#402
Ok I need a little help
everything is working now. my only problem is dvd playback is choppy.
Im using svideo out.
winxp cyberlink dvd 4.0xp and apg mem set to 32mb
v2.06 Full Package Driver
Cpu is 667 celeron 2
fsb 83\83\33
256mb pc133
and I have hardware support enabled in the dvd player software.
its choppy and kinda like a fast slide show.
Ok I need a little help
everything is working now. my only problem is dvd playback is choppy.
Im using svideo out.
winxp cyberlink dvd 4.0xp and apg mem set to 32mb
v2.06 Full Package Driver
Cpu is 667 celeron 2
fsb 83\83\33
256mb pc133
and I have hardware support enabled in the dvd player software.
its choppy and kinda like a fast slide show.
For those who purchased product from Bargainland via EBay, I have done some research on the company and have phone numbers see below:
Bargainland appears to either be the same company (same address) or subsidiary of Warehouse86
Bargainland Phone: (602) 233-2003 (I only got a automated answer here).
Warehouse86 Phone: (800) 408-5399 (I actually spoke to someone here).
For what it is worth, after calling, Fed-ex shipping information was mysteriously was emailed.
Address:
5302 West Buckeye Road, Suite 102
Phoenix, AZ 85043
Possible Email : brian@warehouse86.com
Bargainland appears to either be the same company (same address) or subsidiary of Warehouse86
Bargainland Phone: (602) 233-2003 (I only got a automated answer here).
Warehouse86 Phone: (800) 408-5399 (I actually spoke to someone here).
For what it is worth, after calling, Fed-ex shipping information was mysteriously was emailed.
Address:
5302 West Buckeye Road, Suite 102
Phoenix, AZ 85043
Possible Email : brian@warehouse86.com
rk83, I am trying to follow your suggestion of RS 1/8 Panel Jack (#274-246). This has 5 leads, how do they map to the above J2 Pin Layout.
Thanks for your help.
Increek,
In another machine that I built, I wanted a front headphone jack that would mute the speakers that are connected to the audio-out jack on my soundcard. I followed these instructions (http://www.pc-workshop.net/submit/minor/phaestus.shtml), except that I took a shortcut and cut a 1/8? (3.5mm) headphone extension cable and soldered it to the 5-pin closed-circuit headphone jack.
In this case, what I plan to do with my case is to put the 5-pin (closed-circuit) headphone jack on the front panel and a standard 1/8? stereo headphone jack (open-circuit) on the rear panel. Plugging headphones into the front jack will disconnect my speakers that are connected to the rear jack. On the Radio Shack (#274-246) packaging for the 5-pin headphone jack there is a wiring diagram on the back. The pin assignment is as follows (I may have the left and right mixed up):
Pin Use
---- ------------------
1 ---------- Ground
2 ---------- Source (L)
3 ---------- Switched (L)
4 ---------- Switched ( R)
5 ---------- Source ( R)
If you use this 5-pin jack, I think that you have two choices for a second audio-out jack: 1) solder a jack to the motherboard as described earlier in this thread or 2) connect directly to the closed-circuit front headphone jack.
I haven?t tested this, but here is how I would connect lead wires for each situation:
1) with rear audio jack soldered to motherboard:
Header J7 Radio shack 274-246
-------------- ----------------------------
1 (Ground) ---------- 1 (Ground)
5 (SPKROUT R) ----- 2 (Source R)
6 (Return R) -------- 3 (Switch R)
8 (Return L) -------- 4 (Switch L)
7 (SPKROUT L) ----- 5 (Source L)
When the front headphone jack is empty, the rear jack will be active ? in effect, the front jack is jumpering pin pairs 5 & 6 and 7 & 8, as suggested on p 35 in the motherboard manual.
2) second headphone jack (open-circuit) not soldered to the motherboard ? this concept follows the work done by Phaestus in the mod link above:
Header J7 Radio shack 274-246 Open circuit headphone jack
-------------- ---------------------------- --------------------------------------
1 (Ground) ---------- 1 (Ground) ----------------------- Ground
5 (SPKROUT R) ----- 2 (Source R)
6 (n/c) xxxxxxxxxxx 3 (Switch R) --------------------- Right
8 (n/c) xxxxxxxxxxx 4 (Switch L) --------------------- Left
7 (SPKROUT L) ----- 5 (Source L)
In this case, pins 6 & 8 (rear or return pair) on header J7 aren?t used since the switching path goes directly to the second jack. This is speculation on my part since I don?t think that anyone has established that a jack connected to J7 pins 1, 5 & 7 for certain works for audio-out. I am working strictly from the ECS pin-out drawing and some Intel front panel audio header design documentation (http://www.formfactors.org/developer/fpio_design_guideline.pdf).
