Smoke from new computer, should I continue to build it?

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.

Creston

Member
Mar 28, 2005
82
0
0
Originally posted by: Grimbor
Playing around with my system, it is very likely I was mistaken about putting the dimm in backwards because I can't replicate doing that with both tabs snapping in place, plus both dimms show burn damage. I do see a melted spot on the MB dimm slot that corresponds to the burn mark on the worst burnt ram chip, so it seems they were in fact installed the correct way. I just assumed I may have installed them backwards because when I researched why a dimm would burn up like that, it seemed backwards installation was the cause in all cases.

You CAN'T put a DIMM in backwards without applying absolutely inhuman amounts of strength. You'd basically be forcing the bridge right through solid material. I doubt many people would even be capable of such a feat.


To cover a few other things. I was not as incompetent as my original post may have sounded. When I said I got thermal paste all over while struggling with the HS, I meant by the time I got the heatsink snapped in place, the CPU was already covered by the default thermal paste AMD puts on their heatsink, but it was only spread on the CPU and seemed pretty uniform. I wasn't grinding the heattsink side to side or touching the paste, in fact I was even wearing surgical gloves when building. The lever I was talking about pulling in the end was not the CPU lever as someone else assumed, it was the lever for the heatsink to latch it into place.

It wouldn't have caused burns on your DIMMs. And thanks for explaining that lever bit :)


Now, another post has me a bit worried as well because I did match the arrows on the CPU with the MB and followed the limited MB directions in placement of the CPU, but now I am wondering it it went in the right way. I did line up the triangle with the triangle on the MB and the CPU dropped fully in place with gravity, and the CPU lever went down with no problem, but am still a bit worried it went down correctly.

If you lined up the triangle on the CPU with the one on the mobo, and it slid in without problem, then it's fine. It was just the taiwanese genius who wrote my manual who apparently can't figure it out.


A friend suggested taking a dimm from my old system and trying it out to see if the machine will post, but this presents another concern. Since the original dimms seemed to be in place right, I may well burn out my old dimm testing it. And maybe the problem isnt my MB but instead the 450 watt L&C PSU that came with the case.

I wouldn't do that. Whether it was the mobo or the DIMM's that were at fault, it'd be VERY risky to put yet another DIMM in...
I would just call them and see what they can do for an RMA.
It could be a PSU issue, if the PSU sends way too much power through the 20/24 pins connector, but it would have fried several other items long before it ever got around to frying your DIMMs.

Last problem is even if I try and RMA the MB, I cant get the heatsink off, it's just too tightly affixed. Even using a screwdriver, I still can't get enough force on it to get the clip off the MB fastener, and I'm really afraid if I go all out in forcing it I'll either crack the MB, crack the CPU chip or the screwdriver will slip out and slam into the MB.

That might be a bit of an issue yeah... Not much advice I can give you there except to try to leverage it bit by bit. (having someone help might be advisable).
You won't crack the CPU, but I've seen motherboards snap under the pressure of the heatsink, so you do want to be careful.


Really, I was pretty careful putting this thing together, I just don't have the knowledge to troubleshoot when things go wrong like they have.

Try to get the heatsink off again, and call about a motherboard RMA. If you really can't get it off, you could talk to them to see about just sending the whole caboodle (mobo + CPU + heatsink), just as long as you make sure that they acknowledge the fact that you're sending more stuff IN WRITING.
I doubt they'll allow you to, but it's worth a shot if you really can't do anything with it.
If all else fails, take it in to a computer repair shop, they can probably get it off (and most decent ones won't charge you anything or not anything outrageous).

Creston


 

Creston

Member
Mar 28, 2005
82
0
0
Originally posted by: FlyingPenguin
Oh man, now I'm wondering if this is a gag. Visible burn marks on the chips but they work in another computer? Hmmm...

Some black soot on a connector doesn't automatically mean it won't work. I've seen posts by people who say their dimms still work even if the connectors seem to have black marks on them.

Besides, he's sure gone through a lot of typing for a gag....

Grimbor, I think your mobo is just fried. Call for an RMA. You might want to let someone with some electrics knowledge check out your PSU though...

Creston


 

Grimbor

Member
Apr 8, 2005
41
0
0
Thanks for the help. I got an RMA acceptance on it as I explained everything and they also think it's either the MB or PSU. One thing I didn't mention is I was using a 20 to 24 pin PSU adapter also. Maybe I should get a 24 pin good brand PSU before trying a new MB? How do I shop a 24 pin MB PSU? Would it be a atx 2.0 specific only? Most PSUs don't tell you in the describtion how many pins the power connector has.

Anyways, it's all moot for now till I can figure out how to get the heatsink off without breaking my MB. Also, I have some artic silver left over from my last build, so how would I go about cleaning off the CPU and heatsink after removal? Or can I leave the thermal paste it came with on and keep it isolated from dust since it hasnt really been run and exposed to any heat yet?
 

Creston

Member
Mar 28, 2005
82
0
0
Originally posted by: Grimbor
Thanks for the help. I got an RMA acceptance on it as I explained everything and they also think it's either the MB or PSU.

*Looks quite smug at everyone else*
:p


One thing I didn't mention is I was using a 20 to 24 pin PSU adapter also. Maybe I should get a 24 pin good brand PSU before trying a new MB? How do I shop a 24 pin MB PSU? Would it be a atx 2.0 specific only? Most PSUs don't tell you in the describtion how many pins the power connector has.

