I got speedfan 4 days ago and took a picture.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/926709/SpeedFan.jpg
Is my computer healthy?
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/926709/SpeedFan.jpg
Is my computer healthy?
SpeedFan
- Thread starter FallenKaiser
- Start date
JBDan
Platinum Member
- Dec 7, 2004
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Looks good to me. You can ignore the 16C and I have found SF to be inaccurate on the +12V figures. Mine says 11.37, but in BIOS, everest, sandra, probe, etc... they all say 11.97 on the +12V. You can also name your temps as I did by using F2...ie>Temp 1 I named cpuTemp>Temp2 I named moboTemp etc.... http://img307.imageshack.us/img307/9467/untitled1ty.png
JBDan
Platinum Member
- Dec 7, 2004
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Originally posted by: johnnqq
he was checking his temps for overclock or whatever...the multi is on 4
OP was asking about his fans and his Voltages. IDK what he is running so his temps mean very little until he posts whats in his rig. And sorry, but WELCOME Fallen Kiser to the forums!
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
- 16,683
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It isn't that I don't believe other posters were wrong; I just don't "know" that they are right.
All monitoring programs display discrepancies under the OS. But with SpeedFan, I've never noticed a departure from the BIOS "Hardware Monitor" on rail voltages. I've noticed discrepancies with the VCORE, and there are specific reasons why the BIOS temperatures are higher than those in application software. I've never seen discrepancies between BIOS +12V, +5V and +3.3V readings and those in SpeedFan, and the readings in Speedfan also correspond to my "Probe" software's readings for my ASUS mobo.
Check your BIOS. Your machine may "work" with the 12V rail at 11.3V, but there are ways in which it would cause you some problems. It might also affect any ability to overclock the system -- if you ever intend to do that. Also, your +5V and +3.3V readings are low.
I wouldn't be able to respond about the temperatures unless I knew (a) what conditions were effective when you made your screen capture (idle or load? for instance), or (b) what processor you're using.
If you want to pursue this further, let us know what model and power-specification of your PSU, and add up the wattage draw from CPU, memory, vid-card, hard-disks, optical, fans, etc.
There is a guideline of wattage in Maximum PC Magazine from 2003 or 2004 -- don't remember which issue.
All monitoring programs display discrepancies under the OS. But with SpeedFan, I've never noticed a departure from the BIOS "Hardware Monitor" on rail voltages. I've noticed discrepancies with the VCORE, and there are specific reasons why the BIOS temperatures are higher than those in application software. I've never seen discrepancies between BIOS +12V, +5V and +3.3V readings and those in SpeedFan, and the readings in Speedfan also correspond to my "Probe" software's readings for my ASUS mobo.
Check your BIOS. Your machine may "work" with the 12V rail at 11.3V, but there are ways in which it would cause you some problems. It might also affect any ability to overclock the system -- if you ever intend to do that. Also, your +5V and +3.3V readings are low.
I wouldn't be able to respond about the temperatures unless I knew (a) what conditions were effective when you made your screen capture (idle or load? for instance), or (b) what processor you're using.
If you want to pursue this further, let us know what model and power-specification of your PSU, and add up the wattage draw from CPU, memory, vid-card, hard-disks, optical, fans, etc.
There is a guideline of wattage in Maximum PC Magazine from 2003 or 2004 -- don't remember which issue.
JBDan
Platinum Member
- Dec 7, 2004
- 2,333
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Thing is that I have used SpeedFan on several different pc's (diff psu, cpu, vid card, etc...) and SF has ALWAYS, in my builds, reported abnormally low +12V readings.... When all the other monitors (probe, everest, mbm, BIOS, etc... etc..) report within the + or - 5%. Its different for everyone I guess
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/926709/Everest.jpg
Is this healthy?
emachines T3025
3000+ AMD Athlon XP Processor
160 GB Hard Drive
CD-RW 48x Max Write
NVIDIA GeForce4 MX Integrated GPU
DVD 16x Max Read
512 MB DDR SDRAM
10/100 Mbps Ethernet
I don't have the specific wattage stuff
My bios says my pc is 45 degrees C. The manual doesn't say where the +12v thing is
Is this healthy?
