SFF S370 Motherboard + WORKING!! IR Keyboard $30 @ Package2You

[fxsts]

Originally posted by: Waco10
I've been following these posts in the hope that the audio out limitation would be resolved. If it is I'll buy one of these suckers, otherwise its not worth it. Rather then be just a leach I did a little research within the ECS manuals. Here is what I found:

jumper/header J7 controls analog audio out for a front I/O port. In other words, an audio front I/O bracket should duplicate the audio functions and connectors normally found on the back of the MB. This makes sense since this is a special OEM MB where the manufacturer had a specific design for "front only" audio.

Other ECS motherboards also have a documented header for a front audio bracket (K7SEM). This header is 10 pins with each pin documented (i.e. MIC in, Audio out etc). Now the problem is J7 is 20 pins. Since the control of the front audio is setup with jumpers 3-8 on J7 and if you assume 1-2 and 9-10 are not used; then pins 11-20 are probably the audio header. Below is the normal pinout:

Pin 1 MIC
Pin 2 GND
pin 3 MIC-P
pin 4 VCC
pin 5 FPOUT-R (front out- right) ????????????
pin 6 RET-R (rear out- right) ???????????
pin 7 NC
pin 8 KEY
pin 9 FPOUT-L (front out- left) ?????????
pin 10 RET-L (rear out- right) ??????????

I'm no EE but I can quesstimate what; GND, MIC, MIC-P, FPOUT-R, FPOUT-L are. I have no idea what VCC, NC, KEY, RET-R, and RET-L are.

This is all a guess! I would be pretty confident that FPOUT-R is audio out - right. But I'm less confident that RET-R is "rear" audio out right. It could be an analog input.

To test this theory out I would:

remap J7 (in my mind) pins1-10 as 11- 20
Play a CD in the CD drive
Verify that the CD player is working????
Place a voltmeter (+- 5volt?) on pins 12 and 19. GND for negative and FPOUT-L for positive
See what happens

If this is trully an analog header the volt meter should dance with the music. Then you could just hack a simple audio jack.

Lotsa Luck!

Actually, J7, which is for analog sound, has 6 pins. J2 which has 20 pins is for digital sound.

 

[fxsts]

Originally posted by: alm99

Originally posted by: fxsts

Originally posted by: alm99

Originally posted by: fxsts
Good news!! I was able to successfully make the sound to work.

On the way from work today, I stopped at All Electronics in Van Nuys, CA and pick up of a couple of These. These fit perfectly on to the right soldering spots on the board where the sound I/O is supposed to be at. Only problem was that they sit a little lower than the normal sound I/O header, so you again need to enlarge the holes on the I/O panel.

Actually, after I soldered these pieces (I only installed two and did not bother with MIC port), I turned on the Windows. No, sound... I felt like crap. Then, I read through the manual one more time and learned that J7 header control the sound I/O ports. You need to short pins 3-4, 5-6, and 7-8 in order for them to work. So I started putting jumpers, and Bingo!!!. The speakers started playing sound!!! The pin 5-6 controls the Line Out.

Next, I need to work on the IrDA port. Unfortunately, I really don't have much clue on this thing. Anyone???

Where could I get some those I am on the east coast? Is it hard to solder? How good is the sound? Have you tested the S-Video yet?

You can order them from All Electronics, although they might charge you fixed $5 for shipping. They have Panaflo case fans for pretty cheap so you would not feel so bad paying $5 shipping for 75c stuff. Soldering them was pretty easy, but it is also depending on how good you are with soldering in general. I am pretty suck at it, and it wasn't difficult for me.

Sound = as good as any other on-board integrated sound.
Compsit video out = Hmmm.... Not very good although I do not know what good TV out should look like
S-Video = Have not tried

I ahve never soldered anything, I will have to check out their site and see if there is anything I may need. The mb should be here tomorrow. I just wish I knew when the NetVista case will be here.

Make sure to get a low wattage soldering iron like
this.

 

[fxsts]

The IrDA transceiver came with 20 pin connector. Of those 20 pins, on 14 are being used and connected to the circuitry through a ribbon cable. Why 20 pin connector instead of 14 pin connector is beyond me. Anyway, because of this reason, there are not many places where you can connect this to on the motherboard.

I have to say that I really have no clue.

 

[kami333]

Someone tell me what this $31 tualitin board at compgeeks is all about? Seems interesting. Is this it?

Any luck with the spdif?

 

[fxsts]

Originally posted by: kami333
Someone tell me what this $31 tualitin board at compgeeks is all about? Seems interesting. Is this it?

Any luck with the spdif?

See here.


In a meantime, I think that I have screwed up on the sound thing. Today, I realized that I was not getting sound from the left speaker, so I desoldered the pin jack connector off to take a look at it. I saw that circuit trace for the left speaker was scratched off. I think that I scratched it off with one of the legs on the pin jack connector while I was soldering it on yesterday. Now, the trace was totally messed up and I could not recover it even with the conductive pen.

