The stock speaker wires that come with them suck. Sometimes a speaker dies out and I gotta fiddle around with the wire to get the sound to come back. Anyway, I went to Radio Shack to get some new wire. They guy said they didn't have any and he didn't know of that kind of wire. Ya know, it has the 1/8inch jack at one end and 2 copper wires at the other to hook into the amp. Does anyone know where I can get some quality speaker wire? I live in Canada. I really don't know of any place other than Radio Shack that would have that. Is there a technical term for this type of wire?
Speaker wire for my Klipsch Promedias
- Thread starter Pacinamac23
- Start date
MichaelD
Lifer
- Jan 16, 2001
- 31,528
- 3
- 76
I agree; the stock cable do suck. Trying to push 40 watts thru 22-gauge wire is like trying to suck a golf ball thru a 100-foot garden hose.
Here's a fix that I did. Several others here have done this as well. Hopefully, you have a soldering iron and know how to use it.
1. You need 16-gauge speaker wire. Here in the states, I paid $10 USD for a 50-foot roll. Get a roll of this wire.
2. Go to Radio shack and buy about 12 (you'll mess up a few...I did) 3.5mm mono mini jacks. The kind w/the threaded collar is best. IF RS doesn't have these, check an electronics supply house. Buy some heatshrink tubing to fit the wire as well.
3. Cut the lengths of wire to suit your needs. My front speakers have 6 feet each (about 3 feet too long, but hey, in the future I want a GIANT computer desk) My rear speakers each have 15 feet of wire.l
4. Strip about 1/4 of wire from each lead. Solder the silver wire to the center connector on the plug (positive). Solder the gold wire to the bigger, outer connector (ground). Cut about a 3/4 inch piece of heatshrink & slide it down the wire from the other end, over the two solder points. With a cigarette lighter, shrink the tubing around it. Screw down the collar.
5. Repeat step 4, three more times. Hook up your new wires and be amazed at the difference, not only in sound quality, but in how cool the amp now runs. There's a noticeable difference in how hot it gets. Mostly that it won't get hot anymore, just warm. The amp has to work a lot easier to push the current thru 16 gauge wire than 22 gauge wire.
Some things to look out for.
1. When soldering the two wires to the two connectors, MAKE SURE that the positive doesnt' touch the negative. I stripped too much wire off the positve lead of one of the wires and it was grounding against the collar (neg wire).
2. Make sure you use the silver wire as positive on all the wires. This ensures a "universal standard" and all speakers will be in-phase w/each other.
That's it. Good luck.
Here's a fix that I did. Several others here have done this as well. Hopefully, you have a soldering iron and know how to use it.
1. You need 16-gauge speaker wire. Here in the states, I paid $10 USD for a 50-foot roll. Get a roll of this wire.
2. Go to Radio shack and buy about 12 (you'll mess up a few...I did) 3.5mm mono mini jacks. The kind w/the threaded collar is best. IF RS doesn't have these, check an electronics supply house. Buy some heatshrink tubing to fit the wire as well.
3. Cut the lengths of wire to suit your needs. My front speakers have 6 feet each (about 3 feet too long, but hey, in the future I want a GIANT computer desk) My rear speakers each have 15 feet of wire.l
4. Strip about 1/4 of wire from each lead. Solder the silver wire to the center connector on the plug (positive). Solder the gold wire to the bigger, outer connector (ground). Cut about a 3/4 inch piece of heatshrink & slide it down the wire from the other end, over the two solder points. With a cigarette lighter, shrink the tubing around it. Screw down the collar.
5. Repeat step 4, three more times. Hook up your new wires and be amazed at the difference, not only in sound quality, but in how cool the amp now runs. There's a noticeable difference in how hot it gets. Mostly that it won't get hot anymore, just warm. The amp has to work a lot easier to push the current thru 16 gauge wire than 22 gauge wire.
Some things to look out for.
1. When soldering the two wires to the two connectors, MAKE SURE that the positive doesnt' touch the negative. I stripped too much wire off the positve lead of one of the wires and it was grounding against the collar (neg wire).
2. Make sure you use the silver wire as positive on all the wires. This ensures a "universal standard" and all speakers will be in-phase w/each other.
That's it. Good luck.
"I agree; the stock cable do suck. Trying to push 40 watts thru 22-gauge wire is like trying to suck a golf ball thru a 100-foot garden hose."
Is there really that much of a performance gain from changing the wires?
Is there really that much of a performance gain from changing the wires?
