So I ran my Engine without Coolant...

[WhoBeDaPlaya]

and enforcement starts here in the AT garage......
I can see it now-
Look it here boys, we have another one guttin' cats and postin' about it. let's go get 'em

It's okay. jlee is less "WEEOOOUUU WEEOOOUUU" and more "PSSSSSHHH" nowadays

 

[MongGrel]

If the engine block or head is aluminum, you probably warped the head. Probably a blown head gasket as well. Hopefully coolant did not get into the oil, or your main bearings will also be shot. A leakdown test can show a mechanic how bad everything is likely to be.

This.

And this.

You drove it around with no coolant, then idled it for an hour, and then drove it again? Eek

 

[MongGrel]

Updates:

No. Everything was fine, I had to teach a class that was an hour long and left my Key FOB at home. So I left my car idling (In perfect condition) for an hour. I jumped in the car and about 5 minutes later Limp mode enabled.

Radiator was cracked, so I replaced that. The cats were clogged from all the fuel dumping into the engine, it ruined my cat. Car was still in limp mode so I pulled the Cats off and gutted them. Now it runs aside from my misfire and horrible gas mileage.

Changed the oil...it looked fine. Testing will start monday.

GL, if everything you said originally was true, I see more posts in the future to be honest.

 

[sontakke]

He must have a keyless start stop in his car. To start the car, it needs to have the fob inside the vehicle. If you take the fob outside while the car is running, it will beep for a while but will keep on running until you want to restart it.

 

[BUTCH1]

He must have a keyless start stop in his car. To start the car, it needs to have the fob inside the vehicle. If you take the fob outside while the car is running, it will beep for a while but will keep on running until you want to restart it.

If that's the case I would stash a key somewhere in the vehicle in case the FOB breaks or it's battery dies.

 

[John68040]

From memory a lot of the newer Nissans don't even have a keyhole for the ignition, just a pushbutton.

Also if you're within range with the fob - someone can push the button on the doorhandle to unlock it, start the car, and drive off. And they can keep driving it until they shut it off.

I drove a car in the shop to put tires on it, pulled it out and parked it, another guy drove it in to do the alignment, then back out in the parking lot. All while the customer was sitting in the waiting room with the key fob in his pocket. The car was started 30ft away from him. And I saw my old landlord drive his Altima home and shut it off only to realize his key fob fell off the roof 30 miles away.

And to stay on topic, I'd be willing to bet you warped at least one of the heads in your car.

 

[Magusigne]

From memory a lot of the newer Nissans don't even have a keyhole for the ignition, just a pushbutton.

Also if you're within range with the fob - someone can push the button on the doorhandle to unlock it, start the car, and drive off. And they can keep driving it until they shut it off.

I drove a car in the shop to put tires on it, pulled it out and parked it, another guy drove it in to do the alignment, then back out in the parking lot. All while the customer was sitting in the waiting room with the key fob in his pocket. The car was started 30ft away from him. And I saw my old landlord drive his Altima home and shut it off only to realize his key fob fell off the roof 30 miles away.

And to stay on topic, I'd be willing to bet you warped at least one of the heads in your car.

Bingo. My wife and I had a baby 3 days prior, so I was running on like 5 hours of sleep in the last 4 days, had to teach.

At any rate, it had coolant when I got to school.

We'll see, I'll keep you guys posted..I always hate people that never update with the resolutions of what happened.

I've purchased new plugs, back coils..we'll see...

 

[sontakke]

Given your situation, you really should be doing the compression test, leakdown tests, chemical test (to see compression gases in the coolant etc) before spending any money on the new parts. The chances of coil burning out because the engine ran without the coolant are very low. On the other hand, the chances of actual engine damage are higher. I understand the tendency to hope for the best and try to throw parts but in this case the parts are more expensive than the tools to find the cause. Either a compression tester or the chemical tester would be less than the single OEM coil for that engine.

 

[BUTCH1]

Given your situation, you really should be doing the compression test, leakdown tests, chemical test (to see compression gases in the coolant etc) before spending any money on the new parts. The chances of coil burning out because the engine ran without the coolant are very low. On the other hand, the chances of actual engine damage are higher. I understand the tendency to hope for the best and try to throw parts but in this case the parts are more expensive than the tools to find the cause. Either a compression tester or the chemical tester would be less than the single OEM coil for that engine.

Good advise there, the chances of a coil pack failing at the exact same time when you ran it without coolant are very low, if you can't do it yourself pay a shop to do a compression/leak-down test before you wind up throwing good $ after bad $

 

[LTC8K6]

Besides, he can just do a coil swap, and not buy new coil packs.

 

[sontakke]

He already purchased coils and plugs!

 

[LTC8K6]

He already purchased coils and plugs!

Well, I told him in post #5... :biggrin:

 

[sontakke]

I do not believe he heeded to any suggestion posted here. Let's see how many new parts he has thrown after running the car without any coolant

New radiator
New coolant
New catalytic converter (wink wink)
New coils
New plugs

 

[slag]

I don't know that I'd be inclined to dump any more money into it. An 8 year old car isn't worth very much if nothing is wrong and if I were in the market for a used car this would 100% rule it out as an option even if it was free!

Sometimes, to steel a word from Patranus, you get doxed -- maybe time to cut your loses...


Brian

I don't know. My 7 yr old truck still books around 19k.

EDIT.. was wrong according to Nada. I can't believe this is correct, but it shows clean retail is $27.5k

 

[Jimzz]

I don't know. My 7 yr old truck still books around 19k.

EDIT.. was wrong according to Nada. I can't believe this is correct, but it shows clean retail is $27.5k

Yep gas price down truck price up. Never fails.

My truck has gone up in value in the last year as well. Last 3 trucks I sold I sold for more than I paid.

 

[Magusigne]

I do not believe he heeded to any suggestion posted here. Let's see how many new parts he has thrown after running the car without any coolant

New radiator
New coolant
New catalytic converter (wink wink)
New coils
New plugs

I bought the coils and plugs based on my hopeful thinking. There is a 60 day return policy so if it turns out the engine is damages then they will go back and will not go in

The Radiator and coolant, along with the "converter" were necessary to get the car running. The car is now driveable at least. It was not driveable before. The radiator had a huge crack in it. The radiator was the initial cause.

To run a nice block test and compression test (not chemical) the labor is exactly the same as changing the plugs and coils, so why not have them on hand and get them all done for the same price

 

[sontakke]

Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector is under $35 and involves removing radiator cap only.

 

[Magusigne]

Update: All Cylinders hold good pressure. One is about 10 psig lower. Pulled the plugs..2 are fouled. Replaced the coils on the back anyways.

Everything is fixed. No engine damage. Booya!

 

[BUTCH1]

Update: All Cylinders hold good pressure. One is about 10 psig lower. Pulled the plugs..2 are fouled. Replaced the coils on the back anyways.

Everything is fixed. No engine damage. Booya!

Good news, now keep an eye on oil level over the next few months just to be on the safe side.