sigh, I give up

[andylawcc]

what particular parts do I check for Air and ignition system?

I clean the air filter already, so i suppose that's checked right?

and I do not know how to check timing and ignition (actually, I did and forgot completely, I have my repair handbook with me but I don't have the timing light and the deep socket that pulls the spark plugs out) I can CHECK timing if i have to, but I don't know how to CORRECT it.

do you mean I need new Spark Wires, Plugs, and Distributor Cap too?

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Thing that contribute:
your exhaust manifold leak
bad coil
bad plugs
improper timing (retarding timing usually reduces HC levels)
improper valve adjustments (exhaust valves clearances to tight)
air/ fuel mix to lean (air flow meter)

Check the easiest first using your manual. Is your engine "missing" or "skipping". Any spark knock/ detonation?

 

[andylawcc]

Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Thing that contribute:
your exhaust manifold leak
bad coil
bad plugs
improper timing (retarding timing usually reduces HC levels)
improper valve adjustments (exhaust valves clearances to tight)
air/ fuel mix to lean (air flow meter)

Check the easiest first using your manual. Is your engine "missing" or "skipping". Any spark knock/ detonation?

i can fixed the first three suggestions.
there is a exhaust manifold leak, Ignition Coil could be change (but 100 bucks right?), Plugs can be changed too. (do I need new wires and Distri Cap to accompany it?)

Timing and Valve Adjustment I will have the mechanic to do it. so the Lean fuel problem.

there is a little bit of 'missing' at low rpm (engine would torque-less and unresponsive at low sub-3k rpm, it is particularly noticable after going up a gear and rpm drops to the rpm level. its kinda like a turbo lag feeling. the problem lessen a bit after the new O2 Sensor)
engine is shaky at idle. two mechanics have addressed this problem previously.

so before I go back to the mechanic again, should I order the exhaust manifold and put new Plugs/Wire/and Distri Cap? (the latter 3 things were replaced 50,000 miles ago)

 

[TwoBills]

Originally posted by: andylawcc

Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Thing that contribute:
your exhaust manifold leak
bad coil
bad plugs
improper timing (retarding timing usually reduces HC levels)
improper valve adjustments (exhaust valves clearances to tight)
air/ fuel mix to lean (air flow meter)

Check the easiest first using your manual. Is your engine "missing" or "skipping". Any spark knock/ detonation?

i can fixed the first three suggestions.
there is a exhaust manifold leak, Ignition Coil could be change (but 100 bucks right?), Plugs can be changed too. (do I need new wires and Distri Cap to accompany it?)

Timing and Valve Adjustment I will have the mechanic to do it. so the Lean fuel problem.

there is a little bit of 'missing' at low rpm (engine would torque-less and unresponsive at low sub-3k rpm, it is particularly noticable after going up a gear and rpm drops to the rpm level. its kinda like a turbo lag feeling. the problem lessen a bit after the new O2 Sensor)
engine is shaky at idle. two mechanics have addressed this problem previously.

so before I go back to the mechanic again, should I order the exhaust manifold and put new Plugs/Wire/and Distri Cap? (the latter 3 things were replaced 50,000 miles ago)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Looks like I'm late to this party. Gimmie a :beer: and I'll summarize........OK, here goes:

I think Eli said it "JB weld on the manifold". Should do the trick. Just add a dist. cap and rotor to his list (plugs, wires, etc.) and you should be covered.

Quitbanningme hit on the ignition timing, among other things. Don't know if you're computer will allow this (my '87 Mit. would) but just slowly turn the dist. up (advance it, I mean, the idle will increase slightly) until you hear spark knock under load, then slowly retard it until the knock is almost gone. Now you're at maximum advance, for your engine. This will probably take 4 or 5 stops in the 7-11. Just do it slow. Then go fill it up with high test. The knock s/b totally gone. Maybe unplug the antiknock sensor, if you have one.

jagec and Rhino hit on the warmed up thing. Take that thing out on the freeway and run it for about 30 min. Get that cat nice and hot. Try to get it into the station w/o waitin' too long.

If all else fails, you're going to have to find a technician with a "masterminded" machine. Good luck.

