snowblower won't self-propel

[rh71]

It's a craftsman brand in the $285 range I bought a few years ago. When I first brought it home it worked great - but now I can't recall the last time it self-propelled. In the manual it doesn't mention any switches... it says if I pull the bar back (just like a lawn mower), the auger will move, and it will also self-propel. Not the case... it throws snow fine, the auger moves, but it itself doesn't move forward. Is the auger supposed to be propelling it or is there another component?

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

pics of machine?

 

[geno]

I don't know a ton about snowblowers, despite owning one, but I think the auger has its own clutch while the driveline has another clutch. Maybe that clutch went out?

 

[PottedMeat]

broken shear pin?

 

[BoomerD]

Post the model numbers and maybe we can find you a manual.

 

[OUCaptain]

Is the auger supposed to be propelling it or is there another component?

How would the auger do that? The tires or track drive the machine. Start with the cable that connects to the bar and work your way down. Somewhere, it will connect to the drive mechanism.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

hard to say w/o model numbers.

 

[theknight571]

The Craftsman model I have has two bars... one for the auger and one for the drive.

Do you have it in gear?

I have a choice of 6-7 different speeds... or neutral.

 

[rh71]

looks like the drive belt may have been loose... I slid a small plastic bar (held by a nut) outward more to create more tension on the drive cable... I'll test it when more snow falls. BTW, the manual states "auger-propelled"... the wheels on it are free-spinning so it appears the auger does drive it - it has rubber at the end of the "teeth" for grip I suppose.

 

[dartworth]

sometimes that flux capacitor needs replacing...you can get a rebuilt one fairly cheap

 

[BoomerD]

looks like the drive belt may have been loose... I slid a small plastic bar (held by a nut) outward more to create more tension on the drive cable... I'll test it when more snow falls. BTW, the manual states "auger-propelled"... the wheels on it are free-spinning so it appears the auger does drive it - it has rubber at the end of the "teeth" for grip I suppose.

From the sounds of it, there's only one "clutch" that engages both the auger and the drivers, and most likely, if the belt that connects the two isn't tight enough, the pulley that turns the wheels will spin with no torque to the drivers. Tightening it MIGHT work, or you may need to replace the belt.

 

[Dubb]

with most snow blowers I've seen you don't want the auger making more than the slightest contact with the cement because that'll wear the auger blades down. "auger propelled" sounds like a horrible idea.

So the auger may have worn down from too much contact with the cement. You can replace parts of the auger and consider them a consumable that needs occasional replacement, or you can replace them and then adjust things so that the auger sits just above the cement, minimizing wear. The latter means you have to push.

 

[BoomerD]

Waidaminit...the auger itself moves the snowblower? That just sounds...wrong...and potentially dangerous.

 

[Ika]

Yeah, I don't think a snowblower is supposed to self-propel in the first place.

 

[mpo]

I had an old Toro two-stroke single-stage snowblower with the same 'feature'. When the rubber flaps on the auger would wear down, the blower would stop self-propelling.

 

[geno]

That sounds like a horrible cost-cutting measure if the blower is propelled by the auger making contact with the ground in one form or another. *hugs his Ariens*

 

[rh71]

^ yeah like I mentioned it was a cheaper model - with the 3 snowfalls we get a year, I wasn't going to spend $600 on one. This has been a snow-rific year though.

 

[bruceb]

On most snow throwers (at least Snapper) there are 2 drive belts.
1 drives the transfer case to power the auger. Shear pins are on the Auger Shaft and if one or both should break, it will stop throwing snow on that side of the auger. This is to prevent breakage of the machine if it hits something very hard. The other drives the wheels thru some mechanism to select speed and direction.

 

[Crucial]

http://product-images.imshopping.com/product/craftsman-123cc-29-path-onestage-snowblower-large.jpg
Does it look like that? At $285 this has to be a rubber paddle based single stage. I'd be willing to bet that it needs new paddles. If it's throwing snow the paddles are moving fast enough so it's not the belt. Your auger is either a full rubber blade or a metal blade with rubber tips. I have a Toro single stage with full rubber paddles and I have to replace them every other season.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

sometimes that flux capacitor needs replacing...you can get a rebuilt one fairly cheap

also check that you are for sure getting 1.21 gigawatts!

 

[JulesMaximus]

Snow? What is this snow of which ye speak?

 

[kage69]

Sounds like a belt issue to me.

Shear pins aren't used on the drive train, they're on the auger's axle to spare your engine when you gag the intake with a rock or something.

Those Craftsman blowers are trouble. Sell it and get an Ariens, you'll be happy you did. Mine has 3 gnarly winters under it's belt, has never had one issue, and at 12hp throws snow about twice as my buddy's 16hp MTD.

 

[bruceb]

Ariens are not bad, but I prefer Snapper myself. I only have a 6HP unit and it is usually quite adequate for here in NJ. Now if I was living in Maine, Michigan or areas of NY where they get a lot more snow, then maybe the 12HP or more would be a nice option.

 

[rh71]

well it ran fine with a tightened belt now... only problem left is the snow gets jammed in the chute when the snow is a bit slushy/heavy. It's only 4hp. And it's got hard plastic blades with rubber tips. At least it's been ok running for 4 or so years now. Not skimping on the next one now that I know what's important.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Snowblower...pshhh, you pussy, real man drive 4x4 crew cab dually with plow attached.