id be crazy to change my oil every 3k since i put on almost 3000 miles a month, hell i dgo poor 
... i generall stretch it to 5-6k and use synthetic
... i generall stretch it to 5-6k and use synthetic
BMW advises something like 15000 - 20000 miles.
i was shocked, had to do a double take.
guess they make some really tight engines, that can handle it, and dont get much in the way of contaminants.
i was shocked, had to do a double take.
guess they make some really tight engines, that can handle it, and dont get much in the way of contaminants.
XZeroII
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2001
- 12,572
- 0
- 0
Mine came w/synthetic oil and they told me they changed it before I got it (it has 4,500 miles on it, but it's still 'new'). The sticker says to change it at 7,500 miles (the one they put on there). I just got a letter saying that I should be at around 6000 miles now and should schedule an appointment to get it changed by them. The book says to change the oil when the Change Oil light comes on (it detects when the oil is bad, somehow). I have about 5,900 miles on it now and will probably change it around 6,500 to 7,000 just as a first change thing.
If I were to change my oil every 3000 miles I would need to change it every 2 and a half to 3 months.
Order of quality ;
Castrol
Valvoline
Pennzoil
Havoline, Mobil (petroleum based), coastal are crap, I used to work for Mobil, the oil I pumped into my customers vehicles sucked a$$, unfortunately because I was running a Mobil repair station, I had no choice in the matter.
These oils have the absolute minimum additives required to pass the A.S.E. service requirments, that's why you can find these oils for ninety nine cents a quart.
"Tightness" of the engine as you call it (Close tolerance engines) has nothing to do with it, it is the ability of the oil filter, air filter and PCV valve that determines the amount of dirt entering the engine.
Now mind you, certain manufactures raise thier oil change intervals because of the quality and design of thier materials they manufacture the engines out of.
It does not "detect" if the oil is bad, the odometer trips the light at a preset mileage.
MikeyIs4Dcats
Lifer
- Nov 5, 2001
- 18,366
- 3
- 0
- Oct 28, 1999
- 62,484
- 8,345
- 126
I thought BMW had a system that actually monitored the oil cleanliness and would prompt you when it needed to be changed. And it would do that as various milages based upon driving conditions and driving styles. Not based upon a preset milage.
As long as you're hereOriginally posted by: Roger
One word,..................Employees
,where does Quaker State rank in terms of oil quality? Specifically, their syntethic blends.My Grand Prix supposedly monitors engine conditions, mileage, etc., and displays the oil life as a percentage on the DIC. I don't really go by it though.
StageLeft
No Lifer
- Sep 29, 2000
- 70,150
- 5
- 0
For what it's worth the maxima runs on mobil 1 with a nissan filter and I change it every 5000-5500 miles (8-10 weeks). The manual says it's good for that sort of distance anyway (and that's with non-syn). I checked the oil yesterday and with 3800 miles on it it's still amber and clean. The sentra I give it valvoline maxlife and change it...whenever. I went 6.5 months last time (oops!), but I don't put nearly as many miles on it. And needless to say the oil was BLACK.
Wow, how did I miss this one?
It is true that the 3000 mile oil change is pretty much bunk held over from the earlier days of engines. Lubrication has improved immensely in the last 25 years.
In Europe, the standard oil change is 9,000 miles.
That said, follow whatever your manual recommends. They know best. If you want to err on the safe side, chose their "severe driving condition" change schedule.
The ONLY reason you should EVER leave an oil in your crankcase for longer than 7,500 miles or 6 months is if you are doing oil analysis.
It is true that the 3000 mile oil change is pretty much bunk held over from the earlier days of engines. Lubrication has improved immensely in the last 25 years.
In Europe, the standard oil change is 9,000 miles.
That said, follow whatever your manual recommends. They know best. If you want to err on the safe side, chose their "severe driving condition" change schedule.
The ONLY reason you should EVER leave an oil in your crankcase for longer than 7,500 miles or 6 months is if you are doing oil analysis.
If you are having labor issues I know a wise.. Ex-Ford mechanic that could use a change of pace.Originally posted by: Roger
One word,..................Screw it !!!
Edited for a more wise a$$ remark.
yeah, well... the most advanced work on cars i've done is changing a clutch on my camry, so whatever
with my reference of "tightness", i was referring to overall quality of the engine.
(in a rather wrong fashion).
I don't think it's possible. There is just no sensor that can accurately gauge engine oil condition. When you have oil analyzed, they put the sample through a mass spectrometer.
It may be able to take variables such as driving conditions in addition to milage to help determine, but.. that's about it.
siphoning some off, testing it, and returning it is out of the question?
(i know, it's completely wrong and stupid, but i was speaking hypothetically.
(i know, it's completely wrong and stupid, but i was speaking hypothetically.
They may or may not, I try to avoid late model German vehicles because the factory is so anal retentive.
They are up there as long as you purchase full synthetic, "synthetic blends" give you no advantage what so ever, The reason Synthetic is superior to Petroleum based oils is because they contain long chain molecules which resist breakdown and they do not contain any waxes and other non-essential crap which is inherently found in petroleum based oils.
"Synthetic blends" are nothing more than Synthetic oil mixed with petroleum based oil, what is the sense of buying something like that ?
IMHO, Amsoil is the best Synthetic there is, but it cannot be purchased at automotive outlets and it is very $
K-Mart sells Mobil for ninety nine cents a quart, Mobil synthetic is OK.
Trust me when I tell you, you don't want to work for me, I am like any other lizard boss, a total scumbag that treats his employees like the dirt that they really are
I was working on a massive oil specifications spread sheet a while back, but it got kinda difficult to find the manufacturer's specifications, so I shelved it.. Maybe I should open it up again.
Mobil1 synthetic oil is pretty good stuff, but there are better..
I don't remember specs from their dino oil.
Castol has a pretty high TBN.. but there are better(usually synethics)..
AMSOil is some of the best oil money can buy, but it is expensive.. and hard to find in B&M.
GI Joes carries it..
Mobil1 synthetic oil is pretty good stuff, but there are better..
I don't remember specs from their dino oil.
Castol has a pretty high TBN.. but there are better(usually synethics)..
AMSOil is some of the best oil money can buy, but it is expensive.. and hard to find in B&M.
GI Joes carries it..
Triumph
Lifer
- Oct 9, 1999
- 15,031
- 14
- 81
But sadly, thanks to Castrol and their lawyers, there are two types of "full" synthetic: Ones that use a fully synthetic base stock (Mobil 1, Valvoline Synpower, Redline, Amsoil), and others that use dino oil as base stock and combine it with a boatload of synthetic additives (Castrol). The courts ruled that Castrol is still allowed to label this and sell it as a "full" synthetic, however.
Not really a constructive post, just dropping a line saying I love reading Roger's posts in auto threads. One of the few folks that knows what their talking about and answers questions about their profession (usually )without being condescending.
:beer:
)without being condescending. :beer:
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