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Replace pads when replacing rotors?

A

alphatarget1

Diamond Member
So I replaced my dad's car's brake pads and the rotors looked good, and I didn't replace them. It shakes really bad now under braking and I think the rotors are toast. The brake pads have only about 6k miles on them and I am reluctant to replace them. Do you think I have to replace the pads too?
 
I wouldn't, just change the rotors and see what happens or if the pads will "adapt". I think they should. If not it's a cheap and quick swap compared to the rotors.
 
You should check to see if the pads have been wearing evenly. 6,000 is nothing in terms of miles though.
 
If you change the rotors; you are going to be cheap for a parent over $15-$20 😕
 
Seems strange that the new pads would have boogered up the rotors in 6k miles. Do you suppose the new pads over heated the old rotors and warped them? Do you think they might do the same to the new rotors? Are you pads OEM replacements or did you go with a different compound?
 
Check to see if one of the pads isn't installed right. I don't think rotors that new would warp. Maybe one of your wheels isn't tightened all the way?
 
When you replace pads, you should resurface the rotors at the same time (assuming your rotors are thick enough/this is based on car/model).

If you don't, you usually end up warping the rotors in no time.....

Live and learn.

Assuming your rotors are still within the spec of your car/model you can still get them resurfaced and put the current pads back on. Most shops will charge you 10-20 bucks to resurface (check local auto store)

PS. If you do get new rotors, don't get cheap ones. Extra 20-30 bucks per piece will prevent such issues and will extend the life of your rotor etc.
 
I always replace/resurface my rotors when doing a brake job.
I would rather do that once all together and let the pads/rotors wear properly together.
Opinions vary.
 
Vdubchaos said:
When you replace pads, you should resurface the rotors at the same time (assuming your rotors are thick enough/this is based on car/model).

If you don't, you usually end up warping the rotors in no time.....

Live and learn.

Assuming your rotors are still within the spec of your car/model you can still get them resurfaced and put the current pads back on. Most shops will charge you 10-20 bucks to resurface (check local auto store)

PS. If you do get new rotors, don't get cheap ones. Extra 20-30 bucks per piece will prevent such issues and will extend the life of your rotor etc.
Click to expand...

When I sold my last 2 cars (90MX6, 95 Probe GT), they were sold with about 140K on the odometer and they both went to new owners with the original rotors from the factory.
Never shook, never had issues with brakes.

Current car (02 Camry) has 70K on the original rotors.
No shake...all in spec.


true story
 
pauldun170 said:
When I sold my last 2 cars (90MX6, 95 Probe GT), they were sold with about 140K on the odometer and they both went to new owners with the original rotors from the factory.
Never shook, never had issues with brakes.

Current car (02 Camry) has 70K on the original rotors.
No shake...all in spec.


true story
Click to expand...

It's all about driving style.

Some people are on original brakes 8 years down the line, others have to change them every year and a half.
 
And still others have to change out rotors before pads. I had a G35 that loved to wear out rotors.

OP, replace rotor. Resurfacing has, for the most part, become a thing of the past. Many times you can't get newer car rotors resurfaced and even when you can is cost almost as much as new.

The pads should be fine.
 
fstime said:
It's all about driving style.

Some people are on original brakes 8 years down the line, others have to change them every year and a half.
Click to expand...

Same reason I get about 6MPG better in my wife's car than she does. She's completely baffled that there's an option other than flooring it and braking. :colbert:
 
If there are any grooves or uneven wearing I'd definitely replace them.

Personally, I'd replace them regardless. Anytime you resurface or replace rotors you want to bed the brakes in with new pads as well.
 
Last edited:
So much fail in this thread.

Yes, you should have resurfaced the rotors when installing new pads. The old pads transferred material to the rotor (as they should) and probably not perfectly evenly. Between the un-even nature of the deposits and the fact that you're using different pads with a different compound, it only makes sense to spend the $10-15 per rotor to have them turned/cut/resurfaced whatever you want to call it.

Yes, you can have the rotors resurfaced now and use the same pads. You could replace them instead if you want, but if this is the first time they're being resurfaced they should be fine.

Here's a little light reading for all the "warped rotor" folk:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
Jeeeze ...... in all likelihood the reason why your rotors went out after changing the pads is because you didnt rebuild the calipers. As caliper pistons age dirt accumulates internally behind the piston which, slowly over time, extends from its caliper bore as pads wear. Simply pushing the pistons back in without cleaning the dirt results in piston binding or not allowing the seal ring to retract the piston slightly as per design/specification when hydraulic pressure is relieved (ie, the foot is removed from the brake pedal).

The result is caliper over heating and damage.

After any disk brake job, take the car for say a couple mile drive at highway speed without having to use the brakes. Pull over (dont use the disk brakes and instead use the hand brake if you have to) and feel the disk studs. If they are more than just slightly warm then you have an issue (ie, binding caliper).
 
Last edited:
C1 said:
Jeeeze ...... in all likelihood the reason why your rotors went out after changing the pads is because you didnt rebuild the calipers. As caliper pistons age dirt accumulates internally behind the piston which, slowly over time, extends from its caliper bore as pads wear. Simply pushing the pistons back in without cleaning the dirt results in piston binding or not allowing the seal ring to retract the piston slightly as per design/specification. The result is caliper over heating and fail.

After any disk brake job, take the car for say a couple mile drive at highway speed without having to use the brakes. Pull over (dont use the disk brakes and instead use the hand brake if you have to) and feel the disk studs. If they are more than just slightly warm then you have an issue (ie, binding caliper).
Click to expand...

Rebuild the rotor whenever you change pads.

🙂

Riiiiiiighhht
 
fbrdphreak said:
So much fail in this thread.

Yes, you should have resurfaced the rotors when installing new pads. The old pads transferred material to the rotor (as they should) and probably not perfectly evenly. Between the un-even nature of the deposits and the fact that you're using different pads with a different compound, it only makes sense to spend the $10-15 per rotor to have them turned/cut/resurfaced whatever you want to call it.

Yes, you can have the rotors resurfaced now and use the same pads. You could replace them instead if you want, but if this is the first time they're being resurfaced they should be fine.

Here's a little light reading for all the "warped rotor" folk:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
Click to expand...

Myth #6 is one of the dumbest things I have read.
 
C1 said:
Premature or uneven brake pad (and rotor) wear is often a sign of sticking caliper pistons. If you experience this, or if the rubber seals around the pistons are torn or if there is any seepage of brake fluid around the pistons, its time for a rebuild.

http://www.schattenbaum.org/TechArticles/RebuildingBrakeCalipers.aspx

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/caliper/RebuildBrakeCaliper.htm
Click to expand...

I can't remember ever having a vehicle I had to rebuilt a caliper on. If you bleed the brakes according to the manufacturers scheduled maintenance your calipers should last a long long time.
 
Torque the wheel nuts correctly next time. 🙂

That said, I wouldn't replace the pads on that car since it's only 6,000 miles. Seems like a waste. Depending on the brake pads, it might not be that cheap either. (Mine were about $45-50 for both front wheels)
 
JulesMaximus said:
I can't remember ever having a vehicle I had to rebuilt a caliper on. If you bleed the brakes according to the manufacturers scheduled maintenance your calipers should last a long long time.
Click to expand...

what?

the rubber seal on the piston could fail easily at some point whether the brakes were bled or not

if you actually take the brakes apart annually to lube them/bleed them ETC all braking components will last longer though.

in IL if you dont lube the guide pins every 2 years you are going to destroy a pad, whether you bleed them or not
 
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