Replacing Motherboard

[boozie]

I bought a motherboard to replace my current one that was having issues (leaked capcitors). I wanted to give myself the option of (easily) keeping the current OS installed so I matched my old board EVGA 680i.

What are things I should keep in mind when replacing the board? I've never installed a CPU/heatsink but I want to do it. I just plan to google instructions on that. Any extra advice for a novice along the lines of what NOT to do.

Should I have any concerns of a different board revision (A1 vs A2)? Do I want to have the latest mobo driver handy? Should I install it before I install the new board?

My hope is to swap out boards like nothing ever happened. Thanks for any advice.

 

[Lanyap]

Is it the exact same model and version?

If this is your only PC then you probably want to download the drivers and have them ready if the new motherboard is a different model/version. Even if it's the same, there are probably updated drivers anyway.

I would suggest that when you start, you take the parts out of the old motherboard and install them on the new motherboard while it is out of the case. It's easier to install the CPU, heatsink and RAM outside of the case. You will need to clean the old thermal paste off of the CPU and heatsink and apply a new coating before installing on the new motherboard. I use acetone (finger nail polish remover) instead of alchohol to remove thermal paste.

Run a memory test when you first boot up and before you use Windows to make sure it's stable after the replacement.

 

[boozie]

I am going from an EVGA 680i to an EVGA 680i so I assume that means same model, potentially different revision. Drivers appear to be the same for either revision so I don't see it being too much of an issue.

For running a memory test, I'm assuming that entails downloading some free software and then putting it on a DVD or flash disk? Do I have to boot to bios or something and then run the software?

 

[wuliheron]

This is one of my favorite guides to assembling a pc:

http://www.pcityourself.com/

 

[C1]

Yes, by all means, do the MB assembly outside of the case. Try to avoid procedural mistakes which one commonly encounters on these forums such as applying too much heat sink compound. Also dont skimp on the quality. Buy something good such as arctic silver. I would also apply a thin coat of deoxit to old RAM contacts before insertion (wipe it on with a lint-less applicator such as a VCR head cleaner shammy). Also be careful to mount the board correctly. Ensure proper number and type mounting holes are used and do not over tighten. Even before mounting, it wouldnt be a bad idea to check the board to verify that there is video and ability to enter the BIOS. Use of something like WINME start up floppy or boot CD is perfect at such a point to verify that you are able to establish a running computer before further assembling.

I wouldnt assume anything when trying to boot into the OS for the first time with the new board. Even if it appears to be flawless or without incident, it is prudent to perform inspection for OS settings as well as do stress, performance and overnight run testing to verify reliability/stability.

Finally, it is a new MB. VERIFY THAT ALL PORTS WORK. THESE INCLUDE ANY SOUND RELATED, USB, SATA, PS2, etc. Even ones you dont plan to use as in the future you may decide to have to use the available capabilities as this is what you paid for. Dont let a year go by and then find out that a particular SATA port or a microphone input for some reason doesnt work or work correctly (board defect?).

 

[KGB]

How long will it be before your 'new' MB caps start leaking/bulging?

Just sayin'...

 

[boozie]

Sorry but the suggestion you made previously of replacing the bad caps puts me in the same scenario with a higher chance of repeat failure (since we know THAT board produced bad caps, but we don’t know all 680i’s have capacitor issues). I don’t own anything to solder with let alone know anything about soldering computer electronics.

For $50 and 1/4 the headache it seemed much more ideal. Time is money and there is no way the work behind replacing the caps would come close to time spent buying/installing a new board. It had potential to be a cool learning experience, but I chickened out once I weighed my options.

If this board lasts me half as long as the original I will be sitting pretty.

 

[BoomerD]

Boozie, it's still a good idea to build things outside the case to make sure the board is good...then, if you get to the BIOS screen (and/or to Windows) go ahead and put it in the case. IMO, it's a PITA to put the board in the case properly, connect everything properly...and have it not work right. For me, there's not enough room in the case to futz around with my big hands. I'd rather test the build before I install the board into the case. It takes a bit more time, but for me, it's easier.

 

[boozie]

So would building it all (out of the case) on something like a wood/glass coffee table work okay?

Also, I seem to have above average static issues. Do I need to ground myself multiple times through-out doing this? (I don't have one of those wrist things nor do I plan to buy one)

Thanks for all the feedback.

 

[KGB]

Sorry but the suggestion you made previously of replacing the bad caps puts me in the same scenario with a higher chance of repeat failure (since we know THAT board produced bad caps, but we don’t know all 680i’s have capacitor issues). I don’t own anything to solder with let alone know anything about soldering computer electronics.

