hehe i wouldn't worry about it, I don't think that the "thermal armor" does much but look neat. U won't find a top down cooler as good as the archon but then sb runs so cool maybe it doesn't matter. So if u want better mobo cooling u could get a top down but I would think good case ventilation is the most important factor.
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SB 2500K Gaming Build Advice
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Well I've had alot of thinking on this little project and decided finally to go all out on a top spec Gaming machine that can also bench high as well and really go high level.
Now if I can do this better with X58 for the same cash let me know but my main question now is I want thing thing to run cool and quiet but am wavering on the cooling system. I'll say I am happy with my final spec which whilst expensive also provides excellent components for hitting a high overclock which is now also part of my criteria.
So here it is and yes it is crazy but extremely cool:
CPU: 2600K i7
Mainboard: Maximus IV (Want the 2 x16 lanes for the GPU's in SLI)
PSU: AX1200 (I like the advice on Corsair and this should provide the power to get the overclock I'm after)
Case: Fortress FT02B if Air or TJ07 if water
RAM: 8GB Vengeance PC3 12800 8-8-8-24 CAS
Storage 1: 120GB OCZ Vertex 2E (Boot drive and main games)
Storage 2: 300GB WD Velociraptor (Steam installs and apps)
Storage 3: 1TB Samsung F3 (Mass Storage)
GPU: 2 x EVGA gtx580 SLI
Soundcard: Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional
Optical: LG CH10LS20.AUAR 10x Blu-Ray Reader
Fan Controller: NZXT Sentry LXE High Performance Touch Screen & Fan Controller
OS is obviously Windows 7 64bit and with this monster I'll likely upgrade to a Dell U2711 at a later date though I could use my 46" Bravia atm I suppose.
Now what I'm thinking is whether to go with an H70 coupled with 2 x Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1850RPM or maybe look at a water cooled system at which I am a total amateur.
If so was looking at maybe a single loop to keep things simple with an xspc reservoir and Swiftech Apogee XT CPU block. I could drop from SLI air cooled cards to a single EVGA Hydro card which is a very sexy thin GPU and has a higher clock anyway.
Question really is would it be better to go with the air and SLI or water and the Hydro card and if so would a single loop work? Or is air cooled going to be acceptable with heat with 2 SLI'ed cards and the sound tolerable?
Now if I can do this better with X58 for the same cash let me know but my main question now is I want thing thing to run cool and quiet but am wavering on the cooling system. I'll say I am happy with my final spec which whilst expensive also provides excellent components for hitting a high overclock which is now also part of my criteria.
So here it is and yes it is crazy but extremely cool:
CPU: 2600K i7
Mainboard: Maximus IV (Want the 2 x16 lanes for the GPU's in SLI)
PSU: AX1200 (I like the advice on Corsair and this should provide the power to get the overclock I'm after)
Case: Fortress FT02B if Air or TJ07 if water
RAM: 8GB Vengeance PC3 12800 8-8-8-24 CAS
Storage 1: 120GB OCZ Vertex 2E (Boot drive and main games)
Storage 2: 300GB WD Velociraptor (Steam installs and apps)
Storage 3: 1TB Samsung F3 (Mass Storage)
GPU: 2 x EVGA gtx580 SLI
Soundcard: Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional
Optical: LG CH10LS20.AUAR 10x Blu-Ray Reader
Fan Controller: NZXT Sentry LXE High Performance Touch Screen & Fan Controller
OS is obviously Windows 7 64bit and with this monster I'll likely upgrade to a Dell U2711 at a later date though I could use my 46" Bravia atm I suppose.
Now what I'm thinking is whether to go with an H70 coupled with 2 x Scythe Gentle Typhoons 1850RPM or maybe look at a water cooled system at which I am a total amateur.
If so was looking at maybe a single loop to keep things simple with an xspc reservoir and Swiftech Apogee XT CPU block. I could drop from SLI air cooled cards to a single EVGA Hydro card which is a very sexy thin GPU and has a higher clock anyway.
Question really is would it be better to go with the air and SLI or water and the Hydro card and if so would a single loop work? Or is air cooled going to be acceptable with heat with 2 SLI'ed cards and the sound tolerable?
just get a 2TB Samsung and drop the Velociraptor, it's not like it's actually any faster
mnewsham
Lifer
Okay, well first thing you wont notice a difference (really maybe 3% tops) between x16/x16 and x8/x8.
Second unless you need HT on the 2600k for something besides games dont spend the money on it as for gaming it will be fairly useless.
Next, 1000Watts should be fine.
