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Some shots with my 50 1.8

stopingp down means letting in less light. Typically lenses will perform better stopped down (as in better sharpness). So although you increase the f-stop... you are stopping down. Confusing eh?
 
Originally posted by: Sawyer
Keep in mind I am a novice and still learning the terminology and settings etc so I may be wrong
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50...era-Lens/dp/B00007E7JU

What the previous poster meant is that you should stop the lens DOWN to f/4. f/1.8 is the largest its aperture will open, but you can always stop it down to a smaller aperture to gain some sharpness. IIRC the 50mm f/1.8 is very soft at f/1.8 and improves dramatically by f/2.8.
 
Originally posted by: rudder
stopingp down means letting in less light. Typically lenses will perform better stopped down (as in better sharpness). So although you increase the f-stop... you are stopping down. Confusing eh?

There is a very simple explanation for why larger aperture numbers correspond to smaller apertures.

Aperture=focal length of lens (f) divided by maximum aperture opening (D)

So, at any focal length, a larger aperture opening leads to a smaller f/D ratio, hence why a smaller number (e.g. f/1.2) means a larger aperture than say, f/2.8.
 
OK I the numbers are backwards, I really need a good book to explain this stuff. I will try it and take a test shot in a sec.
 
All lenses have an iris, or aperture, that widens or narrows, letting in more or less light, respectively. That f-number, f/1.8, f/4, etc signify how wide that aperture is open. The LOWER the number, the WIDER that lens opening, and the more light it'll bring in. So f/1.8 is the widest that your lens goes. f/4 would be NARROWER than f/1.8, and would bring in less light.

Stopping down means narrowing that aperture (going from a smaller f-number to a larger one).

Lens sharpness for most lenses looks somewhat like a bell curve, basically a hump in the middle with maximum sharpness. Lenses start off soft at max aperture (f/1.8 in your case), and gradually increase sharpness as you stop down, usually reaching peak sharpness at f/5.6-f/8. Then sharpness starts decreasing as you stop down even more and reach pretty bad levels past f/16.

You're probably wondering why smaller f-numbers actually signify LARGER aperture openings. It's because this f-number is actually a ratio, with the f-number in the denominator position.

f/1.8 actually means the focal length (f) divided by 1.8. So 50mm / 1.8 = 27.78mm
f/4 means 50mm / 4 = 12.5mm, which is smaller than 27.78mm

Thus for a 50mm lens, f/1.8 = 27.78mm which is bigger than f/4 = 12.5mm.

This number is the size of the lens' entrance pupil.
 
Don't feel bad, OP. It took me a few weeks in photography class in college for me to truly wrap my head around it.

Check out this book, it should help you a lot.
 
This book is not for me!
"Product Description
For serious amateur photographers who already shoot perfectly focused, accurately exposed images but want to be more creative with a camera, here?s the book to consult."
 
Originally posted by: Sawyer
This book is not for me!
"Product Description
For serious amateur photographers who already shoot perfectly focused, accurately exposed images but want to be more creative with a camera, here?s the book to consult."

lol, that description is kind of a joke. Trust me, you don't need that level of expertise. And really, don't you already do that already? Your camera focuses for you and exposes for you as well 🙂
 
Originally posted by: Sawyer
As far as general pics in good light/outside etc will my 18-55 IS take better pics?

The photographer takes the pictures, not the lens 😉

The 18-55 IS will not be nearly as sharp as a 50mm prime though, especially if you shoot with the prime stopped down beyond f/2.8.

Few zoom lenses can come to the quality of even an inexpensive prime lens simply because of the compromises involved in making a lens zoom.
 
996gt2 is right! Your lens (nor the camera!) does not determine how good the picture turns out - YOU DO! Shocksydes recommendation for "Understanding Exposure" is an absolute must for reading material. You have 2 decent lenses that don't suck. The 50's limitation (to me at least) is that its a portrait style lens and isn't great for landscapes - or really much any distance away. The 18-55's is that its a zoom lens and compromises a bit of image quality for focal length range. Neither are showstoppers, both decent lenses, you use each ones strength to your advantage.

The 50 is rather sharp and has a narrow depth of field wide open - great for bokeh and still life, and portraits.

The zoom lens will probably be your walking around lens - its versatile. lets you compose without moving, is a good "all-around" lens.

Reread that second sentence I wrote. Now read it again. It's not the gear - its the fellow behind the gear who makes it look good.
 
should we introduce him to another term - Depth of Field (DoF)? I think you can catch up after reading Fuzzy's and 996GT2's post. But bare with my poor english.

With a large aperture (smaller number), everything away from the focal point will easily become blurry. Using your second pic as an example, the nose of purple dragon is in focus, but everything else looks blurry. And the guy in pic 1, the b-ball is in sharp focus, but the rest of his body, particularly his legs, is out. If you stop down, (aka, smaller aperture size / go up in aperture value), a larger focal plane will be in focus (in a way, more "area" will be in focus).
 
