Replaced CPU cooler on Asus p8Z77 - V pro board, system is going haywire since

josh8266

Junior Member
Sep 15, 2013
5
0
0
I have a mystifying issue here.
Here are my computer specs:
Asus P8Z77 - V Pro
Intel i7 3770k (OC to 4.2ghz, temperatures never rose above ~62C)
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670
ADATA S510 series 120G SSD
16G (4x4) Corsair Vengeance (CML16GX3M4X1600C8) RAM
Diablotek 775W PSU

All purchased just over a year ago. All from Newegg.

I apologize for the length, I will quickly summarize my problem in this first section, feel free to go into the written out post below for more information. Thanks!

TLDR:
-Been using computer with above specs for over a year with no problems.
-Replaced EVGA Superclock cooler with Cooler Master Seidon 120M liquid cooler. Did not touch or remove any other components during the CPU cooler swap.
- Have built a decent number of computers over the years, have done partial maintenance on many as well.
-Try to start up computer, DRAM_LED light comes on, MEM OK test fails, computer will not POST.
-Technically corsair is not on QVL Bought 2GB Kingston memory that is on QVL tried it in DIMM A2 (manual preferred slot), still fails DRAM_LED and MEM OK.
-By trying every configuration have found that any stick of RAM will "work" (DRAM_LED won't come on and will sometimes POST) if only one stick is placed in DIMM_B1.
-Sometimes will POST other times VGA_LED light will come on. If bypass VGA_LED, BOOT_DEVICE_LED will come on but will still POST and get 1 short (everything OK) motherboard beep.
-In BIOS everything is recognized and "working."
-Booting to SSD have option to "Start up repair" and "Start windows normally"
Start normally: Windows logo flashes momentarily screen goes black, computer reboots, refuses to POST until hard reset (often the VGA_LED will throw after the restart)
Start up repair: loads windows files and then BSODs every time, varying errors (0x0000007f, 0x000000c4, among many others).
-Cannot get farther than this, I am thinking it is the PSU or MB.
-This coming Wednesday will have another PSU and PSU checker.
-Anyone have any ideas or insight on how to further troubleshoot or some guidance?

Other notes:
-Have rebuilt computer from ground up multiple times to no luck, have re-seated CPU, no bent pins, have cleared CMOS, removed round battery in board various times at various stages.
-Have checked all hard drives, memory sticks, and GPU in other computer, all work 100% fine.
-Have tried putting back on old EVGA cooler, have tried putting on stock CPU cooler, problem remains the same.
-Have tried to load windows CD and windows files on USB stick, freezes at random points while trying to load setup files.
-Do not have another motherboard to test CPU, do not have another CPU to test in Asus p8z77motherboard, afraid to test PSU on other computer.

Longer explanation, My Problem:
I recently ordered and built the parts for an HTPC and since Newegg had the Cooler Master Seidon 120M liquid cooler on sale I bought one foolishly thinking I could maybe jig the radiator to hang or bolt to the wall of my HTPC, when it got here I laughed at myself thoroughly and then decided I could install the new liquid cooler into my main gaming PC. I sat down after work yesterday to replace my EVGA Superclock CPU cooler with the Cooler Master Seidon 120M.

I switched the cooler (without unplugging or moving or touching or replacing any other component)with no hiccups, plugged everything back in and when I tried to start up my computer the DRAM_LED (this board has diagnostic lights that supposedly tell you what component is malfunctioning in the system) came on and stayed on. The booting process went no further (no POST) I pushed and held the MEM OK button that is supposed to bypass non- QVL ram by cycling safe operating parameters, it did its thing and then did a final reboot and came back on with the DRAM light lit again, and again going no further. The corsair vengeance RAM I am using is not technically on the QVL but it was working before with no issues. I thought maybe switching the coolers scared the BIOS so I went out to buy a stick of QVL RAM to get it to boot in so I could soothe the system and then re install my 16GB.
(Before doing this I tried clearing the CMOS, removed the round little battery, etc. I also have seated and re seated the RAM 50 times, I have completely built over 10 complete computers with no problems and installed RAM in various computers over 50 times, I know when a stick is in and I know how much pressure to use, also I never touched the RAM when installing the CPU cooler so nothing should have changed with the RAM).

I bought a 2GB 1333 mhz stick of (KVR1333D3S8N9) which is on the QVL and installed it in DIMM slot A2 which is the preferred slot for 1 stick of memory. I turned it on and the same DRAM_LED came on. I tried cycling the MEM OK feature again to no luck. I then went and tested all of my memory in my HTPC and all of it is working 100% OK (the Corsair vengeance and the Kingston stick all work fine in my HTPC build).