If you have the money I would recommend going custom water. Double loop one for CPU and one for TWO EVGA FTW hydroCopper 2 (you should be able to squeeze it in once you save money on the Motherboard and PSU and CPU)
I would get this case as it is a very good liquid case.
Make sure your RAM is 1.5V
Not sure if you need a bluray player as bluray is ALREADY dying
i would get two 1tb samsung F3 and do a RAID 0 array if you want speed.
No real need for a sound card but up to you.
that's all i can think of right now
The 2600k was mainly for higher overclocking as from my read it can bench higher though yeah the 2500k is the perfect gaming CPU as you say. I did used to do some Maya 3D modelling and was learning to use Houdini and realflow for VFX but put it on hold as it killed my current system in render time.
I really do fancy 2 of those Hydro's as they are drop dead sexy and look gorgeous. Anywhere I can get guidance on setting up a dual loop as I really know nothing about water cooling. All I know is cocking it up will be expensive 😛 But things like what parts, what size rad and hot to actually assemble two loops without a plumber!!
I've also seen quite a few high end builds using that 800D obsidian, is it really better than the Temjin? As Bit tech rates the TJ07 as THE best water cooling case?
RAM should be fine as it is rated v1.5 so good to go there just fancied slightly better CAS on it.
The blu ray costs about the same as the normal drives and I have a huge blu ray collection. I do hope Blue Ray doesn't die as I buy those for all new films due to my PS3 and the Bravia.
I had considered the 2 x Samsung as I intend to salvage one of those from my current system and wondered if Raid 0 would outperform a Velociraptor.
Soundcard is probably more to do with habit and the fact I always loved Creatives SB cards. Tbh if the on board sound from the Mainboard could match it I'd go for just that but alot of reviews do rate the X-Fi highly for games and the Xonar for straight audio.
Frankly for 2 x Hydro and a water loop I'm prepared for quite a few compromises as just the idea of the project gets me excited.
I really do fancy 2 of those Hydro's as they are drop dead sexy and look gorgeous. Anywhere I can get guidance on setting up a dual loop as I really know nothing about water cooling. All I know is cocking it up will be expensive 😛 But things like what parts, what size rad and hot to actually assemble two loops without a plumber!!
I've also seen quite a few high end builds using that 800D obsidian, is it really better than the Temjin? As Bit tech rates the TJ07 as THE best water cooling case?
RAM should be fine as it is rated v1.5 so good to go there just fancied slightly better CAS on it.
The blu ray costs about the same as the normal drives and I have a huge blu ray collection. I do hope Blue Ray doesn't die as I buy those for all new films due to my PS3 and the Bravia.
I had considered the 2 x Samsung as I intend to salvage one of those from my current system and wondered if Raid 0 would outperform a Velociraptor.
Soundcard is probably more to do with habit and the fact I always loved Creatives SB cards. Tbh if the on board sound from the Mainboard could match it I'd go for just that but alot of reviews do rate the X-Fi highly for games and the Xonar for straight audio.
Frankly for 2 x Hydro and a water loop I'm prepared for quite a few compromises as just the idea of the project gets me excited.
mnewsham
Lifer
There are quite a few guides on how to set up a water loop.
The case may not be better but hey it's $100 less...
you wont notice a real difference in the HDD from a velociraptor and putting the samsung F3 in raid will only make them faster.
you wont notice a difference in real life usage between CL9 to CL7 nor from 1333Mhz to 1600Mhz so RAM speeds arent that critical.
Bluray is dying because you can stream 1080p content fairly easily with most modern internet connections, the internet is taking over
Sound is preference the onboard will be fine for most people, i use this when i am out with headphones and my laptop.
Holy hell checked the 800D case on scan and it costs £227.76 which is the same price as a TJ07!!!
Oh to live in the states (which if my wife has her way we will as she wants to go home 😛)
I take your point on the velociraptor prob is better to run the 2 x Samsungs. I had just noticed alot of high end builds using them for Steam drives.
And yeah the RAM was just a slight price difference but I suppose saving £20 can't hurt!
I think you mean cloud computing much like steam and such. Prob atm with streaming for me is I am limited to ADSL2+ from my ISP and the fibre optic roll out from BT has yet to reach my area. So in reality whilst I am offered 20MB connection speed I prob only get maybe 8 due to distance to the exchange.
I gotta say I sitll like the Sabertooth mainly due to the thermal radar, I'm just still not entirely convinced you can stick 2 SLI GPU's and still have room for a pci-e soundcard, I've been posting in a few Sabertooth threads hoping someone who owns one can answer this. I still can't bring myself to buy one of those ghastly bright blue boards.
