• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Road Biking - anyone here do it? **Update- test rode few bikes**

Zeze

Zeze

Lifer
---8/1 update---

Jesus Christ.. so many effin' bikes. The more I research, the less I know. I mean WTF. The bikes available for my needs (adventure bike @ 90% road) are:

All in the $700-1400 range

Specialized Diverge DSW Elite (tested)
Felt V85 or V100
Raleigh Merit 2 or 3
Giant Revolt 1 or 3 (although these lean less toward road for my liking)
Jamis Renegade Exile or Expat
Salsa Vaya Claris
...and more

I test rode something today, I don't even remember WTF it was.

I'm just operating on an assumption that the STOCK tire width these bikes come in are naturally their primary purpose.

So skinnier = more road (30mm~), fatter = slower, better comfort & off-roading.

Is my approach of above + test riding okay/correct/sufficient?

So Specialized Diverge DSW Elite is 30mm. This bike felt super fast, but what I do know, I have nothing to compare it to. I don't know if something is comfortable or not because my ass hurts from roadbike seats + getting used to drop-handle bars.

It's both exciting and frustrating. I wish there was a huge bike shop which had all these bikes side-by-side so I can ride them all.

I'm charmed by that ad video of Jamis Renegade series, but judging by its 36mm, I feel that's too much towards off-road. Who knows. Only way to find out is by riding.


---7/31 update---
Now, it's become clearer to me that I'm looking for a road bike, not MTB. I tested out Specialized Diverge DWS Elite


So apparently, what I'm looking for is actually a recent trend. A primary road bike with a hint of off-road capability, but nowhere near hybrids/cyclocross.

I guess they call them Adventure bikes today.

This thing is a bullet. You spin/crank, and it feels like every energy from you is sent to the bike. It glides and keeps the momentum.

Maybe in couple years I can do a weekend trip by biking all the way to the tip of Long Island.

I found the controls bit awkward. I don't know if that's because I'm just not used to the drop bar. The brake trigger felt too far from my fingers and too close to the your mom. As a result, I braking wasn't intuitive and made me nervous of the whole ride.

I want to check out Jamis Renegade series too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8boqEoSFmDg

Will do so sometime this week or next weekend.

Recommend other bikes of this type? Giant Revolt 3 falls under this right?





-- 7/28 Afternoon update --
I was so excited, I went to a local shop nearby work. I met their no-frill mechanic who just told me tons of info.

He showed me Raleigh Talus 29 / 17 frame at $520 new.

Probably because I'm new and ignorant, it seemed to have what you need and more as a beginner:
* front suspension that can be on/off
* disc brakes
* hydraulic shifts

Then I asked him, what am I getting more if I spend double on it? ($1000-1500) It didn't seem worth double the price to me:
* full suspension
* better drive train = just more gradual gear shifts
* a clutch so your chain doesn't slack
* fox shocks

Questions.

1. What do you think about Raleigh Talus at that price for me?

2. What are the downsides of this bike that's really desired?

3. What are some other alternatives?

4. This bike can hit up most moderate trails just fine right? i.e. this shouldn't be limiting me long before I become quite advanced.

5. I'm 5'11"~ This 17" frame is for 5'3" to 5'9". I'm right on the cusp. I tried the 19" as well, and it felt fuller and comfortable, but also bulkier too. Should I go with 17" or 19"






---------- 7/28 OP -------------

I know nothing about mountain biking. I'm out of shape now but I used to jog 3-5 miles casually.



I'm NOT looking for hardcore MTBing with big jumps and insane cliffs (I think of motorcross). I just want to go out in the nature and hit very casual trails in the nature.
  • So what kind of bicycle and how much? I assume I'll want some kind of a middle-of-the-road / hybrid bicycle that can handle covering long distance and off-asphalt terrain.
  • What are must-have starting gears? Obviously bicycle & helmet. Then what? Just like any hobby, I think it's like a rabbit hole. But need must-haves.
  • Where to find trails? I live in Northern NJ, close to the other side of Hudson river.
And most importantly, can you point me to best MTB online resource / community?

  • Should I MTB or go cycling? I can't make up my mind. Covering long distance in a scenic ride via cycling on asphalt is appealing to me. But dealing with traffic and becoming that 'cyclist vs traffic' is not appealing.
 
