Should I be using a router?

[lilrayray69]

Basically the title says it all.

I recently got a new internet plan which is 50 Mbps and it came with a modem (Arris DG860A) which has built in wi-fi. Prior to this I was using an older modem which did not have wi-fi and was using a Linksys WRT54GS v.2 for my household wi-fi. I do still have that router.

I'm not sure about the specs of this modems wi-fi capability, but I do stream things like Netflix on a TV or video files from my PC to TV. Don't currently have a console to worry about online gaming - my PC is direct ethernet to the modem. One thing I have noticed is the range on this modem's wi-fi doesn't seem to be great.

So, is there much need for a router these days? If so, would you be able to recommend one?

 

[VirtualLarry]

So, is there much need for a router these days?

Yes, of course.

Get an AC1200 or better. Asus, TP-Link, or maybe Linksys (Their WRT1900ACv2/ACS.)

 

[ch33zw1z]

The DG860A is your primary router.

If you add another SOHO router to use for wireless, run it is just a WAP

Google this "router as wap"

Or get a WAP only to run the wireless, I'm partial to ubiquiti devices for WAP....I have one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI

 

[jimbob200521]

Yes, of course.

Get an AC1200 or better. Asus, TP-Link, or maybe Linksys (Their WRT1900ACv2/ACS.)

A vote for TP-Link here. Tried a Linksys router first because I was going off the reputation it had earned through the many WRT54G routers I have owned and worked with. The router I chose/got was not good...like at all. Used it for a few weeks and said no more of this crap. So I bought a TP-Link C7 and have never been happier. It is fast, wireless range is exactly what I needed, and the most important thing: it just WORKS. I never have to restart it or fiddle with it.

Anywho, TLR - I vote for TP-Link (Asus is also a solid choice, probably would have gone with Asus but didn't want to pay the premium for the model I wanted).

 

[AnonymouseUser]

My thoughts on modem/router combos from previous threads:

You'll get mixed responses anywhere you go. I don't like them at all. The router portion is often gimped, CPU is shared between modem and router and is often underpowered, and default configurations are frequently insecure. On top of that they have lots of security issues.

Some additional notes about combos (vs Netgear R6400 linked above):

• Rarely have as many wired ports as dedicated routers (SBG6700AC = 2 / Netgear R6400 = 4)
• Rarely have QoS support (SBG6700AC has none / Netgear R6400 yes)
• Rarely have VPN support (SBG6700AC has none / Netgear R6400 yes)
• Rarely have USB ports for NAS functionality and internet file sharing/FTP access or USB printers (SBG6700AC has none / Netgear R6400 yes)
• No third party firmware support for additional functionality (Netgear R6400 has unofficial DD-WRT support)

Firmware of modem/router combos can usually only be upgraded by your ISP. So if you have router issues that can be fixed with a firmware update, you have to hope your ISP will update it.

BTW, I recommend using your own modem instead of any Arris modem.

I vote for separate modem and router whenever possible. Also, while the Ubiquiti UAP (as ch33zwh1z mentioned) is a fine WAP, it leaves you beholden to the Arris DG860A for routing duties unless you add a separate router as well (3 devices total).

 

[lilrayray69]

Thank you all for your input! I'm gonna do a little more digging but may very well go for the TP-Link C7.

 

[John Connor]

Just be advised that you may need to go into the modem's configuration and enable bridging mode when you connect a router to it. I had to do this to my large POS firewall Comcast modem.

 

[ttillman]

Yes

 

[JimKiler]

Avoid Linksys, and D-Link. D-Link is being sued due to not patching security holes by the FTC.

 

[bigboxes]

Just be advised that you may need to go into the modem's configuration and enable bridging mode when you connect a router to it. I had to do this to my large POS firewall Comcast modem.

Yeah, I had to do that when I used to Time Warner "upgraded" my rock solid modem for a series of bad modems. Finally, they gave me back a Motorola, but it was a gateway device like the OP's. I had to enable bridge mode so that the modem would just pass through the signal and let my router do the DHCP. Got tired of the crap and my ISP's rental fee, so I bought my own modem only Arris Surfboard SB6141. Of course, TWC/Spectrum did away with modem rental fees after I purchased my own device, but I didn't care at that point. All I know is that I own all the equipment end to end in my home. I recommend Asus for your router/WiFi needs. If you need to go cheap then TP-Link. Whatever you do you don't want your modem and router in one device. That way if you need replace/upgrade one device you don't have to do both.

 

[Mike64]

Since you're not doing any "real networking" to speak of and so the speed of basic wifi access is your primary/basically only concern, the first things to do are test the modem's built-in router/access point to see what speeds you're currently getting, and figure out the wifi capability (speed and frequency/ies) of your TV and any other wifi-capable device(s) you have or are planning to buy in the near future. Wifi is a two-way street, so while not all routers of a given speed class or frequency are created equal and a better one might increase your connection speed to some extent, getting a dual-frequency AC router, for example, wouldn't help if your other equipment is N/single-frequency, anyway. And for that matter, depending on the resolution you're streaming to the TV at, even a much faster connection might not actually serve any real purpose either.

If the latter describes your situation, you might as well just wait until you have a need for a more advanced/better router (and/or keep an eye out for the occasional "really hot deal" on a "good" router), since computer/electronic tech is one of the few types of consumer product that generally get better/cheaper over time, rather than the other way around. And there's certainly no point in spending big bucks on something with "future proofing" in mind if you don't currently have any real use for a new one in the first place.
,

 

[Siwy12]

Avoid Linksys, and D-Link. D-Link is being sued due to not patching security holes by the FTC.

What brand do you recommend then?

 

[JimKiler]

I like Asus but TP-Link is highly rater and cheaper. I got my in laws a C7 wireless router and so far so good.

 

[Ichinisan]

I work for a cable company. We've deployed 100s of that model. The wireless is garbage.

Details coming...

 

[Ichinisan]

I work for a cable company. We've deployed 100s of that model. The wireless is garbage.

Details coming...

It's single-band 2.4 GHz only. No QoS feature.

Sometimes random clients can't connect or the network becomes invisible. Changing the 2.4GJz channel seems to fix it (I change it right back). People usually say they've already tried a power-cycle reboot that didn't work.

Get a non-WiFi modem and use it with your own router. That's always my recommendation.

CableLabs DOCSIS certification mandates that end users can't update firmware. With your own router as a separate device, you get firmware updates to fix performance and compatibility issues.

I recently got an non-WiFi Arris EMTA modem (though I don't need the phone feature) from Goodwill thrift store for like $5 and it works great. 16 downstream channels.