Resolved -- Car problems: Anyone good with Chevy's?

[SuperSix]

The TCC solenoid itself is ~$20.00, the labor will be quite more. Have them change the filter while they're in there. HOPEFULLY, the TCC solenoid is located under the bottom tranny pan, and not the side one.

Soybomb: The sysmptoms it is exhibiting wouldn't make it throw a code anyway.

The TCC solenoid basically "switches" on and off the flow of tranny fluid to the torque converter, locking and unlocking it.

 

[SuperGroove]

My friend had the same problem with his Corsica(so did my 1982 Volvo GLE). New fuel injectors got him up and running.

Then the problem returned. That $20(plus $200 install charges) solenoid did the trick. It's still a POS

Paul

 

[Pacfanweb]

If I understand you correctly, you said after restarting, you put the car in gear and it doesn't engage, right? The rest of my post will assume that. LMK if not the case.

If the car won't move when in drive, you have internal trans problems. This may or may not be related to the shudder and stall when slowing. I've seen TCC solenoid mentioned here. While this COULD cause the shudder when slowing, it COULD NOT cause the trans to neutralize. It may be related by having caused other damage, though.

<<we have similar trouble with the Ford AOD tranny. sometimes after a thorough draining of the fluid (all cooler lines , torque converter , trans pan and a new filter) it solves the problem >>

This fix is for a shudder on ACCEL, not DECEL, and not just on AOD's. In fact, it is not on regular AOD's, but on the AODE. Also happens on other Ford trannies. Usual complaint is for shudder on light accel, particularly uphill, around 45 mph. Not a problem on GM's, and not on FWD Fords.
You really don't need to pull the pan, though. Just use a flushing machine that gets all the fluid out, that will do a better job.

 

[Zach]

I put the car in gear, try to accelerate, and the engine dies. Like if I had a stick at idle, and just took my foot off of the clutch real quick. Dies.. start again, put it in drive, foot off brake to get going, dies. Repeat. Then it'll get going after a bit of rest or repeated tries. Only happened three times so far though, so I could be missing something common to all three. Like I never had a chance to play with revving the engine in nuetral then engaging drive (seemed to work the last time, but could have been a coincadence).

 

[NikPreviousAcct]

<< Anyone good with Chevy's? >>

Yeah. My Ford wipes the damn street with Chevy's ass.

 

[amdskip]

My 81Z will kick ur a$$

 

[conlan]

not trying to be argumentive pacfanweb , but in our neck of the woods we experience this problem on accel AND decel on the AOD , NOT the AOD-E..
not that that makes any difference as i think
zach is on the right track now. the fuel pump (loss of fuel pressure) would not cause a shudder (or vibration) to that degree , nor would it cause the sensation of popping the clutch and stalling the engine at idle, as would a locked-up torque converter. of course this is why i hate trying to diagnose customers (or friends and/or relatives) vehicles over the phone , cuz to do it right ya gotta be there and verify/experience the complaint before you can even begin to properly diagnose a problem.

 

[Pacfanweb]

Ok Zach, I misunderstood your concern. You could have simply an engine performance concern, but a trans concern isn't out of the question yet. A locked up torque converter could cause an immediate stall when put in gear, but most of the time you'd never be able to get it going, even if you did a neutral drop like you mentioned. If you CAN get it going by either two-footing it (gas and brake at the same time), I'd look to engine performance, and that opens up a myriad of possibilities. If you can't even get it going like that, I'd suspect torque converter lock up.
If the problem is that obvious(as in it's happening all the time), a good tech. can figure it out fairly quickly.


<<not trying to be argumentive pacfanweb , but in our neck of the woods we experience this problem on accel AND decel on the AOD >>

That would be a new one to me, and I've been at a Ford dealer for 13 years. Then again, AOD's (non-E) are quite a ways back so I could have forgotten. I will check with my trans men tomorrow and see if they remember that one.

 

[lepper boy]

if you had the car. I would go 1st with a fuel filter.. and also take off the hose from the tank. and have someone crank it over. should be able to either plug it closed with some effort or come close to it... I believe they should have around 45lbs of preasure there.. (atleast in some cars.)

start cheap.... then work your way up..

and if you have the car, it's not that hard to change a fuel filter... hardest part is getting the tank off and on.

 

[andrey]

I had very similar experience with my '91 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. It turned out to be indeed fuel pump with fuel filter (both are located in your tank). The sad thing is that after about 6 months and after I changed those, same thing happened again. I changed fuel pump again (thank you Napa for lifetime warranty on their goods :=)) and after about 7 months this time my fuel pump stopped working again. I'm pretty sure something was causing my fuel pump to burn out after that time, however I didn't have time to figure what it was and I needed a car to drive, not to fix it all the time. I successfully traded it in for 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo Z34 and I have been pretty happy with it so far

 

[SuperSix]

Ack..

VERY dangerous suggestion, Lepper boy, nothing like 40PSI of gas spraying everyhwere. DO NOT DO WHAT HE SUGGESTED!!
Go to the local parts store, and rent/borrow a fuel pressure guage. Most will lend one for free w/deposit.

As for the fuel filter being in the tank, it's not. The &quot;filter&quot; you speak of is called the fuel sock. Most GM's have the fuel filter located either along the driver's side frame rail (RWD) or on the lower part of the firewall. Make sure to relieve the fuel line pressure before removing the old fuel filter, either by starting the car, and unplugging the fuel pump harness, or relieving the pressure at the fuel rail with the Schrader valve. (Looks like a standard tire inflation valve).

Andrey may have had a blocked fuel filter, and was replacing the wrong piece, causing stress to the fuel pump, or he may have had rust flakes/debris in the tank causing the pump's early demise.

OR if you're not comfortable with the above procedures, take it to an expert!

 

[Emulex]

sad thing is a clogged fuel filter , usually means the fuel pump is about to go as well.

You like to drive on empty alot??

 

[stanger]

well i would go to the auto parts store and invest in a cheap computer code scanner ( $24 ) and get a reading of the trouble codes , it should show up any electrical problems like fuel pumps, relays , sensors , etc...

stanger

 

[Zach]

It was the TCC. $170 for labor, $40 for the part, a $10 gasket, and some tranny fluid. 2 quarts.

Hopefully it's fixed. We'll see!

 

[Thegonagle]

Cool, Zach, I hope so too.