If connecting J7 pins 1, 5 & 7 (ground, right, left) to a simple 1/8? stereo headphone jack does, in fact, work, that might be a fairly simple solution to implement for those who don?t want to solder to the motherboard.
In another machine that I built, I wanted a front headphone jack that would mute the speakers that are connected to the audio-out jack on my soundcard. I followed these instructions (http://www.pc-workshop.net/submit/minor/phaestus.shtml), except that I took a shortcut and cut a 1/8? (3.5mm) headphone extension cable and soldered it to the 5-pin closed-circuit headphone jack.
In this case, what I plan to do with my case is to put the 5-pin (closed-circuit) headphone jack on the front panel and a standard 1/8? stereo headphone jack (open-circuit) on the rear panel. Plugging headphones into the front jack will disconnect my speakers that are connected to the rear jack. On the Radio Shack (#274-246) packaging for the 5-pin headphone jack there is a wiring diagram on the back. The pin assignment is as follows (I may have the left and right mixed up):
Pin Use
---- ------------------
1 ---------- Ground
2 ---------- Source (L)
3 ---------- Switched (L)
4 ---------- Switched ( R)
5 ---------- Source ( R)
If you use this 5-pin jack, I think that you have two choices for a second audio-out jack: 1) solder a jack to the motherboard as described earlier in this thread or 2) connect directly to the closed-circuit front headphone jack.
I haven?t tested this, but here is how I would connect lead wires for each situation:
1) with rear audio jack soldered to motherboard:
Header J7 Radio shack 274-246
-------------- ----------------------------
1 (Ground) ---------- 1 (Ground)
5 (SPKROUT R) ----- 2 (Source R)
6 (Return R) -------- 3 (Switch R)
8 (Return L) -------- 4 (Switch L)
7 (SPKROUT L) ----- 5 (Source L)
When the front headphone jack is empty, the rear jack will be active ? in effect, the front jack is jumpering pin pairs 5 & 6 and 7 & 8, as suggested on p 35 in the motherboard manual.
2) second headphone jack (open-circuit) not soldered to the motherboard ? this concept follows the work done by Phaestus in the mod link above:
Header J7 Radio shack 274-246 Open circuit headphone jack
-------------- ---------------------------- --------------------------------------
1 (Ground) ---------- 1 (Ground) ----------------------- Ground
5 (SPKROUT R) ----- 2 (Source R)
6 (n/c) xxxxxxxxxxx 3 (Switch R) --------------------- Right
8 (n/c) xxxxxxxxxxx 4 (Switch L) --------------------- Left
7 (SPKROUT L) ----- 5 (Source L)
In this case, pins 6 & 8 (rear or return pair) on header J7 aren?t used since the switching path goes directly to the second jack. This is speculation on my part since I don?t think that anyone has established that a jack connected to J7 pins 1, 5 & 7 for certain works for audio-out. I am working strictly from the ECS pin-out drawing and some Intel front panel audio header design documentation (http://www.formfactors.org/developer/fpio_design_guideline.pdf).
If connecting J7 pins 1, 5 & 7 (ground, right, left) to a simple 1/8? stereo headphone jack does, in fact, work, that might be a fairly simple solution to implement for those who don?t want to solder to the motherboard.
Originally posted by: Kroffty
#402
Ok I need a little help
everything is working now. my only problem is dvd playback is choppy.
Im using svideo out.
winxp cyberlink dvd 4.0xp and apg mem set to 32mb
v2.06 Full Package Driver
Cpu is 667 celeron 2
fsb 83\83\33
256mb pc133
and I have hardware support enabled in the dvd player software.
its choppy and kinda like a fast slide show.
