They test the out of the box experience.
Which is another way of saying the are extremely biased in Apple's favor. iOS's entire philosophy is out of the box experience. That is the polar opposite for Android. Best Android smartphone out right now? The GSIII. Check how many Android users are using the travesty that is the latest version of TouchWiz.
On newer devices the browser isn't an issue, for older devices not using Opera/Firefox and instead using the default browser was a major hinderance and one that wouldn't be a factor to almost anyone reading this site. The browser downloads are each in the tens of millions- it's not like I'm talking about some fringe group here.
The launcher issue is also another area that the tech enthusiasts, the ones that would actually read AT, would also swap out. A stock UI sucks and is clunky and slow? Say as much, then put a decent launcher on it and let us know how it performs.
Pretty much, AT is doing reviews exactly how every iOS devotee would want them done, and providing minimal useful information for Android users(this is better now with newer devices since Google fixed the horrid stock browser). This very clearly shows that they are out of touch/don't understand the Android market. This is mainly a reflection of them not using the devices on a regular basis which is clearly obvious in most of their reviews.
I'm not saying don't let us know how things work out of the box, I think that is important so people know how much they need to fix when they get their devices. I'm just saying they should also show you how you would actually use the phone if you were to buy it, that is done for the overwhelming majority of iOS users, but not for Android users that would read an AT article.
Then have a separate review where they take the cream of the Android crop and test the browsers on it. But based on this thread it seems to me that the best Android browser isn't actually available on most Android devices, so what's the point?
Opera *obliterates* the stock pre ICS browser. It is a comical difference in performance.