I can still get sound from the Line In jack when I choose 4 peaker setting (Line In becomes Rear Speaker Out with 4 speaker setting). But, I am quite disappointed. Anyway, please be careful if you are also trying to do the same.

Also, you might not have to short J7 jumpers in order to get the sound. I might have had to do that because of the problem with the left speaker connection. I do not need to do anything with J7 to get sound from Rear Speaker Out.

 

[mindless1]

Originally posted by: fxsts
In a meantime, I think that I have screwed up on the sound thing. Today, I realized that I was not getting sound from the left speaker, so I desoldered the pin jack connector off to take a look at it. I saw that circuit trace for the left speaker was scratched off. I think that I scratched it off with one of the legs on the pin jack connector while I was soldering it on yesterday. Now, the trace was totally messed up and I could not recover it even with the conductive pen.

I've done similar damage to a keyboard port (different mobo), ended up removing the port, running thin transformer winding (enamel coated) wire from the pin to the next solderable point on the motherboard (where that broken trace leads). It's a tendious job but not bad if you have the wire and fine enough soldering tip, access to the spot on the board. Hwever, didn't someone mention there is a front panel header that probably has sound? Might be easier or a good second choice.

 

[kami333]

Thanks. Now I have to decide which one to get...

the package2you one would seem prefect for a car-pc, add a s-video to composite adapter, get the sound working, then get a cheap 5inch lcd and viola!

On the other hand the compgeeks one would be more flexible, could make a nice HTPC out of it...

btw, fxsts, have you been able to test the s-video out on your board? Good or bad?

 

[mindless1]

One thing that strikes me as a little odd about that MSI Tualatin board is that while it has no integrated video, it uses 1.5V AGP port instead of universal... this is a disturbing MSI trend i also saw on a newer Athlon KM266 MSI board, but it's far less common on a socket 370. If i were picky I'd prefer a Gigabyte Tualatin board just to have flexibility to use 3.3V AGP cards too (I believe all Gigabyte 694T boards have the Universal AGP port.

 

[alm99]

I got mine yesterday when I got home, I am waiting on the case to get here. I will take pics of it later tonight and post them

 

[inCreek]

I also ordered one thinking to put it in a Netvista case I got from eBay. Now I am kind of resenting it reading all the effort required to get it to work. Wireless KBD was one of the reasons I bought it, but there are no instructions on how to set up. Tke keyboard is shown here here so is it supposed to come with a receiver that can be kept out side the case.

Has anyone called Package2you technical support. I am not able to test it since I do not have a processor yet.

 

[alm99]

Originally posted by: inCreek
I also ordered one thinking to put it in a Netvista case I got from eBay. Now I am kind of resenting it reading all the effort required to get it to work. Wireless KBD was one of the reasons I bought it, but there are no instructions on how to set up. Tke keyboard is shown here here so is it supposed to come with a receiver that can be kept out side the case.

Has anyone called Package2you technical support. I am not able to test it since I do not have a processor yet.

I am in the same boat as you, I don't have a processor yet to test it waiting on it to show up at my apt. I don't think anyone has called or emailed them yet, although i plan to. Maybe you could get a receiver direct from the manufaturer? I am going to look into that. Either way if we can get a good setup out of this, it will be great for my uses.

 

[inCreek]

I have the Netvista case and had opened it before. Somehow I am not able to open it now(I removed the screws) without forcing it too much or using any tools. Is there any trick to opening the case, please help.

Also, when I first got it, I measured inside to see if it will accommodate a Micro ATX board, I thought it did not. Can some one confirm it. Flex ATX boards are very limited, and for mATX you have many choices.

Thanks.

 

[alm99]

Originally posted by: inCreek
I have the Netvista case and had opened it before. Somehow I am not able to open it now(I removed the screws) without forcing it too much or using any tools. Is there any trick to opening the case, please help.

Also, when I first got it, I measured inside to see if it will accommodate a Micro ATX board, I thought it did not. Can some one confirm it. Flex ATX boards are very limited, and for mATX you have many choices.

Thanks.

I am still waiting for the netVista case as well

 

[fxsts]

Originally posted by: kami333
Thanks. Now I have to decide which one to get...

the package2you one would seem prefect for a car-pc, add a s-video to composite adapter, get the sound working, then get a cheap 5inch lcd and viola!

On the other hand the compgeeks one would be more flexible, could make a nice HTPC out of it...

btw, fxsts, have you been able to test the s-video out on your board? Good or bad?

I measured the Netvista case last night, and the MSI microATX board would be very tight fit. Even if it goes in (there is a chance it may not), you will need to be very careful with a screw holding the power supply as well as another holding the hard drive cage.

I have not tested S-Video and I probably won't because it will be a pain in a butt to get behind my big screen TV to access the S-video input.

