Shark Bites!

[MongGrel]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...ater-Heater-Connector-u3088flex18lf/202270647

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...tor-with-Ball-Valve-U3068FLEX18BVLF/202685649

Probably not what you were expecting, but our old water heater had been out of action a few days and was rusty and pretty much in need of replacing.

Went and bought a Rheem 50 gallon and told the sales guy what was up, and was going to use compression fittings instead of sweating.

He said "try Shark Bites", another guy was walking by and said "yeah those are great."

Took longer to cut the old one off the copper pipes and clean out the closet it was in than to install the new one, these things are handy buggers.

Had new one in in about 20 minutes after cleaning everything out.

Have some sink fixtures and the toilets could be upgraded, had been putting off doing it.

These things make the plumbing replacement so much easier might be moving things up faster.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Just a water heater but wth

 

[BUTCH1]

Shit, that's cheap, I went the sweat route because the new heater was taller so I had to install couplings and new valves, the soldering kit alone was $25 and that was 8 years ago.

 

[Red Squirrel]

They're expensive if you're going to do a big job but for a small job they're great. I was weary about them at first but from what I hear they arn't really problematic and been in use for a while now. I typically use pex crimp fittings or if I'm working with copper I'll sweat but before I bought the tools to do those things I'd use shark bites for the quick jobs. I still do if I need to combine two types of pipe together.

 

[MongGrel]

Shark Bites and water cooling ?

Just kidding, he he.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Well if they're good for 100+ PSI they'd be fine for water cooling. :biggrin:

 

[alkemyst]

Personally, I know people that used these. Sweating pipes and making sure you have a solid connection is easy and I'd want that in my house with how much can go wrong with a water heater over the years.

However; if you have a disaster and can't afford more these are very good.

I am pretty handy, I usually offer my tools and services to my friends. A few have used these and a Home Depot (or Lowes) water heater and each time I go over I still give them a look over. They do hold up.

I'd make sure your water heater has a water alarm and/or a basin at the bottom for more insurance.

 

[alkemyst]

Also do insulate those pipes especially in Florida.

 

[MongGrel]

I used to do Pneumatics on high end, high pressure systems using copper/compression fittings and we'd bend some things that looked like art work on some machines we'd ship, and have friends at work could have sweated them, just was getting it done fast more or less.

You're being scarey.

 

[alkemyst]

I used to do Pneumatics on high end, high pressure systems using copper/compression fittings and we'd bend some things that looked like art work on some machines we'd ship, and have friends at work could have sweated them, just was getting it done fast more or less.

You're being scarey.

ok

I am not trying to be scary. However; water heaters usually fail when you find out you are walking into a house full of water.

You will not agree with that.

 

[Red Squirrel]

The only thing I'd be worried about is if the O rings can handle the constant heat from the water radiating through the pipes for the fittings near the tank but I would imagine they are tested for this.

No matter how a tank is connected it's good to have some kind of leak fail safe such as a pan and alarm, perhaps even a solonoid valve that cuts the water supply to it. I think it should be code really... most installers don't bother doing it and it's costly when the tank fails. Mine is not setup this way, but the floor drain is not far so water would hopefully just drip on the concrete and flow to the drain under the drycore sub floor.

 

[vi edit]

The pressure relief valve is on top? Weird.

 

[twinrider1]

The pressure relief valve is on top? Weird.

Not uncommon, but he really should run a drain line off of it.

 

[edro]

The creepy part about them is they spin freely after the are installed.
Black Magic.

I use 2 for convert my copper to CPVC on a bathroom circuit. They are easily accessible from the basement because I just don't trust them 100% yet.

 

[ch33zw1z]

I came in expecting these:

 

[Eug]

Sharkbites are code approved even for in-wall installation in my province (Ontario). I have several in my house, although most are in visible areas.

From my understanding, most plumbers will sweat because they're good at it and because sharkbites are damn expensive in comparison. You don't want to sharkbite an entire home because it'd cost a fortune. However, some will use sharkbites in tight areas where sweating it becomes a major problem for example.

I do none of the above though. I just hire a plumber, or at least a contractor with decent plumbing experience.

Remember though that similar fittings are common in high pressure systems. They even use them in space ships, etc.

 

[iGas]

Shark Bites & Polysulfone Quick-Connect are great inventions, however they spins therefore they are okay for connections that don't require to be stationary, while solder and PEX fittings can be use on all water services.

OP, you might want to look into your local plumbing code, because it is likely that the water heater require a vacuum relief valve and/or expansion tank on the cold water line, as well as T&P (Temperature & Pressure) relief valve discharge pipe.

Good luck.

 

[nickbits]

the downside to using the 3/4" water heater connectors is they restrict flow quite a bit. i notice a difference between the flow rates of my hot & cold.

next time i replace mine i will break out the torch.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Shark Bites & Polysulfone Quick-Connect are great inventions, however they spins therefore they okay for connections that don't require to be stationary, while solder and PEX fittings can be use on all water services.

OP, you might want to look into your local plumbing code, because it is likely that the water heater require a vacuum relief valve and/or expansion tank on the cold water line, as well as T&P (Temperature & Pressure) relief valve discharge pipe.

Good luck.

Yeah I find in some situations I prefer copper, such as where I have valves. It just feels more solid and the whole thing does not move when I go to use the valve. Pex with crimp fittings can be solid too if the valve is just between two joists or something but if it's something that's more "floating" I prefer copper.

I went totally overkill when I did the drainage line for my humidifier. 3/4" copper with big ball valve, it then converts to CPVC using a sharkbite at the end and discharges with the furnace condensate.



The very top portion is a bottleneck though, so really I could have use 1/2".

 

[iGas]

Yeah I find in some situations I prefer copper, such as where I have valves. It just feels more solid and the whole thing does not move when I go to use the valve. Pex with crimp fittings can be solid too if the valve is just between two joists or something but if it's something that's more "floating" I prefer copper.

I went totally overkill when I did the drainage line for my humidifier. 3/4" copper with big ball valve, it then converts to CPVC using a sharkbite at the end and discharges with the furnace condensate.



The very top portion is a bottleneck though, so really I could have use 1/2".

Condensate drain don't require a shutoff valve, nor a vacuum breaker, however some local jurisdiction may ask for an air gap at the drain/tundish along with the code requirement of vent and trap.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Oh that's for the humidifier, but now that you mention it, I don't have a P trap on my condensate, but it is open air at the top. Probably should add one.

 

[Phoenix86]

Repost.

 

[TheSlamma]

I've seen so many leaks happen with those steel braid lines right on the water heater like that

 

[MongGrel]

ok

I am not trying to be scary. However; water heaters usually fail when you find out you are walking into a house full of water.

You will not agree with that.

I meant scarey in other ways, but NM.

Yeah, I still need to run a pipe off the relief valve, I just wanted hot water again off the bat for starters

The old one snapped coming off the other, I'll rig one up soon.

 

[alkemyst]

I meant scarey in other ways, but NM.

Yeah, I still need to run a pipe off the relief valve, I just wanted hot water again off the bat for starters

The old one snapped coming off the other, I'll rig one up soon.

Most don't have a pressure relief valve with attached piping for a drain.

Going all that route, I'd have put it in a pan with a water sensor and sweating everything.

By the time you add all those shark bites you have a "kit" easy and you can use it the next time the water heater fails.

Too others, top of tank pressure relief valves are common.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

I use shark bites because I can't solder and shark bites are pennies compared to a plumber coming out. Also I found a leak on a Saturday afternoon. Having a plumber come out at that time would have been a small fortune.