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Speed bleeders

The ones made from stainless steel caught my eye...

For the price of $28/car I'd lean towards a vacuum bleeder for $30-40.
 
I just put a set of those on my C6. I have one caliper that, for some reason, it's not working on. I even swapped it out with another and it's still leaking - builds up so much pressure it will actually blow the cap right off.

I replaced it with a standard bleeder valve and no leaks.
 
sgrinavi said:
I just put a set of those on my C6. I have one caliper that, for some reason, it's not working on. I even swapped it out with another and it's still leaking - builds up so much pressure it will actually blow the cap right off.

I replaced it with a standard bleeder valve and no leaks.
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That would suck if you lost pressure in an extreme situation, I'd contact the company and explain the issue and ask for a replacement.
 
Those things have been around for a while. I've never heard anything about them.

Which leads to obvious speculation: They probably don't work very well. If they did, I would suspect that any enthusiast would put them on during a brake flush (or brake upgrade, ect), assuming he had no other specialty tools to bleed the system quickly and efficiently. Seems very cheap and easy.

I don't know why they would leak, though. Aside from the check ball and spring, are they different from a normal bleeder? I don't think I've ever had a stock one leak unless someone had damaged it during some prior work.

If you can get a second person and just want to make it easier on yourself, wear gloves (you should wear gloves when working with brake fluid, anyhow), loosen the bleeder slightly, and push your finger against the top of the valve while the second guy pumps the pedal slowly. Your glove will seal around the top of the bleeder on the pedal's upstroke. So no turning the valve back and forth, and no yelling PUMP and HOLD a hundred times. Just gotta make sure you don't leak air past the threads.
 
franksta said:
I've got a set on 2 of my cars for flushing fresh fluid through. I think they are grea, the ones I got are made by Russell
Click to expand...

Bummer, they don't have my car listed on the vehicle spec sheet. I was looking at your garage build thread, very nice indeed, are you planning to work on cars as a second income or is that just to service your own vehicles?..
 
BUTCH1 said:
That would suck if you lost pressure in an extreme situation, I'd contact the company and explain the issue and ask for a replacement.
Click to expand...

Funny thing is that I took one out of another caliper that works fine and stuck it in the caliper that's acting up. No change. It's my caliper causing the problem. I just stuck a standard bleeder in that one. I'm probably going to upgrade my brakes in the near future anyhow.
 
sgrinavi said:
Funny thing is that I took one out of another caliper that works fine and stuck it in the caliper that's acting up. No change. It's my caliper causing the problem. I just stuck a standard bleeder in that one. I'm probably going to upgrade my brakes in the near future anyhow.
Click to expand...

Possible thread problem? but that doesn't make sense since a normal bleeder worked fine..
 
Motorcycle guys have had them leak, pop open, and get stuck open. Could be due to higher heat, I dunno.

To me... Brakes, like tires, are something you just don't screw around with and take shortcuts on.
 
SpatiallyAware said:
Motorcycle guys have had them leak, pop open, and get stuck open. Could be due to higher heat, I dunno.

To me... Brakes, like tires, are something you just don't screw around with and take shortcuts on.
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Most guys that use them appear to be the track guys who flush their fluids more often. It takes about 5 - 10 minutes and you can do it by yourself. Flush & bleed. They're not necessary because you can probably do the job just as fast using a compressor. Maybe a slight bit slower the old fashioned way with a partner.

If you pick up the bleeders, you should buy the thread sealant or use thread tape. I think they also call it teflon tape/plumbers tape. The reason is because air can go back in the system via the threads on the screws themself. That's a potential problem for any method. Alternatively you could spread some grease around the threads every time you bleed the air from the lines.
 
M0oG0oGaiPan said:
Most guys that use them appear to be the track guys who flush their fluids more often. It takes about 5 - 10 minutes and you can do it by yourself. Flush & bleed. They're not necessary because you can probably do the job just as fast using a compressor. Maybe a slight bit slower the old fashioned way with a partner.

If you pick up the bleeders, you should buy the thread sealant or use thread tape. I think they also call it teflon tape/plumbers tape. The reason is because air can go back in the system via the threads on the screws themself. That's a potential problem for any method. Alternatively you could spread some grease around the threads every time you bleed the air from the lines.
Click to expand...

If you see air in the bleeder line it's probably coming from around the threads but since your using a suction device of some kind that air is not going to go into the caliper, it will just get sucked up the line along with the fluid.
 
BUTCH1 said:
Bummer, they don't have my car listed on the vehicle spec sheet. I was looking at your garage build thread, very nice indeed, are you planning to work on cars as a second income or is that just to service your own vehicles?..
Click to expand...


Just for fun.
 
Since I only bleed brakes once every 2 years I will continue to rely on my Mityvac vacumn bleeder. I think it is probably quicker also.
 
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