Last edited:
mtbr.com

my recommendation would be to go to a local bike shop that sells Giant or Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz is an expensive boutique brand, but they just came out with a new aluminum line with of their insanely expensive carbon fiber bikes. Giant imo is the best bang for the buck.

components wise:
1. good brakes are a must. at least shimano slx
2. dropper post, because you will get bored of flat terrain quickly. to handle steeper downhills, you will have to lower your seat. the dropper post allows you bring it up and down with the touch of a button so you don't have to interrupt your flow by dismounting and fussing with the seat.
3. tubeless tires. because getting flat tires suck, tubeless tires pretty much eliminated getting flat tires for me

after that it's pretty much trying out bikes that you are comfortable with. at first your back will hurt from being hunched over, but that goes away. don't get a bike too small, shops like to push smaller bikes because they don't sell. make sure to get one for your height.

right now the aluminum santa cruz 5010 or the bronson would be my recommendation. it starts at 2.9k. lower than that, you should look to used/demo bikes
 
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/3ht_new_xii.htm

That's the one I went with a few years back for a beginner level and it seems to be a good price point, especially for casual trails. Downside to getting it online (cheaper) is that you have to put some of it together yourself, which wasn't too difficult and it allows you to maintain it since you're more familiar with it. You can still bring it into a LBS after.
 
Last edited:
brainhulk said:
it starts at 2.9k. lower than that, you should look to used/demo bikes
Click to expand...

Eeek. I'm just starting out and know nothing about MTB. At best I'm thinking $300-500 including helmets and accessories.

Unless you tell me that is completely unacceptable (and why), I don't think I should drop 3G.
 
Yeah 3k is a little outrageous for a guy starting out. You can get a real nice used bike for $1000 or so in october when all the chumps who thought they were going to be mtn bike studs quit and sell them before winter.


With a little work, you can find a used starter for $500 on craigslist. I got my mtn bike for $500 a few years back, a used Trek fuel 80, worked real well until some asshole stole it
 
brainhulk said:
mtbr.com

my recommendation would be to go to a local bike shop that sells Giant or Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz is an expensive boutique brand, but they just came out with a new aluminum line with of their insanely expensive carbon fiber bikes. Giant imo is the best bang for the buck.

components wise:
1. good brakes are a must. at least shimano slx
2. dropper post, because you will get bored of flat terrain quickly. to handle steeper downhills, you will have to lower your seat. the dropper post allows you bring it up and down with the touch of a button so you don't have to interrupt your flow by dismounting and fussing with the seat.
3. tubeless tires. because getting flat tires suck, tubeless tires pretty much eliminated getting flat tires for me

after that it's pretty much trying out bikes that you are comfortable with. at first your back will hurt from being hunched over, but that goes away. don't get a bike too small, shops like to push smaller bikes because they don't sell. make sure to get one for your height.

right now the aluminum santa cruz 5010 or the bronson would be my recommendation. it starts at 2.9k. lower than that, you should look to used/demo bikes
Click to expand...

LOL You're telling somebody that just wants to dip their to in the pool to get a $3K bike? LOL

OP -- you're first and most important step is to go to a local bike shop (or several) and talk to them directly about what you want to do, what your plans are and what your budget is.

Always ride the bike before you buy.

Disclaimer: I worked in a local bike shop for 10+ years and was seriously into mountain biking for just as many
 
Zeze said:
Eeek. I'm just starting out and know nothing about MTB. At best I'm thinking $300-500 including helmets and accessories.

Unless you tell me that is completely unacceptable (and why), I don't think I should drop 3G.
Click to expand...

I guess it depends on what type of terrain is in your area and how far you think you will stick with it. I bought a used bike off (GT force) Craigslist for $800 and it was a solid bike. In fact it is so solid my cousin is still using it. To get that longevity on any moderate trails, you have to get quality parts and that's not going to happen with a $400 bike. If you shop around for demos and used, you can find alot of great deals. Of course if you just plan to ride just mostly flat fire roads than that range from bikesdirect.com will work. They also have some great bikes in the higher price points too. But I like to support my local bike shop, since they do all my service and repairs. They soon give you better discounts the more they see you
 
MTBR as mentioned already is a great source for information and even has a 'beginner' section. $300-500 will be tough if you are going to buy new so if that's your budget with no fudging then looking used is recommended. However this is another possible red flag as you might get something that's completely wore out and not know it before hand. There's a lot of things that can go wrong when buying used if you don't already know a little bit about it all. Hitting up a local LBS is probably the best advice at this point. A decent entry level (real mtb) will start at ~$700. The Giant Talon would be a good bike to get if you can swing the budget to go to around $700.

There use to be a lot of positive talk about the Forge Sawback hardtail sold through Target stores but only online. It was decently specced and priced well. However, I do not know for sure if the newer versions are as highly regarded as the previous ones but if you are on a strict budget this might be an option. You might want to do further research on this one.

http://www.target.com/p/forge-sawback-7xx-mountain-27-5-bike/-/A-50232876

Any way you decide to go I recommend you go to your LBS and get sized so you will know what size bike to get when you're ready to buy.

