Originally posted by: DasFox
Ok so if everyone is saying a DOT in the middle is the best way, then how big is this dot suppose to be, I mean looks like we're saying use your best judgement on this.
And how would you really know that dot is going to spread out all over the entire thing covering every area of it.
The key is not that it covers every square millimeter of it. The key is the thinnest junction between the die in the middle and the large mass of metal above it (the heatsink).
Heat radiates outward from (close enough to, for the purpose of this discussion) dead-center. Trying to promote maximum interface between the edges of a heat spreader and 'sink, ultimately results in excess compound being applied, because even though the CPU spreader and 'sink "look" very flat, they're not perfect. You ideally want the shortest, best conductive path to the heatsink fins so the air cools them. This path is directly upwards, so the best interface only allows the least possible thermal compound in the middle.
That doesn't necessarily mean you don't want the compound to spread towards the edges, but not at the cost of having too much in the middle or just as bad, air pockets do to aforementioned issue of the mating surfaces not being perfectly flat, parallel mating together.
I personally have been using AS5 spreading it with a plastic card for the past 6 years with no problems ever. This way I know the entire core is covered in a thin layer.
There are a lot of ways it can be applied and keep "Most" CPUs, video GPU, etc, cool enough. Even putting half a tube of AS on it, after enough time the heatsink retention force would squeeze most of it out, but ultimately it's not quite as thin in the middle unless you happened upon a (random and typically uncommon) heatsink that was convex in exact center over the CPU die. Carefully spreading is usually better than gross overapplication, but it doesn't account for unflat surfaces, especially if spread very thin.
I have seen to many dots like those made for a HSF in a video card, north and south bridge chip on a motherboard leave so much of the surface not covered to make me trust this method, UNLESS you practice it over and over to see what it takes to make it work right.
Sure, practice if it makes you comfortable, though a low-enough temp is evidence enough, one need not try for some ultimate record-breaking low temp as a couple degrees either way should never be a factor, system isn't set up right if it's that close to instability or thermal throttling, etc. Even so, the whole thread was about some ideal, so there it is... a target application method.
Now granted the CPU core is alot smaller, but I want to make sure it's completely covered.
Take some (pre-flipchip) GPUs for example, one does not want the compound to cover the whole thing if it has a metal heat-spreader in the middle. The outer edges of those chips, the black epoxy casing, was rasied higher than the center. Mad overclockers (I plead guilty) sometimes even took sandpaper to those chips and sanded down the epoxy just to have the center spreader level with the border to further decrease amount of compound necessary to fill any (then vastly reduced) voids. If the epoxy casing had thermal compound on it too (unsanded, as shipped) the 'sink would just sit that much further (thickness of compound on edges) away from the center of the chip, while the epoxy casing is a relatively terrible heat conductor.
Granted, it's not quite the same as on a flipchip with an entirely metal spreader, but even when temps look good, there can be differences in temp at different points on the core. For example, I was troubleshooting an Athlon XP2000 box, CPU temps weren't alarmingly high but there was instability. After removing heatsink I saw degraded silicone based compound that had dried up and left small islands between the CPU and 'sink.
Apparently the region with the thermal diode in it was still sheding heat being near an island but other areas weren't. After reappling a synthetic based compound, CPU was then stable at even higher temps than it had registered previously (how so, why higher temp? Recall that I'm a mad overclocker... had to see what it'd do. Returning to stock speed it was only 5C cooler, IOW, 49C before, 44C after @ stock, and stable at 55C o'c (loaded not idle temps)). Lesson here- you may have same temp report in two different heatsink interface scenarios but that doesn't necessarily mean ALL regions of the CPU are equally cool (enough) in both.