 

[alm99]

I got the mb yesterday and the case today, now I am just waiting on CPU.


Here are a few quick pics I took they are kinda big, 400-500k. I didn't take the time too compress them. Might do that later

keyboard
Motherboard
IRDA Link to MB
IRDA link to MB 2
NetVista Case

To open the case, when you take 2 of the screws off the back the top slides foward, the whole bezel comes of with it. You may have to take a screwdriver to lift the top back of the case so its not hooked on the inside to pull it off.

 

[TechDreamer]

I really like that NetVista case. Did you get one with the spray paint on the side?

 

[alm99]

Originally posted by: TechDreamer
I really like that NetVista case. Did you get one with the spray paint on the side?

yes, it has the spray paint on the side just like their picture on ebay. It was shipped fast too. I paid on monday, got it on friday. The case s in perfect condition, except for the spray paint that seems to rub off pretty easily. I haven't tested the PSU yet because I am waiting for the CPU to get here

 

[inCreek]

Thanks. I managed to open it. The trick is that the bezel comes with the lid. I managed to get a Netvista without the spray paint. It is a nice looking case and I was hoping to use it as an HTPC. But I found that it needs quite a bit of work to make it work with this MB. So I have to decide to ditch either the case or the MB.

- The PS is on the opposite side as the ATX connector, so the power lead needs to be more than 3 inches longer. Even then it will be lying over the entire board.
- The hole for RJ45 connection in the backplate has to be made bigger. Now it is only like a USB socket.
- Needs to drill holes in the back plate for TV-out (RCA) and S-Video out.

In addition, there are other issues to get the IR Keyboard set up, etc. I don't want to waste more time and money on getting this to work. So out looking for alternatives.

 

[alm99]

Originally posted by: inCreek
Thanks. I managed to open it. The trick is that the bezel comes with the lid. I managed to get a Netvista without the spray paint. It is a nice looking case and I was hoping to use it as an HTPC. But I found that it needs quite a bit of work to make it work with this MB. So I have to decide to ditch either the case or the MB.

- The PS is on the opposite side as the ATX connector, so the power lead needs to be more than 3 inches longer. Even then it will be lying over the entire board.
- The hole for RJ45 connection in the backplate has to be made bigger. Now it is only like a USB socket.
- Needs to drill holes in the back plate for TV-out (RCA) and S-Video out.

In addition, there are other issues to get the IR Keyboard set up, etc. I don't want to waste more time and money on getting this to work. So out looking for alternatives.

Mine just going to be used primarily for MP3s in my living room, I may turn it into a small HTPC, will see though. I don't mind doing the extra work, it makes a weekend project out of it.

 

[mindless1]

If anyone bought one of those Directron Celeron 700 I linked to earlier, I just confirmed that the sample I received, cC0 stepping, oddly won't o'c to 1050Mhz but will run at 700MHz undervolted to 1.5V, remains stable for extended period of time (few hours so far) at full load with a big passive (fanless) heatsink. However, this testing was done on a BX board with slotket, to adjust/test voltage before modding the P6STP-FN which hasn't arrived yet.

 

[alm99]

Originally posted by: mindless1
If anyone bought one of those Directron Celeron 700 I linked to earlier, I just confirmed that the sample I received, cC0 stepping, oddly won't o'c to 1050Mhz but will run at 700MHz undervolted to 1.5V, remains stable for extended period of time (few hours so far) at full load with a big passive (fanless) heatsink. However, this testing was done on a BX board with slotket, to adjust/test voltage before modding the P6STP-FN which hasn't arrived yet.

I bought one, it hasn't arrived yet, I have been looking for a low profile hsf to go on this. Having trouble finding one at a decnt price ~$10.

 

[tedinde1]

I received the board thursday, Wtf, or where in the hell the IRDA plugs into. Doesnt work where it says. I emailed the guy and he sent me back a sketch.

It was a good deal if you can get the keyboard to work but without it it blows, I have a serial IRDA sensor, maybe i can get it to work. Who knows.

 

[Waco10]

alm99,

Here is a 1U HSF:Link
http://store.compute-aid.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=101&item=HS1UP3-TA&type=store

and, a cheap one: Link
http://www.compgeeks.com/details.asp?invtid=CPPGAFAN

You sound familiar. Do you hangout at linux-hacker?

 

[kami333]

Originally posted by: tedinde1
I received the board thursday, Wtf, or where in the hell the IRDA plugs into. Doesnt work where it says. I emailed the guy and he sent me back a sketch.

It was a good deal if you can get the keyboard to work but without it it blows, I have a serial IRDA sensor, maybe i can get it to work. Who knows.

Could you email me the sketch? email

 

[mindless1]

Tedinde1, please email me the sketch too, i'll host it.

Waco10's linked heatsink 'site also has pretty good deal on a 1U PCI Riser $6.50, and other risers.