I will say that I just started riding in March of this year and love it. I live 10 minutes from a state park that has 17 miles of MTB trails. it's a blast and get really mad/depressed on days I can't go ride now....I'm absolutely addicted.
 
In my opinion, you'd be better off with a good quality used mountain bike than with a new mountain bike that only cost $200. If you're going to ride the bike solely on city streets and sidewalks, it probably doesn't make a difference. But, if you're going to be going over bumps, etc. - mountain biking - then there's going to be a big difference in comfort and ease.
 
You'll probably want a camelback and gloves (fingerless). When you sweat or ride in the rain, you need the grip on the handle bars that the gloves provide.

Get a hard tail (aka: front suspension only). More money makes a lower weight which is nice.

Get some padded shorts. Your ass will thank you.

Your local bike shop will be able to provide places to ride. Sounds like you want fast single track and double track. Tell them that you don't want to do anything super technical.

If you want to use it on road, you need to compromise on tires. There are hybrid tires that have a pattern in the center that is pretty solid (no tread). Not as good for dirt/mud though. The other option is to get a second set of rims and tires assuming you have quick releases on the front and back but then you are throwing a lot of money at a problem.
 
You don't need a 3k bike...but I'd shoot for a $1200 budget if possible (for everything).

There have already been some good suggestions for bikes in the 700-900 range. That is new. You always can get a better deal on used...but you won't get the help on choosing the right one that you might get from a local bike shop.

Another option is to wait till October and see what last year models are on sale. I got my first Gary Fisher many years ago for $1400 (normal price was $2500). While I moved on from that bike years ago...I road some pretty crazy stuff on that bike (Moab, etc).

I think a hardtail new or a full suspension on clearance would be your best bet.

As mentioned, mtbr.com is a great resource...but be careful. Just like most online "gear" research...you'll likely get the impression that you need more bike/gear than you actually need to get started.

Past the bike, here are a few more things you will want:
1) helmet
2) gloves
3) padded bike shorts
4) glasses (cheapo protection from Home Depot is fine)

Finally, the best resource for finding local trails is mtbproject.com (at least in CO/UT...not sure how well other regions data is...but I would start there). There are other apps out there (Trailforks, etc)...but mtbproject is still my favorite.
 
Last edited:
Zeze said:
Should I MTB or go cycling? I can't make up my mind. Covering long distance in a scenic ride via cycling on asphalt is appealing to me. But dealing with traffic and becoming that 'cyclist vs traffic' is not appealing.
[/LIST]
Click to expand...

Haven't ridden a MTB in years, but I cycle 3-4 times a week. If you are looking for adrenaline, go MTB. If you want to just kinda roll around on roads and look at stuff, go road.

There is a bit of a middleground in cyclo-cross, but that probably won't fit with a $500 budget, I think.

cyclist v. traffic is only an issue if people around you don't know how to drive around cyclists. Unfortunately that's pretty common, but there's lots of safety steps to make it easier for cyclists.
 
brainhulk said:
mtbr.com

my recommendation would be to go to a local bike shop that sells Giant or Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz is an expensive boutique brand, but they just came out with a new aluminum line with of their insanely expensive carbon fiber bikes. Giant imo is the best bang for the buck.

components wise:
1. good brakes are a must. at least shimano slx
2. dropper post, because you will get bored of flat terrain quickly. to handle steeper downhills, you will have to lower your seat. the dropper post allows you bring it up and down with the touch of a button so you don't have to interrupt your flow by dismounting and fussing with the seat.
3. tubeless tires. because getting flat tires suck, tubeless tires pretty much eliminated getting flat tires for me

after that it's pretty much trying out bikes that you are comfortable with. at first your back will hurt from being hunched over, but that goes away. don't get a bike too small, shops like to push smaller bikes because they don't sell. make sure to get one for your height.

right now the aluminum santa cruz 5010 or the bronson would be my recommendation. it starts at 2.9k. lower than that, you should look to used/demo bikes
Click to expand...

Man, that's a lot of scratch for someone just starting out. Personally, I'd get a decent hardtail 29er if you're a big/tall guy. If you're short then something like a hardtail 27.5 would be my recommendation.

I picked up a good end of year deal on a prior year model Giant Talon 29er a couple years ago for $899. It was originally $1300. Bike has been solid and comfortable and I've put probably a thousand or so miles on it.

Whatever you get, make sure it has disc brakes and not rim brakes. Disc brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes.

