So, what torque wrench should I get?

[shocksyde]

I'm going to be doing some work to my car this weekend (I finally said screw the mechanic except for big jobs).

Anyone have suggestions on a torque wrench? One that accepts your standard sockets. I'm not looking to break the bank, here.

Also, If I'm going to be replacing brake pads and rotors, is there anything I'll need besides what's in this list?

- Torque Wrench
- C-Clamp to depress caliper piston
- Brake Cleaner
- "Mechanics" tool set with all the necessary socket sizes

Thanks!

 

[steppinthrax]

Originally posted by: shocksyde
I'm going to be doing some work to my car this weekend (I finally said screw the mechanic except for big jobs).

Anyone have suggestions on a torque wrench? One that accepts your standard sockets. I'm not looking to break the bank, here.

Also, If I'm going to be replacing brake pads and rotors, is there anything I'll need besides what's in this list?

- Torque Wrench
- C-Clamp to depress caliper piston
- Brake Cleaner
- "Mechanics" tool set with all the necessary socket sizes

Thanks!

You don't really need a torque wrench if your just doing brakes. The only bolts that you need to be careful about are the caliper bracket bolts and they just need to be tight. You only really need it if you?re doing engine/transmission or something where torque really matters.

But if you hell-bent on it you can rent a torque wrench from AutoZone or Advance Auto. If you want to buy one I would go with Snap-On. Craftsman doesn?t have a lifetime warranty on their torque wrenches. A torque wrench can also become out of calibration and you need to check its ?trueness? every couple of years. Almost all torque wrenches will be either ½? 3/8? or 1?. You probably want to get 3/8?.

If you have rear disc you can?t use a C-clamp for them you must turn the piston until it bottoms out. There is a special tool that looks like a cube that fits into your wrench that accomplishes this.

 

[NutBucket]

Uh, if you check, Snap-on doesn't warranty the calibration of their torque wrenches for more than a year or two either. Just stick with Craftsman. You're not building racing engines; it'll be fine for years.

 

[iamwiz82]

Originally posted by: NutBucket
Uh, if you check, Snap-on doesn't warranty the calibration of their torque wrenches for more than a year or two either. Just stick with Craftsman. You're not building racing engines; it'll be fine for years.

I have a couple of cheapies from Harbor Freight. Sure the calibration might be off, but all of the shop manuals I have for my cars have a fairly big range of torque settings, so I just aim in the middle.

 

[shocksyde]

Ah, even better, don't have to get one!

I've got drums in the back, I'm not doing those this weekend. I want to get the front done first because it's my understanding that they're much easier.

Thanks for your help!

 

[boomerang]

Originally posted by: steppinthrax

Originally posted by: shocked
I'm going to be doing some work to my car this weekend (I finally said screw the mechanic except for big jobs).

Anyone have suggestions on a torque wrench? One that accepts your standard sockets. I'm not looking to break the bank, here.

Also, If I'm going to be replacing brake pads and rotors, is there anything I'll need besides what's in this list?

- Torque Wrench
- C-Clamp to depress caliper piston
- Brake Cleaner
- "Mechanics" tool set with all the necessary socket sizes

Thanks!

You don't really need a torque wrench if your just doing brakes.

This is such bad advice that I almost can't believe it.

You absolutely do need a torque wrench. If the lug nuts aren't tightened to the proper torque, it's a near certainty to warp brake rotors. Drums are made so thin these days that they can easily be warped too.

You can do the job without one, but chances are extremely high you'll be doing it again. And if you don't torque the lugs, you'll just get to keep on doing it.

Get a torque wrench.

 

[shocksyde]

Originally posted by: boomerang
You absolutely do need a torque wrench. If the lug nuts aren't tightened to the proper torque, it's a near certainty to warp brake rotors. Drums are made so thin these days that they can easily be warped too.

You can do the job without one, but chances are extremely high you'll be doing it again. And if you don't torque the lugs, you'll just get to keep on doing it.

Get a torque wrench.

Aw, shucks. I figure it would come in handy in the future anyways, so I may as well get one now. Does Home Depot or Lowes sell half-decent ones? As stated above, I'm not tuning racing engines or anything.

 

[NutBucket]

Sure, I have a Husky myself.

 

[boomerang]

Originally posted by: shocksyde

Originally posted by: boomerang
You absolutely do need a torque wrench. If the lug nuts aren't tightened to the proper torque, it's a near certainty to warp brake rotors. Drums are made so thin these days that they can easily be warped too.

You can do the job without one, but chances are extremely high you'll be doing it again. And if you don't torque the lugs, you'll just get to keep on doing it.

Get a torque wrench.

Aw, shucks. I figure it would come in handy in the future anyways, so I may as well get one now. Does Home Depot or Lowes sell half-decent ones? As stated above, I'm not tuning racing engines or anything.

I wouldn't get real concerned about the brand. It's for occasional use as you've said. What's important is that the lugs are all tightened to the same torque value. Any one you buy will be able to hold a tolerance that will be close enough. Most lugs are tightened to 100 ft/lbs but your owners manual will most likely give you the specific torque value.

Assuming it's 100 ft/lbs, I will typically tighten the first time around to say, 60 ft/lbs. I use an air imact for this dialed way down so I am not certain of the exact value. The next time to 100.

Tighten in a cross pattern. Both times. I go around a third time in a circular manner to ensure they are all at the same torque. Usually the first one you tightened in the cross pattern will be just a tiny bit under spec. You can get as anal as you want with this, but in my opinion, this is as anal as you need to be.

Your analness may vary.

 

[dwcal]

Some people like the beam-type torque wrench better. They're cheap, simple and easy to calibrate by tweaking the needle. I'm pretty sure the Craftsman beam torque wrench has a lifetime warranty, unlike the click-type.

It's really personal preference. I have a Craftsman beam type 3/8 and a no-name click type 1/2.

 

[Fenixgoon]

you can rent a brake caliper kit from autozone and the like.

check to make sure you don't need any bits (i needed a hex bit socket set for working on my passat)

 

[CaptnKirk]

Just get a beam type

We (Space Programs) consider that a mechanical torque wrench is accurate and repeatable only to +/- 30% of range and indicated value.
So don't spend any more than a minimum, as the difference between them is minimal, calibration values are lost in the background scatter.

 

[cardiac]

This would work just fine for almost everything you'll run across: Craftsman 1/2" 0-150 ft/lbs Torque Wrench for $29.99

I actually have one of these that is about 30 years old and works fine.....

Bob

 

[shocksyde]

Thanks everyone you've been quite helpful!

 

[rstrohkirch]

I use a 1/2" 10-150ft/lbs and a 1/4" 20-200in/lbs from Harbor Freight, both of which I'm happy with.

 

[SilthDraeth]

I wouldn't buy anything from harbor freight. I got some Kobalt tools from Lowes, they are made by the same company that makes Craftsman, and I am pretty sure they are identical. It will probably still cost you a bit much, but its needed. As for how to tighten the stuff down... Always follow the pattern the book tells you, normally a star pattern, so using the face of the clock, you would go: 2, 8, 10, 4. Also, you want to move in increments of 10-15 lbs, and at least three, to 5 rotations on each bolt. So, if you want a 100 lbs of torque then snug tighten with a standard ratchet, then go 60, 75, 90, 100. Follow the pattern at each bolt, before you increase the lbs, and don't tug, use steady pressure. At the last rating, 100lbs, you go the full circuit, then, if you are real meticulous, you go one more rotation at that torque before you quit.