Shutting down under load

Discussion in 'Computer Help' started by cody0851, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. AnonymouseUser

    AnonymouseUser Diamond Member

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    What battery backup are you using? It sounds like you have dirty power on that circuit, so a battery backup with AVR might help. Dirty power could cause electronics (eg, PSU) to fail prematurely, not just your PC, so you might want to get an electrician to check it out if it is, in fact, dirty power.
     
  2. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    APC Pro 1000

    My house is pretty old, so I have no doubt I'm asking a lot of the single outlet. I'm pretty limited as other outlets are too far away.
    out of 1 outlet
    top plug powers the ups
    APC batt side-
    computer, 1 monitor, router, modem
    surge side
    2nd monitor, speakers, hd cable box, blu ray player

    bottom plug
    surge protector
    printer, 27 inch tv, and charging bluetooth headphones

    Last night, my tv's sound started coming through at slow speed. Was funny.. and not so funny.
     
  3. mlc

    mlc Senior member

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    i think you're wasting time.. I think you're running too hot as DaveyBrat already stated earlier.... Go to the Intel websit to see what the max temp is rated at for that CPU, I would bet its not rated to run much higher than 66-70c range... so you may have already damage the cpu

    In any case, take the cpu and hsf off, and clean off throroughly with alcohol, etc.. and then reapply a very think layer of thermal paste and remount.. and then see what happens...

    Mike...
     
  4. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    Will this work? 5$ Arctic Silver Alumina. I didn't realize there were so many different pastes out there.

    I could get a whole new fan for 10$. If I felt like taking my m/b out, I could get a 120mm Xigmatek SD1283 for 20$.

    Orrrrr, I could leave it alone, baby it, and build a new one when I get the money. That sounds really good. I have my laptop if this one blows up.
     
  5. Ketchup

    Ketchup Elite Member

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    You will get better results with Silver over Alumina. A new fan & cooler will give you better temp results, for sure.

    It would be good to see what kinds of temps you get with a new heatsink.
     
  6. jolancer

    jolancer Senior member

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    Dont fus over the thermal compound cost to a reasonable extent. cause you only use like a small grain of rice size amount applied... even smaller if cpu doesnt have a heatspreader. So no matter witch on you get you'l only use a small amount and can save the rest for future builds.. or heck resell the rest of the unused compound if you like.

    if cost is a consern just get the compound... a Bigger Better HSF will work better of course, but Not Neccessary at all. The compound is more important(assuming your HSF is already sufficent witch it is), its like overlooking the importance of a transmission in a vehical and putting all your eggs into an engine.

    even though your northbridge is fanless, id highly suggest replacing the stock compound on that aswell.
     
  7. Torn Mind

    Torn Mind Diamond Member

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    If this guy is not going to overclock in his current or future build, he is better served with the cheaper Alumina.
    Take the fan off the heatsink. You might find a "pad" of dust like I did with my Socket 478 heatsink. If there is that sort of buildup and you remove it, the new TIM and cleaned heatsink should bring temps down to more reasonable levels.
     
    #32 Torn Mind, Dec 4, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
  8. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    I ordered the Xigmatek SD1283, and Arctic Ceramique. From what I read, it's AS5>Ceramique>Alumina.

    Maybe the stock hsf can be salvaged, and I'll save the new hsf for a later build. Reasoning - my case doesn't open and give access to the back of my m/b. Building I'm ok with. Gutting an old build with a m/b that gave me fits from day 1 - not so much.

    Anyway.. waiting on the mail:)
     
  9. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    Ok guys and gals..
    I had to go ahead and put in the new cooler because the stock hsf mounts were brittle and broke when reinstalling.
    I hooked everything back up exactly, using before/after pictures . M/b power light is on, but when I hit the power button, all I get is 1-2 seconds of fan spin up, my case power light turns on for a second, and then it stops. No beeps.

    I rechecked all the connections 10 times. Help?
     
  10. Steltek

    Steltek Golden Member

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    Have you checked to make sure the CPU heatsink fan lead is plugged into the proper header on the motherboard? If it isn't plugged in to the correct header (the one specifically labeled CPU fan), the system will do what you are describing as a protective measure as it thinks the CPU fan isn't running. Also, is the CPU auxiliary power connector plugged tightly into the motherboard? Finally, as you indicate the prior heatsink mounts broke, carefully check the motherboard traces around that area and make absolutely sure nothing was damaged or that there isn't a metal fragment grounding something out. You can also try to disconnect the case switch and turn the motherboard on by shorting the motherboard power switch headers with a screwdriver.
     
