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replacing struts

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Gibson486

Lifer
My mazda3 needs to get struts replaced. How do I know if my springs needs to replaced along with the strut? I am bringing it to a mechanic. I bought the struts (all 4) with the mounts. I wanted the mechanics opinion. He said It does not look like it, but you cannot be to sure until you take the spring off. At that point he said if I wanted to do springs also (without being charged even more labor), I need to have the springs at the time, or he will have to charge me another 150 bucks since I would have to bring in the car again and have him take the wheels off again. So, is their a visual way to check it is not taken part? Do you normally replace the spring. Should I just buy the parts from Autozone and return if they are not needed?

I'd do it myself, but cold weather plus nuts and bolts untouched and exposed to the New England weather for 5 years.....I'd rather have that pain go to a mechanic.
 
How many miles are on the car and what kind of roads have you been riding on? Normally if you are replacing struts some people also choose to do the springs but it's not always necessary.

If the cost of buying the springs is not so much then I would order it and bring them with you. If he says you don't need them then just return them to AutoZone.

Of course if your mechanic is honest you should be fine but yea I know, an honest mechanic lol.
 
Springs last a long time for most cars. The springs in my 73 Chevy are factory and still ok.

The only vehicle I had bad springs in was my current Ranger. The last owner put to much weight on them and they got soft. Still ok to drive but sagged.

So unless you beat the snot out of your car and one part of the body is lower than the rest you should be fine.
 
I have about 105k. I think there is a possibility that I may have been riding on bad struts for about 10K, so that is why I am kind of paranoid. I do not beat the crap oput of my car, but I have been on some pretty bumpy roads.
 
there is the normal BOUNCE test you can do. I think it should only bounce 1.5 times before it settles. Its not science here but just a rule of thumb. Youtube should have something on this.

I would just replace the struts, here is the thing now tho. You have OE struts and now you mentioned autozone, so i assume you went with generic replaces like monroe or GR2. Some of those pending on application have been know to ride rough or more floaty VS OEM. Its not that something is wrong its just how they were valved/designed.

I would hop on a mazda3 forum and see what the general review on the struts your putting in and the typical life. Some SUV struts are due at 60k and some are 100+, same with cars. Most people just ride OEM blown or not they dont know the diff. Only time people replace is when they modify a car like lowering or when get into a accident.

You see all these old mk7 lincolns with the airbags and the rear end sagging on the ground. I see a lot of cars look like they have 2000lb in the rear but no one is in it.

100k is generally a starting point so start considering it.
 
You might have him measure the spring to see if they're sagging, but in my opinion 100k is a bit early for springs unless they're known for breaking.
 
It's hard to damage springs and springs tend to last a very long time. In conclusion, you don't need to change your springs unless you are changing the ride height or default tension.

But struts and shocks can go anytime. Typically last in the 50k-100k mile range.
 
I would just go ahead and re-use the springs honestly. I did the struts on my 96 Saturn back in 2011 and the springs were fine (original) Car rode great after KYB GR2 install.
 
I'd do it myself, but cold weather plus nuts and bolts untouched and exposed to the New England weather for 5 years.....I'd rather have that pain go to a mechanic.

I did all 4 corners on my MR2 a few years ago, and I don't blame you in the least. Suspension work SUCKS.

Unless the car has been absolutely ABUSED by overloading, or has a poor design to begin with, the springs should be fine.
 
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