What I then found is that if I run one stick (any stick, doesn't matter which) in and only in the DIMM B1 slot I can bypass the DRAM_LED. From here it gets worse. I can then SOME TIMES successfully POST. Every other time I start up the machine, it will refuse to POST and the VGA_LED will light up saying that my graphics card is improperly seated or malfunctioning or whatever. I can then wiggle the graphics card (or do nothing but restart it) and it sometimes POSTS sometimes throws the VGA_LED.

IF the machine POSTs and gets past the DRAM_LED and VGA_LED the mobo speaker will beep once signifying things are fine and then the BOOT_DEVICE_LED will come on. I can get into the BIOS and if I try to boot from my SSD I get the option to "Start Windows Normally" or "Launch Start up repair"

Choosing to launch start-up repair BSODs every time with varying errors: (stop 0x0000000, stop 0x0000007f, stop 0x000000c4, among others), choosing to launch windows causes the machine to flicker the Windows Logo momentarily and then the screen goes black and the machine reboots, often refusing to then POST.

I have re-built the machine multiple times from the bottom up. I have removed and re-seated the cpu/checked for bent pins multiple times - no problems, the cooler is not leaking and when I start the computer all of the fans and lights start up perfectly normally.

I have verified that the graphics card, RAM, and my hard drives are working by testing them in another system. The only things I have not verified independently are the PSU, the Motherboard, and the CPU.

Other information: If I start the machine with no RAM installed the motherboard will beep notifying me I have no RAM installed.

I have tried loading a windows install disc and get as far as loading the set-up files which simply freezes randomly somewhere during the process. Sometimes the progress bar gets as far as 90% other times as far as 10% and just randomly freezes. I have also tried loading windows files from a USB stick.

I am leaning towards this being a PSU problem, the power-supply I got is definitely not a notable brand and probably the lowest quality item in my build. I know it was stupid to cut corners on the power supply, I am forever shamed. My father has a power supply tester and I will be meeting with him this coming Wednesday but before then I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas or things I could do to troubleshoot further. Is there anyway to rule out the MOBO, CPU, or PSU that anyone can think of with what I have or what I have done?

Thanks and sorry again for the length or if this is in the wrong section.
 

dma0991

Platinum Member
Mar 17, 2011
2,723
1
0
I'm fairly certain that this has much to do with the motherboard than it is with the CPU or PSU. My friend had an Asus P8P67 Pro which exhibited similar issues; random shutdowns and never turning on. Wasn't sure if the SATA bug had anything(he was lazy to swap for a B3) to do but it turned out fine after it totally died and swapped out for an ASRock Extreme4.

I can't be sure what actually happened as you were installing the heatsink but evidently something did happen to the motherboard. Who knows, you could've marred off some PCB traces with a screwdriver or nudged some components out of alignment.
 

josh8266

Junior Member
Sep 15, 2013
5
0
0
I don't think I'd be able to get as "far" as I'm getting if it were the CPU (although I don't know, someone correct me if I'm wrong here) so I'm definitely thinking it is MB or PSU.

I definitely can't claim I did an absolutely PERFECT install and didn't somehow accidentally nudge/mar something.

Is there any point in contacting ASUS to try for a replacement etc. or should I just assume they'll tell me it's my fault and that I'm SOL and just buy a replacement board?
 

denis280

Diamond Member
Jan 16, 2011
3,434
9
81
Can you get windows to open.if yes then get whocrached.the code you are mentioning are.hardware and OS.
 

Torn Mind

Lifer
Nov 25, 2012
12,051
2,765
136
Diabloteks pull half their wattage value AT MOST and are some of the worst PSUs out there.

You also could have zapped something with static electricity if you didn't take precautions (hands on something metal) to protect the components.

You might need to try running the computer out of the case and/or putting the old cooler back on. If the problems continue, then something is very wrong.
 

josh8266

Junior Member
Sep 15, 2013
5
0
0
Thank you for the replies so far.

I have tried putting the old cooler back on, and have even tried using the stock cooler, none of them make a difference.

I've always been careful to touch the metal case before touching anything else, so I doubt it was static discharge but I can't be 100% certain since I know that the components are so sensitive that an imperceptible discharge could mess something up...

