Smart plug that will tell me how often and when my fridge was on?

[Muse]

My fridge has been acting up. I'm not sure it's going on and off as often as it should.

I would like a way to determine the behavior of the fridge without my having to monitor it in person, i.e. be in the kitchen. I have a couple TP-Link Smart Plugs, the Kasa Smart Plug HS103P2 pack. I doubt these do what I want here.

I figure there's some combination of hardware & software that will do this, i.e. report when the plug is supplying current versus when it isn't. I suppose the fridge draws a little even when it's compressor isn't kicked on. I just want to know when the compressor's running, get a report over, say, several days. Any ideas?

 

[jmagg]

Why bother. Clean up all the dust, put it back to 4-4 and see if the temps become normal. Then call the repair man or not.

 

[deadlyapp]

Just need to find a high current rated smart plug with current monitoring. You'll have to hope that whatever app they use allows you to trend the data or get a data export over time.

 

[feralkid]

Search up "current and voltage data logger".

Not usually formatted for direct outlet/plug attachment.

McGuyver skills would be helpful.

 

[nakedfrog]

I know it's not a smart device, but maybe Kill-a-watt would get what you're after?

 

[dullard]

What is the proper length of time and frequency for the fridge to be on? If you can't answer that question exactly, then your measurement probably won't give you anything useful. I suspect energy usage over time is just too indirect of a measurement for your needs.

Instead, why not use something like a temperature data logger? Then you can see if your fridge stays at the correct temperature (roughly 36°F +- 2°F in the center of the fridge). If your fridge cannot maintain that safe temperature, then you know your fridge needs repair. I searched for about 3 minutes and came across this one: https://www.summitappliance.com/catalog/model/DLSA11 I bet more searching and you'll find something significantly cheaper.

Probably you just need to clean the coils, defrost it in case something is iced up, make certain the opening between the freezer and fridge is unblocked, and leave 1" around all items (don't over pack your fridge like most people do with crap that you haven't eaten in 3+ years).

 

[feralkid]

How about this?

 

[Muse]

I know it's not a smart device, but maybe Kill-a-watt would get what you're after?

It might help. I have had one for maybe a decade, actually. I ordered this today, which is similar but has a bigger feature set and read a customer review saying it's more accurate than the kill-a-watt:

TP-Link Kasa Smart Plug Mini with Energy Monitoring, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, Wi-Fi Simple Setup, No Hub Required (KP115), White – A Certified for Humans Device $21.85

https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Energy-Monitoring-Smart-Plug/dp/B08LN3C7WK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pb_opt?ie=UTF8

It won't tell me when the compressor ran and didn't run, but it will give me total energy used for a day, week or month. Also remote turn on/off. I have a couple more primitive Kasa plugs that are programmable also but don't have energy usage features.

 

[Muse]

How about this?

That actually looks amazing. I suppose I can put it in freezer or fridge and later can download the data via USB to a PC.

 

[Muse]

How about this?

That actually looks amazing. I suppose I can put it in freezer or fridge and later can download the data via USB to a PC.

I just bought 2 of them, one for each fridge compartment. Thanks!

 

[Lost_in_the_HTTP]

None of the devices I seen mentioned so far will give you a log/printout/datadump of on/off cycles. Time of day on, time of day off, run time on, interval time off. I've been looking for a plug in device that will do that for quite a while. I want one for the fridge, chest freezer and furnace. With enough data accumulated, I can establish averages/normals over the year during temperature swings so that I can spot potential problems later.

 

[pcgeek11]

But if you do a data log of current draw over time it will be obvious when the compressor kicks on and off due to the huge change in current draw that normally goes with motor inrush current.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I’ve got a home automation system (actually 2 - Hubitat and SmartThings) and dropped temp sensors into my refrigerators and freezer and have the system message me if the temp goes above a certain point. Which reminds me, I think I need to change sensor batteries....

 

[RLGL]

What is wrong with putting a thermometer in the fridge and monitoring the temps? An older fridge shoud keep the freezer to 0° F. After that a fan cools the other section.

 

[Muse]

What is wrong with putting a thermometer in the fridge and monitoring the temps? An older fridge shoud keep the freezer to 0° F. After that a fan cools the other section.

I've had thermometers in both sections all along. I have to open the sections and inspect them to get data. I have a log on my stove right now because I can't remember all the stuff without it. In middle of night went downstairs and had a look: Compressor was off, turning up freezer to MAX wouldn't kick it on! Freezer was at 8 degrees, IIRC. I didn't panic, figure PROBABLY it was in a defrost cycle. The manual says this can be the case and you should wait 40 minutes before drawing any conclusions. Got up this morning and compressor was off but the temps were OK, so I knew it had kicked on while I was sleeping -- a relief, but I still think things aren't right. Should NOT have the wild swings.

Having a root canal this morning! It's one reason I haven't gotten to the next step, which is removing all the food, leveling the machine, returning the food and then monitoring the situation before doing anything else... hopefully, leveling the machine will at least make things better (the manual explains how to level, have the front 1/4" higher than the back, level from side to side.).

 

[Muse]

I’ve got a home automation system (actually 2 - Hubitat and SmartThings) and dropped temp sensors into my refrigerators and freezer and have the system message me if the temp goes above a certain point. Which reminds me, I think I need to change sensor batteries....

I started a Reddit thread in r/homeautomation yesterday (which I had just joined) and a guy said this:

filtertulpe
·
48m
I have a similar issue, where my fridge ignores the temp setting (it only understands always on and not running often enough). So I put a smart thermometer inside and attached it to a smart plug with power monitoring. First I just monitored it, but now I set the fridge to always run when power is supplied. Then, I made some automations to run it when it's above a temperature threshold and turn it off once it falls below another limit.

