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Resurfacing an Asphalt Driveway

C

Carbo

Diamond Member
Our existing asphalt driveway is 21 years old and looks it. We were going to replace it with concrete, but with quotes coming in at around $5K to $6K, when I stopped crying I realized resurfacing the asphalt is the wise choice.
The driveway is 25' long by 17' wide. It does have a puddling problem at the bottom, so that when it rains there is a 2 to 3 inch puddle.
Otherwise, we are looking at a fairly straightforward resurface. But what I find perplexing is that the quotes are all over the place. So far I have been quoted between $800 and $2,000! How can there be such a discrepancy for the same job? What should I look for?
 
1: Be sure jou get a "primer" applied before resurfacing. New asphalt must bind to the old. Hence the spraying of (they call it oil, always a sign saying "Fresh Oil") asphalt primer on highways right before they pave them.
2: The best job will be done with a "Paver", a machine that lays the asphalt down near perfect. Trying to lay asphalt byhand could be a disaster, with pits and dips everywhere, however, an experienced paver may do a good job by hand.
Chances are, the cheaper quotes do not include primer and/or the use of machinery.
 
My dad use to own an asphalt company and a good reputation is priceless. Ask for referrals and contact them. Beware of family ties if you know what I mean.

The difference in cost may be different the methods of repair. It costs more to redo everything by putting a good base of processed gravel plus 2 to 4 inches of asphalt base and 1 inch of topcoat. The cheaper guys may also have a number of jobs in the area at the same time. Why don?t you just ask them? Ask if you can do any prep work in advance that might help save some money.

I got a number of estimates for a roof repair when I lived in S Florida that ranged from $350 to $20,000. We chose the $350 guy because he had good referrals. He also moon lighted his regular Roofing Repair job on the weekends with a co-worker and his son. I also provided some marine grade plywood for the repair. The roof still passed inspection when I finally sold the house 5 years later and is still good after last years hurricanes .
 
mixing cement isn't that hard

if there is a day laborer pickup site near you i'm sure you could put in a concrete drive way yourself pretty cheaply
 
Originally posted by: Marlin1975
Why not dig up the current drive way and then do the prep work. Call the concrete truck out and do it yourself?
Click to expand...
Yes it's all in the quality of the base. Some good pick, shovel and sweat work can save hundreds of dollars and your drive will last a lot longer.
 
First, I am not talking about concrete. I was quoted prices for concrete in the $4K range, and more, and it doesn't make sense since our time frame in this house is two years or less.
So we decided to resurface the existing asphalt driveway. That's when I started shopping around.
I'm being told that it is very unusual to rip out the old asphalt driveway. Instead, it remains as the base for the new asphalt. The quoted prices are for laying down about 1.5 to 2 inches of fresh asphalt on top of the old.
But now there is one exception: someone just told me that ripping up the old is necessary before laying down the new, otherwise the new driveway will crack within the year. 😕
This is why I hate these damn home improvement projects. Every "expert" tells you something different, and you end up not knowing who to believe.
 
Originally posted by: Carbo
First, I am not talking about concrete. I was quoted prices for concrete in the $4K range, and more, and it doesn't make sense since our time frame in this house is two years or less.
So we decided to resurface the existing asphalt driveway. That's when I started shopping around.
I'm being told that it is very unusual to rip out the old asphalt driveway. Instead, it remains as the base for the new asphalt. The quoted prices are for laying down about 1.5 to 2 inches of fresh asphalt on top of the old.
But now there is one exception: someone just told me that ripping up the old is necessary before laying down the new, otherwise the new driveway will crack within the year. 😕
This is why I hate these damn home improvement projects. Every "expert" tells you something different, and you end up not knowing who to believe.
Click to expand...
Not true all you have to do is spray down an asphalt binder before you add a fresh top coat. As long as the base is good with no major cracking you should have no problems.

 
Originally posted by: FlashG
Originally posted by: Carbo
First, I am not talking about concrete. I was quoted prices for concrete in the $4K range, and more, and it doesn't make sense since our time frame in this house is two years or less.
So we decided to resurface the existing asphalt driveway. That's when I started shopping around.
I'm being told that it is very unusual to rip out the old asphalt driveway. Instead, it remains as the base for the new asphalt. The quoted prices are for laying down about 1.5 to 2 inches of fresh asphalt on top of the old.
But now there is one exception: someone just told me that ripping up the old is necessary before laying down the new, otherwise the new driveway will crack within the year. 😕
This is why I hate these damn home improvement projects. Every "expert" tells you something different, and you end up not knowing who to believe.
Click to expand...
Not true all you have to do is spray down an asphalt binder before you add a fresh top coat. As long as the base is good with no major cracking you should have no problems.
Click to expand...
Therein lies the problem. What constitutes a good base? There is a hole along the border on one side, and I'm told that will be filled in prior to the new asphalt being applied. One guy told me that any crack in the base will make its way to the surface within a year.
 
