Solutions/Opinions : CPU cooler backplace touches chassis

b4u

Golden Member
Nov 8, 2002
1,380
2
81
Hi,

I'm in the process of assembling my new PC, and I would like to share a problem I found, and ask for some opinions on ways to better sort things up.

The main parts:

Asus P8P67 EVO
Intel i5 2500K
Corsair A50 CPU cooler

Chieftec Dragon DG-01WD-U (my 7-year old current chassis)
versus
Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced


Now for the case, I was planning on using my current 7 year old mid-tower, the Chieftec Dragon DG-01WD-U.

I thought of a better cooler, because I'm planning to overclock in the future.

After I tested the cooler backplate on the mobo, I found that the backplate touched the mobo chassis tray, so I was not confortable with this ... and I brought home a Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced.

A quick look and fit test, and I found that the backplate opening on the mobo tray just isn't wide enough, and a part of the backplate is also hidden, and also touches the chassis. So I am very disappointed. I cannot pay 200€ for a PC case, and I cannot find any that allows me to fit a CPU cooler backplate without touching the chassis ... :(

At this point I'm facing the following options:

1# Just insert into the CM 690 chassis, let it touch the mobo tray and hope for the best;

2# If it still touches the chassis, I could opt to return the CM 690, and fit the stuff in the old chassis ... it has 1 80mm fan front (intake), and another in the back (exhaust), and I have room for another 80mm in front and on back ...

3# Cut the old chassis a window so that the backplate doesn't touch. It would be time consuming, and I would not end with a perfect cut, as I have no machinery to do it;

4# Just return the CM 690, and the A50 CPU cooler, and opt for; a) stock cooler b) another cooler that is as good or better than A50, but doesn't have backplate. This could potentially save me some money.


So can you give me your opinions on the matter?

Should I be better to replace A50 for a non-backplate option? Which one you recommend? It's a 1155 SandyBridge system.

Any chassis out there compatible with this 1155 mobo cpu location, for CPU cooler backplates?

It seems obvious to me that chassis manufacturers should provide a mobo tray that would be completely opened, with just a structure to hold the screws in place.


Thanks for opinions.
 
Last edited:

fffblackmage

Platinum Member
Dec 28, 2007
2,548
0
76
There should not be any problems with the backplate simply touching the chassis, unless it's actually preventing you from installing the mobo into the chassis properly.
 

dma0991

Platinum Member
Mar 17, 2011
2,723
1
0
If the back plate in any position touches slightly on the back panel or casing then it doesn't matter that much but if it puts a considerable amount pressure to your motherboard then do no use that cooler, return it for something else that fits properly.

There was a forumer who had the backplate was touching and the I/O panel and the I/O ports didn't line up. The board was taken out and it had warped slightly when placed on a flat surface.

If you can get it replaced for something that is cheaper and fits well, that is the best solution.
 

stahlhart

Super Moderator Graphics Cards
Dec 21, 2010
4,273
77
91
You probably just need slightly higher standoffs. Are you using the more or less "standard" brass 3/16" tall ones, and the backplate is still touching?
 

b4u

Golden Member
Nov 8, 2002
1,380
2
81
You probably just need slightly higher standoffs. Are you using the more or less "standard" brass 3/16" tall ones, and the backplate is still touching?


I'm using the gold screws that come with the case to mount the ATX mobo ... nothing different, as I also want the IO ports to align correctly at the back of the case.

I believe the mobo itself isn't very straight, because mounting without the backplace (just aligning to the mobo tray), the edge of the mobo, on the expansion cards part, it's about 3mm rise above the mounting screws.

I'm also considering the Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 ... don't know if it is any good, or if I'm better still with the stock cooler :(

What do you think about the temperatures? Is it worth it? Should it be good if refreshing a Sandy Bridge 2500K? It sells for about 25€, it's compatible with 1156 (so it should be 1155 too): http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/arctic_cooling_freezer_13/4.htm

Thanks.
 

BoomerD

No Lifer
Feb 26, 2006
65,604
13,982
146
Are you using these between the board and chassis?

21BJM6ZY5ML._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Your backing plate SHOULDN'T touch the chassis if you are.
 

Level_1

Member
Apr 21, 2011
37
0
0
Recently did a similar system(2600k, p8p67 deluxe, CM 690 II advance) but with a CM Hyper 212+ cooler and everything fit with no touching. Maybe give the 212+ a try.
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
2
81
Are you using these between the board and chassis?

21BJM6ZY5ML._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Your backing plate SHOULDN'T touch the chassis if you are.

Not necessarily. I just did a build for myself using a Lian Li PC-8FIR and the CPU backplate is so close to the motherboard tray that I'm not sure if it is touching or not, and yes there were standoffs.
 

b4u

Golden Member
Nov 8, 2002
1,380
2
81
Are you using these between the board and chassis?

21BJM6ZY5ML._SL500_AA300_.jpg


Your backing plate SHOULDN'T touch the chassis if you are.

Yes, I'm using them, the ones that came with the chassis itself, but still it's touching it. It's too bad, because I'd really like to use this cooler, and now I'm looking at some alternative with the same level of performance, and no backplate.
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
0
0
My standoffs are 6-32 male, 3mm x 0.5mm female. How dumb, they can't stack, or else I'd mail you some. Who dropped the ball on this standard?
 

SparkyJJO

Lifer
May 16, 2002
13,357
7
81
My standoffs are 6-32 male, 3mm x 0.5mm female. How dumb, they can't stack, or else I'd mail you some. Who dropped the ball on this standard?

