Repair advice

[Electric Amish]

I've had the 1994 GT Probe since it was new. ~160k miles

#3 cylinder is not combusting

I run through all my knowledge (plugs, wires, disty). Everything looks ok.

Take it to a Tunex shop and they say fuel injector. For $550 they replace #3 and clean the rest. Still doesn't work.

They have run many compression tests and all seems well there.

I hear today that they believe it needs some "head work". I haven't spoken with the mechanic directly, so I don't know what he's envisioning. They are saying ~$2000.

Unfortunately I just bought a new Toyota Tacoma to replace my wife's truck, so buying another car is going to be rough.

Any advice from the wise garage guys??

Thanks!

 

[OdiN]

You could buy a cheap ised import for ~$2000 and it will probably be better than that Probe.

You don't really need another brand new car do you? I'd say buy some CARFAX reports and hit up Craigslist.

 

[herm0016]

sounds like you need to see another mechanic, they should have checked the injector. they should also tell you more than "it needs head work"

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: OdiN
You could buy a cheap ised import for ~$2000 and it will probably be better than that Probe.

You don't really need another brand new car do you? I'd say buy some CARFAX reports and hit up Craigslist.

Well now, this will be embarrassing for you...

The Probe is an import. It's a Mazda MX-6 with different bodywork. Even the 2.5 litre V6 in the 1994 Probe GT was a fully-Mazda piece.

As for the OP's question, it's either fuel, air, spark, or compression. The mechanic definitely should have been more specific than just saying "some head work".

For $2,000 you ought to be able to find a rebuilt engine for the mechanic to swap in if it comes to that.

ZV

 

[BUTCH1]

Did they do a leakdown compression test as well?? Might want to find a different mechanic,
$550 for a completely missed diagnosis on your dime should tell it's time for another
opinion...

 

[OdiN]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: OdiN
You could buy a cheap ised import for ~$2000 and it will probably be better than that Probe.

You don't really need another brand new car do you? I'd say buy some CARFAX reports and hit up Craigslist.

Well now, this will be embarrassing for you...

The Probe is an import. It's a Mazda MX-6 with different bodywork. Even the 2.5 litre V6 in the 1994 Probe GT was a fully-Mazda piece.

As for the OP's question, it's either fuel, air, spark, or compression. The mechanic definitely should have been more specific than just saying "some head work".

For $2,000 you ought to be able to find a rebuilt engine for the mechanic to swap in if it comes to that.

ZV

How is that embarrassing?

I didn't know the Probe was mostly Mazda. It says Ford on it, that's good enough for me to stay away. I don't know as much about Ford models.

I still say it would be a good idea to at least look into what other cars might be available, rather than dumping money into an engine like that.

If you could get a decent rebuild and put it in yourself - that might be the route to go. But if you've gotta pay someone else to do it I think it would be better to look into something else.

I wouldn't be able to replace a whole engine by myself - not that good with a wrench yet. But then I have friends who could and I could just buy them a case of beer and they'd be content with that and my help.

 

[Electric Amish]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: OdiN
You could buy a cheap ised import for ~$2000 and it will probably be better than that Probe.

You don't really need another brand new car do you? I'd say buy some CARFAX reports and hit up Craigslist.

Well now, this will be embarrassing for you...

The Probe is an import. It's a Mazda MX-6 with different bodywork. Even the 2.5 litre V6 in the 1994 Probe GT was a fully-Mazda piece.

As for the OP's question, it's either fuel, air, spark, or compression. The mechanic definitely should have been more specific than just saying "some head work".

For $2,000 you ought to be able to find a rebuilt engine for the mechanic to swap in if it comes to that.

ZV

I stopped by and spoke with the mechanic yesterday to get more info than the "Head work" answer.

He has done 3 different compression tests. One showed a small anomaly, but all were otherwise fine. He says he is sure it is getting spark and fuel. He has not done a leak-down test because he says it would only tell him that the problem is in the head, not what the problem is.

Unfortunately I don't have a regular mechanic as everything I have ever needed either I or my father-in-law could handle, so I just took it down to a local shop.