Originally posted by: Carbo
Originally posted by: FlashG
Originally posted by: Carbo
First, I am not talking about concrete. I was quoted prices for concrete in the $4K range, and more, and it doesn't make sense since our time frame in this house is two years or less.
So we decided to resurface the existing asphalt driveway. That's when I started shopping around.
I'm being told that it is very unusual to rip out the old asphalt driveway. Instead, it remains as the base for the new asphalt. The quoted prices are for laying down about 1.5 to 2 inches of fresh asphalt on top of the old.
But now there is one exception: someone just told me that ripping up the old is necessary before laying down the new, otherwise the new driveway will crack within the year. 😕
This is why I hate these damn home improvement projects. Every "expert" tells you something different, and you end up not knowing who to believe.
Click to expand...
Not true all you have to do is spray down an asphalt binder before you add a fresh top coat. As long as the base is good with no major cracking you should have no problems.
Click to expand...
Therein lies the problem. What constitutes a good base? There is a hole along the border on one side, and I'm told that will be filled in prior to the new asphalt being applied. One guy told me that any crack in the base will make its way to the surface within a year.
Click to expand...
The base I'm talking about is the condition of what?s under the Asphalt. If you have a 20 year old drive its base has settled years ago. We use to do patch work for all of the Grosse Point School systems so I know what I'm talking about. You obviously don't need to do a complete drive unless you just want to spend money.

To patch a hole you need to pull out all the loose rock and tamp in some new base (gravel) followed by a course grade of asphalt with large stones (we used grade 9A). Then you cover the whole drive with a fine grade of asphalt which consists of sand and finer material (we used 31A). They may now call this by different name but the concept is the same.

Someone else also mentioned equipment. Ask your contractor if he uses a spreader box and what he uses for compaction. A spreader box makes sure that the surface is smooth. He also needs a good rake man (or loot man) to even out any low spots. This is followed by a powered roller that may be 4 to 6 tons that is used to compress the sand and rock around the asphalt binder. If he has this type of equipment you probably won't get a cold patch rip off artist.
 
Originally posted by: FlashG
The base I'm talking about is the condition of what?s under the Asphalt. If you have a 20 year old drive its base has settled years ago. We use to do patch work for all of the Grosse Point School systems so I know what I'm talking about. You obviously don't need to do a complete drive unless you just want to spend money.

To patch a hole you need to pull out all the loose rock and tamp in some new base (gravel) followed by a course grade of asphalt with large stones (we used grade 9A). Then you cover the whole drive with a fine grade of asphalt which consists of sand and finer material (we used 31A). They may now call this by different name but the concept is the same.

Someone else also mentioned equipment. Ask your contractor if he uses a spreader box and what he uses for compaction. A spreader box makes sure that the surface is smooth. He also needs a good rake man (or loot man) to even out any low spots. This is followed by a powered roller that may be 4 to 6 tons that is used to compress the sand and rock around the asphalt binder. If he has this type of equipment you probably won't get a cold patch rip off artist.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. Now I feel like the playing field is level. Think I'll call back these gents next week and probe a bit more. 😉

 
Originally posted by: FlashG


How did you get a pic of my house? Are you a stalker?
Click to expand...
Doing water layups has got to be a biatch.

[/quote]

The little ones can dunk it if they stand on the bow pulpit! :laugh:

 
Originally posted by: FlashG
...
To patch a hole you need to pull out all the loose rock and tamp in some new base (gravel) followed by a course grade of asphalt with large stones (we used grade 9A). Then you cover the whole drive with a fine grade of asphalt which consists of sand and finer material (we used 31A). They may now call this by different name but the concept is the same...
Click to expand...

It used to be AR 4000 and AR 8000 here in California. 3/8, 1/2 or 3/4 rock.
Now the have what they call Performance Graded (PG) asphalt which is based upon climate zones.


 
Originally posted by: oldsmoboat
Originally posted by: FlashG
...
To patch a hole you need to pull out all the loose rock and tamp in some new base (gravel) followed by a course grade of asphalt with large stones (we used grade 9A). Then you cover the whole drive with a fine grade of asphalt which consists of sand and finer material (we used 31A). They may now call this by different name but the concept is the same...
Click to expand...

It used to be AR 4000 and AR 8000 here in California. 3/8, 1/2 or 3/4 rock.
Now the have what they call Performance Graded (PG) asphalt which is based upon climate zones.
Click to expand...
Interesting, I worked on asphalt in the summers for my dad from 58 to 68 and I knew they had to come up with something different. I imagine they also have to consider the mixture around the indigenous material available as well.
 
We had a 2" cap put over top of our old, very shabby asphalt driveway about 9 years ago. I think next year it will need to be completely replaced, but I'm satisfied it lasted that long.
 
Originally posted by: kranky
We had a 2" cap put over top of our old, very shabby asphalt driveway about 9 years ago. I think next year it will need to be completely replaced, but I'm satisfied it lasted that long.
Click to expand...
In Florida they have road machines that grind add some fresh binders and tar in one operation. They say that this used roadway is much stronger than the original material.

As for durability, dad use to get calls from people begging him to resurface drives and parking lots 30 and 40 years after he originally did their job. Yes it can last a long time.
 
Originally posted by: kranky
We had a 2" cap put over top of our old, very shabby asphalt driveway about 9 years ago. I think next year it will need to be completely replaced, but I'm satisfied it lasted that long.
Click to expand...
NIne years? I'd be happy with that. We should be long gone from the house at that point. Where are you located?
BTW, the dude with the $2150 quote called me back and said he "reviewed his numbers" and realized that he could reduce his price by $200 if I paid cash today. Uh huh. . .:roll:


 
The important lesson to be learned here is that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you have an asphalt driveway TAKE CARE OF IT. Every other year fill the cracks and put down a bucket or two of high quality latex sealer. Takes half a day and costs 50 bucks. Over a 20 year period that'll be 500 dollars invested and you'll still have a driveway that looks new.
 
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