Originally posted by: 996GT2
What the previous poster meant is that you should stop the lens DOWN to f/4. f/1.8 is the largest its aperture will open, but you can always stop it down to a smaller aperture to gain some sharpness. IIRC the 50mm f/1.8 is very soft at f/1.8 and improves dramatically by f/2.8.
Does stopping down to f/2.8 also creates a larger DOF?

If so, how do we get sharper pictures with shallower DOF? Better lens?

In general, are we supposed to test and memorize the sharpest aperture for a given focal length? I'm not sure if that make any sense, because I have problems getting everything in a shot in focus and sharp in automatic mode (landscape pictures). If I switch to AV mode, then I am not sure which f/stop to get everything in focus and sharp. This is with my 18-55 kit lens.

This is one thing that I find DSLR a lot less forgiving than P&S.
 
Originally posted by: BehindEnemyLines
Does stopping down to f/2.8 also creates a larger DOF?

If so, how do we get sharper pictures with shallower DOF? Better lens?

In general, are we supposed to test and memorize the sharpest aperture for a given focal length? I'm not sure if that make any sense, because I have problems getting everything in a shot in focus and sharp in automatic mode (landscape pictures). If I switch to AV mode, then I am not sure which f/stop to get everything in focus and sharp. This is with my 18-55 kit lens.

i can't answer your specific question, but you do not want shallow DOF for Landscape. And in general, F4-F8 is usually the sharpest for most lenses at most focal length [/end blanket statement]. And yes, to your first question, stopping down will create greater DOF.
 
then I am not sure which f/stop to get everything in focus and sharp.

It varies.

Generally speaking - with a 1.6x crop (current gen consumer and prosumer dslrs) - f/9.0 and smaller (larger number) will give you a decent amount of DOF. However - it all depends on the scene! If you are shooting say a Walmart parking lot for some reason - f/9.0 will give you plenty of DOF. Shooting a mile long valley - or a mountain from a great distance will require more like f/22 on a tripod and maybe an ND filter at like a 1 second exposure will get you the largest DOF and sharpest view.

[1]This is one thing that I find DSLR a lot less forgiving than P&S.[/1]
Apples and oranges. The f/stop number displayed on a point and shoot is not the same f/stop number for a dslr. This is for the same reason that focal lengths aren't the same either. A p&s sensor is less than 1/10 the area of an APS-C (current gen dslr 1.6x)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SensorSizes.svg

While the size of the hole is constant - it's effect is not - because the image is focused very close to the image sensor due to its miniscule size. You can figure 3-4 stops down from what your point and shoot tells you - for its actual value.
Thus if your P&S says f/2.8 - its really more like f/11, and when it says f/8.0 thats really f/32. It happens to work for the market at which point and shoots are aimed. (set on auto press the shutter, the whole scene is in focus - Aunt Barb is happy).

Shoot your dslr at f/11 all day and see how most pictures have the whole scene in soft focus.

Andy is mostly right - since nearly all lenses have a max aperture of f/3.5-f/5.6 about 1 stop down is usually the sweet spot. Its also a rather narrow DOF for mid-long landscapes.

In general, are we supposed to test and memorize the sharpest aperture for a given focal length?

No. You don't always want the sharpest imaginable picture. If you were shooting a waterfall for instance, or were trying to imply motion than you would use other tricks to convey the effect. Nice bokeh specular highlights only come out wide open, otherwise its octogonal. Sunsets are often at f/22 or smaller. Shooting in the Everglades (where you can see for miles around) - I never went above f/13 unless I happened upon a gator or heron, then I went past the sharpest point to increase bokeh 1/3 stop down from wide open.

Sharpness generally goes down with increasing focal length, but the sharpest possible aperture is within a stop for the whole range. Sometimes you can't shoot at that aperture because its too bright, or too dark. Not much you can do. This is where films strength lies - it's latitude. You can totally shoot film wrong and it will mostly come out OK. Digital is far less forgiving. You should know where your lens sweet spot is, and for those photos that matter - get as close as you can.

In all - you use your camera as a tool. There is a lot you don't know it can do.
 
bobdole369, thanks for the detailed explanation. You cleared up a lot of the questions I was having.
I also ordered the Understanding Exposure book linked earlier. Waiting for some good reading and practice...
 
Originally posted by: BehindEnemyLines
bobdole369, thanks for the detailed explanation. You cleared up a lot of the questions I was having.
I also ordered the Understanding Exposure book linked earlier. Waiting for some good reading and practice...

Good book; I hope you got the updated version since the original was intended for film SLR photography (so some of the info wasn't necessarily applicable to digital).
 
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