I have gotten the same thing with almost an identical set up. I am using a 700 celeron, I don't think the CPU is powerful enough to run DVD playback
- Aug 11, 2001
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32MB of video memory is unnecessary, at most you should need 16MB, and that's only if running both outputs at highest resolutions, otherwise 8-12MB is enough since this is all 2D.Originally posted by: alm99
Originally posted by: Kroffty
#402
Ok I need a little help
everything is working now. my only problem is dvd playback is choppy.
Im using svideo out.
winxp cyberlink dvd 4.0xp and apg mem set to 32mb
v2.06 Full Package Driver
Cpu is 667 celeron 2
fsb 83\83\33
256mb pc133
and I have hardware support enabled in the dvd player software.
its choppy and kinda like a fast slide show.
I have gotten the same thing with almost an identical set up. I am using a 700 celeron, I don't think the CPU is powerful enough to run DVD playback
A Celeron 700 is faster than needed to play DVD, but in this motherboard it's being bottlenecked by video memory throughput AFAICT. The original BIOS allowed asynchronus (HostCLK+33) memory bus but the later BIOS versions removed that option, and so to get it you'd need that modded BIOS I made. I suggest trying to run the processor at 95 FSB & 128 Mem, or if that won't work then try 66 FSB 100 Mem and 83 FSB 83 Mem. Also change the memory timings... if you're using fairly recent manufacturer or higher-quality older PC133 memory, it may be stable at the most agressive memory timings allowed in the BIOS.
For comparisino purposes, it might be helpful to use Sisoft Sandra to benchamark the memory throughput while both displays are active, in mirror mode. Resolutions and refresh rates will also affect the amount of video memory bandwidth needed, if you're not going to use the monitor output, reduce it to the minimum resolution, color depth, refresh rate, or at least as low as possible while still allowing acceptable output to the TV.
Thanks for the help.
The cpu is a 533a that will do 667mhz at 1.5v but it needs a little bump to go higher. I know it will do 896mhz @ 1.8v
I tried the modded bios but only default and 83mhz will boot for me.
Is anyone working on a voltage boost for the bios Or a wire trick for the CPU???
I also noticed the sound dies after about 5min of playing a dvd. I have to restart the dvd program to get the sound back. Weird HUH.
The cpu is a 533a that will do 667mhz at 1.5v but it needs a little bump to go higher. I know it will do 896mhz @ 1.8v
I tried the modded bios but only default and 83mhz will boot for me.
Is anyone working on a voltage boost for the bios Or a wire trick for the CPU???
I also noticed the sound dies after about 5min of playing a dvd. I have to restart the dvd program to get the sound back. Weird HUH.
Got my rig up. First thing I did was flash my bios with the one mindless1 created. After the flash it said press F1 (hmm, there are no F keys on the IR keyboard???) Anyway, I hit the key next to Esc and the system rebooted. When it came up the next time, all I get are beep, pause, beep pause. I think the flash was not successful. I've flashed MB bios on other PCs with no probles before. This is my first failure. Any suggestions? I tried clearing the CMOS with jumper, no effect. HELP.
- Aug 11, 2001
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I don't think the BIOS will support changing the voltage. YOu have the typical options for Coppermine CPU, the motherboard will respond the same as any other (I have already tried my Celeron 700 at higher voltages on this motherboard, but unfortunately my specimen of CPU wouldn't run stable at 100 or 95 FSB, so the added voltage didn't help in my situation but probably will for you).Originally posted by: Kroffty
Thanks for the help.
The cpu is a 533a that will do 667mhz at 1.5v but it needs a little bump to go higher. I know it will do 896mhz @ 1.8v
I tried the modded bios but only default and 83mhz will boot for me.
Is anyone working on a voltage boost for the bios Or a wire trick for the CPU???
I also noticed the sound dies after about 5min of playing a dvd. I have to restart the dvd program to get the sound back. Weird HUH.
IF your CPU had a default voltage of 1.7, you could just wire-wrap some pins (see this guide) and/or solder a jumper-wire to the pins on the back of the motherboard, but since your CPU has default of 1.5V, you can't get a voltage lower than 1.9V without insulating or breaking off one of the voltage pins (VID2). Either way, you then need wrap one or two pins with wire (like primary winding from a transformer, enamel coating burnt off with a flame), or solder the wire to the motherboard. If you break off that VID2 pin, your CPU will ALWAYS need a wire-wrap or modded mobo to work, as it's default voltage state would be altered to "no CPU" (an arbitrary designation by Intel for CPU with no connected VID pins.