But you've given me a few more thoughts wanyway so back to the drawing board!
Oh to live in the states (which if my wife has her way we will as she wants to go home 😛)
I take your point on the velociraptor prob is better to run the 2 x Samsungs. I had just noticed alot of high end builds using them for Steam drives.
And yeah the RAM was just a slight price difference but I suppose saving £20 can't hurt!
I think you mean cloud computing much like steam and such. Prob atm with streaming for me is I am limited to ADSL2+ from my ISP and the fibre optic roll out from BT has yet to reach my area. So in reality whilst I am offered 20MB connection speed I prob only get maybe 8 due to distance to the exchange.
I gotta say I sitll like the Sabertooth mainly due to the thermal radar, I'm just still not entirely convinced you can stick 2 SLI GPU's and still have room for a pci-e soundcard, I've been posting in a few Sabertooth threads hoping someone who owns one can answer this. I still can't bring myself to buy one of those ghastly bright blue boards.
But you've given me a few more thoughts wanyway so back to the drawing board!
StinkyPinky
Diamond Member
That's a beast. Too much if you ask me.
x16/x16 pci is a waste of time, it basically gives no performance increase. Why not just go with the P8P67 Pro? I've never been a fan of buying expensive mobos.
I also question the need for 580 SLI as almost all big budget games are console ports anyway. Why not 570 SLI? That would destroy any game.
mnewsham
Lifer
If you go with the HydroCopper's then they are only single slot monsters 😉 and you wont be blocking other PCI slots, and remember with sound cards you will get some electrical interference from all of your pieces and parts inside your case.
The case is up to you, i have built a fairly good water build using a HAF X (usually an air case) so it really depends on preference.
Duh I'm an idiot yeah I forgot about the fact they are slim line. Damn I think you just settled me on the Sabertooth afterall. That actually solves all the spacing problems for me.
And yeah the pc is utter overkill but to a point I'm looking at it as a cool project for me as well in the same way people like to buy Veyrons and drive them upto Tesco I just fancy building a monster pc.
I really do love the idea of a water cooled system, just looking how to construct it now. So far I've narroved down the following:
Aqua Aquaero 4.00 USB Silver Front Blue/White LCD Water temperature monitor
MCP655(LD5) - Laing D5 Vario Pump 12v x 2
XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir for Two Laing DDC
XSPC RX480 Black High Performance Radiator
Aqua-Computer 53067 Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 x 2
Swiftech Apogee XT Extreme CPU Waterblock
Bitspower 1/4" BSPP - 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Rotary 45 Degree Comp x 6
XSPC RS360 Radiator - Black (G1/4" Threaded Ports)
XSPC RX480 Black High Performance Radiator
Bitspower BP-MBCPF-CC5 G1/4" Matt Black Compression Fitting CC5 For ID 1/2" OD3/4" x 8
1L Feser One Fluid - Black UV for water cooling systems
Bitspower BP-MB90R3D G1/4" Matte BlackTriple Rotary 90 Degree G 1/4 Male to Female Fitting x 3
XSPC12WHITE - 2m XSPC 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD XSPC White Hose and Black - 1 for the CPU loop and the second for the GPU loop
Now I'm really no expert on this so hoping what I've put together is all compatable and would work for my build. I definately need advice on this part as I know next to nothing but from what I gather:
CPU Loop: Uses one side of the reservoir and 1 pump connecting to the smaller radiator and colour coded with the White hose.
GPU Loop: Uses the second side of the reservoir and second pump connecting to the larger radiator and colour coded with the Black Hose.
I'm also guessing as it will have 2 in SLI I need to run additional hose between the 2 cards?
The whole system is then monitored by the Aquaero with the 2 sensors and all connected up with the Bitspower fittings. Hopefully I've chosen enough of each type. Do I also require any quick disconnects?
Anyway I'm really excited about the idea of putting this together so would greatly value advice on this part.
And yeah the pc is utter overkill but to a point I'm looking at it as a cool project for me as well in the same way people like to buy Veyrons and drive them upto Tesco I just fancy building a monster pc.