emachines T3025
3000+ AMD Athlon XP Processor
160 GB Hard Drive
CD-RW 48x Max Write
NVIDIA GeForce4 MX Integrated GPU
DVD 16x Max Read
512 MB DDR SDRAM
10/100 Mbps Ethernet
I don't have the specific wattage stuff
My bios says my pc is 45 degrees C. The manual doesn't say where the +12v thing is
JBDan
Platinum Member
- Dec 7, 2004
- 2,333
- 0
- 0
Little on the warm side, but it is a Barton w/ 1.54Vcore. Its safe. All your voltages look low in Everest. You need to check volts in your BIOS and see what they read. Should be under "Hardware Monitor" or "Power Settings." Your room temps must be warm. All your eversest temps are a little warm. Just look into your voltages. Maybe you can even get a new psu out of it
In my Phoenix AwardBIOS under Hardware Monitor it only tells fan speeds and temp. In Power it only says something about AC Power Failure
It also lacks a "disable onboard graphics" which is the main reason I had to send my graphics card back to Newegg
It also lacks a "disable onboard graphics" which is the main reason I had to send my graphics card back to Newegg
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
- 16,683
- 2,055
- 126
FallenKaiser-- That's too bad that your mobo lacks voltage monitoring in the BIOS, FallenKaiser. If "AC Power failure" is a "status report," then I'd say there's either a problem with the PSU or its connection to the mobo.
JBDan -- That's interesting. My Speedfan Volt-monitoring seems "right on the money" with my BIOS readings. I have a multi-tester somewhere, but I'm not set up to do PSU evaluations like the testing labs at THG or Maximum PC. It is quite a coincidence that the PSU settings reported in the Maximum PC review for the OCZ Powerstream 520 showing that they were outside the 2% tolerance as shipped -- were exactly the same PSU settings I found on my own OCZ when I just received and installed it!! And of course, the reason I bought the OCZ model was that the unit has adjustable voltage rails, and I speedily set to work correcting the shortcoming reported by the magazine review.
Back to FallenKaiser. This is not meant as a criticism. I once preferred, for instance, Intel motherboards because they came from the processor manufacturer and had "simple" BIOS screens. And at one time, I would buy a motherboard with the onboard audio, LAN and even the graphics built-in. But the fact that a mobo has built-in graphics -- well -- that speaks to the market targeted by the manufacturer. Audio and LAN are "OK," but for me, I'd plan on getting my own AGP or PCI-E adapter. On the positive side, I approve of "nVidia GeForce4." I only would wish that it had been the Ti4600 or Ti4800 GPU -- instead of "MX."
I wish your BIOS had a better indication of where the low power is coming from. At this point, I'd ask "What kind of PSU did you buy?" and "How much did you spend on it?" or "Does it have a 1-year, 3-year, 5-year -- or no warranty at all?"
I used to occasionaly "blow" a power supply -- one fried a motherboard. This didn't happen regularly, but I didn't like it when it did happen. And at that time, I was unscrupulous in buying $35 to $45 PSUs sold in various hardware shops. I even had an Enermax go bad on me once -- after about two years.
The warranty of a PSU says much about the the manufacturer's confidence in the product. Sometimes, you can get a really good one for a decent price. I just installed an Antec NeoPower 480 that had been discounted to about $95 from $130-something. That's not "the best," but it has "Active PFC," a good warranty, and fairly consistent high ratings among the reviewers, even if not "the best" by their evaluations.
One more thing.
If you purchased the e-machines and other components to upgrade an old system and kept the power-supply, it may not even be adequate for the new system. See if you can find an article on Power Supplies published in Maximum PC Magazine over between 2003 and middle of last year: they published a guideline by component showing how to tally up the voltage draw on all your equipment. Or -- add up the peak wattage draws from the hardware specs on your hard disk, motherboard, processor, memory, graphics adapter, DVD-RW, fans and LED "pimp" lights. the PSU should have a table of maximum amperage draws on all the voltage rails, and by multiplying volts times amps and adding the products, you get cumulative watts. This would also hold true for a component that draws from two or more voltage rails: the specs should show the amperage draw on each voltage.