For $50 and 1/4 the headache it seemed much more ideal. Time is money and there is no way the work behind replacing the caps would come close to time spent buying/installing a new board. It had potential to be a cool learning experience, but I chickened out once I weighed my options.

If this board lasts me half as long as the original I will be sitting pretty.

Look, ... all I'm saying is that those caps on your old board failed prematurely and the ones on this 'new' board will also fail prematurely.

Is this 'new' board actually new? As in: never been used?

 

[BoomerD]

I prefer a wooden table, or cardboard, (cardboard on a wooden table protects the table) for this. Yes, glass would work too...but still use cardboard to protect the glass.

Static...I haven't used any kind of static strap in almost 20 years. Just don't go shuffling around the room in your socks then touch components...

As long as you remember to touch the case BEFORE you touch any component, you SHOULD be fine.
If you're just paranoid about the static issue, take a long piece of copper wire, strip about 1 foot off of one end, lightly wrap it around your wrist, and connect the other end to a metal part of the case...IMO, it's a waste of time and wire, but it's the same as buying a fancy grounding strap...and cheaper.

KGBMAN is right...if the bad caps affected your old board, odds are, they'll affect your replacement. If the board is used...they may already be bad...or on their way.

 

[KGB]

I prefer a wooden table, or cardboard, (cardboard on a wooden table protects the table) for this. Yes, glass would work too...but still use cardboard to protect the glass.

Static...I haven't used any kind of static strap in almost 20 years. Just don't go shuffling around the room in your socks then touch components...

As long as you remember to touch the case BEFORE you touch any component, you SHOULD be fine.
If you're just paranoid about the static issue, take a long piece of copper wire, strip about 1 foot off of one end, lightly wrap it around your wrist, and connect the other end to a metal part of the case...IMO, it's a waste of time and wire, but it's the same as buying a fancy grounding strap...and cheaper.

KGBMAN is right...if the bad caps affected your old board, odds are, they'll affect your replacement. If the board is used...they may already be bad...or on their way.

Look, I don't mean to be a 'downer' here... I'm just trying to have the OP look at this with his/her eyes wide open.

As Boomer intimated, if this 'new' board is actually used then the caps may already be on their last legs.

 

[infoiltrator]

You may want to visit badcaps website.
The enemies of caps are quality, brand should be Japanese are Taiwanese, Chinese brands are notorious.
The other enemies are heat, age and bad (as in out of specification) power.
Coming to this late, hope I'm not confused.

 

[BoomerD]

If you don't already have it...here's the latest BIOS for your board.
(pay attention to the correct board/revision)
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=204

Also found here:
http://www.evga.com/support/drivers/

 

[boozie]

Look, ... all I'm saying is that those caps on your old board failed prematurely and the ones on this 'new' board will also fail prematurely.

Is this 'new' board actually new? As in: never been used?

I guess I don't follow how you can make that statement. One occurrence does not indicate a pattern let alone a certainty. Maybe there is a well known issue with this board that isn't known to me.

Board is used, but what's done is done. I was advised on this forum to replace the board or replace the caps. I chose the board. Without any sort of reputation system I can't know whose word is better than anothers.

I don't need more than a year out of the board, and if it fails early well I'm out $50.

 

[mlc]

boozie...

the point being made is that since you ordered an identical board, then there is a chance that the same batch of capacitors were used on the one you just ordered.. However, since your newer one is a newer revision, there is also a fair chance that a different batch were used, or a completely different spec were used..... so I wouldn't worry about it at this stage... The revision two supposedly was designed to work better with the quad core processors, and there were some resistors changed in support of that.. so the caps may not even be an issue.

Regarding the swap... do as boomer suggested.. using cardboard..and try to mount/install whatever you can outside the case. You can just use the motherboard box and assemble it on top of the case, which allows you to connect to the psu and try to post to bios before you mount it in the case to ensure it works...

Other key thoughts.. as suggested by others....
1) just keep touching the case a few time to discharge the static, before touching any of the components.. and stop wiggling those feet!
2) clean off the cpu paste.. you can use alcohol for this as well.. and spread the thermal paste real thin... using a drop or two. .and then a credit card to spread it like a layer of paint
3) at least mount the cpu and cpu fan header, memory sticks, and case switch connectors (those are the hardest.. in terms of matching them up and reading them) to the board before you try mounting the board back into the case...
4) it may be easier to pull out the psu before you mount the board back in.. to give you more handling room...
5) chipset drivers shouldn't be an issue if both revisions use the same ones.. but no guarantees with windows...

Good luck...