This is my bike. I've since ditched the water bottle and gone with a camelbak. I also have a tubeless setup on it now with fatter tires. Upgraded wheels are Easton EA70s. They roll smoothly and are bomb proof. Plus, they are lighter than the stock wheels and they were tubeless ready, unlike the shit OEM wheels the bike came with.

20131027_105536.jpg
 
Last edited:
If you want to try it, look for some demo days, where companies bring in their bikes and you can ride for free. I did that with my wife before we bought anything for her. She already had a helmet, and that is all you really need to start, a helmet and a bike.

If there are no places nearby that do demo days, buy a $300~ bike off craiglist with a front suspension, and a hard rear end. They call those hard tails. Then get a good helmet from a local bike shop. If you don't know much about bikes, or are not mechanically inclined, local bike shops can be really good resources for learning, and fixing stuff on our own with them. Some even do seminars about basic repairs/maintenance.

My moto for MTB is hike biking. I don't go to be really fast, like those full spandex dudes, although sometimes I can slam some hills and jumps, I just like to go out and hike bike.

Here's my bike:

eWeMazN.jpg


I got it for a steal, and upgraded the brakes to shimano XT's.

MTBR is an awesome resource, looks like NJ has a few trails too:
http://trails.mtbr.com/cat/united-states-trails/trails-new-jersey/pls_4564crx.aspx
 
Last edited:
DrPizza said:
In my opinion, you'd be better off with a good quality used mountain bike than with a new mountain bike that only cost $200. If you're going to ride the bike solely on city streets and sidewalks, it probably doesn't make a difference. But, if you're going to be going over bumps, etc. - mountain biking - then there's going to be a big difference in comfort and ease.
Click to expand...

The problem with used bikes is they sometimes may need expensive repairs. Fork overhauls aren't cheap and servicing disc brakes isn't either. You might get lucky and find one that was barely ridden but if it was ridden like the guys I work with ride them they may need extensive servicing. A friend of mine bought a nice full suspension 29er from a co-worker only to find the fork needed servicing which cost him almost $300. And he paid $1500 for the bike used (it was a really nice bike).
 
Disc brakes are worth it if in budget. Water means nothing to them and they are VERY consistent. Consistent in that dents in the rim don't effect them like traditional brakes.
 
As someone that just got back into biking about two years ago after taking 15+ years off, I think I can help. There are a lot of options out there, so many buzz words, new standards, wheel sizes, and everyone has differing opinions on which is best.

As far as communities, MTBr is a good place to start reading and so is singletracks. Just don't ask about eBikes. 😉

Youtube is full of great channels for newbies and vets alike. GMBN and Seth's bike hacks are two awesome channels for getting an idea of what kind of bike you may want, and all the basic concepts that will help you become very confident on them. Skill > equipment.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_A--fhX5gea0i4UtpD99Gg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu8YylsPiu9XfaQC74Hr_Gw/featured


On the topic of buying a bike, Dr. Pizza is correct that a good used bike is way better than a new "meh" bike. However, if you are new to biking you will have no idea what to look for in a used bike. What standards to stay away from, signs of trouble, if you're getting a good deal or overpaying.

With that said, I strongly urge you to find a good local bike shop. They will help you find a great starter bike that fits you well so you can focus on enjoying the trails and learning riding skills. A bike is like a shoe, what fits others won't fit you. I could write a whole post on geometry, but you don't need to worry yourself about that until after you've logged some good miles on the trails. Some larger shops may even offer bike that you can rent for a day, which is a great way to really understand how different bikes feel and act out on the trails. The bike shop will also likely give you a decent discount on all the safety gear, and usually throw in a few free tune ups to keep your bike rolling.

You don't need hydraulic breaks, dropper post, boost hubs, or XT kit on your first bike. You do need a solid frame built up with quality entry level parts that will do their jobs and be serviceable by you or a bike shop. I know that from a few feet away a $200 and $500 bike look the same, but there are so many small details that come together to make a quality and safe bike.

Kona makes a really nice starter bike, the Lana'i that can be found for $530. It was the bike I bought two years ago, and it has only gotten better with the new models. Trek also has some good options for less than $600, even one that goes for less than $400!

At the end of the day, buy what fits you and your budget. As you get more adventurous you'll learn what kind of rider you are and what type of bike is best for your style of riding. Don't worry about getting the perfect bike now, because N+1 will take effect.
 