Anyone else have any other ideas? Anyone recommend trying my time with Asus replacement? I bought the board about a year ago.
 

bankster55

Golden Member
Mar 24, 2010
1,124
0
0
The POS PSU blew a fuse or power transistor.
Pray it didnt take anything else with it.
Do NOT fix it, and their RMA is non existent, so just buy an XFX Pro 750 or 800
 

josh8266

Junior Member
Sep 15, 2013
5
0
0
I regretted buying the PSU almost immediately, it was like $50 and had 4 stars on Newegg, I knew better but convinced myself over some brews that "everything would be just fine." I've been meaning to replace it ever since but didn't have any problems and just kept telling myself I'd get around to it... stupid I know... My father has a spare unopened 600W power supply he said he'd give me and a "PSU checker he bought at microcenter." I'll have more info then, thank you for the reply and if anyone has anymore insight in the meantime I'd appreciate to hear it.
 

dma0991

Platinum Member
Mar 17, 2011
2,723
1
0
CPU damage is unlikely as they are not that prone to damage. Regarding the issue with the Asus P8P67 Pro mentioned earlier, I initially thought that the CPU had issues, which I then suggested RMA. A new CPU came back and it worked well for a while before exhibiting the same issue.

The PSU definitely needs changing and a bad decision on your behalf for skimping on an equally important part but it could not be the cause of the problem. Test the PSU, if it turns out fine, forget about CPU testing and just send the board for RMA.
 

Redoitall

Member
Feb 11, 2013
98
0
0
i have a mystifying issue here.
here are my computer specs:
asus p8z77 - v pro
intel i7 3770k (oc to 4.2ghz, temperatures never rose above ~62c)
gigabyte geforce gtx 670
adata s510 series 120g ssd
16g (4x4) corsair vengeance (cml16gx3m4x1600c8) ram
diablotek 775w psu

all purchased just over a year ago. All from newegg.

I apologize for the length, i will quickly summarize my problem in this first section, feel free to go into the written out post below for more information. Thanks!

tldr:
-been using computer with above specs for over a year with no problems.
-replaced evga superclock cooler with cooler master seidon 120m liquid cooler. Did not touch or remove any other components during the cpu cooler swap.
- have built a decent number of computers over the years, have done partial maintenance on many as well.
-try to start up computer, dram_led light comes on, mem ok test fails, computer will not post.
-technically corsair is not on qvl bought 2gb kingston memory that is on qvl tried it in dimm a2 (manual preferred slot), still fails dram_led and mem ok.
-by trying every configuration have found that any stick of ram will "work" (dram_led won't come on and will sometimes post) if only one stick is placed in dimm_b1.
-sometimes will post other times vga_led light will come on. If bypass vga_led, boot_device_led will come on but will still post and get 1 short (everything ok) motherboard beep.
-in bios everything is recognized and "working."
-booting to ssd have option to "start up repair" and "start windows normally"
start normally: Windows logo flashes momentarily screen goes black, computer reboots, refuses to post until hard reset (often the vga_led will throw after the restart)
start up repair: Loads windows files and then bsods every time, varying errors (0x0000007f, 0x000000c4, among many others).
-cannot get farther than this, i am thinking it is the psu or mb.
-this coming wednesday will have another psu and psu checker.
-anyone have any ideas or insight on how to further troubleshoot or some guidance?

other notes:
-have rebuilt computer from ground up multiple times to no luck, have re-seated cpu, no bent pins, have cleared cmos, removed round battery in board various times at various stages.
-have checked all hard drives, memory sticks, and gpu in other computer, all work 100% fine.
-have tried putting back on old evga cooler, have tried putting on stock cpu cooler, problem remains the same.
-have tried to load windows cd and windows files on usb stick, freezes at random points while trying to load setup files.
-do not have another motherboard to test cpu, do not have another cpu to test in asus p8z77motherboard, afraid to test psu on other computer.

longer explanation, my problem:
i recently ordered and built the parts for an htpc and since newegg had the cooler master seidon 120m liquid cooler on sale i bought one foolishly thinking i could maybe jig the radiator to hang or bolt to the wall of my htpc, when it got here i laughed at myself thoroughly and then decided i could install the new liquid cooler into my main gaming pc. I sat down after work yesterday to replace my evga superclock cpu cooler with the cooler master seidon 120m.

I switched the cooler (without unplugging or moving or touching or replacing any other component)with no hiccups, plugged everything back in and when i tried to start up my computer the dram_led (this board has diagnostic lights that supposedly tell you what component is malfunctioning in the system) came on and stayed on. The booting process went no further (no post) i pushed and held the mem ok button that is supposed to bypass non- qvl ram by cycling safe operating parameters, it did its thing and then did a final reboot and came back on with the dram light lit again, and again going no further. The corsair vengeance ram i am using is not technically on the qvl but it was working before with no issues. I thought maybe switching the coolers scared the bios so i went out to buy a stick of qvl ram to get it to boot in so i could soothe the system and then re install my 16gb.
(before doing this i tried clearing the cmos, removed the round little battery, etc. I also have seated and re seated the ram 50 times, i have completely built over 10 complete computers with no problems and installed ram in various computers over 50 times, i know when a stick is in and i know how much pressure to use, also i never touched the ram when installing the cpu cooler so nothing should have changed with the ram).