 

[railer]

Originally posted by: OdiN


How is that embarrassing?

I didn't know the Probe was mostly Mazda. It says Ford on it, that's good enough for me to stay away. I don't know as much about Ford models.

He probably meant embarrassing, because you spouted off with your "all Ford's are junk, buy an import" biased drivel, while obviously knowing absolutely nothing about what you were talking about. I'd be embarrassed about that....

But anyway....I have the exact same car!!!!

Those v6's are a pita to work on, luckily your problem is in the front bank so you can actually reach it. Spending 2k to fix a 14 year old probe is lunacy. Heck, I'll sell ya my whole car for $1500. 😀

Go to probetalk.com, and see what they say. There are still tons of people there who own, modify, and maintain 1st and 2nd gen probes that will be able to help you out.

 

[Electric Amish]

Originally posted by: railer

Originally posted by: OdiN


How is that embarrassing?

I didn't know the Probe was mostly Mazda. It says Ford on it, that's good enough for me to stay away. I don't know as much about Ford models.

He probably meant embarrassing, because you spouted off with your "all Ford's are junk, buy an import" biased drivel, while obviously knowing absolutely nothing about what you were talking about. I'd be embarrassed about that....

But anyway....I have the exact same car!!!!

Those v6's are a pita to work on, luckily your problem is in the front bank so you can actually reach it. Spending 2k to fix a 14 year old probe is lunacy. Heck, I'll sell ya my whole car for $1500. 😀

Go to probetalk.com, and see what they say. There are still tons of people there who own, modify, and maintain 1st and 2nd gen probes that will be able to help you out.

Thanks Railer. I am a member over there are well. They have helped me a lot in the past as well.

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: Electric Amish
He has done 3 different compression tests. One showed a small anomaly, but all were otherwise fine. He says he is sure it is getting spark and fuel. He has not done a leak-down test because he says it would only tell him that the problem is in the head, not what the problem is.

Unfortunately I don't have a regular mechanic as everything I have ever needed either I or my father-in-law could handle, so I just took it down to a local shop.

If the cylinder has compression, fuel/air, and spark, it will fire. Period. If it's not firing, one of those three is missing.

The mechanic is clearly missing something because if the compression is good, and it has fuel and spark, then it would be firing. Since it's not firing, then one of those things that he's "sure of" isn't true. The idea of 3 different compression tests is odd... There's only one way I know of to do a compression test, so I'm unclear on why he needed to do three. I would strongly advise finding a different mechanic. This one is throwing red flags for me. Even what he's said is still not an answer to what he means by "some head work".

ZV

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: railer

Originally posted by: OdiN
How is that embarrassing?

I didn't know the Probe was mostly Mazda. It says Ford on it, that's good enough for me to stay away. I don't know as much about Ford models.

He probably meant embarrassing, because you spouted off with your "all Ford's are junk, buy an import" biased drivel, while obviously knowing absolutely nothing about what you were talking about. I'd be embarrassed about that....

Winner. :thumbsup:

ZV

 

[AMCRambler]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: Electric Amish
He has done 3 different compression tests. One showed a small anomaly, but all were otherwise fine. He says he is sure it is getting spark and fuel. He has not done a leak-down test because he says it would only tell him that the problem is in the head, not what the problem is.

Unfortunately I don't have a regular mechanic as everything I have ever needed either I or my father-in-law could handle, so I just took it down to a local shop.

If the cylinder has compression, fuel/air, and spark, it will fire. Period. If it's not firing, one of those three is missing.

The mechanic is clearly missing something because if the compression is good, and it has fuel and spark, then it would be firing. Since it's not firing, then one of those things that he's "sure of" isn't true. The idea of 3 different compression tests is odd... There's only one way I know of to do a compression test, so I'm unclear on why he needed to do three. I would strongly advise finding a different mechanic. This one is throwing red flags for me. Even what he's said is still not an answer to what he means by "some head work".