 

[andylawcc]

bump and sigh.

 

[gleong]

I need to get a smog check done too

How much does it cost nowadays? I inquired at a Chevron station near my home, and the mechanic quoted me $70. Didn't sound right so I bailed.

 

[PHiuR]

all you need is $ and youll be good

 

[mordantmonkey]

you don't know any russian mechanics? i guarantee you'll pass.

 

[Lyfer]

cough* get a new car *cough

 

[V00DOO]

Originally posted by: gleong
I need to get a smog check done too

How much does it cost nowadays? I inquired at a Chevron station near my home, and the mechanic quoted me $70. Didn't sound right so I bailed.

Just got my smog done for $28 with cirficate in Southern Cali.

 

[cjgallen]

Move to a different state

 

[andylawcc]

Originally posted by: gleong
I need to get a smog check done too

How much does it cost nowadays? I inquired at a Chevron station near my home, and the mechanic quoted me $70. Didn't sound right so I bailed.

you in Concord? that's like, 10 miles from Berkeley right?
in LA it ranges from 15 (with coupon or without) to 25. 30 is probably the max. Try goto "Smog Check" only station coz they won't have a conflict of interest. (or at least from what I was told)

 

[gleong]

Originally posted by: andylawcc

Originally posted by: gleong
I need to get a smog check done too

How much does it cost nowadays? I inquired at a Chevron station near my home, and the mechanic quoted me $70. Didn't sound right so I bailed.

you in Concord? that's like, 10 miles from Berkeley right?
in LA it ranges from 15 (with coupon or without) to 25. 30 is probably the max. Try goto "Smog Check" only station coz they won't have a conflict of interest. (or at least from what I was told)

Ok thanks. I haven't had to do a smog check in 4+ years, but was still shocked when he stated that price.

Good luck with your problems

 

[ThisIsMatt]

Does the roughness at idle completely go away if you rev to around 3k rpm?

 

[andylawcc]

Originally posted by: ThisIsMatt
Does the roughness at idle completely go away if you rev to around 3k rpm?

it wasn't a huge or noticable roughness so to speak... the car just shakes and rattle a bit, nothing strange for a 200k engine, coz on my friend's civic i experience the same thing in a lessor degree.

 

[cavemanmoron]

Originally posted by: Rhin0
I'd just run Fuel Power in the tank and make sure you get the car as hot as possible. YOU WILL PASS THE TEST.

Change the oil and oil filter first.

install a new High temp t'stat.

 

[Colt45]

make sure the mixture is dead on. HC means too rich.

 

[Eli]

It just means you haven't really fixed the problem yet... although that seems weird.

I'd check compression. Maybe it's very low in 1 cylinder?

 

[QuitBanningMe]

Again you aren't burning the fuel.

Did you change the plugs? Properly gap? Bad coil? Air/ fuel mixture (too lean)?

Usually caused by misfires.

Other possible causes:
.pdf scroll to hydrocarbons

 

[andylawcc]

Originally posted by: cavemanmoron
Change the oil and oil filter first.
install a new High temp t'stat.

i did oil and oil filter change; and i ran the car 20 minutes on the freeway @ 80mph. but the car cooled down for 10 minutes while waiting at the shop coz there was another car doing smog.

Originally posted by: Colt45
make sure the mixture is dead on. HC means too rich.

how do I do that? Does the fuel injectors need cleaning?

Originally posted by: Eli
I'd check compression. Maybe it's very low in 1 cylinder?

I once learned how to do that in community college, but I forgot how to do it now; but i do remember that it was quite a complicate test.
If i do find out that it has compression problem, how do I fix it? I am running 91-octane.

Originally posted by: QuitBanningMe
Did you change the plugs? Properly gap? Bad coil? Air/ fuel mixture (too lean)?
Usually caused by misfires.
Other possible causes:
.pdf scroll to hydrocarbons

I changed plugs, went to autozone and got the Denso (supposingly the same as the OEM ones) which said "do not re-gap". How do I fix the air/fuel mixture and the misfiring problem? should I leave it to the professionals instead?