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Retardedly hard to get to parts that shouldn't be.

Had the same removed the intake problem on my 2.5L avenger, wasn't quite as horrible as it seems, ~8 bolts, put the new gasket on, oh well 2 hr job. The worst I've heard is one of the Ford mini vans (aerostar ~1997 iirc) required you to actually remove the engine to change the spark plugs, and they weren't the 100k mile plugs like the Avenger, it was 8 hours ever 20k miles.
 
How about a 1997 Deville with the Northstar engine..... and probably many other with that engine........You have to remove the intake to replace the starter..
 
I replaced the headers on a '94 Mustang GT once and after wrestling with the left side header for about an hour I finally was able to get it out past the master cylinder. For a while there I thought I was going to have to remove the master cylinder.
 
Changing the friggin thermostat on my 240sx is a bitch. You have to pry open the fan shroud, take all the belts off and move the water pump out of the way. The mechanic (a friend) was cursing me since he only quoted me $30 to do the job and didn't realize how much work was needed to be done for changing it.
 
Spark plugs are notorious on flat engines, like Subaru's (I'm sure Porsche's too, but I have zero experience there). It looks like the ones on my Legacy (2006) aren't too bad, but on the older platforms (like my 97 Legacy wagon or bugeye WRX's) you have to pull the battery, washer reservoir, intake, and coil packs.

I got the dealer to do my 97's full 60K maintenance (including new plug wires because the old ones were rotting & they had to jack the engine up to get them off) for $375. Luckily they screwed up when quoting me for the plugs in the first place and then didn't tell me they were going ahead with another $400 in labor to jack the engine up. The service manager made things right :thumbsup:

Looks like my 2006 should be much simpler:
http://legacygt.com/forums/sho...0&highlight=spark+plug

Bugeye WRX:
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/...e-your-sparkplugs.html
 
What's a Buick 3300 engine ? ? I think you meant the 3800 Series V6 Gen 1 / 2 / 3 (same as in the Pontiac Grand Prix 1998 - 2003 or so)
And yes the rear plugs are a bit of a trick ... best way is a well padded blanket, lay over the engine and a very good work lamp.
 
Originally posted by: bruceb
What's a Buick 3300 engine ? ? I think you meant the 3800 Series V6 Gen 1 / 2 / 3 (same as in the Pontiac Grand Prix 1998 - 2003 or so)
And yes the rear plugs are a bit of a trick ... best way is a well padded blanket, lay over the engine and a very good work lamp.
Click to expand...

Actually, having done them, the trick is to remove the top front engine mount (the one right infront of you when you open the hood) and rock the engine forward. Gives you much more room to work.
 
Front sway bar on 4 cylinder Honda accord coupe (2003-2007). Have to drop the sub-frame to replace the damn bar.
 
Originally posted by: Kroze
Front sway bar on 4 cylinder Honda accord coupe (2003-2007). Have to drop the sub-frame to replace the damn bar.
Click to expand...

That's the reason I decided not upgrade the front. TL rear sway FTW though!
 
To replace the radiator fan relay on a 00 Jeep Grand Cherokee you have to first remove the front bumper fascia.
 
Waterpump on the porsche 944 is behind this plastic cover for the timing belt. The cover could just have an opening, but instead porsche decided that you should remove all the pulleys off the motor and slide the cover off that way. Needless to say, it took me 5 mins to make the opening with a dremel.

Edit:

Forgot the better one:
Starter on an audi a4 v6. Take off bumper, unbolt radiator support and move it forward, unbolt power steering pump and only then you can actually unbolt the starter. That was a biatch...
 
Originally posted by: Demon-Xanth
Originally posted by: bruceb
What's a Buick 3300 engine ? ? I think you meant the 3800 Series V6 Gen 1 / 2 / 3 (same as in the Pontiac Grand Prix 1998 - 2003 or so)
And yes the rear plugs are a bit of a trick ... best way is a well padded blanket, lay over the engine and a very good work lamp.
Click to expand...

Actually, having done them, the trick is to remove the top front engine mount (the one right infront of you when you open the hood) and rock the engine forward. Gives you much more room to work.
Click to expand...

Correct, and there is even a spot on the mount to reinsert the bolt to hold the engine forward while your working on it..🙂
 
Yes, you can rock the motor forward to get to them. Last time the dealer did my rear plugs, he did not do that, but got to them by going over the motor. Either way will do it, I prefer not to move the motor if I can avoid it.
 
Alternator on an 88 MR2 was pretty damn hard to do. It's crammed in the trunk between the firewall and engine and almost impossible for a non-midget to access.

Dropping the exhaust, rear end, and gas tank to change the fuel pump on my 87 camaro was pretty retarded. I could change the alternator in less than 2 minutes though, and the spark plugs took about 5 minutes on each side.
 
The back plugs on F150 4.6L V8.

Plugs are like 4-5 inches straight down in a tube. The cowl hangs over the back two.

 
fuel tank on a Volkswagon Rabbit diesel. The entire rear suspension including axle must be removed first, I believe it's listed as an 8+ hour job.

Even the evaporator on my 1987 Crown Vic is listed as a 4 hour job. And it is a bitch to get at.

 
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