Some car maintenance questions

[FlashG]

I?m working on my son?s 95 Accord front discs. What type of grease do I use on disc brakes? Also on what surfaces do I apply it? I have used wheel bearing grease in the past.

I?m also replacing the stock shocks with Konis. Does Sears sell a good spring compressor for this?

Thanks,

 

[erikiksaz]

The last time we installed new springs+shocks on my friend's 94 accord, we didn't need a spring compressor. Sure, it shot out a little bit, but so long as you had pressure on the stock shocks/springs it was okay.

I think you can rent the compressors.

 

[Thegonagle]

Grease the pins that the caliper "floats" on with a high-temp synthetic lube sold for that purpose. You can also use some anti-squeal stuff on the BACK side of the new pads if the replacement pads didn't come with new anti-squeal shims. Don't put anything on the rotors or the side of the pads that touch the rotors.

 

[OS]

supposedly autozone rents out spring compressors

 

[OS]

finger slipped

 

[db]

What Thegonagle said.
Make sure any spring compressor is made for imports not just American cars, as the coils are closer together on the Accord and most compressors will not fit in between the narrower spaces. Be careful b/c it the spring gets loose under compression someone can be seriously hurt.

 

I?m working on my son?s 95 Accord front discs. What type of grease do I use on disc brakes? Also on what surfaces do I apply it? I have used wheel bearing grease in the past.

Use only silicone grease on the caliper mounting pins/sliders.

I?m also replacing the stock shocks with Konis. Does Sears sell a good spring compressor for this?

If you buy a cheapie spring compressor, make damn sure you install the chain safeties when you are compressing the springs.

 

[NutBucket]

On the Accord you don't need a compressor to get the struts in/out of the car. You unbolt the shock/spring as a unit. You use a compressor to hold the spring when you take the spring off of the shocks.

 

[FlashG]

I guess I should have mentioned that we already have Neuspeed Race Springs on the car. They are shorter with thicker wire and have a whole lot more tension than stock.

 

I guess I should have mentioned that we already have Neuspeed Race Springs on the car. They are shorter with thicker wire and have a whole lot more tension than stock.

Do not under any circumstance use a screw type strut compressor, you must use a hydraulic compressor or have it done for you at a shop that has one.
Screw type strut compressors will break and it will cut you in half when it does.

 

[FlashG]

Originally posted by: Roger

I guess I should have mentioned that we already have Neuspeed Race Springs on the car. They are shorter with thicker wire and have a whole lot more tension than stock.

Do not under any circumstance use a screw type strut compressor, you must use a hydraulic compressor or have it done for you at a shop that has one.
Screw type strut compressors will break and it will cut you in half when it does.

Thanks Roger. Thats the type of advise that I was looking for.

 

[FlashG]

One final question. What kind of grease do I use for the Ball Joints and Tie rod ends? Is regular wheel bearing grease or lithium grease OK?

I tore up the boots with my pickle fork and I need to replace them. Both joints are in excellent condition so I am not planning on replacing them now.

 

One final question. What kind of grease do I use for the Ball Joints and Tie rod ends? Is regular wheel bearing grease or lithium grease OK?

Yes, wheel bearing grease is just fine, if you live in a wet area, use Lithium grease, it is much more water resistant than standard wheel bearing grease.

 

[Eli]

Originally posted by: Roger

One final question. What kind of grease do I use for the Ball Joints and Tie rod ends? Is regular wheel bearing grease or lithium grease OK?

Yes, wheel bearing grease is just fine, if you live in a wet area, use Lithium grease, it is much more water resistant than standard wheel bearing grease.

I would like add that if you want to be thorough, there is nothing wrong with water resistant synthetic grease either.

There are some pretty cool water resistant synthetic greases out there.. you'd have a hard time washing them away eve if you wanted to.

 

I would like add that if you want to be thorough, there is nothing wrong with water resistant synthetic grease either.

There are some pretty cool water resistant synthetic greases out there.. you'd have a hard time washing them away eve if you wanted to.

I do not like using synthetic grease on modern vehicles because of the incompatibilty with teflon ball joints.

 

[FlashG]

Originally posted by: Roger

I would like add that if you want to be thorough, there is nothing wrong with water resistant synthetic grease either.

There are some pretty cool water resistant synthetic greases out there.. you'd have a hard time washing them away eve if you wanted to.

I do not like using synthetic grease on modern vehicles because of the incompatibilty with teflon ball joints.

Now that is GOOD advice. I don't want to replace the ball joints because the grease caused them to deteriorate faster than normal.

Roger Your hired

 

[Bulk Beef]

Originally posted by: Roger

I would like add that if you want to be thorough, there is nothing wrong with water resistant synthetic grease either.

There are some pretty cool water resistant synthetic greases out there.. you'd have a hard time washing them away eve if you wanted to.

I do not like using synthetic grease on modern vehicles because of the incompatibilty with teflon ball joints.

You need to start charging flat-rate for this stuff, Roger.

 

You need to start charging flat-rate for this stuff, Roger.

Naw, just knowing that I am passing on incorrect worthless info provides all the gratification I need

 

[db]

Originally posted by: FlashG
....I tore up the boots with my pickle fork and I need to replace them. Both joints are in excellent condition so I am not planning on replacing them now.

If anybody else is going to seperate Accord joints, you can buy the appropriate tool for about $12 (NOT a pickle fork), which will not ruin the rubber boots or risk damaging the joints.

 

[FlashG]

Originally posted by: db

Originally posted by: FlashG
....I tore up the boots with my pickle fork and I need to replace them. Both joints are in excellent condition so I am not planning on replacing them now.

If anybody else is going to seperate Accord joints, you can buy the appropriate tool for about $12 (NOT a pickle fork), which will not ruin the rubber boots or risk damaging the joints.

Where can you get a good tool for $12? I got best results with heat and a couple of taps from my BFH. Of course I replaced both boots & repacked them.

BTW, I finally got back into the car over the weekend. All the front spring & shock replacement required was to remove the 3 shock tower nuts from the engine compartment and the lower shock absorber bolt. In 2 hours I had replaced both front shocks, replaced the front ball joint and tie rod boots, LF CEV and caliper. A spring compressor was not required.

Not to bad for my first serious attempt on this car.

I didn't get to the rears yet but there is a definite improvement in ride and control with the front Neuspeed/Koni combination. Next weekend the rears will go in.

This car is so much fun that maybe Ill postpone getting a new TSX until the first of next year when the 240hp ?S? comes out. Or maybe a V6 Accord 6 speed. I haven?t made my mind up yet.

 

[TechnoKid]

Originally posted by: db

Originally posted by: FlashG
....I tore up the boots with my pickle fork and I need to replace them. Both joints are in excellent condition so I am not planning on replacing them now.

If anybody else is going to seperate Accord joints, you can buy the appropriate tool for about $12 (NOT a pickle fork), which will not ruin the rubber boots or risk damaging the joints.

What tool is this? Is this the specific tool from honda (I think it costs more than $12)?