forward to the off position, then to the on position then to the start position to crank the engine.

if imports don't have an "OFF" position how do you 4 wheel down tow them without draining the battery?
 
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Originally posted by: Mark R
I would kill the engine but keep the keys in the ignition so not to lock the wheel and also keep the transmission in Drive, if it's auto, or in gear if it was manual. The transmission would great help the slowing down process.

Turning the ignition off in an auto may cause it to drop to neutral - so no engine braking for you, no power steering, and no lubrication for your transmission.

(Just a guess though - I've not tried this.)

My main concern would be my safety, not the life of the transmission.

Yeah no ******. Hell, if it came down to it I would throw the damn thing into park if I had to and throw on the e-break. Screw the car, its my life.
 
Transmission trouble unlikely for that short period without the front pump turning....and steering/braking still definitely usable without engine running. I'd shut off ignition w trans in gear, most modern ignition interlocks will not allow key to be removed in gear (hence locking steering column....BUT placing in neutral first, key MIGHT be able to be turned too far, LOCKING the cloumn. not good, and you'd freak trying to turn the key back on to unlock steering column)

Main reason to just shut off engine, one action is faster than doing neutral then turning eng off. There is also the risk if engine over-revs fully unloaded i neutral, it "migh" grenade, oiling down the road, locking up the drivetrain, starting a fire etc. Simply shutting off ign is faster, and I think safer. Again, steering without power assist is still safe, and brakes also work but simply require more effort. Even leaving the engine running, sufficient brake pressure "SHOULD" still slow down the car, but certainly not as quickly as no power. However, I wouldnt try that w a 500 hp supercharged 454!!

Most modern cars dont even use a old style direct throttle cable, instead being fully electronic "drive by wire". Most FI much less likely to stick throttle, but not to say it couldnt happen.
 
Key Off, Neutral, wait 2-3 seconds (engine to 0), key on (prevents steering lock), steer it and clear it off the highway. Brake/steer carefully as you are now without power steering and power brake assist.
 
Originally posted by: Goosemaster
Originally posted by: LoKe
Killing the ignition would have been my first thought, but I suppose when you're in that situation, forced to make a decision, you did the right thing.

problem with that is that it kills the power steering and some people might think the steering wheel is stuck and not even bother forcing it to turn...

...except that at any speed that this would happen the steering wheel is easy to turn even WITHOUT power steering....you know...since you're moving and everything
 
I had that happen once to me while driving and my father and brother were in the car and started screaming at me. Talk about a suck situation. I ended up ruining the tranmission(awful hard to think straight when 2 grown men are shrieking like little girls at you) but luckily the car was under warranty and they replaced it for free.
 
Originally posted by: sygyzy
Originally posted by: ultimatebob
Originally posted by: quakefiend420
what kind of car?

It's a 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro. I think that I'll keep my mouth shut the next time someone starts an Audi quality bashing thread, although this is the first mechanical problem that I've ever had with the car in 65,000 miles 🙁

Plus the car isn't under warranty anymore. Hell, after getting the repair bill for this, I might have just wished that I wrecked it 🙂

Even after a near-death experience, you are trying to defend your car. Cars are SUPPOSED to go 65,000 miles without a problem. You praising your car for that accomplishment is like a parent congratulating her kid for going to school. That's the way it's supposed to happen!

I wouldn't say it was a "near death" experience, but I did get pretty damn close to wrecking into a guardrail or a tree.

Besides, as scary as this was, this car is STILL much safer than my old Mercury Cougar. That car had no traction in the snow, and had an interesting safety defect that caused the doors to potentially open at high speed. They eventually issued a recall on that one, but not before having it happen to me once when I was driving home from college. It damaged the door latch when it happened, too, so I ended up having the wrap the seat belt around the door handle to keep it closed on the way to the local Ford dealer :disgust:

Anyway... The dealer is working on the car now. I didn't catch all the details when they called, but it sounds like the gas pedal position sensor malfunctioned, which caused a "software fault" that caused the engine to get stuck at full throttle. It's not an expensive part to replace, but it sounds like the total repair bill will be around $350 with labor. I'm also planning on submitting a defect report to the NHTSA, so they can look into this problem as well and hopefully issue a recall if it becomes common.
 
Originally posted by: ultimatebob
Originally posted by: sygyzy
Originally posted by: ultimatebob
Originally posted by: quakefiend420
what kind of car?

It's a 2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro. I think that I'll keep my mouth shut the next time someone starts an Audi quality bashing thread, although this is the first mechanical problem that I've ever had with the car in 65,000 miles 🙁

Plus the car isn't under warranty anymore. Hell, after getting the repair bill for this, I might have just wished that I wrecked it 🙂

Even after a near-death experience, you are trying to defend your car. Cars are SUPPOSED to go 65,000 miles without a problem. You praising your car for that accomplishment is like a parent congratulating her kid for going to school. That's the way it's supposed to happen!

I wouldn't say it was a "near death" experience, but I did get pretty damn close to wrecking into a guardrail or a tree.

Besides, as scary as this was, this car is STILL much safer than my old Mercury Cougar. That car had no traction in the snow, and had an interesting safety defect that caused the doors to potentially open at high speed. They eventually issued a recall on that one, but not before having it happen to me once when I was driving home from college. It damaged the door latch when it happened, too, so I ended up having the wrap the seat belt around the door handle to keep it closed on the way to the local Ford dealer :disgust:

Anyway... The dealer is working on the car now. I didn't catch all the details when they called, but it sounds like the gas pedal position sensor malfunctioned, which caused a "software fault" that caused the engine to get stuck at full throttle. It's not an expensive part to replace, but it sounds like the total repair bill will be around $350 with labor. I'm also planning on submitting a defect report to the NHTSA, so they can look into this problem as well and hopefully issue a recall if it becomes common.

ohhh sounds like someone is driving one of those fancy new drive by wire cars.

yeah i'm all set with that crap..
 
Originally posted by: Zim Hosein
Throw it into neutral and then kill the ignition IMO 🙂

and restart to see if throttle is still stuck....if not throw back into drive and be on your way
 
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