I bought a 2gb 1333 mhz stick of (kvr1333d3s8n9) which is on the qvl and installed it in dimm slot a2 which is the preferred slot for 1 stick of memory. I turned it on and the same dram_led came on. I tried cycling the mem ok feature again to no luck. I then went and tested all of my memory in my htpc and all of it is working 100% ok (the corsair vengeance and the kingston stick all work fine in my htpc build).

What i then found is that if i run one stick (any stick, doesn't matter which) in and only in the dimm b1 slot i can bypass the dram_led. From here it gets worse. I can then some times successfully post. Every other time i start up the machine, it will refuse to post and the vga_led will light up saying that my graphics card is improperly seated or malfunctioning or whatever. I can then wiggle the graphics card (or do nothing but restart it) and it sometimes posts sometimes throws the vga_led.

If the machine posts and gets past the dram_led and vga_led the mobo speaker will beep once signifying things are fine and then the boot_device_led will come on. I can get into the bios and if i try to boot from my ssd i get the option to "start windows normally" or "launch start up repair"

choosing to launch start-up repair bsods every time with varying errors: (stop 0x0000000, stop 0x0000007f, stop 0x000000c4, among others), choosing to launch windows causes the machine to flicker the windows logo momentarily and then the screen goes black and the machine reboots, often refusing to then post.

I have re-built the machine multiple times from the bottom up. I have removed and re-seated the cpu/checked for bent pins multiple times - no problems, the cooler is not leaking and when i start the computer all of the fans and lights start up perfectly normally.

I have verified that the graphics card, ram, and my hard drives are working by testing them in another system. The only things i have not verified independently are the psu, the motherboard, and the cpu.

Other information: If i start the machine with no ram installed the motherboard will beep notifying me i have no ram installed.

I have tried loading a windows install disc and get as far as loading the set-up files which simply freezes randomly somewhere during the process. Sometimes the progress bar gets as far as 90% other times as far as 10% and just randomly freezes. I have also tried loading windows files from a usb stick.

I am leaning towards this being a psu problem, the power-supply i got is definitely not a notable brand and probably the lowest quality item in my build. I know it was stupid to cut corners on the power supply, i am forever shamed. My father has a power supply tester and i will be meeting with him this coming wednesday but before then i was wondering if anyone had any other ideas or things i could do to troubleshoot further. Is there anyway to rule out the mobo, cpu, or psu that anyone can think of with what i have or what i have done?

Thanks and sorry again for the length or if this is in the wrong section.


try a spare psu that happened to me before and it was the psu. i HAD A CHEAP PSU WITH 3770K AND IT ONLY WOULD BOOT WHEN I WAS OVERCLOCK TO 4.5 AND ABOVE WEIRD BUT NOT ENOUGH CURRENT FLOW FOR LOW STATES
 
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josh8266

Junior Member
Sep 15, 2013
5
0
0
Hah alright, alright, guys I get it, I shit the bed on the PSU, GREAT DISHONOR UPON MY FAMILY.

Anyways, tested the Diablotek with the PSU power tester (it's a little plastic device that puts the PSU under a constant load and then tells you if it performs normally/stable), it cleared the PSU tests, but I went ahead and installed a brand new 600W Thermaltake PSU my father had just to be sure... same exact problem. I also tried updating the BIOS to the latest revision, nothing different.

Ordered a new motherboard a couple days ago, it just got in about an hour ago, hooked everything up (including the water cooler) to the new board... and it started up perfectly fine like nothing ever happened. I'm updating this post on that computer right now.

I'm using the Thermaltake 600W for now (I will probably buy a Corsair, Seasonic, or Rosewill when I get my next paycheck), I still don't know what caused this weird problem but I'm guessing it was one of these three: a) the Diablotek PSU did something weird power wise to the MB b) I somehow screwed up the install (static discharge/errant screwdriver) or c) the motherboard just failed because I'm unlucky...

Either way I'm back in business, thanks for the help and input everyone.
 

sm625

Diamond Member
May 6, 2011
8,172
137
106
You probably flexed the motherboard in such a way that it damaged one of your memory bus traces, or threw off the impedence of a signal line enough to cause it to have critical memory errors. Maybe you broke an inner trace connection to a via, or maybe it was always broken, and flexing the board was just enough to finally make it fail.