MichaelD
Lifer
- Jan 16, 2001
- 31,528
- 3
- 76
I can hear the difference, but then I've been into audio for about 17 years or so. Plus, your amp will have a lot less resistance push thru. Bigger pipe = more water thru; bigger wire = more current thru.
For the average Joe, I guess the stock wires will suffice. You're not gonna hurt anything by using them; after all Klipsch does package those wires w/the speaks!
Even counting the 3 connectors I messed up (too much solder) it took about 2 1/2 hours to make the new cables, zip the two rear wires together, run the wires and hook them up. Well worth it IMO. The amp runs cool = longer life...but maybe not because of the volume I play at. (See sig!) Plus, it looks bad-ass! Mike out.
For the average Joe, I guess the stock wires will suffice. You're not gonna hurt anything by using them; after all Klipsch does package those wires w/the speaks!
Even counting the 3 connectors I messed up (too much solder) it took about 2 1/2 hours to make the new cables, zip the two rear wires together, run the wires and hook them up. Well worth it IMO. The amp runs cool = longer life...but maybe not because of the volume I play at. (See sig!) Plus, it looks bad-ass! Mike out.
The soldering iron is our friend, don't let it intimidate you. You'll have
a feeling of acomplishment and save money. Good for the ego and pocket book. Unless you use "Monster Cable", that stuff will brake the bank.
a feeling of acomplishment and save money. Good for the ego and pocket book. Unless you use "Monster Cable", that stuff will brake the bank.
<< Unless you use "Monster Cable", that stuff will brake the bank. >>
Heh. Some people spend over $100 on interconnects alone.
is monster cable worth it over the 16 gauge ? and can't you just crimp the plugs onto the speaker cables rather then solder it? that's how i did the connections in my case for fans, etc.
Personally I don't think Monster would improve a computers sound set-up.
Yes, you could just crimp or wrap the wires, but copper dose corrode and the connection would degrade in time.
Yes, you could just crimp or wrap the wires, but copper dose corrode and the connection would degrade in time.
MichaelD
Lifer
- Jan 16, 2001
- 31,528
- 3
- 76
I've been doing "audio" a long time. It's probably one of my stronger knowledge fields. (Not too many of those either! ) Any "good" speaker cable is OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) It's a refining process where they remove the oxygen from the copper in the actual "metal" wire. Which is mostly copper. Monster Cable (I have about $300 worth of their interconnects connecting my HT components) is very good, but complete overkill for this application. Most 16 gauge speaker cable you buy these days is OFC. Inexpensive but good stuff is made by a company called Arista. Their products are everywhere.
A word to the wise; unless you're going to solder the connections, don't even bother. You'll waste your time and money.
) Any "good" speaker cable is OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) It's a refining process where they remove the oxygen from the copper in the actual "metal" wire. Which is mostly copper. Monster Cable (I have about $300 worth of their interconnects connecting my HT components) is very good, but complete overkill for this application. Most 16 gauge speaker cable you buy these days is OFC. Inexpensive but good stuff is made by a company called Arista. Their products are everywhere.A word to the wise; unless you're going to solder the connections, don't even bother. You'll waste your time and money.
#22 wire may be too small for 40 watts, but a better analogy would be pushing a BB thorugh a garden hose.
Ordinary #18 or #16 zip cord is fine for wiring speakers, but if you wire any jacks that contain more than one wire, be sure to prevent the possibility of shorts by covering each connection with heat shrink plastic tubing.
Nobody can really hear differences between zip cord and Monster cable because the speakers usually have far more resistance than any wire. But many can imagine differences, and I guess that's more important.
Ordinary #18 or #16 zip cord is fine for wiring speakers, but if you wire any jacks that contain more than one wire, be sure to prevent the possibility of shorts by covering each connection with heat shrink plastic tubing.
Nobody can really hear differences between zip cord and Monster cable because the speakers usually have far more resistance than any wire. But many can imagine differences, and I guess that's more important.
ah i use 16 guage speaker wire, used gold solderless plugs. added some tongue connectors for the subwoofer connector ends and ring ones to connect to solderless plugs. u crimp these things on the ends
solder is probablythe way to go.. but i was lazy the plugs i got were too long.. so ididn't use the outer casing.. wrapped the suckers up in electrical tape. ugly but it worsk
solder is probablythe way to go.. but i was lazy
the plugs i got were too long.. so ididn't use the outer casing.. wrapped the suckers up in electrical tape. ugly but it worsk<< Nobody can really hear differences between zip cord and Monster cable... But many can imagine differences, and I guess that's more important. >>
You speak the truth, too bad no one will believe you. I can hear it now..."But I have supercalifragilistic wire and it sounds soooo much better than that regular stuff you idiots use. The salesman said the electron flow is much smoother because the special winding makes them all spin the same way. Also, the high frequency electrons are not as shrill, and the bass electrons are not as boomy. Physics and the laws of nature have nothing to do with it. The brochure and salesman said I would hear an improvement, and they were right!"
