Originally posted by: TechnoKid
For sure get the manual.
Get a torque wrench too, one that does somewhere around 15 to 120ft-lbs.
Often the price that a shop charges to turn rotors on a lathe that you bring in yourself are close to the price of new rotors. While turned rotors may be within minimum discard thickness, everytime they are turned, the less material there is to act as a heatsink and you're chances of getting a warped rotor increase.
If you want relatively noise free brakes, use the oem pads, or oem suppliers' pads. But there are good aftermarket choices out there for pads.
As far as rotors are concerned, I prefer Brembo blank rotors, but the cheapies from autozone, napa, pepboys will do fine for daily driving.
And to HighPsi50, you cannot always just slap on pads. Rotors also wear as the pads wear; if the rotor is at discard thickness, they cannot be turned, and are too thin to be in continued use. No certified brake adjusting station would turn rotors beyond minimum, it is a liability and stupid thing to do. The rotor thickness should be checked with a micrometer every once in a while or at least every time you chage the pads. I personally just put new rotors on when the pads wear and need replacement, especially if the rotors are inexpensive enough.
And to the OP. It is somewhat ignorant to say that mechanics would rip you off when doing a brake job on your car. Yes you may be paying a high price with marked up parts and labor, but they'd be most likely doing it right. There are good mechanics and bad mechanics. Many dealership technicians have to go through extensive class and testing to work in shops. GM's ASEP program is a good example of this. Labor is what kills ya, however, and the marked up price on all parts.