Try newegg.com, they usually say. Also, check the thread on the General Forum here about power supplies, and ask there, they can definitely help you out with that. But I use a 20 pins connector in a 24 pins mobo, even without an adapter, and it runs fine. It's really a function of the mobo whether it will accept it or not. You could ask the mobo manufacturer.
But, if you want to feel sure, I'd go with an Antec powersupply or so, just to make sure it's not your current PSU that's messing things up.



Anyways, it's all moot for now till I can figure out how to get the heatsink off without breaking my MB. Also, I have some artic silver left over from my last build, so how would I go about cleaning off the CPU and heatsink after removal? Or can I leave the thermal paste it came with on and keep it isolated from dust since it hasnt really been run and exposed to any heat yet?

No, once you remove the heatsink from the processor, you do not want to reuse your arctic silver, as air bubbles will get into it, and really mess with its efficiency. Buy some 99% rubbing alcohol (most drugstores will have that) and gently clean it off with a soft cloth.

Can you rock your heatsink a little? Usually just the tiniest bit of give will get the lever to come off again.

Good luck!

Creston



 

superkdogg

Senior member
Jul 9, 2004
640
0
0
How long did it take from the time you first tried turning it on until you smelled smoke?

The reason I ask is that it doesn't take the amount of force you say you applied to clamp down the HS. Your ram is obviously not the problem since scarred or not it works. I can't explain its cosmetic damage, but if it works it can't be the problem.

My theory is that the HS was hung up on the plastic mounting brackets and wasn't contacting the IHS. That makes for smoke and a non-post every time.

P.S. I know that it' natural to get excited with a new build, but this time connect everything first and then try to turn it on. Go slowly and follow somebody's step-by-step guide. Use your motherboard's crappy documentation to get all the case stuff hooked up. No matter how bad the booklet is, it will have that info.

Creston:

It is highly unethical to RMA stuff that you knowlingly damaged. That is an undeniable fact. Ford sells cars knowing that a certain amount of them will be crashed by user error. Try to get warranty service on your Mustang after you run it into a tree. Your RMA {theft} justification is the biggest pile of crap I've heard in a long time. In this guy's case, there may or may not have been an issue other than the hardware, and I could maybe see it because he may have had a bad motherboard or ram or something else (I don't really think so, but maybe). However your advice to RMA anyway because everybody does it is horse____. Have a nice day.
 

Grimbor

Member
Apr 8, 2005
41
0
0
I know my HS is securly mounted on the CPU because it's really tighly affixed over the CPU and both clamps are under the tabs on the MB. I actually saw exactly where the smoke came from and it was coming from the dimm right where the burn area manifested. The bad odor I noticed within seconds of the power being turned on, but assumed or hoped it was just excess thermal paste being burned off, as soon as I saw smoke I cut power. You have a good point about the heatsink seeming to be on too tight because it seems to me that the manufacturer would not intend it to be so tight it would take full force from 2 screwdrivers to remove and risk damage to the MB in the process. I still havent worked up the nerve to try and remove the heatsink because it is just so tightly clamped in. I can get one of the clamps almost off the tab and if I could get it off the other side would be easy, but that last inch just seems to require an ungodly amount of force to move.

I'm pretty sure now that the damage was caused by either a bad MB or a bad PSU or possibly an issue with using the 24 to 20 pin adapter. I'll probably go ahead and order a better aPSU before attempting to rebuild if I can find something decent.

Anyone know about that powermax demon PSU? It's like 580 watts, has good reviews and a good amount of power on the 12 volt rail, plus it has a red glow which is a nice touch on a $30 PSU. I really do not want to shell out upwards of $70 on a top named PSU unless I absolutely have to.
 

Fern

Elite Member
Sep 30, 2003
26,907
174
106
I'd say stay away from that PSU. Its a Powmax unit. Bad reputation, cheaply made, overstated output

See THIS review

Personally, I've had bad experiences wth Powmax and would never purchase one.

Fern

 

Fern

Elite Member
Sep 30, 2003
26,907
174
106
Hmmm... Did you remove the sticker from the bottom of the heatsink b4 putting it on? That could explain some of these problems (and smells), including the HS being too tight.
 

stevty2889

Diamond Member
Dec 13, 2003
7,036
8
81
Definatly do not get a powmax PSU. That is one of the worst brands you can possibly get. I had one and it took out a $180 motherboard. Some good brands for a psu would be enermax, fortron, seasonic, antec, PC power and cooling, OCZ..even thermaltake would be better than a powmax..
 

FlyingPenguin

Golden Member
Nov 1, 2000
1,793
0
0
Antect True Power line is all I buy for myself and my clients. I'm through screwing around with cheap PSUs.

Cheap PSU = poor voltage regulation = mysterious crashes and BSODs.

Enermax is good too but Antec has never failed me.
 

superkdogg

Senior member
Jul 9, 2004
640
0
0
If the HS bound up the plastic mounting cage attached to the motherboard, it would make it very tough to latch and cause you to apply lots of force, that's all I meant. Powmax does have a pretty bad reputation. If you're looking for inexpensive and decent-good, take a look @ Fortrons.