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So this is a little scary... (loose brake caliper)

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I figure either they lied the first time when they said they replaced all of the caliper bolts, or Ford potentially has a serious issue. But since I didn't really get much results upon googling it, Ford is probably fine and they either lied to me or somehow mucked it up when they replaced them. I wish I had checked them all when I took it in the first time

Didn't hear back today, will call in the AM. They've had it now for 29 business hours to replace a bolt. Maybe they're looking into it more.


I wasn't able to find the previous work documents, I'll call the office first to see if they have old records they could send me, to back up that they supposedly replaced all the caliper bolts less than 30k miles ago
 
maybe.

a well designed and assembled joint wont need it.

Pretty much every European car I've ever worked on has had red loctite (or an equivalent) on the suspension/subframe bolts from the factory and the repair manuals are very clear about using new bolts and new thread locker when re-assembling.

ZV
 
I figure either they lied the first time when they said they replaced all of the caliper bolts, or Ford potentially has a serious issue. But since I didn't really get much results upon googling it, Ford is probably fine and they either lied to me or somehow mucked it up when they replaced them. I wish I had checked them all when I took it in the first time

Didn't hear back today, will call in the AM. They've had it now for 29 business hours to replace a bolt. Maybe they're looking into it more.


I wasn't able to find the previous work documents, I'll call the office first to see if they have old records they could send me, to back up that they supposedly replaced all the caliper bolts less than 30k miles ago

It's not a common problem as far as I've seen. Maybe torque spec is too low? Not sure if Ford uses lock tight on them or not. Not positive but think they might have a faint yellow?

I used to work with a guy who had 5 or 6 come back on a tow truck like that. He would always make a stupid excuse like defective lock tight, bolts to cover up. Unfortunately his son in law was the manager at the time....He'd say something stupid like " I guess we'd learn from our mistakes "....Go figure!

Your not one of those crazy drivers that uses the ebrake to slow down, drift, forgets to take it off at times, etc. are you?
 
Pretty much every European car I've ever worked on has had red loctite (or an equivalent) on the suspension/subframe bolts from the factory and the repair manuals are very clear about using new bolts and new thread locker when re-assembling.

ZV
Not the case for every Japanese car I've worked on...and my brakes have never fallen off LOL
 
Got the old work order from the first go around, nothing to document that they replaced all the bolts or machined the rotor, just installed new bolt and pads.

Called the shop to get an update, turns out the bolt they need is backordered until November 2.

They're trying to get Ford's part division to find them an alternative part number. Meanwhile, I ordered two of the right bolt from two different websites that should be here Friday that I'll just take them if they don't have one already. If they do have one by then, well it looks like I could probably use a couple of spares lying around
 
Pretty much every European car I've ever worked on has had red loctite (or an equivalent) on the suspension/subframe bolts from the factory and the repair manuals are very clear about using new bolts and new thread locker when re-assembling.

ZV

Ditto for my BMW's caliper bolts. They are loctited in and manual says to replace them when reassembling.

germans over complicate everything.

Like I said, a well designed joint will have a torque spec high enough that it should not loosen.

loose bolts = sheared bolts.
 
Not the case for every Japanese car I've worked on...and my brakes have never fallen off LOL

same here no threadlocker on my honda or my nissan and the calipers never loosened over time and use. it makes me think the bolts were never properly torqued in the first place at the factory. the dealer should have at least checked all the calipers and inspected for loose bolts. In fact when i replaced the front brake pads on my honda i used some antiseize on the threads and the bolts never loosened.
 
germans over complicate everything.

My Volvos are German now? Interesting.

Like I said, a well designed joint will have a torque spec high enough that it should not loosen.

Yes, because there's no possible way that engineers could come up with many different solutions to the same issue, all of which would qualify as "properly designed". Nope. Completely impossible. There's only one "proper" way, the way dictated by you, some random guy on the internet.

ZV
 
Not the case for every Japanese car I've worked on...and my brakes have never fallen off LOL

I haven't seen it on Japanese cars (or American cars, for that matter) either, nor on my Japanese or American motorcycles.

Euro manufacturers seem to love it though. That and torx. So many torx bolts on Volvos.

ZV
 
I once finger-tightened those bolts on one of the S2000's calipers with the intent to return and torque them to spec after bleeding the brakes. I forgot to torque them. Both bolts backed out 15 miles later and the caliper fell loose to the inside of the rim! Luckily no harm and AAA towed me back home. I had to order new bolts to replace the ones that fell out, but mostly it was my manly pride that was injured. Taught me an obvious lesson to complete each task before starting the next and double check every single thing you touch before you drive the car again.

I'm betting whoever last worked on your brakes made the same mistake.
 
I'm betting like some there probably was a bolt in that hole but it just backed off because it never got tightened enough. Same concept with lug nuts, not enough torque, they WILL back off (too much you'll bust a stud).

I use an impact wrench and torque the piss out of my caliper bolts. Better safe than sorry when it comes to stopping.
 
My Volvos are German now? Interesting.



Yes, because there's no possible way that engineers could come up with many different solutions to the same issue, all of which would qualify as "properly designed". Nope. Completely impossible. There's only one "proper" way, the way dictated by you, some random guy on the internet.

ZV

you seem very defensive, and didnt mention it was a volvo in your first post, the other guy mentioned a bmw... so sorry for the generality. hope your feelings arent hurt.
 
I haven't seen it on Japanese cars (or American cars, for that matter) either, nor on my Japanese or American motorcycles.

Euro manufacturers seem to love it though. That and torx. So many torx bolts on Volvos.

ZV

see it a lot on chevy's cars and trucks wheel bearing bolts and caliper anchor bracket bolts.

also volkswagen loves the shit out of tri-square bolts.

oh how i hate them so.
 
Torx I like!

I like them for interior bolts/screws. I do not like them in the engine bay where they are invariably filled with dirt and crud and are a pain to clean out. A T27 internal Torx has no business in an environment where it's likely to get filled with crud.

also volkswagen loves the shit out of tri-square bolts.

oh how i hate them so.

Ugh. The internal triple-square bolts on the CV joints on my 951...

ZV
 
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The Trans drain bolt on many Subarus is a T70. Funny since there aren't any other torx fasteners on the car that I've noticed.
 
The Trans drain bolt on many Subarus is a T70. Funny since there aren't any other torx fasteners on the car that I've noticed.

Probably so it's more difficult for an ill-informed owner to accidentally drain the transmission instead of the engine.

ZV
 
I would force them to replace the hubs, calipers, pads and rotors all the way around. If this has happened more than once, it needs to be done. This is a major safety issue and your life could be at stake. I would have raised hell the first time it happened, a second time is unacceptable. They need to replace everything that touches the brake caliper and it all needs to be brand new. Do not settle for anything less.

If the media found out about this issue, they would be dead in the water. It needs to be done right.
 
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Probably so it's more difficult for an ill-informed owner to accidentally drain the transmission instead of the engine.

ZV


Its exactly for that reason. Not just ill-informed owners, lube techs as well. Subarus used to have a normal hex-head drain bolt on their transmission pans. This was also back before multi-vehicle synthetic trans fluid so either you had to use the cheesy additive bottles or get the fluid straight from the dealer. Customers were being stranded at oil change shops when they didn't have fluid to put back in or didn't know how to.
 
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