replacing brake pads and rotors directions

[DaRock42]

hey all,

I'm a newbie to car mechanics and was wondering if anyone out there can direct me to a link or tell me step by step on how to replace the car rotors and brake pads or maybe even a book out there that I can buy (besides the car's mechanic book)? I have a 99 Nissan Altima and it's beginning to make those sqeaky noises :frown:...so rather than to take it to the Mechanic and get ripped off, I wanna do it myself. Thanks :beer:

 

[Heisenberg]

A factory service manual is the best option, but you can buy a Chilton's at any auto parts store.

 

[DaRock42]

Originally posted by: Heisenberg
A factory service manual is the best option, but you can buy a Chilton's at any auto parts store.

Chilton's??? is that the name of a Repair manual? I've only heard of Haynes.

 

[Kelemvor]

Chiltons and Haynes are two of the good ones.

Brakes are about the somplest thing to change on a car.

A basic summary is take off the tire, take off the caliper, take off the rotors, then put them all back on with new parts.

Be prepared with a big hammer if the rotors stick as so many do.

 

[Actaeon]

Originally posted by: DaRock42

Originally posted by: Heisenberg
A factory service manual is the best option, but you can buy a Chilton's at any auto parts store.

Chilton's??? is that the name of a Repair manual? I've only heard of Haynes.

Yes, its a repair manual.

I suggest finding an Nissan/Altima forum, and doing a search/creating a thread. They can provide much more info on your specific model than any of us here.

 

[ScoobMaster]

DIY: Replacing Disc Brake Pads
Another guide page (with PICS)
This one appears to be NISSAN specific

 

[tfinch2]

If you plan to keep the car for a long period of time it's a good idea to invest in a factory service manual.

 

[HighPsi50]

You shouldn't need to replace the rotors unless you just want to, or if the pads have gotten so low that they have eaten into the rotors. Even if they have eaten into the rotors, you can have them machined out true as long as it isn't too bad. Just swaping out the pads goes very fast. Just be careful when you re-compress the pistons, some push straight in and some have to be turned back in. You definately need at least the chilton/haynes manual.

 

[arcenite]

Originally posted by: HighPsi50
You shouldn't need to replace the rotors unless you just want to, or if the pads have gotten so low that they have eaten into the rotors. Even if they have eaten into the rotors, you can have them machined out true as long as it isn't too bad. Just swaping out the pads goes very fast. Just be careful when you re-compress the pistons, some push straight in and some have to be turned back in. You definately need at least the chilton/haynes manual.

Be very careful when playing with those pistons... If they're on the verge of taking a crap, and you play with them, you may need a caliper

 

[DaRock42]

thanks to all who contributed to help. you all kick major ARSE!!

 

[LS20]

you dont need a manual.. just google it on ebay and you should get enough instructions.. its a very easy and straight forward task once you actually take a look at whats involved... all you need is a C-clamp to push the piston back in ...

 

[TechnoKid]

For sure get the manual.

Get a torque wrench too, one that does somewhere around 15 to 120ft-lbs.

Often the price that a shop charges to turn rotors on a lathe that you bring in yourself are close to the price of new rotors. While turned rotors may be within minimum discard thickness, everytime they are turned, the less material there is to act as a heatsink and you're chances of getting a warped rotor increase.

If you want relatively noise free brakes, use the oem pads, or oem suppliers' pads. But there are good aftermarket choices out there for pads.

As far as rotors are concerned, I prefer Brembo blank rotors, but the cheapies from autozone, napa, pepboys will do fine for daily driving.

And to HighPsi50, you cannot always just slap on pads. Rotors also wear as the pads wear; if the rotor is at discard thickness, they cannot be turned, and are too thin to be in continued use. No certified brake adjusting station would turn rotors beyond minimum, it is a liability and stupid thing to do. The rotor thickness should be checked with a micrometer every once in a while or at least every time you chage the pads. I personally just put new rotors on when the pads wear and need replacement, especially if the rotors are inexpensive enough.

And to the OP. It is somewhat ignorant to say that mechanics would rip you off when doing a brake job on your car. Yes you may be paying a high price with marked up parts and labor, but they'd be most likely doing it right. There are good mechanics and bad mechanics. Many dealership technicians have to go through extensive class and testing to work in shops. GM's ASEP program is a good example of this. Labor is what kills ya, however, and the marked up price on all parts.

 

[DaRock42]

Originally posted by: TechnoKid
For sure get the manual.

Get a torque wrench too, one that does somewhere around 15 to 120ft-lbs.

Often the price that a shop charges to turn rotors on a lathe that you bring in yourself are close to the price of new rotors. While turned rotors may be within minimum discard thickness, everytime they are turned, the less material there is to act as a heatsink and you're chances of getting a warped rotor increase.

If you want relatively noise free brakes, use the oem pads, or oem suppliers' pads. But there are good aftermarket choices out there for pads.

As far as rotors are concerned, I prefer Brembo blank rotors, but the cheapies from autozone, napa, pepboys will do fine for daily driving.

And to HighPsi50, you cannot always just slap on pads. Rotors also wear as the pads wear; if the rotor is at discard thickness, they cannot be turned, and are too thin to be in continued use. No certified brake adjusting station would turn rotors beyond minimum, it is a liability and stupid thing to do. The rotor thickness should be checked with a micrometer every once in a while or at least every time you chage the pads. I personally just put new rotors on when the pads wear and need replacement, especially if the rotors are inexpensive enough.

And to the OP. It is somewhat ignorant to say that mechanics would rip you off when doing a brake job on your car. Yes you may be paying a high price with marked up parts and labor, but they'd be most likely doing it right. There are good mechanics and bad mechanics. Many dealership technicians have to go through extensive class and testing to work in shops. GM's ASEP program is a good example of this. Labor is what kills ya, however, and the marked up price on all parts.

err, i have one of those ratchet wrenches from AutoZone tool kits, would that be enough to be an equivalent to your torque wrench??

would it be a ripoff to go to the Nissan Dealer to get "Nissan Parts" or should I just do research and buy name brand or highly recommended parts from auto stores?

To LS20, how would googling ebay give me info on how to change brakes n rotors?

Does AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. sell C-clamps? or would I have to go to a Home Depot. And how much would they be?

 

[acemcmac]

gey your haynes book.... 15$

 

[LS20]

Originally posted by: DaRock42


To LS20, how would googling ebay give me info on how to change brakes n rotors?

my bad... 2:11am = drunken thoughts

just google brake rotor instructions ... i'd never done a brake job before... found a webpage for a chevy silverado z71 with some pictures... and ended up doing rotors & pads on my sentra, my sisters corolla, and my uncle's maxima all in the same day ... the job itself is straight forward