I really do love the idea of a water cooled system, just looking how to construct it now. So far I've narroved down the following:
Aqua Aquaero 4.00 USB Silver Front Blue/White LCD Water temperature monitor
MCP655(LD5) - Laing D5 Vario Pump 12v x 2
XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir for Two Laing DDC
XSPC RX480 Black High Performance Radiator
Aqua-Computer 53067 Temperature sensor internal/external thread G1/4 x 2
Swiftech Apogee XT Extreme CPU Waterblock
Bitspower 1/4" BSPP - 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Rotary 45 Degree Comp x 6
XSPC RS360 Radiator - Black (G1/4" Threaded Ports)
XSPC RX480 Black High Performance Radiator
Bitspower BP-MBCPF-CC5 G1/4" Matt Black Compression Fitting CC5 For ID 1/2" OD3/4" x 8
1L Feser One Fluid - Black UV for water cooling systems
Bitspower BP-MB90R3D G1/4" Matte BlackTriple Rotary 90 Degree G 1/4 Male to Female Fitting x 3
XSPC12WHITE - 2m XSPC 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD XSPC White Hose and Black - 1 for the CPU loop and the second for the GPU loop
Now I'm really no expert on this so hoping what I've put together is all compatable and would work for my build. I definately need advice on this part as I know next to nothing but from what I gather:
CPU Loop: Uses one side of the reservoir and 1 pump connecting to the smaller radiator and colour coded with the White hose.
GPU Loop: Uses the second side of the reservoir and second pump connecting to the larger radiator and colour coded with the Black Hose.
I'm also guessing as it will have 2 in SLI I need to run additional hose between the 2 cards?
The whole system is then monitored by the Aquaero with the 2 sensors and all connected up with the Bitspower fittings. Hopefully I've chosen enough of each type. Do I also require any quick disconnects?
Anyway I'm really excited about the idea of putting this together so would greatly value advice on this part.
mnewsham
Lifer
😉 and i think that might be a triple loop he has (one for each cpu and then one for the GPU's) but it might be only two loops. not sure 😛
Just saw a very good vid by Maxishine with Tri SLI Hydro Copper 2's using Bitspower D Plugs to connect the Blocks together before linking into the hoses. And lo and behold I can't find the matt black fittings in the UK for love nor money via the usual water cooling specialists.
From what I can gather you could use a quad radiator in the base of a TJ07 with 4 x air penetrators to vent the heat or would a tri radiator suffice? use the d plugs (If I can ever locate them) to connect up the Hydro's and then connect to the dual reservoir as before.
Would this actually require a dual loop though or with just dual SLI and a 2500k could it be done on a single loop?
From what I can gather you could use a quad radiator in the base of a TJ07 with 4 x air penetrators to vent the heat or would a tri radiator suffice? use the d plugs (If I can ever locate them) to connect up the Hydro's and then connect to the dual reservoir as before.
Would this actually require a dual loop though or with just dual SLI and a 2500k could it be done on a single loop?
mnewsham
Lifer
Try eBay or something, and you COULD do it on a single loop but im not sure about temps, you would want your CPU before the GPU tho as the 580's can put off some heat.
Cool so dual loop it is, in that case I think I may of started to grasp the concept of water cooling them.
Loop 1 - CPU Black Hose: Bay reservoir 1 == Pump1 == CPU Block == Radiator 1 == reservoir 1
Loop 2 - GPU's Red Hose: Bay reservoir 2 == Pump2 == GPU1 =D Plug= GPU2 == Radiator 2 == reservoir 2
Where == is the hose with compression fittings.
So again from what I can see the critical part is the water flow and the radiators ability to disperse heat which is based on surface area.
So from this what the CPU be good with just a single rad cooled by an air penetrator and the GPU's good with a tri radiator or do I need larger rads?
Loop 1 - CPU Black Hose: Bay reservoir 1 == Pump1 == CPU Block == Radiator 1 == reservoir 1
Loop 2 - GPU's Red Hose: Bay reservoir 2 == Pump2 == GPU1 =D Plug= GPU2 == Radiator 2 == reservoir 2
Where == is the hose with compression fittings.
So again from what I can see the critical part is the water flow and the radiators ability to disperse heat which is based on surface area.
So from this what the CPU be good with just a single rad cooled by an air penetrator and the GPU's good with a tri radiator or do I need larger rads?
mnewsham
Lifer
hmmm not sure, that SOUNDS fine but iv never used 580's water cooled 😕
Also i was under the impression the Rad should be right before the GPU/CPU (coldest water on the component) but maybe it doesn't matter?
Just looking at TDP (~250W), it makes more sense to give each GTX 580 its own loop and either do a third loop for the CPU or tack it onto the secondary GPU. You should definitely put the radiator right before the component to be cooled. (Just reverse the flow in your diagrams.)