MichaelD
Lifer
- Jan 16, 2001
- 31,528
- 3
- 76
Ah. Ignorance. It just smells so......uninformed. Usually, sweeping generalizations are not a good idea.
You guys are partially right though; there really isn't a difference between good, inexpensive OFC wire and the $100-a-foot "supercagafragilistic" wire.
<< Nobody can really hear differences between zip cord and Monster cable... But many can imagine differences, and I guess that's more important. >>
Here's where you go awry. There IS a difference. An electrical difference. I am not an EE. Let's get that one straight right off the bat. But I've been involved with audio and wiring of homes and cars for audio for many years.
Zip cord carries electricity, but it's meant to carry mains voltage, i.e. 115V. The metals that compose the "wire" part of zip cord have many impurities in it. This degrades the current (and therefore the sound), which isn't all that high to begin with when dealing with the current that a typical HT amp puts out.
OFC cable (i.e. Monster Cable or other quality cable) is specially made with it's intended use in mind. Also, while we are on the topic, I'd imagine you think there's no difference between a pair of Radio Shack RCA cables and a pair of Monster Cable RCAs, right? HT-grade (or audiophile or whatever label you want to slap on it) RCA's are shielded against RF & EMF. Cheapo no-name RCA'S have no shielding at all.
I'm not flaming anyone; just trying to educate.
You guys are partially right though; there really isn't a difference between good, inexpensive OFC wire and the $100-a-foot "supercagafragilistic" wire.
<< Nobody can really hear differences between zip cord and Monster cable... But many can imagine differences, and I guess that's more important. >>
Here's where you go awry. There IS a difference. An electrical difference. I am not an EE. Let's get that one straight right off the bat. But I've been involved with audio and wiring of homes and cars for audio for many years.
Zip cord carries electricity, but it's meant to carry mains voltage, i.e. 115V. The metals that compose the "wire" part of zip cord have many impurities in it. This degrades the current (and therefore the sound), which isn't all that high to begin with when dealing with the current that a typical HT amp puts out.
OFC cable (i.e. Monster Cable or other quality cable) is specially made with it's intended use in mind. Also, while we are on the topic, I'd imagine you think there's no difference between a pair of Radio Shack RCA cables and a pair of Monster Cable RCAs, right? HT-grade (or audiophile or whatever label you want to slap on it) RCA's are shielded against RF & EMF. Cheapo no-name RCA'S have no shielding at all.
I'm not flaming anyone; just trying to educate.
<< I am not an EE. >>
I am. I used to work for a high-end amplifier manufacturer, and have been involved in high-end audio since 1977. When you say you've been involved in wiring houses and cars for years, do you mean pulling wire or MAKING wire? Quite a big difference there. Just because I know how to pump gas for my car doesn't make me an expert on gasoline! Let's hit the high points:
<< The metals that compose the "wire" part of zip cord have many impurities in it. This degrades the current (and therefore the sound)... >>
Not one shred of scientific evidence of this effect. Pure marketing hype. The only conceivable advantage to OFC is that in an EXTREMELY corrosive environment the wire would corrode LESS. By extremely corrosive, I mean unable to sustain biological life.
<< I'd imagine you think there's no difference between a pair of Radio Shack RCA cables and a pair of Monster Cable RCAs, right? >>
Besides the more sturdy physical construction and rip-off price? No electrical difference at all.
<< Cheapo no-name RCA'S have no shielding at all. >>
RCA cables carry high-level signals. ALL of them are constucted in a similar fashion - a pair of conductors in a jacket. They are inherently low-noise (or rather, the signal level is so far above the noise floor that it doesn't matter). Additional shielding on this type of cable makes no difference at all. It's just hype, trying to make it seem like you are getting the benefits of a balanced connection through voodoo magic.
Not meaning to flame you MichaelD, but just because something sounds like a good idea or is plausible doesn't mean that it is! Unless you work in the marketing department, of course. Psuedo-science runs rampant. Most people will believe whatever you tell them if it sounds possible because they don't have the knowledge to make decisions based on facts. An education like you are trying to provide is worse than no education at all! Someone who THINKS they know what they are talking about when they REALLY don't is not a good thing.
I'm not flaming anyone; just trying to educate.
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