Originally posted by: exdeath
Originally posted by: amdhunter
Originally posted by: Pacfanweb
You should never rev the engine up near the redline during a burnout, either. Very bad for the engine to be spun up that high with little to no load.
I splattered an engine doing a burnout once. Not pretty.
OK, so let's say I want to take off hard, like if I am trying to race someone in a straight line. I know I am not supposed to take off at redline, but what would be a safe RPM to go ahead and release the clutch.
For example, I know the turbo in my car is useless until it's in the 4kRPM range. Would it be bad to take off around 3500 RPMs and dropping the clutch to take off?
<-- total n00b. I am sure I can "feel" this all out on my own, but I don't want to do something dumb like that kid in the video I posted.
Uhm.. it's easy... just step on the gas. Burnouts and peel outs are intended to flex peens and demonstrate raw un-containable power. If you have the power that makes you worthy of burning out, you simply step on the gas and let the car overpower the wheels and thats all there is to it.
But if you have to dump the clutch from a stop or mess with the brake in order to coerce the car to chirp the tires, you will be embarrassing yourself by acting like a ricer and defeating the whole purpose of performing any kind of wheel spin, as you will be demonstrating LACK of power that necessitates those tactics; the exact opposite of what is intended when smoking the tires (on the street on a normal car anyway).
It shouldn't be that hard. Most V6 economy cars with 200+ HP have enough low end torque to squeal the tires across the intersection if you put it through the floor boards (provided electronic torque steer and traction control aids do not intervene).
BTW wheel spin launching on a race may sound cool and put on a show, but it is undesirable in a race and will cause you to lose, even to a slower car.
What you need for a boosted car is a 2 step rev limiter. When activated in staging mode, you can hold you're foot to the floor and the engine will hold at the designated RPM (say 4500 RPM in your case to keep you in boost when the RPMs bog slightly as you launch). After you launch it will automatically go into the second stage, which is your normal red line rev limiter. Hence two stage. You can also get a 3 stage limiter that has a lower RPM rev limit for the burnout, a mid level rev limit for staging, and a upper red limit limiter that protects the engine. Most newer cars only have the last one from the factory in the form of timing retard or staggered fuel cut and intentional misfires.
If you have an automatic you need a stall torque converter that lets the engine freewheel at a certain RPM before engaging (again, ideally a few RPMs into your boost threshold) when you floor it with your foot on the brake.
If you're having trouble spinning and still want to do it, and don't care what anyone around thinks, you can just do what ricers do and do it in patches of dirt or after it rains
Shorter gearing also helps. Most average cars, esp. FWD 4 cyl sedans, have really tall gears for freeway cruising and fuel economy, and combined with the lack of low RPM torque in a 4 cyl, makes it almost impossible. Ever take off on a 21 spd mountain bike in the highest gear up hill? Thats what the engine feels like.
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