Computer is a waste of money BTW, but you seem well aware of that fact. 🙂
Yeah I'd be the first to admit this is barking mad and way OTT for gaming but ya know magpie and shinies!!!
If I was going to take a straight shot at what the optimal gaming pc would be factoring noise, speed at 1920 x 1080 etc etc I'd say
2500k with Sabertooth Mainboard and 8GB Vengeance RAM with Crossfire dual 6970's in a FT02B.
Maybe use a 64GB OCZ SSD boot drive backed by Raid 0 1TB Samsung F3's. Power it all off the excellent AX850 and stick in optical and soundcard to taste. I reckon you'd get perfect frameworks of 60+ without breaking a sweat.
That's just from what I've learned from advice given here and reading around. For air cooling you could use an H70 but you'd need to swap out the stock coolers if you want noiser reduction or maybe go for a passive tower like the Silver Arrow or DH14.
Prob looking at what maybe 70 - 80c under load compared to the very sexy dual hydro's at 40 ish but without the cost of an expensive custom water loop.
I'd be surprised if you could do much better at that resolution though you could prob go cheaper with the PSU and Mainboard if you wanted and don't mind ghastly colours 😛
I think my problem is I've got a taste for building a pc and am going to extremes based on my changing demands. I've totally fallen in love with the idea of SLI Hydro Coppers and from benching online they operate about 40 under heavy load at high framerates. What I'm doing from here is building around this core concept.
So kinda thinking what would be the optimal system to build round hydro coppers based on minimum noise, optimal cooling and looking stylish and cool in red and black theming.
Atm I'd say the core system would be a Saberooth with 2500k and 8GB vengeance RAM. Then 2 x SLI Hydro Copper.
I'm, fairly static on the OCZ Vertex drive backed by Raid 0 1TB Samsungs.
I'm also fixed on having the Creative soundcard so everything else needs to be built around this focusing on noise reduction and staying with the colour theming.
And you are certainly right about the monitor, I'd hope to eventually pair this with maybe a Dell U2711. I did also consider linking to my Bravia with an HDMI but 46" would prob punish my system.
If I was going to take a straight shot at what the optimal gaming pc would be factoring noise, speed at 1920 x 1080 etc etc I'd say
2500k with Sabertooth Mainboard and 8GB Vengeance RAM with Crossfire dual 6970's in a FT02B.
Maybe use a 64GB OCZ SSD boot drive backed by Raid 0 1TB Samsung F3's. Power it all off the excellent AX850 and stick in optical and soundcard to taste. I reckon you'd get perfect frameworks of 60+ without breaking a sweat.
That's just from what I've learned from advice given here and reading around. For air cooling you could use an H70 but you'd need to swap out the stock coolers if you want noiser reduction or maybe go for a passive tower like the Silver Arrow or DH14.
Prob looking at what maybe 70 - 80c under load compared to the very sexy dual hydro's at 40 ish but without the cost of an expensive custom water loop.
I'd be surprised if you could do much better at that resolution though you could prob go cheaper with the PSU and Mainboard if you wanted and don't mind ghastly colours 😛
I think my problem is I've got a taste for building a pc and am going to extremes based on my changing demands. I've totally fallen in love with the idea of SLI Hydro Coppers and from benching online they operate about 40 under heavy load at high framerates. What I'm doing from here is building around this core concept.
So kinda thinking what would be the optimal system to build round hydro coppers based on minimum noise, optimal cooling and looking stylish and cool in red and black theming.
Atm I'd say the core system would be a Saberooth with 2500k and 8GB vengeance RAM. Then 2 x SLI Hydro Copper.
I'm, fairly static on the OCZ Vertex drive backed by Raid 0 1TB Samsungs.
I'm also fixed on having the Creative soundcard so everything else needs to be built around this focusing on noise reduction and staying with the colour theming.
And you are certainly right about the monitor, I'd hope to eventually pair this with maybe a Dell U2711. I did also consider linking to my Bravia with an HDMI but 46" would prob punish my system.
Patrick Wolf
Platinum Member
The HR-02 is another passive heatsink for the CPU. Could also add a very quiet TY-140 fan to it. This way you'd only need to bother water cooling the GPU's, which make the most noise and generate the most heat afterall.
Getting a Creative card for gaming is moot now since virtually no newer games support EAX, plus Creative products should be avoided in general. Without EAX, Creative cards are nothing special. If you want a better quality card and if they're available check these out. http://www.htomega.com/
Screen size doesn't affect performance, only the resolution. If you have a 23" and a 100" screen, both at 1920x1080, your games would play exactly the same.
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