Sometimes, a PSU rated for high overall wattage (e.g., 500 watt) will have an anemic capability on the 12-Volt rail, and this will be reflected in the budget price for the unit. For instance, the ThermalTake PurePower 480 is a "decent" PSU, but it only has an 18-amp capacity on the 12V rail -- too many fans and hard disks, and it will have exceeded its limit. A good 500 watt PSU would probably have between 28 and 34 amp capacity on the +12V rail.
OEMs typically skimp on their power supply choices. They know what equipment they put in the box, and use PSUs designed to handle the cumulative wattage. So if you add a couple more hard-disks to your Dell, you may expect to run into some problems.
JBDan -- That's interesting. My Speedfan Volt-monitoring seems "right on the money" with my BIOS readings. I have a multi-tester somewhere, but I'm not set up to do PSU evaluations like the testing labs at THG or Maximum PC. It is quite a coincidence that the PSU settings reported in the Maximum PC review for the OCZ Powerstream 520 showing that they were outside the 2% tolerance as shipped -- were exactly the same PSU settings I found on my own OCZ when I just received and installed it!! And of course, the reason I bought the OCZ model was that the unit has adjustable voltage rails, and I speedily set to work correcting the shortcoming reported by the magazine review.
Back to FallenKaiser. This is not meant as a criticism. I once preferred, for instance, Intel motherboards because they came from the processor manufacturer and had "simple" BIOS screens. And at one time, I would buy a motherboard with the onboard audio, LAN and even the graphics built-in. But the fact that a mobo has built-in graphics -- well -- that speaks to the market targeted by the manufacturer. Audio and LAN are "OK," but for me, I'd plan on getting my own AGP or PCI-E adapter. On the positive side, I approve of "nVidia GeForce4." I only would wish that it had been the Ti4600 or Ti4800 GPU -- instead of "MX."
I wish your BIOS had a better indication of where the low power is coming from. At this point, I'd ask "What kind of PSU did you buy?" and "How much did you spend on it?" or "Does it have a 1-year, 3-year, 5-year -- or no warranty at all?"
I used to occasionaly "blow" a power supply -- one fried a motherboard. This didn't happen regularly, but I didn't like it when it did happen. And at that time, I was unscrupulous in buying $35 to $45 PSUs sold in various hardware shops. I even had an Enermax go bad on me once -- after about two years.
The warranty of a PSU says much about the the manufacturer's confidence in the product. Sometimes, you can get a really good one for a decent price. I just installed an Antec NeoPower 480 that had been discounted to about $95 from $130-something. That's not "the best," but it has "Active PFC," a good warranty, and fairly consistent high ratings among the reviewers, even if not "the best" by their evaluations.
One more thing.
If you purchased the e-machines and other components to upgrade an old system and kept the power-supply, it may not even be adequate for the new system. See if you can find an article on Power Supplies published in Maximum PC Magazine over between 2003 and middle of last year: they published a guideline by component showing how to tally up the voltage draw on all your equipment. Or -- add up the peak wattage draws from the hardware specs on your hard disk, motherboard, processor, memory, graphics adapter, DVD-RW, fans and LED "pimp" lights. the PSU should have a table of maximum amperage draws on all the voltage rails, and by multiplying volts times amps and adding the products, you get cumulative watts. This would also hold true for a component that draws from two or more voltage rails: the specs should show the amperage draw on each voltage.
Sometimes, a PSU rated for high overall wattage (e.g., 500 watt) will have an anemic capability on the 12-Volt rail, and this will be reflected in the budget price for the unit. For instance, the ThermalTake PurePower 480 is a "decent" PSU, but it only has an 18-amp capacity on the 12V rail -- too many fans and hard disks, and it will have exceeded its limit. A good 500 watt PSU would probably have between 28 and 34 amp capacity on the +12V rail.
OEMs typically skimp on their power supply choices. They know what equipment they put in the box, and use PSUs designed to handle the cumulative wattage. So if you add a couple more hard-disks to your Dell, you may expect to run into some problems.
"At this point, I'd ask "What kind of PSU did you buy?" and "How much did you spend on it?" or "Does it have a 1-year, 3-year, 5-year -- or no warranty at all?"
I don't know. Where do I find that out?
"On the positive side, I approve of "nVidia GeForce4."