In case you end up with something like this, ensure your fridge is off for >30min or so. I read that some gases in the compressor need to settle or whatever.

Here's what it looks like in my dashboard (

https://imgur.com/EzTv0wx

). You can see that I sometimes manually override it. Otherwise it works very well.

That's what it looked like while it was acting up (

https://imgur.com/deEk78v

).

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautoma...rt_plug_that_will_tell_me_how_often_and_when/

Seems to me that's like jury rigging a makeshift thermostat. It would require a well functioning compressor, obviously. I really don't know what's going on with my fridge. Too long between kick-ons and stays on too long when it does kick on.

 

[Torn Mind]

There are super duper multimeters with logging.

Of course, they're priced for professional electricians. The Fluke kit would cost 450-700 bucks.

Cheaper way would be to buy a Nest camera, burn off the free trial, and return everything during the return policy window. Have the cameras in the close vicinity of the fridge, and have it set to detect sound.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-True-RMS-Electronics-Multimeter-TrendCapture/dp/B01HAWOWO0

 

[deadlyapp]

I started a Reddit thread in r/homeautomation yesterday (which I had just joined) and a guy said this:

filtertulpe
·
48m
I have a similar issue, where my fridge ignores the temp setting (it only understands always on and not running often enough). So I put a smart thermometer inside and attached it to a smart plug with power monitoring. First I just monitored it, but now I set the fridge to always run when power is supplied. Then, I made some automations to run it when it's above a temperature threshold and turn it off once it falls below another limit.

In case you end up with something like this, ensure your fridge is off for >30min or so. I read that some gases in the compressor need to settle or whatever.

[snips]

Seems to me that's like jury rigging a makeshift thermostat. It would require a well functioning compressor, obviously. I really don't know what's going on with my fridge. Too long between kick-ons and stays on too long when it does kick on.

It's expensive, but you can do exactly what he mentions with a Coolbot. Coolbots are generally used to force air conditioners to stay on longer and bypass the thermostat for things like wine rooms, brew rooms, etc. If you're feeling frisky, you can do it yourself with the automations and sensors he mentions, but you'll have to hack up the fridge controller to apply power directly to the compressor system (and fans, etc).

 

[dullard]

Here's what it looks like in my dashboard (

https://imgur.com/EzTv0wx

). You can see that I sometimes manually override it. Otherwise it works very well.

If that fridge is going between 6.5°C and 8.7°C (44°F to 48°F), then I would say that it does NOT work very well. That is a recipe for food poisoning.

 

[deadlyapp]

If that fridge is going between 6.5°C and 8.7°C (44°F to 48°F), then I would say that it does NOT work very well. That is a recipe for food poisoning.

Might have just been for testing purposes.

 

[Muse]

If that fridge is going between 6.5°C and 8.7°C (44°F to 48°F), then I would say that it does NOT work very well. That is a recipe for food poisoning.

Yup. I had some stew last night that was fringe going bad, and I was taken by surprise, because I make this stew regularly and never had that experience even when it's been kept in the fridge for 5-7 days. This wasn't in there more than 5 days, I think. So, yeah, the issues with the fridge are coming home to roost, so to speak. I dread having everything go bad. Not the end of the world, but it would be quite a pity to lose all that stuff.

 

[Muse]

So, I'm wondering something. If I do buy a new refrigerator... I like bottom freezer models but I don't see any selling now in Consumer Reports extensive charts/recommendations that don't have an icemaker built in except for diminished sized offerings. I want a big one, kinda like the one I have. My Amana seems ideal to me (what do I know?). I mean it's big 68x33x32" no icemaker and bottom freezer. Try and find that combination now! I don't see it.

So, my question is:

Can I just get a full sized bottom freezer fridge with icemaker and not hook up the icemaker? Would that be as if it didn't come with an icemaker and not have the maintenance issues that are attendant with fridges with icemakers?

Funny thing is the Samsung I was looking at, top freezer with 20cu.ft. usable capacity RT21M2113SG has no icemaker but Samsung sells evidently the same fridge with icemaker for the same price, the RT21M2115SG, according to the just published Consumer Reports 2022 Annual Buying Guide.

 

[pete6032]

Unless you were monitoring total power consumption before it acted up, how will you know that it is acting up based on current power consumption?

 

[RLGL]

I bought a Samsung 4 door fridge recently. It is the same physical size as my old one. (also has icemaker) the interior has way more space in the three sections, plus each section has its own temp control. Bonus, it is also way more energy efficient.

 

[Muse]

Unless you were monitoring total power consumption before it acted up, how will you know that it is acting up based on current power consumption?

What I figure is that if operating as intended and designed it's supposed to keep the freezer in the -2 to 0F range and the fresh food section in the 38-40F range. It's not doing those things by a large margin at the moment. Total power consumption over, say, a 6 hour range in tandem with power/time will let me easily calculate the percentage of time in those 6 hours that the compressor was on. AFAIK, that's all I'm going to get from the smart plug I just bought (although it saves per day, week and month, according to what I saw). I also have a kill-a-watt, which I can manually use for any time span, but I have to start and stop it and take readings. I have an off brand kill-a-watt type device too.

However, @feralkid suggested device, of which I ordered two, should gather temperature data over time and allow me to dump the data to a PC. Just how I can deal with that I don't know. Maybe it can be in a spreadsheet.