If it were my CPU, I would definitely try it at 1.9V, be sure it works ok, and think long and hard before breaking off a processor pin, though I admit I have done exactly that in the past with different systems.
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I just downloaded that modded BIOS from server, did a CRC32 check (0DEABA8D), it is intact, same as what I flashed and am still using on my motherboard. There is nothing unique about flashing the modded bios, as far as the motherboard or flasher is concerned, it is a standard BIOS image. The only things changed were those I mentioned, different defaults for a few non-essential settings and "unhiding" the additional FSB/Mem speeds that were already built into the BIOS, but the default setting for FSB and Memory is still set to use the CPU default, NOT to default to an overclocked value.
I would try shorting CMOS to reset to defaults, perhaps you need to unplug PSU to do this. IF this still doesn't work, I feel bad for you even though I don't think my bios was to blame. If worst comes to worst, if you can't get it working then send me your bios chip and I will reflash it with your choice of original, newest, or modded bios, and confirm that it works (for free, of course).
Creative Labs - Soundblaster PCI Compact
If you put "$5.00 Flat Fee - Must Mention Price Watch Price" in the comment section, you get it for $14 shipped. You need to mod the bracket though.
You can get it from others as well, just search CT5808 or CT5807 on Pricewatch.com.
How is the sound quality on this? Does it compare to a Soundblaster Live? I would be using this to run to my receiver and play MP3s. How would I go about modding the bracket?
Mindless1, you are a very generous person. I don't blame you for your modded bios. I think once in a blue moon this kind of thing happens. I'm going to try a local computer repair shop to see if they will flash my bios. If I don't have any luck I'll contact you about your offer. Thanks to you and everyone on this thread for your help.
Mindless1, one more question, do you recommend a cost effective tool that can be bought to program eproms?
there are plans and schematics on the net to build your own for about $5. Programmed through the parallel port in most cases. If I can find them in my bookmarks, I'll post, otherwise a google search for "build your own eprom programmer" will probably find what you want.
I believe that it's more or less the same as Soundblaster PCI 128 except a missing game port. It's a plain Soundblaster card not a premium card like Live or Audigy but sounds pretty good.
You just need to Dremel (cut and bend) the standard length bracket to fit to the low profile.
Thanks that wire trick worked I now have 1.90v
So its set at 100/133/33 that helped alot but its still kinda choppy and flickering.
I set the screen to 640 X480 and it pretty much fixed it. I may mess around with the memory timings next and see what happens.
thanks for your help mindless1
So its set at 100/133/33 that helped alot but its still kinda choppy and flickering.
I set the screen to 640 X480 and it pretty much fixed it. I may mess around with the memory timings next and see what happens.
thanks for your help mindless1
Does anyone know if the IR keyboard can generate function keys (i.e. F1, F2, ... F12)?
It would also be great if we could map the special keys on the IR keyboard to a user selected function or to launch a program.
It would also be great if we could map the special keys on the IR keyboard to a user selected function or to launch a program.
the Function keys work just fine - they're just labeled differently on the keyboard itself. There is software that can read the scancodes coming from those special keys. it would probably be easy enough to get them working in windows.
Can anyone reccomend good dvd player software? this cyberlink powerdvd4 is not cutting the mustard.
after 5min into the movie the sound dies. and I have to run the screen at 640X480 to get 30fps. even now with my cpu running at 800mhz and the mem running at 150mhz!!! crazy.
after 5min into the movie the sound dies. and I have to run the screen at 640X480 to get 30fps. even now with my cpu running at 800mhz and the mem running at 150mhz!!! crazy.
How big is your case? Do you have the PCI open? Try a hollywood plus decoder card. I would use mine, But I have the NetVista case
Well I don't have a case.
I am going to take some pictures when I am done.
I gutted out an old vcr and put every thing in it.
had to do some major mods to make it work. so I don't have room for a pci card unless I can adapt it to mount at a 90deg angle to the pci slot.
I am going to take some pictures when I am done.
I gutted out an old vcr and put every thing in it.
had to do some major mods to make it work. so I don't have room for a pci card unless I can adapt it to mount at a 90deg angle to the pci slot.
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