It's horrible for gaming, anime, and only gets 32 bits on the display properties. I saw someone else watch anime on their laptop and they got better animation than me because of their card
"But the fact that a mobo has built-in graphics -- well -- that speaks to the market targeted by the manufacturer."
That's how it came in. I didn't know it had that. It made installing the new graphics card a pain. I ended up having to send back the nVidia GeForce 6600 (the new graphics card)
You have good advice, but why should I add up all my voltage and buy a new Power Supply. My computer seems all right now. It's just the graphics card really sucks
I don't know. Where do I find that out?
"On the positive side, I approve of "nVidia GeForce4."
It's horrible for gaming, anime, and only gets 32 bits on the display properties. I saw someone else watch anime on their laptop and they got better animation than me because of their card
"But the fact that a mobo has built-in graphics -- well -- that speaks to the market targeted by the manufacturer."
That's how it came in. I didn't know it had that. It made installing the new graphics card a pain. I ended up having to send back the nVidia GeForce 6600 (the new graphics card)
You have good advice, but why should I add up all my voltage and buy a new Power Supply. My computer seems all right now. It's just the graphics card really sucks
JEDIYoda
Lifer
- Jul 13, 2005
- 33,986
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Its been my experience that the cheaper mobo`s have onboard graphics.
Doesn`t matter what type of on board graphics!
I have always stayed away from mobos that had onboard graphi
I use to use speed fan until I noticed that compared to other such programs that when used together mirrored themselves; compared to speedfan speedfan was always abmormally low.
Have a nice day!!
Doesn`t matter what type of on board graphics!
I have always stayed away from mobos that had onboard graphi
I use to use speed fan until I noticed that compared to other such programs that when used together mirrored themselves; compared to speedfan speedfan was always abmormally low.
Have a nice day!!
BonzaiDuck
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2004
- 16,683
- 2,055
- 126
"why should I add up all my voltage and buy a new Power Supply."
Well, that's your choice. I'd say its a better idea if you bought upgrade parts and installed them yourself.
It looks like you indeed did use an existing PSU. Often, even the cheaper ones have a label on the side of PSU-chassis which shows the wattage, voltage and amperage specs in a little table -- other times, not. Look first of all for a label or indication of the unit's maximum wattage. If you add up the wattages of all components drawing power from the PSU and they are over that limit, there is some chance that you're either right on the edge power-wise or over the limit. Your computer usage may be such that you are not running all components simultaneously to their maximum power draw on the PSU, so the effective power draw may be within the unit's range.
But a graphics card is one of the biggest power-hogs under the case. I can't remember precisely the guidelines that were published, but it was either 65W or 95W -- something like that.
You're gonna decide what to do. Some of the posters here, whom I respect, have a valid point about the accuracy of monitoring programs. I'm a bit more confident about my own Speedfan readings, for reasons I mentioned earlier. I'd say -- find out what the PSU is rated at in Watts; compare that to the power-draw on your components; and you will have taken time to either satisfy yourself that nothing is wrong, or you will find some indication that you need to correct a deficiency.
Well, that's your choice. I'd say its a better idea if you bought upgrade parts and installed them yourself.
It looks like you indeed did use an existing PSU. Often, even the cheaper ones have a label on the side of PSU-chassis which shows the wattage, voltage and amperage specs in a little table -- other times, not. Look first of all for a label or indication of the unit's maximum wattage. If you add up the wattages of all components drawing power from the PSU and they are over that limit, there is some chance that you're either right on the edge power-wise or over the limit. Your computer usage may be such that you are not running all components simultaneously to their maximum power draw on the PSU, so the effective power draw may be within the unit's range.
But a graphics card is one of the biggest power-hogs under the case. I can't remember precisely the guidelines that were published, but it was either 65W or 95W -- something like that.
You're gonna decide what to do. Some of the posters here, whom I respect, have a valid point about the accuracy of monitoring programs. I'm a bit more confident about my own Speedfan readings, for reasons I mentioned earlier. I'd say -- find out what the PSU is rated at in Watts; compare that to the power-draw on your components; and you will have taken time to either satisfy yourself that nothing is wrong, or you will find some indication that you need to correct a deficiency.
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