    #35 Steltek, Dec 12, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2012
  11. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    It only has 1 4-pin cpu fan header to use. I know that one is good.

    The 24 pin and 4 pin m/b headers are in flush(and straight.)

    The case power button, reset switch, and HD audio are plugged in and they can only go in one way.

    The fan mounts were plastic, and I inspected after taking the m/b out. Everything appeared fine.
     
  12. Smoove910

    Smoove910 Golden Member

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    how much thermal paste did you use? Is there a chance that you used too much and the excess is now shorting something on the CPU itself? If all else fails, disassemble and reassemble slowly to ensure each step in the process is done correctly.
     
  13. Ketchup

    Ketchup Elite Member

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    Disconnect everything from the motherboard (cards, drives, usb) except power, ram, and CPU. What does it do then?

    doesn't work?
    Reset the BIOS, try again.
     
  14. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    I tinted the new heat sink. The layer was so thin, it had a couple bare spots. Then I put a thin line on the cpu like Arctic's web directions. I'm sure it's not perfect, but I had practice yesterday with the old stock hsf.

    I tried to keep everything perfectly clean. I had to completely disassemble everything, and remove the m/b from the case to install the new hsf. Air canned everything, inspected for dust, took before pictures to be sure of connections.

    The m/b light is just staring at me. I can hear Hal saying "I can't let you do that." lol
     
  15. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    Sigh. I'll have to work on that tomorrow.
     
  16. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    I unplugged everything except ram, cpu, and case fan. Reset CMOS. Computer still instantly shut off when I pushed the power button.

    Tried a different psu. Computer stayed on, gave 1 long, 3 short beeps, then cut off shortly after. I believe it's an Award bios, which means
    One Long and Three Short Beeps. Video (EGA) Display Circuitry.

    Plugged back in the new psu. Instant shut off.

    Now this perplexes me, b/c the new psu was running the computer just fine for a week. My original problem was "shutting down during load."

    Is it possible that m/b is killing my psu's?
     
  17. Ketchup

    Ketchup Elite Member

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    Your board has an AMI BIOS. Memory Failure.
     
  18. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    It's a Phoenix Award bios.

    I forgot to mention I checked both RAM sticks, 1 at a time.
     
  19. Steltek

    Steltek Golden Member

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    What happens if you boot the machine without a video card installed (i.e. just DRAM, CPU, and a single memory module)? Does it start up? Or, alternatively, if you move the video card to another slot?
     
  20. Ketchup

    Ketchup Elite Member

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    If you have the board mentioned in your first post, according to Asus, you have an AMI BIOS.

    http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_775/P5NSLI/#specifications

    BIOS 4 Mb Flash ROM
    DMI 2.0
    AMI BIOS
    PnP
    WfM 2.0
    SM BIOS 2.3
    ASUS EZ Flash 2
    ASUS CrashFree BIOS 2

    Unless you flashed it to something else.
     
  21. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    Umm, ok. But I did use the phoenix award bios utility to flash to the latest 1801 bios(a few years ago.)
    I tried each ram stick on its own, though. Possibility of both going bad? I memtested my ram a week ago - no errors. If it was my memory, wouldn't both psu's hit on it? They are both Thermaltakes.

    Sheltek - with the 850, I push power and instant shutoff w/o vid card. No codes.
    Different psu gives me 1 long 3 short beeps w/o video card.
     
    #46 cody0851, Dec 12, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2012
  22. Ketchup

    Ketchup Elite Member

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    Were you trying different slots when you were trying your mem sticks one at a time? Oh, and I have seen way to many posters with memory errors even though memtest came out clean.
     
  23. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    No, I left them in their original slots. Foul, I know. But ram error doesn't explain why 1 psu gets nowhere and another gives me codes.
     
  24. Ketchup

    Ketchup Elite Member

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    You sure the speaker was plugged in both times? Honestly, other than that, I am not sure at this point. Maybe someone else can lend a hand while I think on it.
     
  25. cody0851

    cody0851 Member

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    Yea, I'm sure it was plugged in. Asus has a Quick connect that houses the power, reset, and audio.
    All I can think is that the m/b is shorting out somewhere. I'm going to try this 850 psu in a different computer tomorrow, just to see if it is now blown.