ZV

I think ZV is right, time for a second opinion. A compression test would tell him where the problem lies if there was low compression in the cylinder that's not firing, but a small anomaly? If it was in cylinder 3 then ok, bad compression on three means a stuck valve, bad rings or a head gasket leak. Those are pretty major though and wouldn't show as a slight anomaly. Even with a slight loss of compression I am thinking that sucker should still fire. That's assuming he is correct and there is spark and fuel.

 

[OdiN]

Originally posted by: railer

Originally posted by: OdiN


How is that embarrassing?

I didn't know the Probe was mostly Mazda. It says Ford on it, that's good enough for me to stay away. I don't know as much about Ford models.

He probably meant embarrassing, because you spouted off with your "all Ford's are junk, buy an import" biased drivel, while obviously knowing absolutely nothing about what you were talking about. I'd be embarrassed about that....

But anyway....I have the exact same car!!!!

Those v6's are a pita to work on, luckily your problem is in the front bank so you can actually reach it. Spending 2k to fix a 14 year old probe is lunacy. Heck, I'll sell ya my whole car for $1500. 😀

Go to probetalk.com, and see what they say. There are still tons of people there who own, modify, and maintain 1st and 2nd gen probes that will be able to help you out.

So...you're going to inacurately say that I was spouting "all Fords are junk, buy an import" - then you're going to insinuate that I didn't know anything at all about what I was talking about.

......Then you agree with me that it's not a good idea to spend that kind of money on that car?

I simply suggested an import because you can usually find quite a lot of them which are cheaper, and even though they have high mileage a lot of times, they will generally last and are a good decision. This has nothing to do with Ford vs. import or anything.

I suggested he look into another car as an option. You also seem to suggest this. But I'm stupid for it?

Nice job.

 

[Toastedlightly]

For OdiN

"THE INTERNET - SERIOUS BUSINESS!"

 

[Vette73]

Since it has not been asked, what is the car doing? Who said Cyl 3 was not firing in the first place? Is the engine light on and if so has it been hooked up to a computer yet?

Sorry but the person working on your car is not a auto tech, he is a wrench turner just guessing. First thing a good autotech would do is find the problem and then work back from it to find the cause. Seems he thinks he knows ther problem and is just throwing parts near the problem.

 

[Electric Amish]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975
Since it has not been asked, what is the car doing? Who said Cyl 3 was not firing in the first place? Is the engine light on and if so has it been hooked up to a computer yet?

Sorry but the person working on your car is not a auto tech, he is a wrench turner just guessing. First thing a good autotech would do is find the problem and then work back from it to find the cause. Seems he thinks he knows ther problem and is just throwing parts near the problem.

No, no check engine light.

The car started running as if it were missing. I diagnosed it by pulling plug wires during idle to see what happened. Pulling each wire in-turn caused the car to run more roughly until I hit #3. No idle change. After that I changed plugs, traded wires, changed disty cap and rotor. Nothing changed. So then I took it into the mechanic for their diagnosis.

I picked it up from the shop last night. They only charged me for the injectors since they couldn't fix it ($170 instead of $500+). Now to decide if I want to have another shop check it out, scrap it, or tinker with it with my father-in-law....

 

[Vette73]

Try these easy thing first since someone said cyl3 was up front and not one of those back 3.

1. SPARK. Pull the plug wire off and check to make sure you are getting spark to the cyl. I know you replaced the parts but do that to make sure there is not soemthing else. If it is getting to the spark plug then that shoudkl be good.

2. FUEL. Get a test light and make sure there is power at the furl injector harness. Without power doe snot matter if you have a new injector or not if it does not get the signal to open. NEXT take the spark plug out and smell. Do you smell gas in the cyl at all? If it is not firing then the fuel should build up a little.

3. COMPRESSION. Get a compression gauge tool. They don't cost that much and are easy to use. Sc rew it into the spark plug hole, disable the ignation system so the car can;t start, and turn the motor over per instructions. See what pressure you get. Then do the same for the other 2 cyl's on that head and compare. If this turns up low you can pull the front valve cover pretty easy on that motor and see if a lobe burned up on the cam or you have a sticky valve?


Once you do that write back.

 

[LS8]

Originally posted by: OdiN
You could buy a cheap ised import for ~$2000 and it will probably be better than that Probe.

LOL