Last edited:
Your situation is perfect for a hybrid, as you already surmised. Bikesdirect has a good inexpensive selection. under $400 shipped with disc brakes

You are not looking to hammer singletrack or bomb downhills, if you progress to that, sell it and buy a MTB. My bro had a hybrid and for riders with needs like his/your's they are great. Some of the things they offer that make it perfect for entry level casual riding include -

1.They are comfortable. From a more upright riding posture, to the suspension seat post. Not being horribly saddle sore the first few rides means you are out more often, and do not have to go through pain for gain.

2. Much better than MTB for road riding, and can take much more abuse than a road bike. If you have to jump a curb, hit the soft shoulder, etc. they can handle what road bikes do not do well. Not as fast or light as roadie, but you can still put some good rides in, that would be daunting for a n00b MTBer.

3. Well groomed trails, rail trails, and such it is going to be serviceable. Enough for you to enjoy nature and have some fun. Do not push it into trails with baby heads, big exposed roots, tight singletrack, or downhills not super well groomed. It is not designed for it, and you may break you and the bike.

Really ideal for the riding you have in mind. If the bug bites you sell it and get a MTB. Must haves are helmet, hydration backpack, bike multitool, mini pump, extra tube/s.
 
Last edited:
what dapunisher said. I'll add:

I used to live up near the Delaware water gap. Beautiful trails there.

I picked up a giant hybrid for around $400.- at the lehigh gorge/jim thorpe. It was a rental bike that I like so much I made the shop owner an offer. Might want to try renting to see if the bike fits you right. No better way than to go on a 22 mile ride.

Its a Giant Sedona. I grew up on dirt bikes then mountain bikes. As I got older it became harder to be hunched over the bars. I started the rail-trail trip on my trusty hardtail cannondale. Misery. Rented the giant hybrid bike. Revelation. The more upright riding position along with front shock and seat shock make long rides MUCH more enjoyable now. I can still do OK on a nasty single track too if the mood strikes me. I haven't ridden my cannondale in years. The giant is on it's third set of tires and could use a new ring and chain set too. I estimate it has around 6500 miles on it after 5 years of use.
 
Last edited:
I was so excited, I went to a local shop nearby work. I met their no-frill mechanic who just told me tons of info.

He showed me Raleigh Talus 29 / 17 frame at $520 new.

Probably because I'm new and ignorant, it seemed to have what you need and more as a beginner:
* front suspension that can be on/off
* disc brakes
* hydraulic shifts

Then I asked him, what am I getting more if I spend double on it? ($1000-1500) It didn't seem worth double the price to me:
* full suspension
* better drive train = just more gradual gear shifts
* a clutch so your chain doesn't slack
* fox shocks

Questions.

1. What do you think about Raleigh Talus at that price for me?

2. What are the downsides of this bike that's really desired?

3. What are some other alternatives?

4. This bike can hit up most moderate trails just fine right? i.e. this shouldn't be limiting me long before I become quite advanced.

5. I'm 5'11"~ This 17" frame is for 5'3" to 5'9". I'm right on the cusp. I tried the 19" as well, and it felt fuller and comfortable, but also bulkier too. Should I go with 17" or 19"
 
yea i went overboard with my santa cruz recommendation, but then again i'm a huge fanboy. My carbon Bronson is imo the perfect bike. The aluminum version could quite honestly be the only bike that can be used everywhere. Flat, cross country, and serious tech.

i was just picturing what I would have told myself when I first started out. Thus saving myself alot of time, experimentation, and money on a lesser bike.

My opinion regarding hardtail vs full suspension:
Many in my group started out with hardtail, as did I. Everyone eventually switched to full suspension because we quickly realized the trails we were doing were to tough for a hardtail. So that was more money we lost. As I gained experience, I have fallen back in love with hardtails because they are lighter, climb better, and maneuver fantastically. You learn how to pick your lines and your muscles get stronger, and it becomes very rewarding. But on rougher trails, there is no getting around that it just beats your body up.

Once again all this becomes irrelevant if the trails you think you will be doing will be flat fire roads. I guess I was just picturing what advice to give myself when I first started out.
 
Which Raleigh Talus? 1,2,3,4? Is $500 your budget for a new bike?

Did you try it? Was it comfortable? That's really key for wanting/staying on. If it is uncomfortable you won't want to get on and ride.

brainhulk, I actually started with a $3,000 full suspension trek fuel ex, liked it, but hated every time I bite it, felt like I was losing $$$ haha. So I got a trek stache and upgraded a few things, I feel a lot better about abusing that then the fuel. I also got the trek stache new for $800. I am also prefering the hard tail, I always had my rear shock as stiff as it would go, and still wanted it stiffer. Hard tail is way better for the trails over in MN for sure.

Also 29 vs the 26 on the fuel, reallly preferring the 29.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top