Even if you did stack them, you'd have other issues. The I/O panel wouldn't line up, you couldn't screw in the video card since the bracket would be sitting away from the chassis...
 

stahlhart

Super Moderator Graphics Cards
Dec 21, 2010
4,273
77
91
My standoffs are 6-32 male, 3mm x 0.5mm female. How dumb, they can't stack, or else I'd mail you some. Who dropped the ball on this standard?

Looks like they're either going to be U.S. or metric threads, and the more-or-less agreed to height is 6.5mm. I did manage to find one in my parts bin that's about 7.5-8mm, though, and four that are just ever so slightly different in height from one another.

OP: are you absolutely certain that all of your standoffs are identical?
 

b4u

Golden Member
Nov 8, 2002
1,380
2
81
Looks like they're either going to be U.S. or metric threads, and the more-or-less agreed to height is 6.5mm. I did manage to find one in my parts bin that's about 7.5-8mm, though, and four that are just ever so slightly different in height from one another.

OP: are you absolutely certain that all of your standoffs are identical?

My standoffs are exactly like the ones pictured above ... the dimensions I haven't checked, I assumed that since they came with the case, they should be the exact dimension to align perfectly with the IO back panel.

One thing that also bothers me is the fact that one can buy a case with mobo tray opening to access the cooler backplate, just to find that the mobo has a different position for the CPU, so it get's partially blocked. Who the h3ll are the engineers that create these things? :(

This case put me a bit above my budget for the build, and still doesn't fit nicely with the components. :(

I'm thinking about changing my Corsair A50 CPU cooler for an Arctic Cooling Freezer 13, which has a similar retention mechanism of the intel stock cooler. Opinions?


Thanks
 

dma0991

Platinum Member
Mar 17, 2011
2,723
1
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Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 can use a regular push pin mounting because it is light enough compared to heavy coolers that needs their own bracket for rigidity and support.

The Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 would be 100% trouble free mounting for your case. Easiest solution other than changing your case to suit your heatsink bracket.
 

stahlhart

Super Moderator Graphics Cards
Dec 21, 2010
4,273
77
91
One thing that also bothers me is the fact that one can buy a case with mobo tray opening to access the cooler backplate, just to find that the mobo has a different position for the CPU, so it get's partially blocked. Who the h3ll are the engineers that create these things? :(

My assumption was that they lined it up for X58 motherboards with triple channel RAM -- 1155 is two fewer DIMM slots, so everything shifted towards the back a bit. I'm never actually seen an X58 board in person, so I couldn't confirm it.

I wanted this case for several other reasons, so I just accepted that I'd have to pull the motherboard out if I ever needed to deal with the CPU cooler. It was either that or the Dremel tool. D:
 

b4u

Golden Member
Nov 8, 2002
1,380
2
81
My assumption was that they lined it up for X58 motherboards with triple channel RAM -- 1155 is two fewer DIMM slots, so everything shifted towards the back a bit. I'm never actually seen an X58 board in person, so I couldn't confirm it.

I wanted this case for several other reasons, so I just accepted that I'd have to pull the motherboard out if I ever needed to deal with the CPU cooler. It was either that or the Dremel tool. D:

Uhm ... I see you have a case just like the one I have.

Are you happy with it?

How does the filters help dust staying out?

Does the dust accumulate on the front mesh? In a visible way? I ask this because the filter is just behind the front mesh, so there is no room to get some dust without immediate notice.

Does the bottom PSU mounting sucks many dust from behind?


Thanks
 

stahlhart

Super Moderator Graphics Cards
Dec 21, 2010
4,273
77
91
It's probably still too early for me to talk about dust issues at this point -- my build is only about a month old, and I'm still working on the wire management (sleeving everything), so I have both side panels off.

I really like the case so far. Only real issue I've had at this point is the tight fit for the SATA cables, as the Maximus board extends over the wire pass-through holes, those oval openings, about three quarters of an inch or so. I was originally going to go with round SATA cables, but had to revert back to flat ones because of this... the connectors on round cables are too long, and it was jamming the cable bends into the drive bay pillar.

The filter meshes are probably going to accumulate dust after a while, if it's anything like my last case -- though then again it might not, as there is a lot of screening around the top/bottom/front, and you're not drawing all of the outside air through concentrated openings.
 

b4u

Golden Member
Nov 8, 2002
1,380
2
81
I'm looking at this moment to the NZXT H2 BLACK (for 95€) which looks very good on paper.

On the plus side:
- no problem for 1155 CPU cooler backplate, as the opening is a bit more wide and I say some pics of these mountings, and seem to have no problem at all
- 2x 120mm fans in front, 1x 120mm back exaust, 1x 140mm top exaust (optional)
- nice dust filters for bottom, and front fans, easily removable
- top sata2 hdd dock, that can also be closed (with disk inside)
- USB3.0 port
- top exaust can be covered if not used
- front and side panels have a foam to reduce noise
- overall, nice looks

On the down side:
- doesn't have an e-sata connector next to USB3.0 and USB 2.0 ports
- front fans don't provide RPM connection signal to mobo
- hdd internal cage cannot be partially removed
- hdd internal cage is not sideways with sata connectors facing the mobo tray side
- don't like the fan controller, I would prefer to send signal to mobo and be able to control it other way
- 5.25" bay covers are easily removable, but they do not have mesh with dust filter for easier airflow


Anyone has opinion on this case?

I was also looking into Termaltake Element S for 105€, which has some nice stuff, but other that I dislike, for example the looks and lack of USB3.0 for this price range.

I'm looking to see if there is a good alternative to the CM 690 II advanced (for 90€) that would better serve my build.